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VDiff Climbing
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 8 ธ.ค. 2014
I started this channel to share what I've learned after climbing 50+ big walls and spending more than a year of my life living on a portaledge.
I hope you find some of this stuff useful. Please let me know if there are any other videos you'd like me to make.
Thanks,
Neil Chelton
(The VDiff guy)
I hope you find some of this stuff useful. Please let me know if there are any other videos you'd like me to make.
Thanks,
Neil Chelton
(The VDiff guy)
How To Prusik Up a Rope - Trad Climbing Self-Rescue Skills
How to ascend a rope using prusiks. An essential skill for rock climbing self-rescue.
This video is part of a full online course: Self-Rescue and Problem Solving. Check it out:
vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/self-rescue
Or download the e-book:
vdiffclimbing.gumroad.com/l/VDiff-Problem
This video is part of a full online course: Self-Rescue and Problem Solving. Check it out:
vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/self-rescue
Or download the e-book:
vdiffclimbing.gumroad.com/l/VDiff-Problem
มุมมอง: 8 856
วีดีโอ
Rappelling Past A Knot - Trad Climbing Self-Rescue
มุมมอง 10K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to rappel past a knot when rock climbing. This video is part of a full online course: Self-Rescue and Problem Solving. Check it out: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/self-rescue Or download the e-book: vdiffclimbing.gumroad.com/l/VDiff-Problem
Tandem Rappel - Trad Climbing Self-Rescue
มุมมอง 11Kปีที่แล้ว
How to do a tandem rappel when trad climbing. This video is part of a full online course: Self-Rescue and Problem Solving. Check it out: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/self-rescue Or download the e-book: vdiffclimbing.gumroad.com/l/VDiff-Problem
Trad Climbing: Self-Rescue and Problem Solving. Full Online Course.
มุมมอง 4.1Kปีที่แล้ว
Take the course here: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/self-rescue Learn how to: - Escape the belay in a variety of ways. - Rescue an injured leader. - Set up counterbalance and tandem rappels. - Haul your partner. - Rappel with damaged ropes. - Simul climb without it being totally epic. Plus much more.
Baffin Island Big Wall Climbing
มุมมอง 5Kปีที่แล้ว
More info about the route: www.mountainproject.com/route/122988916/rainy-day-dream-away Want to climb a big wall? Take the full online course here: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall Music: Right Place, Right Time - Silent Partner
Big Wall and Aid Climbing Online Course
มุมมอง 6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Learn how to aid climb! Full online course available here: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall Learn everything (yes, everything) about big wall and aid climbing.
How To Place Beaks - Aid Climbing Skills
มุมมอง 21K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall 0:00 Introduction 0:24 The Basics 2:00 The Placement 3:49 Weird Placements 5:59 Removing 6:41 As Protection Get the book ‘Big Wall and Aid Climbing’ E-book available by donation: www.vdiffclimbing.com/ebook-bigwall/ Paperback available worldwide on Amazon: tinyur...
Big Wall Aid Climbing - How To Set Up the Belay
มุมมอง 9K3 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall 0:00 Introduction 0:18 Creating the Central Point 1:09 Tying Yourself In 1:37 Fixing the Lead Rope 3:03 Setting Up the Haul 4:10 Summary Learn more about big wall climbing: www.vdiffclimbing.com/bigwall/ Get the book ‘Big Wall and Aid Climbing’ E-book available b...
Big Wall Aid Climbing - How To Follow an Aid Climb
มุมมอง 15K3 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall This video explains how to follow an aid pitch when big wall climbing, including ascending a rope with jumars, removing gear from overhanging pitches and traverses, and how to lower out from a pendulum. 0:00 Introduction 0:26 The Basics 0:51 The Setup 3:32 Leavin...
Big Wall Aid Climbing - How To Lead - Part Two
มุมมอง 15K3 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall This video explains skills for leading a big wall/aid climb, including how to do a pendulum, pass gear between climbers, lower down in the middle of a pitch and safely ascend to your high point if you fall. 0:00 Introduction 0:35 Pendulums 2:01 Ascending after fa...
Big Wall Aid Climbing - How To Lead - Part One
มุมมอง 31K3 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall 0:00 Introduction 0:15 The Basics 0:45 The Setup 3:15 Getting High 3:58 Leaving the Belay 4:47 Bounce Testing 7:37 Traverses and Overhangs Learn more about big wall climbing: www.vdiffclimbing.com/bigwall/ Get the book ‘Big Wall and Aid Climbing’ E-book available...
