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So the parts that cause the most issues are IAC and MAF. The reality is replacing all the parts will give you performance and reliability of a new car. A part that is 30 years old is going to have signs of wear. Many argue that you should troubleshoot and determine what actually failed, a good step for someone on a budget. But a 30 year old car is different, parts fail and degrade. Parts are also affordable, but will become more costly in 10 years. If you want reliability and ease of troubleshooting, replacing the parts you mentioned will help. If you are on a budget, replace the IAC is the first step. The 94 Mustang is now 30 years old, that was like buying a 64 1/2 Mustang 30 years ago. I had people trying to trade their 65 Mustang for my 89 S10 truck 30 years ago (and they also offered cash). Times change and what is popular today will change, but having a proper running 30 year old Mustang is worth more than the best running car today. Just my opinion. Best of luck.

@chasingmustangs also what is the purpose of the yellow wire is it to charge or to power the brushes to the stator or what ever it’s called? Thanks if you can help me out been having a problem that my car won’t charge when a load it. A whole list of things that I have tried that I won’t bore you with.

Yellow yes, the white wire is the stater connector and loops back to the stater connector on the alternator.

@@chasingmustangs alright yellow wire to the starter solenoid nut and it does not need a fuse right

@@Macho_MT It does not need a fuse because you need to put a fuse on the wire directly from the alternator to battery. This is the main power wire on the alternator.

No problem!

The largest port on the rear is the best one for manifold pressure.

LOL, the business owns many Ford Trucks at this time. Four houses go to the gas tank: one for the overfill, one the purge valve, one for the vent sednoid and one for the fuel pump. The vent solenoid will not prevent the truck from filling up. Plus, the vent solenoid will show an error when it is not working on Ford Trucks. Only the purge valve will cause this problem, as it is designed to prevent gas fumes from entering the environment. The purge valve will cause problems even if it has a partial failure. So owning a lot of Ford Trucks of all types has given me the experience to know when to replace the purge valve. I don't want people to waste money, I don't claim to be an expert, so feel free to share something if you have more insight. But I can't afford failure failure and the replacing the purge valve has always resolve the issue. Again, you can always return the part if it does not resolve the issue.

Yes

@@chasingmustangs should I plug it if the smog pump has been removed?

@@anthonycarranza8342 Yes

Thanks for the help!

@@HatterasJeepguy old video, I don't put music in the videos anymore.

You could brake the vent arm of the actuator you installed.

@@chasingmustangs Is that the arm of the actuator or the thing that plugs onto?

@@chasingmustangs How hard is that to fix if it happens?

@@green3488 it's not easy. Cramped space and hard to see what you are doing.

@green3488 The arm of the actuator connects to vent lever.

@loisnemeth1728 no, you will have to go to a hardware store.

You will need 3mm, 4mm and 8mm hoses. The alternate part number is this for the diverter. www.amazon.com/Evaporative-Compatible-Expedition-9L14-9H465-BA-6L3Z9H465A/dp/B08ZYV7RDG. You can buy this vacuum hose kit on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/315340258971?epid=530103742&itmmeta=01J27Y309PFW5TP38R8A21251R&hash=item496bbe7e9b:g:ZEEAAOSwcMBmNOkf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Eiag6L82p5djolcuDD8r5zr3YlY1aOMgxs47XSOP7%2BWdbsu6zFtIw7vxnpchPZuDC9LIoid%2FLbXKxgToW%2B0lWVtuI4zRXohnAzZEoAG3cEy%2B7x3Sfei7bu%2FDz2oBxIi4etZus7UULHc8jEszcHfovUINhoRlEIfVXLB9wWzVRBFbJJ5HZvwDEpe0Lh3IcYXeE3ncEEb0G%2B7ESeGXynUNYjSnhle%2FOxD5BHtor9DEAQUptK6BFXgZBrpNC4apkCviZQdWdPb7KXVCAVStnFBPk%2FaZv%2FaL%2BrBvUHwSqn7t3CfpHnzkg8Y%2B6oFxIyFN76GKg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4qFjP6RZA

@@thatslowgrom2335 unique sensor for each.

@@StevenGutierrez-y7w automatic or manual?

The sales numbers really showed the Ranger was getting old. After 2004, sales dropped drastically.

⁠@@chasingmustangsYep, that’s right. If I was Ford I would’ve done an overhaul redesign inside & out right away after that if not before.

I made the video because I could not find any good sources when I was troubleshooting vacuum issues. Glad to help.

The edge motor mounts have different nut sizes. But thanks for pointing this out.

Nothing for sale at this time. You could get a Ranger 4X4 with a 2.3 but they are rare.

check your local junk yard and maybe you will get lucky.

Many Ford vehicles actually call for ATF Fluid instead of regular power steering fluid. Important to check your vehicles manual.

@@chasingmustangs I have a 95 mustang GT as well that's why I'm asking, but I'll double check before I pour anything into it. Thank you much appreciated and happy late Father's Day 🫡

My daughter owned it for 6 years and then sold it.

Its a Mustang designed to compete with the Chrysler LeBaron in the early 80's.

I just got done with getting my 2003 Ranger going. Its been out of commission 2 years. More to come.

More than likely you have a distributor that has the wrong gear material for your camshaft. I have never seen this and the only recommendation I have is to rotate the engine and keep trying.

www.autozone.com/filters-and-pcv/fuel-filter/p/duralast-fuel-filter-ff782dl/366586_0_0?searchText=fuel+filter

You don't need the fuse.

It was an engine pushed beyond its years.

@@chasingmustangs No doubt about it, I think it lasted from like the mid 80’s until 2008 or so. But like I said they should’ve replaced it with something like the 3.0 Duratec that the Escape had which was a peppy little engine or they should’ve updated it like they did the 2.3 & 4.0.