You want one nail holding the board in, do not drive the nail through both boards, nail the top board just above the one below it. If you use two nails in the board it will cause splits in the middle of the board running horizontal and you'll have a fun time caulking that split years from now when you go to paint it again
It would probably cost you more for aluminum foil plus it is also not a vapor barrier and could cause mold to build up inside your walls. But I have never tried aluminum foil so this is just my best assumption of what could happen.
I'm seeing different nailing patterns on TH-cam. Some use one nail just above the lap point. Some use two. This guy using one that seems to lunch through both boards?
Ideally you nail so that you are nailing through the bottom of the piece you are installing and through the top of the piece that you are overlapping. If you nail above the piece you are overlapping you have a better chance of cracking the piece you are installing because of the thickness of the piece of siding you are lapping over top of and the gap that is above it and between the piece you are installing. Some people will double nail in high wind areas so that it holds up in the wind. Let me know if that does not make sense. Thank you!
Traditionally you are only supposed to lightly nail through one board. You don't want everything locked together tight. You want it to expand and contract without pulling nails. A lot of people weren't taught that.
Great Instructional video. Very informative and helpful!!! Loved the instruction on making cuts for roof pitches using the 2' square and the speed square to make a template.
I would, but it is not necessary. If you tape it off it will make it a tighter package/envelope, but some say that you should not make the package/envelope completely tight. It is really up to you. In my opinion it is good to seal up every possible penetration from the outside air so that it takes a minimal amount of a heat source to maintain the temperature you are looking for.
@@fourriversfellowship Thanks for the quick reply. In canada Rona and Lowes, don't carry this thin foil paper. Where'd ya get it, I am 1 more store trip away from buying tin foil for the kitchen lol
@@ryanbeachstaff3436 I had to order it from our local lumberyard. It took a couple of weeks to get. I know that Menards, HomeDepot and Lowes do not carry it, but I am not sure if they are able to order it or not. Here is a link where you can order it online: www.radiantguard.com/products/radiant-barrier-ultima-foil-insulation-u500vb?variant=1151184031¤cy=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2af-BRDzARIsAIVQUOdTcIoilZU7wUL8is-ukd0N5Tm0f9ahLe3cryPzeMFQCwE1WmEDy8IaAkEeEALw_wcB
Ok so let me get this right, if we fear getting sick, getting others sick, and potentially dying from COVID-19 we aren’t believers? So us that wear masks to be decent humans to try not to get others sick and being the reason other people die, we aren’t believers? Even if we believe in Jesus and believe that we are decent enough to go to heaven you’re going to sit there and tell us we aren’t because we aren’t “believers” because we live in fear? Interesting.
What would you suggest for homes in New England (not coastal) in terms of the space being left at the ends to be filled with caulking? Would you still suggest taking a 1/4" off the length of the board (1/8" on either side), like you said in the video, or should more be taken off to compensate for expansion caused by humidity in the region?
What are the exact name of these boards and where can I get them?
I dont understand why there is no furrings straps? most videos show a gap behind the panels for water drainage?
What type of staples do you use? Galvanized ?
You want one nail holding the board in, do not drive the nail through both boards, nail the top board just above the one below it. If you use two nails in the board it will cause splits in the middle of the board running horizontal and you'll have a fun time caulking that split years from now when you go to paint it again
Very good instruction. Thanks Dave.
Cool video Dave thanks for sharing...
Wish I'd watched you do yours before I made a mess of my first attempt. :)
Thanks for the video. I like how you calculated your gap , and I’m making a jig for the angle cuts. Btw, dam that cedar was cupped.
Thank you Dave 🤙🏽
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Which foil barrier did you end up using?
How did it turn out? I'm building a sauna in my backyard right now and I'm to this point.
The regular plastic poly will melt in a sauna??
What happens is that the heat breaks it down and it disintegrates over time.
with the heat it definitely could, plus the foil bounces the heat back into the sauna if that makes sense.
You are an excellent craftsman. I felt like I was apprenticing under you watching this video. Thanks for the excellent instruction.
