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Just think of how much easier it would've been if you had just taken off the shift knob and pulled the entire piece up & off; rather than taken off 10 to 12 fiddly screws. Also, you could have taken the choke knob off and threaded the cables through, tightened the choke electrical connector on, and finally brought the cable into the dash from behind. Also your fast idle lever is not centered on the screwhead that it rides on.

Washer bottle did the same pinched the bracket til it wedge's and holds it tight , yes choke cable is fiddly and luckily your warning light switch works took me quite a while , thanks for sharing

All that for a choke cable !!!! I don't think you give yourself enough credit, great job.

I bought the rimmers replacement bottle and bracket. I noted it wasn't a snug fit! So I just pinched the bracket in the vice to make it more secure. Also keeping the bottle topped up increases the weight init, so far no problems cheers

Great job one of the reason's I replaced with edelbrock carb love the washer bottle

Hello I have a stag in the same coulour. If I didn't know it better, I would say, this is my stag 😂 I bought it last month from a man in Unna. Mine is also from 72. But he, I named him Chester, has also seats from the M 2. Maybe we can text per mail? Best wishes Frank from Germany

At 120 ft/lbs, pretty hard to overtighten, but depends how much "fitters feel" you have. The problem is you may have already overstressed that tapered section of the axle, but no way of knowing, time will tell. I have had one break, see below. The biggest thing with these hubs is breaking that taper to get the flange off for rebuilds/bearing or seal maint, and often after being there for 50 years, that taper will take hold, and age/corrosion etc - often they will break before they let go. People say "Oh, you are using the wrong puller." If they are stuck, they are stuck. I formerly had every mech method under the sun in a heavy fitting workshop, and some hubs come apart, some don't. Heat/presses/hydraulic pullers...... doesn't matter. I have rebuilt a dozen hubs, disassembled probably twice that to get them apart for parts. They are set up with collapsible spacers, but I don't believe in them for wheels. Collapsible spacers are passable for diffs, (Stags used solid in early diffs, collapsible in later) but I don't like them for wheel hubs. I decent sideways knock from a pothole will crush a collapsible spacer in a hub. When I first got my Stag 31 years ago, it was to be my only car, and I did a lot of miles in it. The first time I drove it home for Xmas (Melbourne to Perth, 3500 kms), day after I got there, I got to the end of the street where I was staying, stopped at the stop sign. Went to take off, "BANG", and then a loud rattling noise. I thought I had blown up the diff, so walked down to relo's place, got them to tow me. As soon as car started to move, back wheel fell off. Had to get the car "home" on a tilt tray. What had happened was that the axle had snapped halfway up the taper, so wheel just fell off. Luckily it came off then at walking pace, rather than the previous day doing 130 kmh through the desert on the open highway. Over the next ten years, I got sick of bearing failures on "professionally rebuilt hubs" where they would last from 4 to 6,000 kms. The bearings in there are HUGE, that is the small bearing is the same size as the large one on the front hubs, and the large bearing in the rear is far bigger than that again, so if set up correctly, they should never fail. But the collapsible spacer in the kits are like a piece of tin. I used to carry an old factory made half shaft (spline to axle flange, fits easily under boot floor, and just undo 6 bolts, old axle slides out) under the boot floor on interstate trips (drove Melb/Perth 7 times, always at Xmas, our summer), and it had a slight whine, but went forever. That would go in whenever a "recon hub" failed. And they always did, so it went in a few times until I could get a recon hub. Only ever had to use it on an interstate trip once, 1,000 kms from Perth. I could feel the rear wandering. Axle change takes about 20 minutes. When I questioned the 4 to 6,000 kms, supplier said "No one else has had a problem" (because they use them in show cars that do 500 kms a year) and "it's an old car, so...." Honestly, you mean that when someone bought a Triumph 2000 sedan new as a family car, it was "normal to change wheel bearings every 5,000 kms???" Pfft. So I hand fit some solid spacers. I made a "too big" one as a jig, and then assemble. Check end float, then you know what clearance should be/ calculate and make a solid spacer to length to get that clearance, or spacer and shim. While my car does less miles than it used to (was only car from 93 to 99, then shared daily duties with Dol Sprint; Sprint retired 2012, Stag then shares with "newish" 2007 car) it still gets used regularly, but no interstate trips anymore. I rebuilt 3 hubs with solid spacers, and fitted 2, one held as a spare. That was about 20 years ago............................. first two are still in there, spare is in garage somewhere. That works for me.

i would have replaced the water pump ( or at least a refurbish with the impellor machined flat ).

