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neither. poly iso

We highly recommend our EnergyShield CGF product when using EIFS stucco applications. However, for 1- or 3 - coat stucco, our EnergyShield product is the ideal choice in residential projects!

They’re called TruFast fasteners and can be found here: www.trufastwalls.com/

Most common commercial-grade construction adhesives are compatible with EnergyShield Products, such as OSI PL Premium that also bonds well to concrete. Consult with adhesive manufacturers for other suggestions that will adequately bond to concrete as well as any installation requirements.

Polyiso has used low VOC and zero greenhouse gas formulations for over 40 years and has long been the premier choice for both roof and wall insulation because of its performance in rugged, cold-temperature climates. Made for the Canadian markets in both Toronto and Vancouver, Atlas polyiso offers products for many applications, including below grade. For more details on polyiso environmental benefits, and to better understand how R-value is determined, pease visit our website, atlasrwi.com.

NO! It loses it insulation value considerably at +++10C ... imagine this in Canadian winters!! Not! I have been researching about this for months now so I had to let you know. I am frustrated that users of this on youtube do not All tell us this important information. I was going to use Zip R12 here in Atlantic Canada but now I will use 2 layers of 1.5 DOW Rigid foam, DOW brand because it was made with a more environmentally friendly blowing agent so it does not lose its hydro ability, so it can go under grade as well. So important to do the research and check many sources. Cheers from East Canada, ☺🇨🇦🍁

@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs Polyiso has used low VOC and zero greenhouse gas formulations for over 40 years and has long been the premier choice for both roof and wall insulation because of its performance in rugged, cold-temperature climates. Made for the Canadian markets in both Toronto and Vancouver, Atlas polyiso offers products for many applications, including below grade. For more details on polyiso environmental benefits, and to better understand how R-value is determined, pease visit our website, atlasrwi.com.

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No, in fact, homeowners routinely add vapor retarders to walls when they hang mirrors, add porcelain tile, install wallpaper, etc. In high humidity environments or most of the US during the summer, an exterior insulation layer that is also a vapor retarder will prevent those homeowner "modifications" from creating a condensation plane at the interior wall interface. Typically, the water vapor drive is from the outside to the inside, but an exterior vapor retarder will keep that vapor outside. In the winter, that same exterior insulation keeps the inner layers of the wall warm enough that any water vapor in the wall cannot condense and create problems. Studies have been conducted on homes constructed with interior polymer vapor retarders and exterior vapor retarder foam sheathing, revealing wall cavity moisture content remains low and incredibly stable, regardless of summer or winter. Creating walls that do not undergo seasonal moisture content change is a good thing! Here are some helpful tools available online that can guide your product selection and installation choices at continuousinsulation.org, including a wood wall assembly calculator. www.continuousinsulation.org/sites/default/files/uploads/attachments/node/214/ci-quickguidewatervaporcontrol.pdf www.appliedbuildingtech.com/fsc/woodcalculator

@@atlaspolyisoroofwallinsula3771 Fantastic,...tHanks for the links!!!

The demand is super ridiculous, the plant I work at (a fiberglass plant) is back ordered 3 years. Keep in mind that’s assuming we’re producing the maximum amount of pounds we can produce which is around 350klbs a day

Lowe's and Home Depot both carry similar products by different manufacturers

I would contact local roofing and building supply houses. Lowe's and HD carry inferior, more expensive polyiso products.

Absolutely! EnergyShield comes in a wide range of thicknesses, making it easy to reach the appropriate R-value for your climate zone.

You can find your rep here and they can direct you to a distributor in your area. Thanks! wall.atlasrwi.com/sales-directory/

Polyiso loses it R value significantly at +++10C or less. So NOT good to use as outside insulation around the exterior of the home in zones 5,6,7 etc where Winters might regularly go below +++10C...So DOW rigid foam is made with a special blowing agent that allows it to be used below grade in moist soil. Other rigid foam, so I learned through researching, do not have the same blowing agent and deteriorate in R value compared to DOW rigid foam. So much to learn, so little time. STay safe cheers Atlantic Canada, Prince Edward Island 🇨🇦🍁💯👍

@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs Correct. Polyiso looses R value all the time for it's whole life. So in my view, why install it !!! EPS / DOW Extruded holds it's R value !!!

Hey Paul! That's a great question. EnergyShield is classified as a Class I vapor retarder (vapor barrier), because of its foil facers. This means that drying occurs to the interior of the wall assembly. Vapor permeability is only a concern if condensation can form. As long as you provide enough exterior continuous R-value keeping the wall cavity warm and decreasing thermal bridging you shouldn't have an issue. Of course, every part of the wall assembly plays a critical part, so optimizing the insulation, vapor, and WRB strategies for your climate zone is critical for the long-term performance of the wall. EnergyShield has been a successful part of this type of vapor control strategy in every climate zone in North America for over 40 years. Here are some resources that might be helpful: www.appliedbuildingtech.com/system/files/abtgrr_1410-03_moisture_vapor_control.pdf , www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-001-the-perfect-wall

Hi! What total thickness of insulation would you like to end up with? That will determine your best method for install.

@@atlaspolyisoroofwallinsula3771 Currently I am investigating 3.5 to 4" of polyiso. Roughly 1.5" between 2x4 then 2" continuous insulation layer. The only other option I've come up with is to do 4" continuous insulation (one sheet) then attach a furring strip to hold it on using a 6" tapcon. But 6" tapcons are >$1 each and I'm worried about holding power at that distance.

@@CrosshairLunchbox I think the NTA report will be helpful here (www.atlasrwi.com/resource-folder/wall/Codes%20&%20Testing/Atlas_Wall_CI_NTA_Evaluation_Report_ATL041713-23.pdf). It gives information on attaching thick insulation boards to CMU. I also think that Rodenhouse (www.rodenhouse-inc.com/) offers some alternative fasteners that may be even easier to use.

Actually,...Wind, Rain Barrier. : ) I've also seen it as "Water, Rain, which doesn't make sense.

@@timrick2 Perfect, thanks for helping!

Where drainage is desired a variety of products and/or installation methods are available that can be included in the wall design that are compatible with our rigid foam insulation. If you have questions on a specific application, we would be happy to contact you.

Metal building insulation should you leave a small air gap between the exterior metal and the foil face ? Trying to keep the heat out during the hot summers here in south Alabama

@@ajmann07 You could go either way. If your install method creates an air gap, that's not a problem, and if there is no air movement in that gap you will get an extra R-1 or so for your wall assembly. However, EnergyShield has a higher R-Value than air, so if you use the maximum thickness of EnergyShield that your design allows for, the overall R-Value of the wall will be higher, and it's thermal performance better.

The Air gap is a achieve with 1 x 3 battens which provides a rain screen and your siding is attached to the battens so there’s a three-quarter of an inch gap between the back of the siding and the polyiso product! They also make a tape that’s 3 to 5 inches wide that you apply over the seams they don’t show that in this video and the reason why this is a epic failure of a video. You can buy a venting product attaches to the bottom of the battens that’s the same three-quarter inch thickness as the battens! it’s a corrugated plastic product called CoraVent with a big screen to provide venting on the bottom so the air can pass from the bottom up through the back and dry out your battens and dry out the back of the siding! For the top where your roof rafters are you could make vent holes and use a nail screen this allows the air to pass through and come out through whatever material you’re nailing on to the bottom of the soffits.