วีดีโอ

When I was commuting to work, there were not that many trucks, just drivers who I estimate were 15% idiots. For the 31 years of commuting, 30 of them were on a motorbike - which you can do in Phoenix as it doesn't rain or freeze. If I had been in a car, I would have been hit multiple times, but the bike was a smaller target, so I had enough time to be positioned out the way or get out the way when (not if) someone did something dumb. On this long cross country trip, 4 days - 2000 miles, we just do the speed limit and try to stay away from the speeders and if the trucks want to pass us, we let them go. I even cut the cruise speed back 3 clicks, so they can pass easier before resuming. No games. It didn't help this time obviously. I don't know what he was thinking. He approached from behind so he must have seen us, but then he forgot about us??? What is wrong with his short term memory??? He couldn't see us so he just pulled in on us. Stupid. He should lose his CDL, but I bet I won't get a say in that.

Just checked the manual (pg 1-9) and you are indeed correct!! That was the APS I was adjusting. Apologies to all about the error... So looking at the diagram pg 1-10, the APS tells the computer what position you just turned the twist grip to... The computer does its magic and turns the servo motor to some position... Then the TPS tells the computer where the throttle plates are set and does any corrections necessary. All in 1/1000th of a second. The chain and sprockets are fine, I only have about 7500 miles on them and increased the ridiculously tight amount of slack based on measurements of the 3 axis relating to chain tightness and how tight I think a chain should be. I have a PPT slide show about that somewhere... Oh here it is th-cam.com/video/z3yWb7gGfKY/w-d-xo.html I'm approaching 70 now and may be giving up riding soon if the docs can't fix some issues I have.

Yes, about 1/4 mile down the road. He was deemed 100% at fault, but I'm sure my insurance rates will go up anyway.

This may not be the transmission, even though everything points to it. My corolla does the same thing on a more frequent basis. I think it is a fueling issue as I have caught the rev counter dropping on take off. Had a computer update done once and for the 100 mile "re-learning" period after that, there was no issue and it even accelerated better. After that, back to the same. At 180K miles, the CVT oil change noted above should help even if it only cleans out the sump of debris and puts a new filter in.

I did not remove the cooler, so I can't give you that number. The risk of getting dirt into the system by removing the cooler is probably not worth it. Compared to the total system volume of around 8 QTS, which includes oil trapped in the torque converter.

If you have a regular lead acid battery then yes. Also the rear frame over the battery that supports the tank. You might find this video / PPT helpful. th-cam.com/video/5yzw-_lsga8/w-d-xo.html

Hiya, Trying to bend it with the wrench did not work, it needed to be struck with the metal rod thru the spokes. I did a lot of checking to see how much each strike gave me, then adjusted the force and number of hits to suit. It is still working. I did try to sand down what I thought was a high spot before resorting to the sledge hammer method. Now I have a thin spot on the disc, which is noticeable when using the back brake. Something not to do.

It is a steel gasket with a coating of RTV already on it. I added nothing to it. No leaks or retightening in the 55K miles she put on the car after the change, before she sold it. I would advise against using additional RTV as it could squeeze out internally, little bits could break off and get stuck in the filter.

@@richbinaz tq so much

I believe the cause of the misalignment was a missing pilot between the clutch pressure plate and the inner hub. The fix was a special cylindrical tool that needed to be in place when the clutch spring bolts were tightened. This centered the plate and cured the loud banging noises and surging associated with the problem. I'm not finding much info about it on-line now

No, it really stays up in the valve gear. Do you have an early Bonnie... like an '01 or '02 ??? Those had trouble with clutch noises when the inner hub was misaligned

Thank you for responding. I have a 2012 Bonneville T100. And I think it is coming from the clutch area. I guess I'll be pulling the clutch cover off and seeing what I can find.

@@robertsullivan5219 The 2012's were well sorted by then. They even changed the air/oil separator in the clutch housing to simplify it.

