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This is my preferred method for wheel balancing now. The 2 1/2 inch steel ball along with hub centric rings is able to cover most of the hub sizes. There are cases where the wheel spokes / hub pilot are closer to the center, they will likely be unstable. Then I would use a vertical method like this one th-cam.com/video/du5cTMqpIhY/w-d-xo.html Since then, I've heard that trailer hubs don't have grease seals, so they should work with no mods. I have not tried to find one.

@@richbinaz cool, good job

Wow, they got expensive. Glad it helped!!

Yes it can. I ended up using a steel electrical cover plate along with a steel ball as they are much less likely to break with heavy tires. th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html Silverado 1500 tires 75 lbs It is important for the surface to be FLAT and LEVEL. th-cam.com/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/w-d-xo.html

Just checked and it's 1/2" ID Vinyl. Probably got it from Ace Hardware. They have rolls on the wall and you can buy it by the foot. I see they changed the funnel design, mine has a cap to keep dust out of the top when in storage.

@@richbinaz Thanks! Just got some. Weirdly that funnel is only $7 at oreillys or autozone but $12+ on amazon, so just went to the physical store. Another nice thing I just noticed is that it has a metal screen/filter inside it. I have accidentally seen little bits of debris or even a leaf get kicked up and fall into my funnels before, so that'll help.

Thanks, it was fun and needed to be done.

Thanks for the info. It has made this noise since day 1 and I'm kind of used to it. Changing the rubber dampers over looks tricky and I don't have the machine tools to do it properly, so I'll just put up with it.

Thank you. It has been a long learning curve and I am actually doing 2 tires today for a Kia Soul. I will try to video everything, capture tips and keep it short (hard). Current best balancing video th-cam.com/video/JvN4i-qJqMs/w-d-xo.html Google translate: Mulțumesc. A fost o curbă lungă de învățare și de fapt fac 2 anvelope astăzi pentru o Kia Soul. Voi încerca să filmez totul, să surprind sfaturi și să o fac scurt (greu). Cel mai bun videoclip actual de echilibrare

Good idea, but I don't carry them with me everywhere... Are you AI?

@@richbinaz I just watched your last video where you floated the idea and hoped you'd have a video doing it

It would probably help you get in contact...

may be smart to wear high-vis when placing the cones 🤣 don't know how much I trust them

@@johndowe6161 I tried that when it parked in front of my driveway. Just read what I wrote under that video and it looks like it took 2 weeks for them to get back to me... In other words, they just don't care!

Phone number pasted on the vehicle is faster... Are you AI?

I tried that when it parked in front of my driveway. Just read what I wrote under that video and it looks like it took 2 weeks for them to get back to me... In other words, they just don't care!

Yep. Have to figure out how to drain the tank first. Only worked on gravity tanks before... The 1991 Suzuki I have, has a fuel gauge that has never failed - similar float system - just no pump.

I think a change was made to the transmission to add a launch gear some time around the 2018 model year??? This really applies only to the K313 transmission. You most likely have a K120 transmission. From what I can tell, you can only do a drain and fill on that one. No sump pan, it's all cast. Here's a video I found - th-cam.com/video/ZUPyr_JrzSo/w-d-xo.html

This one isn't... But I have had one park in front of my driveway and it took 2 weeks to contact someone and get a reply, after I had to search for a phone number on-line. The car rolled off with no warning in about 15 minutes, but If I needed to get a car out... how could I get it moved?? th-cam.com/video/St9p4qoJxc0/w-d-xo.html Best thing is to print a phone number on the car so that I can contact someone immediately to tell them to move it. It could be that fire/ambulance/police need it moved... but there is no way to contact them.

