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I used the colours that were in the Revell building manual

@eddy4765 im so used to airfix (humbrol colours) and it seems revell do alot of having to mix 2 different colours

@@darrenmaybee9639 Indeed. I also don't think mixing colors is ideal. You have to make a bit more of it, in case you have to retouch something later.

ill tell you my story, my parents have been on QM2 twice now and theyve booked a 3rd trip.. they love it. and seeing as they are nightmare to but for at xmas, me and the wife agreed we would build the model and give it to them on xmas days. no pressure at all🤣🤣 how did you create the lights?

A 24 volt led strip of about 40 cm, a variable resistor 5Kohm and 4 resistors of 220ohm connected in series. I set that up experimentally and tried by taking a resistor more or less each time until I had the appropriate light intensity.

The large pieces have been airbrushed. The smaller pieces are painted with the brush and the detail work is done with markers. See also my other video. th-cam.com/video/wkK01Fd4GuE/w-d-xo.html

Thanks. This is 1/400 scale.

The construction plan stated that you could choose the flags. I didn't think about it and just used the flags that were in the box.

@@eddy4765Oh well, thanks for posting a very interesting video. The finished model looks like museum quality to my eye

Thank you. I use the original smart battery 850.

Mine is the smart version bnf. I don't have to do a trim flight but can adjust the drift via the forward programming menu in the transmitter. See in my comments below. You will surely find an answer. Good luck. Regards.

​@@eddy4765 Hey Eddy! Thanks a lot. I found the answer in this thread. It is a very long and hard way to setup this heli. The problems during calibrating, new version (3.06) of the nx8 transmitter I encountered, too. There is no documentation about using forward programming to setup the attitude of the heli. One has to try. Even german horizonhobby- support did not mention that. I tried to alter the trim-seting by underlying something under the heli during calibration process (support recommended this). Now I found a good hovering trim setting using attitude programming. Allthough it would be interesting to know what "pitch" ans "roll" means in that menu. Thanks again. Holger

@@freedomandbike Pitch is forward and back, roll is left and right. Then you can enter positive or negative values according to whether you need to go forwards or backwards, or left or right. 100 means a 1 degree displacement of the swash. For my heli, for example, the Pitch is 500 and Roll is -180 , which means that 5 degrees of Pitch is adjusted and -1.8 degrees of Roll to hover in balance. What I would do is: First of all set your swash level at half stick . Then I would still perform a new calibration. And then adjust with the pitch and the roll. Yes, the manual doesn't say anything about that. I also found all the information on the net. Lots of reading and searching. Good luck and let me know what the outcome is. Greetings Eddy

@@eddy4765 Hello Eddy, I achieved a satisfying result by first calibrating with underlying stuff under the heli during calibrating. After calibrating on a parallel surface it is hardly possible to find a good adjustment for "pitch" and "roll". Therefore I would like to ask you what you mean with "First of all set your swash level at half stick". How can this beeing done? Greetings Holger

Hello, Happy New Year . There is an extension cord connected in the bind port. The other end is attached to the side of the helicopter. You have to put the binding plug in that.

@@eddy4765 tkanks you i see the bind port at left of the side !!

I'm using HH's settings. The 230smart version uses forward programming to control flight characteristics. I don't know if the 230sS V2 also uses forward programming. If I'm right you should do a trim flight to get rid of the drifting. With forward programming you can adjust the swash plate by 1/100th degree.

I can handle a light breeze. I prefer no wind .

@@eddy4765 When I saw how high you went, my heartrate started to increase.....I have the same 230s but only hovering indoors with the nano s3 and K110....after watching your video...it's giving me the itch to do some hover hops with the 230s...

I've already practiced a lot with the 120S to get the hang of it. Once I have mastered certain actions well with the 120S, I will repeat them on the 230. Good luck with your practice and learning

Ah, so that's why helicopters look crooked when they're hovering but not moving. Thanks for the info!

Thank you for this. My heli is trimmed all the way forward and still drifts back.