I have to use the knee pads. You would think with a knee replacement the pain would be gone... oh no - very sensitive. I'm using the cheesy $5 Lowes Kobalt ones now and toss them when the foam starts to collapse. Sweat band essential in Phoenix. The salt in the sweat just stings like crazy!

Yes. I saw lots of steel welded up bars that looked very nice. But I don't have a welder or all that steel stock lying around waiting for a project to use it on. After thinking about it for a while, I came up with a cheaper and easier to make a bar. Just need woodworking tools... th-cam.com/video/W8MddFsFmgA/w-d-xo.html Here I am using it on a Silverado 1500 tire. Not all steps shown, but the Mk4 bar works th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html This one shows all the steps th-cam.com/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/w-d-xo.html

As well as the sand in the grass, you may find crushed granite under the turf (if it was done right). That stuff is quite waterproof and a good weed barrier. You will want to dig that out too if you hope to grow things in the dirt.

There is a lot of general clattering because it's air cooled. Doesn't have a nice water jacket to sop up the noise. It's easier to tell live as sound doesn't record very well - auto levelling. It can be heard at 1:10 & it's gone at 1:50 The noise is caused by insufficient load from the spring in the cam gear. The spring pushes the 2 cam gears apart to take up the slop in the gear teeth. Without the mechanism, when a cam rotates and goes from "pushing down a valve" to being "pushed up by the valve", it slaps the gear teeth... i.e., the noise at 1:10 in the video

Thanks 😸 It took me quite a while to figure it all out graphically, but this is my go to method for wheel balancing now, after the disappointment of the HF bubble balancer ($92). I did buy a wooden 2x3 ($3) for the stool legs and a steel electrical box cover plate ($1) for under the steel ball ($8). The rest I already had laying around as wood scraps, deck screws, nuts & bolts. Nice to put all that to use. The hub centric rings that allow me to use the 2 1/4" steel ball on larger pilots cost $20 for the 2 sizes 67.1mm to 60.1mm & 78mm to 67.1mm.

@@richbinaz Great info! Best design on TH-cam for sure and I have been experimenting and testing searching for years!! All the details you provide will be so helpful to perfect the design so it is actually functional and repeatable can't believe how inferior the Harbor Freight balancer is along with hold on sold on Amazon and eBay.

@@richbinaz your illustrations and exploration are also so helpful!

@@forestpassineau Are you building one for yourself?? Excellent!!! OR are you trying to fix the bubble balancer itself?? I don't know what a "hold on sold" means, but it sounds like they are getting a lot of returns. A couple of the amazon sellers say 50+ or 100+ sold last month. I can't believe they are all perfectly made. Perhaps people have lower expectations or just give up. Sad. I did spend time trying to fix the bubble balancer, but in the end, I would need a lathe to re-machine the internal pivot to be concentric with the external cone on the head. Don't have one of those. The lathe could smooth out the ripples in the cone surface too. But then there is the frame, whose job it is to land the wheel perpendicularly on the cone - but it just had to much slop in it to do the job properly. Gave up on it. The steel ball just replaces that whole head unit. Here is the last tire change I did with all the things I have learned over the last couple of years th-cam.com/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/w-d-xo.html at 11:44 you can see the centric ring in the wheel hub pilot. It was a tight fit and needed care taking it out, seeing it is only plastic. Tires and balance are fine per the driver.