Those are Mikuni BST36mm

I got the 80mm glass ball on amazon, but i found out it was to big for the alloy wheel I tried to balance at the end of the video. I ended up getting a 2 1/2 inch steel ball from amazon, which does a better job, specially coupled with a simple steel plate I picked up from home depot. Try this video th-cam.com/video/JvN4i-qJqMs/w-d-xo.html There is one downside of the steel ball in that it doesn't fit some of the larger wheels with bigger pilots. To solve that issue, I got some plastic centric rings and was able to use them on a CX5, Kia soul and even 2 together on a Silverado 1500. th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html The centric rings I got were 67mm to 60mm & 78mm to 67.1mm

They were successful and I didn't have to wait 100 years (century plant) for the next flowering, only 7 years. th-cam.com/video/nrZVDWxEfBc/w-d-xo.html Planting them in the ground is the best solution, it allows the hundreds of fine roots to spread out. I have one in a 12" pot that is root bound and just not doing well and probably won't flower. Here's a short video of how I planted one of the bulbils this February th-cam.com/video/vfckb6jacEs/w-d-xo.html It's actually going into the same spot as a previous one. It's on a drip emitter for watering, so probably getting too much water, but it works. Had one in the front garden that got attacked by a nasty weevil. Had to cut it down early and get rid of it.

That's awesome to hear. I'm in AZ too and researching what I will do when it's time to plant mine! Thanks for the info!

Thank you for reading the steps - few do 😸 Almost there - here's a summary written slightly differently... You have the car level within 1 degree... pan back on... level straw in... drain plug in finger tight. You refill the trans with a little bit more FE oil than you measured coming out. (say ~5 qts) You start the car in maintenance mode (steps 11 & 12) The "D" should disappear when the oil is below temp (<35°C) NOW is the time to go under the car and remove the drain plug to drain out the excess. Leave it out while you get back to see the dashboard. As soon as the "D" appears, go back under and put the drain plug in. That accounts for any expansion of the oil while the transmission heats up. You now have the correct level and can torque up the drain bolt The D stays on for a 10°C span before it starts to flash (>45°C), so the 1 minute it takes to get back under the car, put the drain plug in and tighten it a little, will fall easily in that time span. This does work - you are almost there! Yes I had to think it thru several times before committing and doing it.

It works on most of the larger chips, but eventually the smaller sand sized chips that aren't practical to fill, end up covering the windscreen. Then you just wait for the giant rock to hit the glass.

Haha yup I hear you but I am just staying ahead of the game so none of my very small chips don’t spread or become weaker with the continuous usage of heat and ac

5 gram, or 1/4 oz in my case, is more than good enough for the speeds I'm comfortable with. There is a tollway in Oklahoma with an 85mph speed limit and the tires are smooth as silk at that speed. I now just use the sticky weights too, so I can put them in the wheel CG plane. That avoids dynamic vibration issues.

Yes, great video! Got me inspired, thank you! There were a few problems I came across that I very slowly solved... 1. The ball and the resting surface have to be fairly hard - Now I have a steel ball and plate 2. The CG of the wheel/tire assy must be below the CG of the ball - For stability 3. The resting surface has to be level, to eliminate induced errors 4. For large wheel pilots, use hub centric ring(s) to reduce the pilot down to suit the ball size. The useless bubble balancer is now a paper weight in the shed. The largest tires I have done now were on a GM silverado truck. My sons father in law was complaining the wheel was bouncing up and down at 60mph - so I did a check balance when I took it off. It was way out. previously balanced by a large chain store over here (Discount tire) th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html I had trouble getting the new tire beads to seat, so I forgot to record the balance with new tires on. But the laser balancing worked great. No complaints at freeway/motorway speeds. Saw this later on, after finally getting the tires on. I thought there must be an easier and cheaper way th-cam.com/video/cHuyseqOUHw/w-d-xo.html I have small inner tubes ready and waiting.

Thanks for watching. I probably won't do another unless they launch a heavy from California.

Great! Hope you have a lot of room above the plant for it to grow nice and tall.

