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Yes. The MEP-814 is a 15 KW 400 Hz generator. It is NOT a 60 Hz generator.

You have a email I can send you a pic to see what parts is missing? Currently in the army but not a gen mechanic trying to fix one for a patriot overseas

I have them available on ebay. Search MEP-831A Governor Controller. Seller kloppk

There isn't any MQTT or Modbus for accessing the data. The system was designed to work in off grid settings.

The amount of cool down time along with many other parameters is adjustable by the user. The cool down time can be be anywhere from 1 minute to 255 minutes. When the system ships it's set to 5 minutes. That's the recommended cool down time.

@@kurtklopp4172 Yup, sounds right. I may consider it for my MEP803A when I recover a bit financially. How much do these boards cost?

For the 802 thru 806 they are $550 on ebay.

@@kurtklopp4172 pretty pricey, but if I manage to save up some money, I'll consider.

@@basspig There is only 1 other remote start system for the AAMPS gensets. It's over $3,000 and doesn't have any WiFi capability. It's just a basic 2-wire start stop board.

Unfortunately, I'm not an expert on the 002 genset so I don't have any suggestions at what to look at for that fault. Have you check the Technical Manual TM 5-6115-584-34 in the troubleshooting section for that fault? A great technical resource is the Steel Soldiers Generator forum. It's located at: www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/generators.55/ If you get an account and post your question there, I'm sure one of the 002 experts will lend a hand. Kurt

Ya my bad it’s 803a

@@jweddleman7077 No problem. For that happening on an 803 I'd suspect it's an issue with either the K8 Overload Relay box or the Fault Monitor assembly. When K8 "thinks" there is an overload condition it closes one of its internal relays. When that happens it sends 24 volts DC to the Fault Monitor to signal an Overload condition. I'd suggest hooking a hand held voltmeter to the K8 Overload Relay terminal 5 and connect the negative meter lead to chassis ground. Start the set and monitor the DC voltage on the meter. If you get an Overload fault and the contactor opens see if the voltage at K8-5 went from 0 volts to 24 volts. If it does it indicates the problem is with the K8 Overload Relay box. If the voltage stays at 0 volts DC then it would indicate the issue is with the Fault Monitor assembly. I have both of those items listed on ebay if you find you need one of them. Thank you for your earlier ebay purchase!

Tom, Yes, It can be use in 120/208 3 phase configuration. The current wire harness has 4 wires (unlike 2 shown in the picture) that go to K8 so it can detect the current in each of the three legs. Kurt

James, Yes I do. I produce WiFi 2-Wire Remote Start systems for the MEP-831A, MEP-802A, MEP-803A, MEP804A, MEP-804B, MEP-805A and MEP-806A too.

They are all available on the Steel Soldiers forum in the Parts For Sale section and on ebay. I also produce other replacement parts for the MEP gensets. On ebay simply click on sellers other items.

Bert, The MEP-1030 version is available on ebay now. The MEP-1040 version will be available on ebay in a couple of weeks. I'm updating its design to make installation easier.

DaveT, Thank you for the positive feedback. I wanted provide clear info on S14 since it's not well documented on what it does and how it works.

I don't know of any means of adding a speed control to the 003.

@@kurtklopp4172 Factory setup is all still there, just can't get it to hold rpm under load. It did work perfectly until the front was pulled off for some leaking gaskets. So, I know the parts are good.

@@TheSoloAsylum Do you have a copy of the Technical Manual TM 5-6115-584-34? It should have the troubleshooting info on the mechanical governor for your set. I'm not a wizard on the 002 but the people on the Steel Soldiers Generator forum are. www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/generators.55/

I offer the Remote Start kits on ebay for the 802A, 803A, 804A, 804B, 805A, 806A and MEP-1030. www.ebay.com/itm/185539237162

Click on "See Other Items" to view all the various MEP systems and parts that I have available!

I believe only the 1070 and maybe the 1060 natively support remote starting. The 1030 and 1040 don't.

@@kurtklopp4172 Thanks for the reply, Kurt. I will dig into this and see what I can find out. I do know they have a remote control port on the panel that will allow remote operation. My guess: it's running some serial protocol from a control head (remote) to the MCU in the generator.

@@emailuser3869 I dug thru the TM's for the 1030 thru 1070 and there is no mention of the sets having the ability of being remotely started thru the front panel interface. The front panel interface RS-485 port can only be used to monitor the generator and perform an emergency stop. No ability to start the set. From the TM I see that the USB port is there only for accessing the Fault, Maintenance and Operation log files stored in the flash memory of the DCS. Basically it allows you to perform a file drag and drop for the DCS to a laptop. The remote monitoring is accomplished using the military's remote monitoring software is accomplished over the RS-485 port on the DCS.

@@kurtklopp4172 Thanks Kurt. I think you've saved me a lot of time and head-scratching.