@@richbinaz I actually tried both. Initially I purchased a bubble balancer from Harbor Freight and it couldn't do anything gray garden accuracy. It was impossible to Center the wheel on the Harbor Freight bubble balancer and have it all lined up so it was repeatable each time. Each time I would place it on or rotate the wheel on the bubble balancer it would give wide ranges of different weights being needed in different places each time that was far from accurate. I spent days of wasted time trying to think through what could solve that and came to the same resolution as you that I needed to leave in order to machine a perfect Center and balance the whole cone to be accurate for it to work whatsoever and then even after that play sing the wheel on the bubble balancer was never accurate and still would give varying degrees of weight depending on how one placed the tire on the bubble bouncer. Wasted many days trying to make that thing work along with money. Actually had the same idea like 10 years ago with a big steel ball placed in the round hub center and that was much more accurate and precise regarding centering the wheel on the balancing point. The issue I ran into long ago though with that balancer is I was having difficulty finding a repeatable flat surface to balance the ball on so that the balancer would have accurate results that can be repeatable. I love your wooden stand and steel plate along with self-leveling laser and add adjustments for making the the surface flat with the level. I will have to revisit my initial start on this project from years ago and see if I can find the steel ball I purchased a decade ago. I enjoyed watching your previous attempts as well with different hubs for vertical balancing and that seemed to also work decently well and didn't need the super flat level surface to be accurate. All in all your videos were very intriguing and insightful and I thank you for spurring me to revisit this project again. Thank you

I think I have 9 or 10 episodes like this. Started getting success only near the end

@@richbinaz that is amazing how long it took the pump to finally stop,,,hummm I finally heard what you said and yes switching to reserve could be allowing to get more fuel if the other screen or strainer is stopped up, im sure you took the fuel cock off and checked both of them

My bike never made all that fuel pump noise either. It's part of a safety feature designed into the bike for USA models. I had to make it do that so I could get the carbs filled after the fuel had evaporated in the summer heat here in AZ. Or in this case... after I had serviced the carbs and they were empty. Otherwise the ECU only gives the pump permission to run when it receives a signal that a spark has been sent to the spark plugs. Here are two videos that show how I did that... th-cam.com/video/faNsKfr0IEo/w-d-xo.html a powerpoint conversion slowing slides every 5 seconds - and th-cam.com/video/w9WVH0HIG6M/w-d-xo.html Actually being used The pump is the original and still works fine.

you are no doubt very book smart on yours Rich and again these bikes like mine and yours are very easy for the carbs to stop up on, if I were you Id start at ground zero and remove the tank and then take the fuel oulet off the bottom of it and put a gallon or so of gas in and and slosh it around and then poor it into a white or light colored 5 gl bucket and see what you get, if theres any grit and gime at all than your carbs are stopping back up, it is amazing how easy they are to stop up, when i realized this fact on mine is when I bought multi high dollar buckets of cleaner and started the 2 year process of letting the tank soak, yours of course want take that long since it is a mcuh better amd newer looking bike , the tank has to be rust free brother, anyway I don't know if you seen my video but I posted one yesterday and each day when I get through riding I "T" into a outlet near the carbs and run it 4 to 5 minutes while being fed from a 2 gl bucket of fresh gas with carb cleaner added, after all the cleaning ive done on my gas tank I still don't trust that there is no tiny tiny rust particles still in the tank, I tried and found another tank on Ebay in almost new condition but was sold before I could buy it, anyway, I know its hard but Id make sure and even feed it gas from a seperate container all together for a few days after doing the carbs again, I even considered buying saddle bags to install a fuel tank in and maybe will still do that someday, and also I probably had 2 or 3 bad "new spark" plugs so look out there and if you have another exhaust pipe not getting hot try another spark plug first cause its hard to believe but I had that happen a couple times in process of doing mine, after and if you start over again leave the tank off and feed from a seperate 2 or 3 gl tank which will make checking a particular spark plug easier if not heating up, its a amzing how often you can get a bad plug among new ones, I start out making sure the gas tank is clean and add new pump and then go from there man.

@@richbinaz even near microscopic particles of rust will eventually stop a carburator up, while you have a the tank valve off make sure the screen covering each outlet is solid with no rips or tare and replace them if you can find them, hard to find

@@snowmangsx1100 One of the 2 tank filters was falling apart, so I removed it. They are hard to come by as they have been discontinued. There is a filter in the tee going into the carb fuel rail. That will have to do

@@richbinaz I bought a separate drain cock assembly for a gas tank that came with a new one and it wasn't but about $8, im trying to cut failure down to a bare minimum and so far other than putting the gallon of chevron 93 octane in it I have had no problems all summer long, and I still connect to the T after each time I ride it and pump fresh guaranteed clean gas through it each day, im taking no chances sir.