How To Place Copperheads - Aid Climbing Skills
มุมมอง 38K3 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall 0:00 Introduction 0:18 The Basics 0:48 Types and Sizes 1:34 The Placement 4:20 Circle Heads 4:31 Removing Copperheads 5:14 Falling on Copperheads 5:34 Summary Learn more about big wall climbing: www.vdiffclimbing.com/bigwall/ Get the book ‘Big Wall and Aid Climbi...
How To Use Cam Hooks - Clean Aid Climbing
มุมมอง 18K3 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall 0:00 Introduction 0:21 The Basics 1:00 The Placement 2:17 Inverted Placements 2:56 Expanding Flakes 3:53 Falling on Cam Hooks 4:38 Summary Learn more about big wall climbing: www.vdiffclimbing.com/bigwall/ Get the book ‘Big Wall and Aid Climbing’ E-book available...
How To Use Skyhooks - Aid Climbing Skills
มุมมอง 32K3 ปีที่แล้ว
This video is part of a full online course (100 videos) about big wall and aid climbing: vdiffclimbing.thinkific.com/courses/big-wall 0:00 Introduction 0:21 The Basics 1:01 The Placement 2:30 Fragile Flakes 3:01 Pointed Hooks 3:23 Falling on Hooks 4:02 Summary Learn more about big wall climbing: www.vdiffclimbing.com/bigwall/ Get the book ‘Big Wall and Aid Climbing’ E-book available by donation...
It took me about FIVE MONTHS to stumble across this channel and the FULL SET OF information I was looking for. Looking forward to enroll in the online course ! 🙏🙏
Yeah, no thank you
Really well done video! Do you have any youtube shorts?
Not yet!
Very pedagogically presented. Thank you.
Love the animations very informative.
“But… aid climbing’s cheating anyway”😂
How can i donate money u are a g
Your horizontal beak placement reminded me of the camming action of the old Chouinard crack-n-ups. Still have a set banging around somewhere.
great video . thanks😊
Nice video. One teeny point, when cleaning, the more you tap upwards rather than also downwards, the better the placement is for someone who just wants to use a hand placed beak. Better overall, but especially for that reason.
Awesome visuals, really simplifies things, never seen this done before! Keep it up buddy 👍🏻
Those visuals are top notch! great work!
Thanks!
Nice 😀.
What is the advantage of the top prussic being extended as opposed to having it directly to the belay loop and the foot prussic on top? Edit: I just thought it will be hard to push up the prussic on the belay loop since the rope below is unweighted
i prefer to have it the other way around, with the foot loop above, and normally i just use my ATC in guide mode directly to my belay loop.
Petz Reverso on tie in points.
Useful information, but perhaps would be better if you made a video for the 99% of situations where climbers are rappelling on two strands.
Rappelling past a knot on 2 strands is explained in the full online course.
Why is that different than the atc case? A prussic above should grab two stands just fine
Passing a knot is much more common when rappelling fixed lines, so the more frequent scenario will be a single rope rappel as shown
You seem to use a " machard" knot, not a "prusik" ?
There are many different terms for 'prusiks'. To clear things up: The French prusik (also known as the 'Auto-block') is the only prusik (also known as 'friction hitch') this video. The Machard knot (also known as the 'Klemheist') is not used in this video. You could use the Machard knot if you want, but it's near impossible to release when you're weighting it. The French prusik is significantly easier to release in this situation.
Thanks! I was wondering exactly that the other day, I was kind arrived to the same solutions but I would probably have messed something up haha, and the fact that you can just pass the knot through the munter is super cool !
Is there a way to do this without your life depending only on the prusik?
You have the clove hitch as backup if the prusik fails
there s no reason it could fail
@@felixbub144 dont say that. There is a reason we have redundancies. maybe the prussik in principle is bomber. but a beginner may not wrap enough, tie it wrong, cord could be damaged.... most cases redundancies protect against user error not gear error.
@@AndrewHavranek-gt4zi rope ist t redundant einher. If the Cord geht s damaged the rope we ll most likely be too. If the hitch starts to slip you end up 5 cm bellow on the knot you were trying to pass
@@AndrewHavranek-gt4zi you do also weight it before unclipping your rappel device/ backup so you def checked it s function before
Thanks for this great video. It's really clear and well made.
Thanks!
Is avaible in spanish??
No lo siento, no está disponible en español.
How well do heads work in the narley cracks in the bark of ponderosa pine trees?
Great
Production quality went crazy on this, thank you!
By far the best tutorial channel of climbing history. 3D imagens, knowledge, pictures and instructions..... everything simply perfect ! Keep the good work guys !!!!
