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Thanks. I was actually thinking of a few metal halides for my next build. I am missing the punch it gave to acros.. What was the parasite you got?

@ black ick death was soo fast came from Flame angel fish. It was bad

Thanks @radx78

Hej. This is how is now. th-cam.com/video/_vfC90geubg/w-d-xo.html Tank has been doing great since Cyano left... But, I think I am at a dangerous mix once more for this system, algaes stopped growing on glass, I see some Cyano re-appearing in a very low flow area.. I just measured Nitrate and Phosphate... Nitrate at 4.0ppm and Phosphate at 0.00 PPM

Add uv/bring temp up to 82 slowly/ only dose phosphate and nitrate at night and add nopox shortly after./ you want to target 10 nitrate and .1 phosphate

@STEVE-gf5xg I am using UV, but I think that easiest way to beat Dino or Cyano is to trace the "green window"... (i.e. having green algae or diatomic on the glass) Like @zulu09 mention... I try to bounce Nitrate in the range of 5-10 ppm... and Phosphate 0.05 - 0.1 ppm.. Letting Phosphate go below 0.05 is ok, but at 0.02 ish, I start see coral starvation. Nitrate below 2ppm also bad stuff happen Green window means.. I try to have either green algae or diatomic growing on the glass all the time... somewhere between having to scrape the window once a week to once every second week...

Thanks, I pushed a lot of bacteria already for beating Dino... But I agree with you, I am prepared to dose Silicate, Nitrate, Phosphate, Carbon, bactera, phytoplanction... Green algae, Diatomics, bacteria... all is better than Cyano and Dino...

Thanks buddy! well, could be worse, so far fish are alive and coral thriving. it's just money draining quickly from my pocket

@peterreef I feel you on that one.

Hi. Here's a shot of the sump. th-cam.com/video/sgYvsRMO1XQ/w-d-xo.html&si=PaCNtZtC48wJpvSQ Spektrum is default Maxspect RSX when a shoot video. Dosing FM balling and vodka. Filtration skimmer, uvc, reactor. Just carbon at this stage. Algae reaktor

Thanks! Make sure to check out last status th-cam.com/video/ki4IZ0IQ9yo/w-d-xo.html

Thank you!

no, no chiller. only evaporation

Thanks!

@DontCare3000 My main clean up relies on copepods and amphipods, then I have a set of nassarius snails roaming the sand to move it about, and also one wrasse. I used to keep small hermit crabs and Trochus snails, but, hermits preyed on Trochus, So I moved hermits to the sump. Now the Trochus have been knocked out ( I assume it is Dino toxicity). I have a new set of Trochus snails in the QT, but they need to cook for 77 days to avoid introducing Ich. In the top of the chain I have the fox face and my 2 tangs to graze, and yeah, they are quite efficient.

@emailenroute_Macro_Algues Thanks! I have been quarantining chaetomorpha algaes for 77 days now to avoid risk of introducing ick to the system. So in fact now since last week I am running an algae reactor in the system. and in parallel I have 1 area of the sump with "dark" kept sand... here I try to culture non photosyntetic bacteria in the sand bed and seed the top tank... Also, a lot of pods etc growing here.

@martinpace1392 Have you seen them hit Dino's and Cyanos as well? In fact I have quite a big population of pods at glass... but I believe they go away when diatomic algaes implode..

@GwonkReefkeeping Thanks! I have been looking at that product, good to know you have good experience. I have never experienced Dinoflagellates before, and this is my 15th reef build in 20 years... So, something I made different this time that created excellent habitat for Dinos in this tank, and, yeah, before going for Dino-X as a last resort, I want to destroy these perfect conditions. - Starting with "dead" sand - Letting Nitrates drift off balance to Phosphates too far.. I think are 2 of many more root causes. I will keep this for now, but, thanks, I keep it in mind going further.