Not a mechanic by trade Rick, just had to deal with these things for a long time. During this long drawn out fault finding session (lasted for months) I'm just trying to find out what is wrong this time - as it is different to all the times before, which were due to the carbs flooding for one reason or another. Occasionally it would be plugged idle jets (they are too small) or the floats have failed, the o-rings were bad etc.

Hi. I ended up rebuilding the carbs multiple times, went down a lot of dead ends. Needed more than just a rebuild kit. Ended up creating a playlist - just don't listen to the starter cranking!! th-cam.com/play/PLWHom5FLIC6t5rmC7iBQ4wjdpeX2Ji4z0.html There should be one more video to come, but I'm waiting for the heat to subside in PHX before I take it out for a proof run. The upcoming video will be about the choke valves allowing fuel to pass, without even being open. Worst carbs ever, they have always been a problem.

@@richbinaz you have a beautiful classic bike there and I adore mine, although pretty mine is not as pretty to look at as yours by no means but Im telling you you would fall in love with the way it runs, idles like a baby and you truly do not even have to choke it unless it is freezing cold which this past winter i kept it cranked and did have to slightly choke it if the temp was below 40 degree's,,,,,, let me ask this or let me tell you this, the next time you take the carbs off have them totally submerged with fresh clean gas and in a container that you can look down the inlet side of the carbs, while submerged take your finger and lift up each tube and feel are there any pressure there and when you release them if they slide back down not slow but slowly, if they have no resistance either way then you have a blow diagram and i don't think they make them anymore, I got lucky with mine and they were still totally intact, they are also a couple of jet screws that go in very hard to find places and it took my buddy at the Honda shop to point them out,, if the diagrams check out ok and if you will totally disassemble the carbs,,turn each jet all the way in and count the turns and then when you replace them turn them to the same amount outward,, I did not take each individual carb loose from each other but I had a container they all fit down in and then i bought 2 gallons of "kim dip" at $40 per gallon, I let them soak 2 or 3 days and then with high pressure air I blew out everything opening I could find and even ran a torch tip cleaner ( you know the round toothpick looking cleaners) through each opening I could find and made sure nothing was stopped up, I reassembled them using what the kit furnished which was a good bit but not the main jet which I had to reluctantly reused, anyway all I had to do was turn the idle down on it but it cranked almost the first 3 or 4 times it turned and truly runs like a brand new motorcycle, I wish I had your carbs in hand so i could look at them and check them cause your going to pay $1200 dollars for a shop to do it, good luck buddy and let me know about the upper diagram's ok, its best not to remove them unless you feel its needed,,, also I have bought a couple extra carb kits for it amd the same as the first cause some day in the future thay may not be available anymore,,,Rick Jasper Alabama

@@snowmangsx1100 Thanks for the reply. I bought the bike back in '93 from a dealer In Tucson, who was using it as a demo model. It's a '91 version & had 60 miles on the clock. So I have had it quite a long time. The diaphragms are still good on the bike, I bought a new one just to check and there was no difference in their operation. There is actually quite a good source of carb parts here store.moto-lab.com/bst36-fuel-system-parts?bst36_mmy=901 Not all are parts are available anymore and in the playlist you see me changing out the needle jets with a Kit from Dynojet. That cured a lot of the flooding problems. The Choke on these carbs is interesting in that it adds it's own separate amount of fuel and air for starting. For example, if the engine was not firing because the mixture was too rich - opening the choke adds enough air to bring the mixture back into the range where it will fire... Very odd, and that is what was happening to my bike.