Thanks, I did have a pdf for a guide, but I am not a qualified mechanic and don't have their techstream computer. Link to forum and pdf guide. www.toyotanation.com/threads/cvt-drain-and-refill-question.1691371/#post-14363441 I was worried about using a paper clip to short those 2 connections together in the OBD2 port to put it into maintenance mode. Checked that 3 or 4 times before turning the key on. It worked. A lot of people do a drain and fill. I think it's worth changing the filter and cleaning out the sump at least once. My daughter sold the car at 156K miles. No transmission problems! (she got a Tesla...)

Lo siento, no hablo español. Una cosa que puedes hacer es hacer clic en el botón "mostrar transcripción". Seleccione y copie la transcripción y colóquela en Google Translate. La transcripción no es la mejor, pero puede ayudar. El traductor de Google es cómo hice este comentario.

You are welcome. If you have any questions, I'll answer the best I can.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when I inevitably run into something i can't find any info on!

I think you are correct. I have a Bonneville that had a baffle in the airbox to reduce the flow to effectively 2x the diameters of the carburetor throats. I have not measured the G orifice, but it probably affects the main jet size

I have changed the air filter as they are no longer available, so I built one myself from a cabin filter. I wonder if I need more airflow resistance to delay the lifting of the throttle slide. Perhaps it needs to spend more time in the idle circuits before trying to get into the needle jets. It feels like it is running out of fuel until I pull on the choke (enricher cicuit). If I can get it to 4-5K rpm and onto full throttle, choke off, it pulls as hard as it ever did.

Hello Rich, what cabin filter did you use? How many km has your bike done? Do you use ethonal fuel? Robert

@@bobsbikeworld1894 Hi Robert, looks like I need to compile how I made this filter. I best get on it. I used the longest and thinnest one I could find on the filter rack in Walmart. A Supertech 5500 www.walmart.com/ip/SuperTech-Cabin-Air-Filter-5500-Replacement-Cabin-Air-Dust-Filter-for-GM-Fits-select-2010-2017-CHEVROLET-EQUINOX-2011-2015-HYUNDAI-SONATA/362251597 It took quite a bit of work removing the old filter from the frame and I used RTV to glue the modified filter into the envelope. The air resistance is lower than the OEM filter - I blew thru them for this scientific comparison. I used 2 long bolts to hold the endplate in place. I am fairly sure after a couple of recent tests that the lower air flow resistance is not messing up the carbs. I'm now suspecting and over rich condition due to the slide flutter. I have 81,000 miles (130,000 Km) on it and it has lived on 10% ethanol it's whole life. There is no option in the phoenix area

@@bobsbikeworld1894 Here's the video of the air filter building th-cam.com/video/peqsf-R7ero/w-d-xo.html

Thanks for the input. I did put the little o-rings back. I took them off temporarily as I didn't want to loose them. Working outside... gusts of wind etc... The vacuum caps are in good nick. I have tested them blowing into them (1-2psi max). No leaks. The slides are bouncing up and down quite freely, so the teflon guides are fine. Plus they have been in there since 2008 and I don't see why they would suddenly become a problem now. Motolab has a discussion about slide guide wear, claiming the originals can be worn out at only 4000 miles, which seems hard to believe... here is their page on that store.moto-lab.com/articles/bst36-slide-guide-wear-indicators I think I have a reasonable gap, and they slide well. I have changed the air filter as they are no longer available, so I built one myself from a cabin filter. I wonder if I need more airflow resistance to delay the lifting of the throttle slide. Perhaps it needs to spend more time in the idle circuits before trying to get into the needle jets. It feels like it is running out of fuel until I pull on the choke (enricher cicuit). If I can get it to 4-5K rpm and onto full throttle, choke off, it pulls as hard as it ever did.

Double check the size of your pilot jets ..could be weak mixture below 3k

@@OldSkoolGrandad I'm probably going to take the carbs off again and have another cleaning session, perhaps even an overnight soak in some kind of solvent... B12??

The wear of the slide guides is a known issue of the original carbs. Some last longer than others, but nearly all of them get this problem after some time. At least im Germany many people run the carburettor of the GSX 1200 Bandit (Pop). This solved all my issues. On a normal day, I need the choke no longer than a minute.