@mjumper No not at this stage. What do you think? Have I prolonged the suffering not dosing day-1? If you move to the end I reveal next step in mind, dosing live sand and Microbacter7. I've monitored Cyano a few days further to see the development and now I reset the sand with gravel cleaning and new layer substrate. Why I did it like this was that I wanted to avoid dosing beneficial stuff if the conditions would still favor Dino or Cyano... not sure it was the best

@daniel-saltyinvestments984 Thanks! I could only find filter socks for aquarium with 100 micron as smallest. Do I get the size of the protist correctly it is 30 micron, so I don't think filter sock will do the trick. I found a filter cartridge for tap water that does 20 micron, and this one I fitted to PVC and a return pump, by this I could filter the water before returning to aquarium... but.... I am not sure it is the smartest Daniel... I haven't figured the smartest just yet.. but.. - This protist is quite heavy, quite quickly it goes to the bottom of the reservoir that I sucked out to... so, if I let it sit for 24h with a tiny circulation pump to agitate the surface only, I gently just pour back 90% of the water in another bucket and dispose the bottom 10%.. I think this removes 98% of Dinos.. - it being quite heavy, by comparison, instead of gravel cleaning, if I just suck out the top layer of gravel after full light for a 6h or so... I am extracting a lot more Dino, like, 4x. This gravel I could rinse quite massively out of Dino.. but at this stage, not took it back in. Let me talk some more of my observations in next clip I am preparing

@DontCare3000 it is a good point, I just don't know what to start dosing again... I was dosing aquaforest.eu/en/product/af-life-source/ microbelift.com/product/special-blend/ microbelift.com/product/nite-out-ii-2/ for the first 3 months of the tank... Then this hit, th-cam.com/video/oUuX_UZl8ok/w-d-xo.html and I stopped. But yeah, Dino's I am contemplating dosing bacteria again, just haven't decided what yet, do you have any recommendations?

@@peterreef, I used MicroBacter7 - Complete Bioculture by Brightwell Aquatics, and AF NitraPhos Minus. These two saved me time and money.

Hej. Thanks! Please elaborate your ideas further. Please let me know what you think is wrong in the approach. I think you are on to something.. The basis of my analysis is that I've "successfully" managed to create conditions for this protist to thrive in my sand. If I study its behavior, it seems to be propagating to the sand surface during day time, indicating it is photosyntetic, during night time it is not there. As I carry a 55W UV filter on the tank, and it seems not to affect this protist, I think that the protist is not in the water column, but rather propagate down in the sand... I would suspect it is climbing down the sand bed to collect nutrients. Accepting this as a fact, the decisions I've made has been to favor other microorganisms, hoping that the battle field on the sand bed change to favor bacteria, green plankton and diatomic algaes. Definetly you are correct with the sand being a problem, I think the sand variant I selected favor this protist. It can navigate down easily to extract nutrients.

@@peterreef I don't have your knowledge, I only feel from my experience with small marine aquarium that sth is wrong with basic things that are put in the aquarium that's what I suppose but I may be wrong and mistake You. Good luck.

@mateuszx17 Thank you for engaging and please continue do so. Your comment sent me in the direction to reflect on 2 items, 1. how much does the specific gravel type favor this Dinoflagellate. 2. Am I over-complicating things. Is there an easier way to combat? Your comment about simplicity and basic is also relevant. Have you seen this low tech setup I run a year ago? th-cam.com/video/pP1nkLOknf0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xL3RceObrCo-bfyw Your focus on stuff put in tank makes me a bit curious, I am reefing in Northern Europe, most of the stuff we use in the hobby is food grade to be the minimum, pharmacy grade preferred... Most stuff coming from Germany, but Aqua forest (Polen) has been on the rise. Where are you calling from and what products do you have on the shelf?

@@peterreef I like simplicity. For me and for my skills and money I use simply equipment usually it's fromt China in shops in my country. But if I could afford I would buy from western countries. They are more durable, efficient and long last. I don't have space for skimmer in my reef tank , it's a pity, and I use small sponge with small ceramic media-filter and small china sobo(soebo) up sump filter which I bought from internet because it's not available in shops in my country. Here are only good cascada filters but theirs construction is that sponge is down and difficult to remove for new. Thanks for your interesting. Good luck.