Wow, thanks!
Great explanation and Clearly described. 👍👍
Beak, beak, camhook, free move.
As with All things in life, when climbing, things will either work out in your favour, or they won’t. If you want guarantees, certainly Death is guaranteed. Your choice is whether you choose to live life to the fullest till then.
Awesome channel with great content! Love every video
Great video, thank you.
What is the name of this hook
👏👏👏
Great courses on your site. Really appreciate the content.
Thanks!
Step 1: Sling Step 2: Struggle I loved that haha. Jokes aside, this was very interesting, thank you for the video.
Very good video! Thanks
Great video
Having used similar systems in rope course rescue scenario's, I spot a big mistake/potential cause of problems: the prussik should be attached in the 'central' system, not on the climber itself. In the current setup, if - for some reason - the climber with the prussik slightly unweighs themselves, there is the potential for the prussik to slide up into the abseil device. You have to experience this once to realise why this is such a big issue.
Hi Fabian, thanks for your feedback. You're right. I once used this setup to rappel with 150+kg of haulbags during a big wall solo descent. When I stopped rappelling, the haulbags would continue rappelling themselves and it was very difficult to control because they were literally twice my weight. After that first rappel I switched to system where the prusik was attached to the central system, as you pointed out, which was much better with a heavy load! This isn't an issue with climbers who are approximately the same weight, though. There are many ways of connecting 2 climbers to one device. This video only shows one example of the setup, which is simple and works fairly well in many cases. There are pros and cons to every method, so we can't say that one is the 'right' way. I just thought this was a good one to share with people. I would love to add a whole bunch of alternative methods in future videos (I'm a super-geek) to make this much more comprehensive. I appreciate your constructive feedback, thanks!
what "central system" means in this regard?
@@alessandroiotti8620 the system where the load of both climbers is fully shared. In the example, only the karabiner with abseil device shares the load
@@vdiffclimbing Even with climbers of similar weight, you can quickly end up in the problematic situation I mention (for sure not an edge case). Since you are demonstrating this method in a rescue-context, you should opt for applying a technique which minizes the risk for additional complications.
Thanks @@fabianpoels2728 . I have just been to a self-rescue course here in Italy on these topics. For descending with an injured partner we placed braking device on belay loop of our injured partner located above me. I connected myself to the injured partner with two opposing quickdraws (to keep distance short and avoid possible openings). I have prusik on my belay loop. I basically hang myselt directly to the belay loop of the injured partner which has breaking device on him. I decide speed of descending by releasing the prusik on my belay loop. We pratice the descend and it was smooth. Does that sound right according to the complications you mention?
I was practicing moving around my aiders on bolts, and found I had a difficult time keeping the rungs of the ladders to the middle of my feet and balancing against the wall. Do I smear my feet or just the tip of my shoe against the wall?
Do both of those things. Smearing your feet works better on less-than-vertical rock or if you are wearing flexible approach shoes. Having the tip of your shoe against the wall works better when wearing more rigid boots. Imagine how you would place your feet when free climbing - it's kinda similar. It takes a lot of practise, have fun!
I'm mesmerized, thanks for all this marvelous effort, insanely good tips <3
Awesomeee, thanks for the tips guys! regards from Chile!
You should of mentioned Ed Leeper of Boulder, CO. 70s. Hooks, Cam Hooks, Crack Em Ups (Beaks) , Bolt Hangers with Button Head Split Studs...his product manual is online 🤓🤠
Ooh scaarry meetels fo de rokser. Safeetey fi pantde poipers..yees
Can we get a HowNot2 video on these to see some data/numbers?
Not really any useful numbers. When you place a head, you're deforming it so much that test pulls in a lab setting are meaningless. Every placement needs to be tested individually (just like any other hard aid placement). Got to know how to bounce test your new placement, without risking shock loading your previous piece. You can certainly test the loop end of a home-made head to see how strong that swage is, but testing the business end is kind of pointless.
Amazing. Type 2 fun.😂
hahaha I love your videos please don't stop
Thanks Michael! More videos coming soon..
great video!! lots of stuff i never knew but more importantly it made me laugh out loud.
Watching a screamer unwind on a talon gives me the warm fuzzies.😅
Great video! I bought some of your excellent eBook's several years ago and remember wishing you had videos. Subscribed...
Thanks Jeff!
By far the dumbest piece of climbing gear I’ve ever seen, what’s the purpose?
Awesome. for 20 days I would love to see a 4 part series! thanks VDiff!!