@@PumpKing96 I have a set of teflon coated slide guides that keep the slides in much tighter alignment than even new slide guides. I did a test here th-cam.com/video/I_NwIajslVw/w-d-xo.html I think I have it cured now (episode 9). It's not perfect, but at least it runs now th-cam.com/video/H0Ao8J8HIto/w-d-xo.html

Sorry, I don't have an answer. Perhaps someone will spot this post and provide a solution

I've come up with an idea that might work and am currently waiting for some parts to arrive in the mail. It involves magnets and the eddy current principle as shown in this video. th-cam.com/video/MglUIiBy2lQ/w-d-xo.html I'm going to do some experiments first on a paperboard slide and other pieces, as it's an effect I can't calculate in advance. If I screw up the paperboard slide, then the actual throttle slide will be safe. New throttle slides are unobtainable if I screw up, so I'm taking it slowly.

Looks like the jet kit works th-cam.com/video/H0Ao8J8HIto/w-d-xo.html

Very helpful tip, Thanks

@@richbinaz no problem. I never heard of an 1100g until recently I was interested in buying one from someone, but he was really dodgy and never gave me information to actually go and check it out and buy it... but now I want one so I'll be on the search and tour videos and information are very helpful

@@chimera91977 The bike is comfy to sit on and ride and handles well despite it's weight - 630lbs+ It was made from 1991 to 1994. A lot of parts are similar to the Katana and Bandit. The last air cooled bandit was made in 2007?? I had a water cooled 1250. Great engine, but the seating was awful for me and was very hard on front tires. I have more to fix on these carbs before it will be rideable. They are the weakest spot.

Not in my nature - that's why I'm not on TV and don't have a billion subscribers I'm actually making these video's for me. So I can remember what I did the next time I have to do the same task X years in the future. I just put them on TH-cam in case someone else has a similar problem and wants to know how to fix it.

I do not have data on the actual amount of damping, just that the compression damping is via that clicker that lets oil into the remote reservoir. When it was rebuilt, they lined up the rebound dial wrong, so I had to come up with that table on where to locate the shock clicker so that the bypass holes were properly aligned. That helped a lot. These time indexes th-cam.com/video/IIz6Zm2rj14/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/IIz6Zm2rj14/w-d-xo.html I used 10W-30 synthetic, which seems to do a good job The last page says I set it at 10 clicks compression & #4 rebound (1.3) so no bypass hole. Not sure what it is set to now.

@@richbinaz Thanks a lot!

I cant find an air filter for it either OEM or K&N, in the USA or Europe. I should have overbent the reserve line more than I did, as it is starting to revert back.

If only this was the end of the saga... Took it out for a run today and it won't accept any throttle, just decelerates. Close throttle and it returns to idle, but it smells super rich. Pulled out Bonneville and it has a plugged idle jet too, but works everywhere else in the throttle. That should be an easier fix. I hope

@@richbinaz not getting a bad batch of fuel are you?

@@mattcowley2223 We get 10% ethanol, no option, so I suppose it is just bad period. This guy at project farm has done some testing on 0, 10 & 85% ethanol fuel. th-cam.com/video/UvS_D4_lF5U/w-d-xo.html

@@richbinaz hmmm, we have all sorts, 10%, 91,95 & 98. I normally just run the the 91.

Hi Matt, yea probably. It's a Kinetik Lithium iron phosphate battery - APP12L - that went into service Sept 2018. The previous lead acid lasted 3.5 years. Kinetik has probably gone belly up by now. This particular one seems to like being warm before it puts out enough juice to crank things over properly. Cranking it seems to warm it up. I don't know if you caught the difference (it is slight) but the 3rd crank went a little faster. I plan to run it till it croaks, then see what other new tech is out there.

@@richbinaz very surprised that it’s gone already then.

I did notice on mine that if the battery was low or flat, mine would pop and fart until it had some charge back in it.