@@mateuszx17 Thanks! Yeah tech-wise I've had good experience with some Chinese makes such as Jebao/Jecod and Kamoer. Furthermore somethimes when you buy European brands such as Aqua Medic or D&D they are quite clearly 1-1 with these makes, but just rebranded. This tank runs 2 Jebao return pumps, 1 for return and 1 for the manifold. I like that they are speed controlled in a fraction of 1%. Furthermore I am actually running a Jebao Stream pump in the "frag tank" My philosophy is to put the money in the live-stock, and, sometimes money is better spend in redundancy of tech components, than in one high-price-pump unit. Like here. If the vital circulation pump of the Jebao fails, I can stop the manifold circuit and take that pump to become circulation pump.. they are identical. Currently I keep redunancy for all vital tech components except the light... I want to invest in that as well, but haven't done so yet. Good luck, and happy reefing!

@GwonkReefkeeping They are a pain.... the only good they bring is teaching me how to fight them or how to quit... I haven't figured out why this tank skewed P-N ratio of nutrients... and also why the Dinos come messing at the ratio 30ppm NO3 and 0.03 ppm PO4... part of the answer I believe is P-N ratio, part is using "dead sand" being a lot of area for nasties to claim. well, I will post a mid-month video on the progress.. I keep you posted

@MW-ut3dk Thanks! Make sure to check out later updates. 5 months was nice, but 6 months is uphill!

Thanks.! yeah they are doing a good job in this tank

@varusso Thanks anyway, no offense! Have a look at the 5 month status what you think of the development. but also please share how you prefer the build instead of this...

@varusso My idea is to try and get the space to have large colonies, but these'll take me like 12 months or so to establish... and also I want to have the ease of pruning them... but also being able to dissassembly the tank aquascape in case of silicone issues.. I am not there yet, but, I would love to get your input direction in the steps ahead

@-Dreams-00 Yeap! the female is a shark!

Thanks buddy! We are getting there..

@Whaleydavey Thanks! The struggle I had was with the tangs, I will never go for a set of 2 again, either 1 or 3.

Looks like you managed to get the tangs living together ok.

@houseoffishchannel Thanks! let me check out your cannel

@@peterreef not a problem! I’m in the process of setting up a aqua one mini reef 120 at the moment

Good luck! fingers crossed!

@toliscy Thanks! I am doing my best, without feedback I will not be able to do any better! (failed with having another microphone for the voiceover, it added an echo instead... so, need to focus.)

@Dylamos yes! I think the female is as big as they get right now, compare it with the tangs in the tank.. I hope to keep here for a long time yet she is an old lady.. still spawning so there is hope

@@peterreef Great job man, truly beautiful tank and fish.

@SilentBiscuit17 Thanks! it ended up so that I built one identical tank and gave it to a friend of mine to start up reefing hobby.

@H8ter11 Yeap! had it there for 2-3 weeks until I was ready with the new home for it, I got it early as it was a good specimen... th-cam.com/video/TA9Z9yeeU9E/w-d-xo.html I've kept it well fed, almost double in length in 4 months.

the female are close to 3 inches, 7cm. I am not sure of the age as I collected her 2 years back, by then she was already a big clownfish.

@ItsEmeraldYT its a 15 gallon tank I've DIY'd the All-in-one concept with black acrylic. How big tank are you looking for with the upgrade?

@@peterreef I'm hoping to upgrade to maybe a 20-30 gallon

@@ItsEmeraldYT if you want, have a look at this video I posted way back.. th-cam.com/video/umLhicPjECo/w-d-xo.html I believe both offers cube-shape and peninsula style... and from my perspective the filter section is excellent with both. I happened to do a deep dive on the section in this video th-cam.com/video/KLaWTLiKQJQ/w-d-xo.html So in the size of 25 gallon, I would go with an all-in-one tank... Red Sea or Waterbox are excellent, there are probably more excellent variants. If you are offered other tanks and want me to have a look, just reach out.