My system doesn't "duplicate" any sensors. The harness simply taps into the output signal from the various sensors. For instance, for the Fuel Level Sensor my harness taps into the signal on the B terminal of the Fuel Level Sensor connector. It's a 0.5-4.5 VDC output. My harness feeds all 3 of the wires to and from the Fuel Level Sensor to the sets wire harness and the actual level signal is wired to my controller thru my wire harness. That way my controller can measure the DC voltage from the Fuel Level sensor. I designed the harness so its plug & play instead of cutting and splicing all the various sensor wires. It makes installation vastly easier and fool proof. The various sensors in the set are not CAN bus between the sensors and the DCS. All are analog signals except the battery current. That's PWM signal. The controller is dedicated to a single 1030 or 1040. However, 1030's and 1040's using my controller can still be paralleled using the sets paralleling cable.

@@kurtklopp4172 If i'm not nistaken at around 6:51 you have a picture one of your 3x current transformers on the L1 phase (labeled CT1), imediately over the bank of three built-in current transformers - and looking at your PCB you have an isolation transformer for voltage and frequency sensing. While correct, in that you state that the sensors themselves are not CAN-bus, This information is digitized and subsequently provided on the DCS face via the internal Can-bus (as well as be able to send instructions back the MCB from the user interface to make adjustments in stand-alone mode), or the remote monitoring field PC via the external CAN-bus (under the remote circular connector ont eh face of the DCS). See TM 9-6115-750-10, Chapter 1, Section 0003, Page-2, Figure 1. This context is the source of my "duplicate sensor" comment. IMO, this could have been a male and female in-line circular military connector with a CAN-bus branch-isolator between the MCB and DCS to only sniff the digitized data in lock-step with the data eventually to be displayed on the generator control face.

@@Real_Tim_S You are correct about my CT's being duplicate sensors. Forgot about those. Your CAN bus sniffing would be another way to do it.

Tim, Update... I've spent a ton of time on it and have figured out how to get all of the operating parameters by way of the Remote port on the 1030. I plan on offering new Remote Start systems for the 1030 and 1040 in the coming months that does away with 95% of my wire harness and taps into the Remote port to monitor the sets parameters instead. Stay tuned!

@@kurtklopp4172 That's awesome!

Jeff, The Remote Start kit has a "2-wire" interface that can be connected to a toggle switch, solar charge controller or "Smart ATS". It just needs one of those items to make a contact closure between the 2 wires on my interface to tell the generator to start. Smart ATS's have controllers in them that have a relay that it can close and open to tell a generator to start & stop. Less expensive "Dumb" ATS's don't have that feature. The system does not have a 12 volt DC output on it. However... I do produce an ATS support board that works in conjunction with my Remote Start system to interface to an ATS smart or dumb. It does have a 12 volt DC power supply on it. It also monitors the utility voltage and detects when there is a power outtage to start and stop the generator. The ATS support board also has several relays to control a dumb ATS such as a Generac RSXW100A3, RXSC100A3, RXSW150A3, RSXW200A3, RXSC200A3 transfer switches. The relays handle transfer switch operation as well and powering the SACM in the Generac ATS's. Kurt

@@kurtklopp4172 Thanks for the quick reply. I should have just messaged thru Ebay. I am a general contractor & typically do all my own electric so have decent electrical knowledge.I put in 2 complete Kohler gensets about 7-8 years ago but did not pay much attention to the exact start sequence. The Kohler 200 amp ATS I installed if I remember right did have two low low voltage wires as a trigger since I used 14/2 instead of a hour round trip to HD . I just picked up 3 Mep 802 & 803 generators for me and my family so plan on getting them set up fully automatic. Do most of the ATS like the Kohler & generac provide the 2 wire signal required. Do you have a ATS you prefer. Thanks Jeff

@@jhbrown53 Jeff, Make sure the MEP generators you picked up have the "Fuse Mod" installed in them. It's a fuse and fuse holder just to the left to the A1 Voltage regulator behind the gauge panel. If they don't I have kits available on ebay. Different manufacturers of AT's offer various Smart & Dumb ATS's. There is a wide variety of makes and models out there. Normally it would the more expensive ATS's that have a smart controller in them that monitor utility power and that have a means of signaling a generator to start. The less expensive ATS's like the Generac model I mentioned earlier and others are just a Transfer switch and do not monitor utility power and have no mechanism to signal a generator to start. They rely on something external to do that work. The ATS card I mentioned is essentially the smarts needed to monitor utility power, start and stop the generator and cause the ATS to switch between power sources. I'm very familiar with the Generac model I mentioned. I have one here that was used to develop the ATS control board.

@@kurtklopp4172 Hey Kurt, Sorry for flip flopping between here & the bay. Thanks again for all the info & taking a ton of time to design this controller. I would like to get in touch via email to cut out the middle man if that would be ok with you. I will most likely be doing several of these & will be easier dealing with you directly. I have tried to put my email in the comments twice, once pretty sneaky but were deleted. Just let me know if you would be interested or would prefer to just go thru the bay.

Steve P, Somehow your comment was deleted. Weird.