NX6 and i'm still learning to fly

@@eddy4765 I have a NX6 as well ! Spend almost 40 hours on a flight sim to learn forward flight, figure 8 etc. Keep up the good work :-)

Keep hitting the sim. It will save you money. (long after you mastered basic forward flight and return to hover) I will be doing maiden flight on my new TREX 800E tomorrow (when the weather is decent). I still use the sim all the time. If I cannot reliably do a maneuver in the sim, I don't do it outside. And it's good warm-up before I go fly, too. Something I learned long ago flying planes. Bigger is easier. Period. Easier to see. More stable. Everything happens slower. 1000% true in helicopters. Learning on a micro is way harder. They are just a handful. A 230s is still pretty hard, but definitely than something even better. I am a big proponent of reserving micros and minis for play in the yard rather than training. I know they're cheap, but really, they are quite a lot harder. And using the stabilized (6G) modes just teaches bad habits you'll need to unlearn later. The simulator is the key. Just keep crashing it until you don't (rather than dumbing it down).

Hey, Do not use the trims on the transmitter . The flight controller will also counter that I think. I see that most of the drifting problems occur with the RTF version. I have the BNF and use the NX6 transmitter and through the menu forward programming and then attitude trim you can eliminate the slight drift. You don't have to do a trim flight, just adjust step by step in the transmitter. I also have a blade 120S and it also drifts away. With this one you cannot use forward programming and you also have to make a trim flight. But that doesn't work either. With this helicopter I adjust the rods until the drift is doable. But with the 230 I wouldn't adjust the rods. The swash plate must be level.

@@eddy4765 which direction with the attitude trim do I go to stop a slight back and decent left drift?

I don't know right away. You must try . If it gets better , then you are adjusting in the right direction. If it gets worse then adjust in the opposite . You can also go negative. My settings are : Roll 500 and Pich -180. If you adjust 100 that means 1 degree of the swash plate. You may not focus on my set values. Yours may be different from mine.

@@eddy4765 I think it actually kept my trims, not certain because I was outdoors in a bit of wind, but didn’t seem to drifting much when in a hover. Will test in basement later to be sure.

@@eddy4765 mine doesn’t want to seem to correct with attitude trim either. On the pitch it did, but roll I have gone a lot in both directions, seems to make a difference, get it close, then next time I go up it’s back out of wack again

First check the swashplate if that is level. Turn on the holt button and set the selector to stunt 1 or 2. Bring the throttle to 50%. Then the swash comes level and the servo arms should be horizontal, at a 90 degree angle. If that's OK, I'd try to run the calibration procedure and then the trim flight. It is on page 16 in the manual for the RTF version. Hopefully it will be okay.

@@eddy4765 well I can tell you what I did. I centered the servos in servo adjustment mode. Then I leveled the swash plate. It got better but was still pulling to the left. Harassing hubby told me to do the calibration but I could not get it into calibration mode at all. So they told me to send it back also. The first one was already sent back to them. So now both of the 230 S Smarts I bought are back at Horizon getting assessed to see what is wrong with them. I bought a 70s just to be able to fly something while they were being looked at and it’s doing great.

@@KnightsGarage The 230 will be fine too. Calibrate and trim. But of course it should work. Let me know how it turns out.

@@eddy4765 I tried everything to get it to calibrate a better burn up two charges on the battery just trying to get it into calibration mode. They even sent me different instructions because they figured I was dumb or something but I still couldn’t get it into the calibration mode. Then servo adjustment mode started acting funny like it would not advance to the next servo like it was supposed to. They told me just to send it back after I told him that was happening also. Even when I would hit the panic recovery mode it would almost act like I gave it hard left cyclic.

IF outside, you might have caught some wind. He is inside with no wind, yes mine is all over the place too. Bring it inside and it will be a little bit more stable. Check your local Aloft weather in the app to make sure not too much wind.

@@MasterBlud i fly outsite if there is no wind. Even a litle bit of wind it is difficult to hold it .

Mine is all over the place inside my garage or outside. Drifts very hard to the left.