@@mattcowley2223 The battery sits at around 13.25V after 24 hours (or more) And I checked the voltage when running and it is over 13.6V. It will go up to just over 14V, which is good for the LiFePO4 type batteries. I did a carb balance on it today and it runs much smoother, they were quite a bit out th-cam.com/video/w6MHzrXX3Ns/w-d-xo.html

Yes, good information. To get the bike down to a 400 lbs target weight, everything got thin. The engine cases and rotating masses are all minimalized. I'm amazed it runs so well. I had a clutch apart on an old Suzuki and it had the same grooves in the clutch basket. Which did not cause a problem before, but did afterwards as I think I shuffled the plates around a bit. So it was a bit grabby for the next 10K miles th-cam.com/video/xdG5Oq8_VJQ/w-d-xo.html Be ready with the pause button.

That is some very creative thinking there and it would almost work... Other than me not having a bucket of water big enough - could use an inflatable kiddie swimming pool. The issue I see is that the floating method is not relating back the wheels rotation axis. That is where the ball method comes in handy, the alignment is guaranteed. I did come up with some further refinements to get the alloy wheel to balance, using a smaller ball. th-cam.com/video/JvN4i-qJqMs/w-d-xo.html I also figured out the base for the ball has to be level too. There are still some exceptions where this won't work, but the example I saw was quite rare. It was a very narrow wheel used on the front with drag racers dragracingwheels.com/hellcat-r-t-scat-charger-challenger-narrow/ Specifically dragracingwheels.com/forgestar-d5-gloss-black-wheel-w-machined-lip-18x5-37-5x115bc-f0918c071n37/ It may not work with Morris Minor wheels!! Then I was presented with a large truck tire that was giving an in-law some issues. For that I used a pair of hub centric rings with the smaller steel ball to ensure the CG's would be in the right place for balancing. A test balance quickly revealed the balance was way off. Unfortunately I was have such trouble getting the tire to seat I didn't video the balancing result... but it did work th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html

@@richbinaz You're right, i didn't consider the axis when placed in water. So I'm understanding correctly, the solution for an alloy wheel would be to use hub centric rings to allow use of a smaller ball? I've got a wheel that has the face of the rim (spokes) set backwards about one third into the rim, making the center of gravitiy probably be somewhere at the flange level (please excuse my english). No matter how small the ball, center of gravity would always be too high. Another possibility I think about is using an old wheel hub, narrowing the inner diameter of the wheel bearing in that hub down by using a sleeve with a thread in the middle. Place the sleeve permanently into the bearing inner diameter (maybe press in). Thread a bolt into the sleeve and attach a wire to the head of the bolt, all perfectly center. Hang it from the ceiling. The thread in the sleeve can be used to thread the bolt in and out, setting the height of the pivot point of the system to where it's most sensitive, but not too much to where it tips over. A narrow pipe could be attached exactly center on said sleeve, slightly bigger than the bolt, maybe leaving a 1/8 of an inch gap between pipe and wire, indicating a perfectly balanced level wheel when the air gap is evenly distributed between wire and pipe. I saw this method on a device used to balance small airplane wheels. I liked the water idea because it would remove the need of a level surface. This method would also remove that need, but it's not absolutely low tech or low cost like the ball method, which is what i like about it. Also it balances the hub along with it, which isn't helping. Thinking about it, a metal cone with a thread in the center instead of an old hub would be better. It would also need a perfectly straght and centered pipe attached to it, not easy to do. That is kind of leaving the area of low cost solutions. Edit: I just watched the balancing video of the commenter below, David167projects. Seems I just came up with a similar idea that he already had earlier. I'll have to think about the simplest and most accurate way to make this work for an alloy wheel.