The K15 relay is "on" whenever the generator is running. K15 is the starter cut out relay. It probably does get warm since it's always powered. Be sure K15 is a 120 VAC relay and not a 24 VDC relay. When the set is running power will be provided to the outlet automatically. To get power at the lugs L0, L1 & L2 the generators contact needs to be closed. To close the contactor you need to lift the contactor close switch for a few seconds after the set is started and then release the switch. The green contactor lamp should illuminate indicating the contactor is closed at power is at the lugs.

@@kurtklopp4172 noted i ended up getting power to the lugs but now its too high currently at 160volts when i set a8 to 120 any advice?

Additionally when I put a heater on the outlet and tried turning it on it instantly turns off and volts drop

K15 is also a 120 vac

The outlet is limited to 10 amps. There is a tiny circuit breaker rocker switch on the back of the GFCI that will trip cutting power to the outlet if overloaded. Did you verify 160 volts with a separate meter? The voltage output of the generator can be adjusted with the front panel voltage adjust.

Yes, once the engine speed is greater than 900 RPM S14 will cause relay K16 to open disabling the starter motor.

It's fixed over 240 831's so far.

Yes it does. Will work with most any WiFi enabled device with a browser. Remote Start kits available on ebay for the 802, 803, 804, 805A & 806A.

@@kurtklopp4172 thanks for such a speedy reply. I am certainly now going to go ahead with purchasing an 803A and remote start kit - do you have any recommendations about Automatic Transfer Switch?

@@MegaBadwolf I believe the Asco Transfer switch's support 2-wire generator Start/Stop. The Transfer switch needs to have a set of contacts that close to tell the generator to start and open when the generator should shut down.

There is no "app" needed on the phone, laptop or tablet. Only a browser is needed.

On request they can be configured to run in WiFi "Station" mode. In Station mode they connect to you homes WiFi router and can be accessed by any device on your home network.

The 2-Wire Remote Start feature can be used with anything that has a basic contact closure to signal the generator start and stop. It can be something like an ATS or something as simple as an ON/OFF toggle switch. If using a toggle switch when the switch is ON the controller will start up the generator. When the toggle switch is switched to OFF the controller will shut down the generator. If you are using a manual interlock on your panel you could mount a toggle switch near it. Flip the toggle switch, wait for the generator start and then manually flip the interlock to use the generator power. Versions of this system now also support the MEP-804A, MEP-804B, MEP-805A & MEP-806A.

What was meant is that the generator can still be started and stopped using the front panel controls just as if the Remote Start kit isn't installed. To explain the Remote Start kit operates in "parallel" with the front panel controls. If the set was started via the from panel switch control can then be passed to the Remote Start system. Once control is passed to the Remote Start system the front panel switch can be set to STOP and the set will continue to run under control of the Remote Start. The opposite is true too. If the set is started via the Remote Start control can be passed to the front panel START/STOP switch. Once done the front panel switch can be used to shut the generator down. There is a feature in the web browser control to perform the passing of control back and forth between the Remote Start system and the front panel controls.

You can go to www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/parts-for-sale.126/?starter_id=35224 For ordering info.

Joseph, The one in the video is an MEP-802A. I also have MEP-831A's and make a kit for the 831A too.

Nothing available yet for the 805B

@@kurtklopp4172 Are you currently working on a kit for the 805B and if so, how soon can they be available for purchase?

@@tylergcharron1 Nothing for the 805's. Not a product I plan on developing at this point.

They are available on ebay.

If you have any questions about the kit just let me know.

No. This unit is designed to interface specifically with 802 thru 804 gen sets electrical systems. Unfortunately few use the 701 or it's cousin so I haven't developed a unit tailored to it.

At the moment yes. I may create a version for the -002A & -003A in the future.

Dan, There is not Cat5 connectivity to the Controller. However I could easily change the Controllers firmware to have it connect up to your WiFi router near your generator. I'd just need to change the firmware and add your remote routers SSID & Password prior to shipping one to you.

Thanks Kurt. I just realized this is only for 802a/803a. Do you by any chance make one for mep-002a or plan to? I've seen another board, but it doesn't have all the fancy wifi stuff that yours does.

@@danlibby6810 Dan, At the moment I do not have plans to develop one for the -002/-003's at this time. Working on other new products for the MEP's at the present time. Other products already available are a MEP-831A Remote Start, MEP-831A Battery Chargers, MEP-831A Replacement Governor Controllers. Products in development is a MEP-804A/B Remote Start & a Governor Controller to support MEP-831A PMA & Inverter replacements.

@@kurtklopp4172 This is excellent. I would like to get one programmed to log onto my existing Wi-Fi so that I can then use my phone or tablet anywhere in my house to connect to the generator app. Where is the best place to get this from you, with ordering it with my Wi-Fi credentials sent to you? Thank you!

@@Johnny0005 The controller is now available in WiFi Station Mode or Access Point mode. To order goto the Steel Soldiers forum Classifieds Section Parts for Sale topic. Search Remote Start.

Lou - Units are out for Beta testing with a few Steel Soldier members. Getting close to being ready for release. There is also a version for the 831A that includes the Governor Controller function too.

John - It's actually a from scratch design I created. It's based on the ESP8266 WIFI module as the controller and web server plus a slew of other components.

It will be a real product shortly and available for purchase.