Great video…thanks so much for taking the time to do this!
Sharing your knowledge... Thanx man)
excellent video!! very helpful!!
Okay. Im all about being ghetto.. but what would go wrong if I used aluminum foil that is ment for food
It would probably cost you more for aluminum foil plus it is also not a vapor barrier and could cause mold to build up inside your walls. But I have never tried aluminum foil so this is just my best assumption of what could happen.
you talking too much my friend xaxaxaxxa
You aren't listening enough...my friend. 😂
I'm seeing different nailing patterns on TH-cam. Some use one nail just above the lap point. Some use two. This guy using one that seems to lunch through both boards?
Ideally you nail so that you are nailing through the bottom of the piece you are installing and through the top of the piece that you are overlapping. If you nail above the piece you are overlapping you have a better chance of cracking the piece you are installing because of the thickness of the piece of siding you are lapping over top of and the gap that is above it and between the piece you are installing. Some people will double nail in high wind areas so that it holds up in the wind. Let me know if that does not make sense. Thank you!
I thought you were supposed nailed above the overlap to allow for expansion
Traditionally you are only supposed to lightly nail through one board. You don't want everything locked together tight. You want it to expand and contract without pulling nails. A lot of people weren't taught that.
how did it turn out?
Great Instructional video. Very informative and helpful!!! Loved the instruction on making cuts for roof pitches using the 2' square and the speed square to make a template.
Amen I agree...Jesus dose have the Power!!....This is SPIRITUAL ....Thank You!
Thanks for the rundown. Off to give it a go myself...
Thank you so much as that is exactly where I am in my build. And like you will probably be doing it alone!
Good vid Dave
Good message Dave
Thanks Travis!
Do I need to tape off the vapor barrier with the floors vapor barrier?
I would, but it is not necessary. If you tape it off it will make it a tighter package/envelope, but some say that you should not make the package/envelope completely tight. It is really up to you. In my opinion it is good to seal up every possible penetration from the outside air so that it takes a minimal amount of a heat source to maintain the temperature you are looking for.
Thanks for showing this!
What insulation did you choose? R rating?
it is a fiberglass R21
@@fourriversfellowship Thanks for the quick reply. In canada Rona and Lowes, don't carry this thin foil paper. Where'd ya get it, I am 1 more store trip away from buying tin foil for the kitchen lol
@@ryanbeachstaff3436 I had to order it from our local lumberyard. It took a couple of weeks to get. I know that Menards, HomeDepot and Lowes do not carry it, but I am not sure if they are able to order it or not. Here is a link where you can order it online: www.radiantguard.com/products/radiant-barrier-ultima-foil-insulation-u500vb?variant=1151184031¤cy=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2af-BRDzARIsAIVQUOdTcIoilZU7wUL8is-ukd0N5Tm0f9ahLe3cryPzeMFQCwE1WmEDy8IaAkEeEALw_wcB
@@fourriversfellowship how can you get R21 rating with 2x4 framing?
@@SuperMapupa the exterior walls are 2x6 with an R21 not 2x4
Excellent video with great information. Thanks!
Nice work. I’m afraid of galvanized nails in cedar. I bought stainless tp prevent bleeding. Great information all in all. Thanks!
Ok so let me get this right, if we fear getting sick, getting others sick, and potentially dying from COVID-19 we aren’t believers? So us that wear masks to be decent humans to try not to get others sick and being the reason other people die, we aren’t believers? Even if we believe in Jesus and believe that we are decent enough to go to heaven you’re going to sit there and tell us we aren’t because we aren’t “believers” because we live in fear? Interesting.
What would you suggest for homes in New England (not coastal) in terms of the space being left at the ends to be filled with caulking? Would you still suggest taking a 1/4" off the length of the board (1/8" on either side), like you said in the video, or should more be taken off to compensate for expansion caused by humidity in the region?
So helpful! Thanks for taking the time to provide this information!!
Thank you, Pastor Dave!!