@kevingurall5555 Old habits die hard maybe... it is good you asked, I have to reflect on this... I used to keep 2 inch lower water level in the tank and another 2 inch glass rail to reinforce the tank, but also keep the fish from jumping.. this was way before D-D made their DIY nets... now this tank has D-D net, so why keep the water level lower? The last point with the the water level is if the drainpipe and also safety pipe clogs... then the return section of the sump will be unable to flood the display... but yeah, that is no longer a strong argument.. thanks for putting me on the spot, I think I need to think more, this made all the sense 20 years ago..

These are Maxspect RSX, I have one 300W interlinked with one 100W.. I used to be very happy with the Maxspect Razor spectrum, good "coral color pop" at a reasonable budget... and that reasonable budget allowed me to always keep a second set of lights as backup in my storage, as sometimes the lenses or fan would burn out and I had to do maintenance...

@Coral-reef. I am not sure I made sense with my first reply, but, critical parts in the tank for the survival of my fish and corals, I try over time to get spare parts and spare components in stock at home, such that if a pump breaks at friday night 22.00, I can just pick the replacement up from the basement... Critical parts are, circulation pump, lighting, skimmer, stream pumps, heaters... This cuts my downtime to 1-2 hours as of 1-2 days... Right now, I have not decided what I should run as back up for light, I am contemplating an AI setup with hydras and blades, but, that would dig a whole in my pocket, so, not decided. I really love the Ecotech gen5 and gen6, but, can't really afford double sets of these...

Thank you!

yes! blue and pink!

Hi! How was your sensation? I had to google ASMR, so it wasn't intentional ASMR, I just overlayed something I found suitable a journey. I am doing my best, but it is not a lot. Thanks for your comment and teaching me new stuff

@@peterreefdon’t let him knock you it’s great for both! Subscribing

@Sammy31Dee I love your comment. I keep a D&D refractometer since 20 years back, it have never failed me, I have only failed it... I even made my first attempt back at the hobby starting with the importance of the refractometer... th-cam.com/video/kMnP4cpRNgU/w-d-xo.html But, I always double tap, double check, when I mix salt I always weigh the salt, and have the refractometer confirm salinity... even going further, I bought a new refractometer, D&D, one calibrated for seawater not brine, but, I stopped using it... I rather have my old trusty refractometer until it breaks..

Thanks, I have not had cauliflower before, I cross my fingers for that!

@@peterreef pretty common after a fish has been through treatment & is a bit run down , usually just goes with good water quality & feeding 🤞🏼👍🏻

@@dazsboxofwater fingers crossed!🤞

@power21100 thanks! that saying is a keeper!

@@peterreef feel free to spread the word to other reefers

@@power21100 😁

The compartment to right in the sump was actually planned be chaeto fuge, but then I want an acro-fuge instead, so I selected a algae reactor, but it is not started... miracle mud I will check out, I have fed the tank with Aquaforest mud for first month, maybe keep that up

Thanks! yeah, they are still eating all of them! thanks

It is getting there.. I need to step it up

@MW-ut3dk fish are planned back in april, then I need the UV to be ready, before that off... with 8ppm in Nitrate and 0.02 in Phosphate, no, I agree no need to do algae reactor.. In the long run the algae reactor appeal to me as an organic way of increasing the PH, by consuming CO2 in the water... also that it is organic absorbation of nutrients, hopefully removing some of the green algae on windows... I am thinking CO2 scrubber, but, want to help stabilize pH by other means before that.. Lid on the sump on its way, I hope to get RH below 45% by that... I am running de-humidifier during night, at daytime it is too loud... so, have you got a de-humidifier that is silent to recommend I would love ti

Sorry didn’t followup to your answer. Every dehumidifier I’ve ever used is noisy, no matter the price. I just ordered the best rated one on Amazon here in US. When I started my upgrade reef I qt’d everything, fish, corals, clean up crew, just to avoid the problem you’re experiencing. Think that was the best thing I ever did and recommend it highly.

@ricotter9233 Thanks! I actually did not consider turning it off... weird, hm, I like the skimmer to safe-guard the aeration of the water, but, you are correct...

.

I am actually running one, without de-humidifier the RH is 60-62%, with de-humidifier I can control it down to 45-50%, but, my unit has a scroll fan, so it is loud, that's why I want to solve the original problem.