@@richbinaz Im beginning to think I got lucky with mine, also the kits do include the needle and seat which should have corrected the floats over flowing, you know the seats are held in by a o ring also and thats what makes me think the floats are acting up since each time you cranked it it took the pump a long time to settle down and stop pumping gas, so by taking the pump that long to stop clicking and if the bowls were empty where did that gas go ? I tested mine before I put them back on with air by simply turning the carbs upside down and see if that stopped airflow, there is a few things you can do to kindve assure yourself or cut failure down a little more of a minimum but still always taking a chance, also if you were able to get those carbs off and then put them back on then you are a pretty good mechanic.

@@richbinaz there just very very very easy to stop up brother, make sure that tank is clean as a pin

You are probably right, but I didn't want to stress the plastic parts and wanted to make sure I had enough room to do everything that would be needed.

Maybe it's not setup right. I tried backing up and stopping but maybe the auto adjuster isn't working. I wish they were calipers 😂

I also replaced the wheel bearing at the same time. It's that back left one on the driver's side

Crunching is not a good noise. When you put new shoes in, did you put new drums on also? The drums do wear down and if they have a wear ridge on the inside or outside, that can cause noise. Drums from Rockauto are reasonably priced

@@thewalkingrob8840 Backing up or using the handbrake does not make the auto adjuster work. Applying the foot brake does. However, I'm not convinced that the auto adjusters work. I usually have to adjust the gap by hand. This video is for a corolla, but the brakes work the same way th-cam.com/video/hzZ7qfZ4u8U/w-d-xo.html

@@thewalkingrob8840 That probably didn't fix the noise?

Great! It is a good way to balance a wheel - provided the hub spins easily. No need to worry about where the wheel CG is located - except for placement of weights. I ended up with a slightly different method, as my preferred method, which works on multiple pilots and stud patterns. Shows up in this video, th-cam.com/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/w-d-xo.html

Can't say. I didn't know Triumph was making a 400 single. Had a look on line for parts diagrams and couldn't find any, so I can't answer your question

Thanks for the comment...Yes you can But as I found out when changing the base materials from soft to hard, the harder the Base and ball materials the better. Which is why I ended up using a 2.5 inch steel ball on a steel plate (+hub centric rings when needed). In the text under this video there is a link to Kia soul tire change. It shows almost everything I've learned during this long learning experience.

That is inconvenient. At 2:47 in the video, just to the right of where it says "Mirror View", you can see the reflected alignment mark in the mirror, which is quite well hidden otherwise. Hopefully your XSR has that. 2:55 is a good time index too. The paint mark is quite wide and it has moved about 1/2 the width of the thin part of the mark. You can overdo the turning and to be honest, I was watching the numbers on the speedo, not the mark when turning it. Best bet if you don't have a mark, is to scribe one at the starting position and make movements relative to that mark. At least you should be able to return it to the stock position if it starts doing silly things. Good luck

Thanks for the comments. Watch out for those leaf style lock nuts - they strip threads if not lubed

Thanks... The bar is cheap to make too. One of the problems I have is, I've had a knee replacement (why I'm wearing knee pads) It didn't turn out so well, so doing stuff on the floor is out for me. I have seen the "walking on the tire method" in video's, but if it suddenly pops on - like it did in the video, that would be me going for a tumble. I could have put the tool bar in as well, but sometimes the height of the wood hits the second bead, so the tire lever helps. Here I am playing with a silverado 1500 tire. It wouldn't push on either. th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html

Good luck. We got stuck behind a truck hauling a flatbed with quite a few of those giant 1000lb open bags of sand on the back. It was a sand storm. Probably peeled paint off as well.