@@Geiler_Daddy Yes, the set back may make it impossible to use the ball balancing method. Here is how I found where the CG is, relative to the hub face. th-cam.com/video/fwqR13Do1XY/w-d-xo.html If the CG of the wheel is above the geometric center of the ball, it won't work If you can find a trailer hub (I heard they don't have grease seals in them) that fits your wheels bolt pattern and pilot diameter (perhaps with the aid of centric rings), you may be able to do a vertical balance, providing the friction is low enough. I have tried that with a regular hub, removing the grease seals and it works fairly well. One of the hubs had a lot of resistance after taking out the grease seals and I had to do other things, which didn't work out as well as I hoped. Here is that method. th-cam.com/video/du5cTMqpIhY/w-d-xo.html The downside is you end up with a hub that can only balance one wheel pattern. I have seen that propellor balancing setup, which can work nicely. I don't have a sky hook to hang it from though. No welding gear or access to a lathe either. I do get the low cost aspect, it's what drives my designs. If the parts cost too much, may as well have a shop balance them. I have been keeping tabs on all the costs involved comparing them with the cost of having Discount tire do them and I am ahead of the game after 21 tires so far. Oh and knowing where the CG of the wheel is helps locate the optimal location of any add on weights, to avoid dynamic imbalance. I prefer stick on weight to rim weight now because of that vibration. I have a whole playlist of video's starting from square 1. The hopes, the disappointments, plowing thru to get solutions. It was a longer learning curve than I hoped for. th-cam.com/play/PLWHom5FLIC6vZSy2jL7YB3xnY2jVi5Mgt.html Just saw this down the video's on the right side th-cam.com/video/n86Rn2OWp88/w-d-xo.html It didn't work out - the reason is that centerpoint in the cap has to be exactly dead center. Not even a couple of thou off. If it's say .010" off center and the wheel assy weighs 40 lbs, that is the same as a .8oz weight at a radius of 8 inches. I'll let him know.

Thanks for the comments, I'm compiling a list of things to try. Grandkids coming by this weekend - have to play with them. Then it's back to changing a drip irrigation over from useless black PVC tubing to white schedule 40 tubing. Then I can get back to the bike - perhaps. Or is it taxes ugh.

Plugs

Had same problem with my GSX1100g as well they keep fouling out

Flat and low battery voltage does the same thing also

@@chrismattocks288 Hi Chris, I put new ones in and it does exactly the same thing. Amazingly I was able to get the JR9B's at a local autozone.

It did look good to start with, but after a couple of weeks, it is starting to flatten in that super tight bend. Sigh. Good job that is just the reserve position & it has a 5 gallon (US) tank.

Good Question! It's a crude scroll housing, made from paperboard things such as cereal boxes and empty beer cases. What does it do? When you spin the concept 2 rower, you are actually spinning a large "squirrel cage" fan rotor. It pumps air from inside to outside. The perforated sheet wrapped around the outside acts as a diffuser, to slow the airflow down and stop curious fingers from getting damaged when they are poked into the fast rotating fan. So the scroll housing collects the air that is pushed out thru roughly 1/2 of the perimeter and redirects it towards the rower as a cooling flow - evaporating sweat etc, etc. Here it is th-cam.com/video/dvqM8gfpxK8/w-d-xo.html Want to make one? Here is roughly what I did - not a true scroll, but close enough. And I do make errors, because I'm human. th-cam.com/video/DfeXKF-uJWw/w-d-xo.html Here is another handy tool I use for chain oiling - every 50 hours th-cam.com/video/aWp1NohmJ5s/w-d-xo.html

Yes they are... I would say impossible I'm looking on Revzilla as they seem to know if they can get stuff or not. No fuel hoses and no air filters. Just checked brake pads and no OEM parts, only aftermarket Best get those soft pads that don't wear out the discs, because the discs are... unavailable as OEM parts. I'm working on rebuilding the air filter now, might have something to share in a couple of days

If the screwdriver trick makes the latch close, could the pin at the bottom have moved? I have not got into that area to see if it is adjustable for position.

@@richbinaz Does the u shaped pin float or is it supposed to be rigid? My trunk won't close but the pin (the bumper side not the latch) seems to float around. Either cracked, loose or it's supposed to move? Thanks.