Well, apparently it is meant to flutter. (Tech answer) Mikuni drilled a couple of big holes in the slide base allowing the vacuum above the diaphragm to build and drop quickly. Some people have done something like this on other carbs as a tuning mod, but Mikuni did it on this one as standard. The result is... The slide flutters like mad at any speed above idle. This causes the needle to rise and fall rapidly thru the needle jet and surprise surprise, wears out the needle jet. They may look round, but they are too big and drown the engine with fuel. There are no more original parts left to be had, so I installed a jet kit from Dynojet. This seemed to fix the over rich fueling issue, but then I discovered another issue with the choke valves not seating properly... Oh I never posted that discovery and fix. Now it's just too hot to go test it here in PHX. I did one run after the choke fix and it seems a bit better. There is some hope.

With the wooden arm + duckbill tool, there is a slight overturning moment (torque) when running the duckbill around the rim. Your setup with the "lucid autoworks" style design eliminates that moment, so stick with it. I was going for something cheap that anyone with basic woodworking tools could make. I already had the screws, glue and saws, so the only expense was the duckbill and a 2x4. The duckbill slides nicely around alloy rims without scratching too. The laser wheel balancer is my preferred method now, although I can break out a vertical balancer if the hub fits the wheel. You could use the "self levelling laser" on tires in addition to the bubble balancer. Just need a tripod to go with it. The laser is really good at throwing a level line. I think it was designed for people installing wallboard and the like. It beeps when it is outside it's level tolerance zone. I put links into the text under this video if you are interested

I did catch a previous sunset launch from a park, so no trees. th-cam.com/video/mYXjolX71uk/w-d-xo.html Took me while to realize that the gap in the vapor trail was the end of the booster stage and the start of the second stage. This one catches the booster entry burn at about 6:03. The landing burn would be over the horizon. It's amazing how big the exhaust plume is for being 500 miles away

They are??? Good for those people!!! 'cos it works 😁😁😁 and I don't have to go to a tire dealer. I switched the 80mm Crystal ball for a 2.5 inch steel ball with a few plastic hub centric rings and I can do many different wheel hubs now. Corolla to Silverado 1500. Now where is that crystal ball. The feng shui seems to be off a little...

This is my preferred method for wheel balancing now. The 2 1/2 inch steel ball along with hub centric rings is able to cover most of the hub sizes. There are cases where the wheel spokes / hub pilot are closer to the center, they will likely be unstable. Then I would use a vertical method like this one th-cam.com/video/du5cTMqpIhY/w-d-xo.html Since then, I've heard that trailer hubs don't have grease seals, so they should work with no mods. I have not tried to find one.

@@richbinaz cool, good job

Wow, they got expensive. Glad it helped!!

Yes it can. I ended up using a steel electrical cover plate along with a steel ball as they are much less likely to break with heavy tires. th-cam.com/video/gGv5MUxbQ3c/w-d-xo.html Silverado 1500 tires 75 lbs It is important for the surface to be FLAT and LEVEL. th-cam.com/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/w-d-xo.html

Just checked and it's 1/2" ID Vinyl. Probably got it from Ace Hardware. They have rolls on the wall and you can buy it by the foot. I see they changed the funnel design, mine has a cap to keep dust out of the top when in storage.

@@richbinaz Thanks! Just got some. Weirdly that funnel is only $7 at oreillys or autozone but $12+ on amazon, so just went to the physical store. Another nice thing I just noticed is that it has a metal screen/filter inside it. I have accidentally seen little bits of debris or even a leaf get kicked up and fall into my funnels before, so that'll help.

Thanks, it was fun and needed to be done.

Excellent video how much antifreeze did you end up using ? Just wondering how much should I expect to put into the radiator? Should 1 container be enough to fill the reservoir and the radiator or 2. Thanks much.

@@JoseRivera-jw2uj I don't remember the exact amount, sorry. Probably around 1 gallon. I did get the Toyota concentrate and split it 50/50 with distilled water. I keep the old 50/50 bottle around for just such a purpose.

Thanks buddy appreciate the video helps out big time.

@@JoseRivera-jw2uj Just spotted this video - This guy had a hose failure at 250K & 15-20 years th-cam.com/video/UOR2n0fN0G8/w-d-xo.html