Not sure if it's easier to replace the bolts with studs and nuts ?

Hi there, really enjoy your videos, one question, your hydraulic jacks, where did you get them from, make and price if that’s ok, they look very useful Thank you

Did u upgrade the water pump? Lots of engines ruined because of lack of circulation

Gee, even rusty brackets and corrosion on alternator, you must be in the UK

Good job.

Great video of one of my favourite areas of Scotland. Wonder if my Stag would make the trip from Northants. Blackberry whisky sounds amazing

Run the brush in the threads to unscrew the thread, u just push the dirt down in the hole

U have beautifully polished valve covers !!!! And utterly rusty bolts I wouldn't even deign to b thrown in the bin...

I've had that inlet manifold off a zillion times in the 31 years/over 300,000 kms I have had my car. I have never had a problem with those front water passges. The have little flow, they are only a "highest point" air bleed. All the real flow is through the rear water passage. Rather than just clean the threads in the head, bite the bullet and fit heli coils. Obviously be very careful re depth. I did mine first year I had it, never regret it, it makes it so much easier, and you'll never have that "last bolt turns too easily/stripped". Like the bloke who invented the rear view mirror. Since that day, he has never looked back. :-)

Good job well done, Hope all goes well now. Bob

you can't beat Trevor and the team at Faversham Classics

Well done mate 😊

Any chance looking at wiper motor speeds and auto parking ? Richard Warren

Jiggle pin should be at the top of the stat, not down the bottom. 🙂 I have never had the Thermostat housing bolts snap off (or even be tight) and have a few inlet manifolds here, the ridiculous head studs are the worst ones for that. As far as stat housing, on mine I don't have the hot air intake duct (pointless here, it doesn't get cold enough), so I have had (for 30 years) a Ford small block V8 stat housing, as it allows the use of a straight (Gates) hose that is very common here. Keep it simple. Early on I also put helicoils into all 12 of the inlet manifold bolts mating threads in the heads. As the manifold lines up, it often puts side loading on the threads, and soft alloy easy to strip or damage. ALWAYS the last one. Wheras SS helicoils make them impossible to damage/far better piece of mind/ a lot more secure. I have stripped half a dozen Stag engines, (and always maintained mine) and mine initially (31 years ago, I bought mine Feb 1993) took a week with injecting penetrene etc down the sides of the head studs, let it sit/lock nuts to get them out. None snapped off luckily. They are a ridiculous idea, they have a ridiculously optimistic "screwdriver slot" in the end which is only good for assembly. There are various locking tools, but if they are stuck, none work. There are jigs for hydraulic jacks that pull the heads off over the studs etc etc etc. The usual "get heavy with them" is to weld nuts on, then get them off, but they can snap. I had to cut one as it was stuck for good, but that head was corroded beyond usable, just wanted the block and the fittings from the head. The second my studs were out, I never used them ever again. I went and bought high tensile socket head (allen) bolts, $5 each in 1993. Best 50 bucks I ever spent. In the 31 years and 330,000 km since, the socket head bolts ALWAYS come out easily, it just isn't an issue. The factory should have done that. Why keep the head studs when they CAN be a problem (usually ARE), when you can use headed bolts that NEVER are??? I would never put a torch anywhere near an assembled engine like that. That open flame near flammable stuff around it............ not a good idea to me. What I WOULD have tried was to stick arc welder earth to manifold, tap my arc welder electrode on the end of the stud and have it tac to it............. get very hot - disconnect the earth strap. If that didn't loosen it, then I would remove the inlet manifold. Put the stud into my enormous Dawn bench vise, and then just "unscrew the manifold from the stud". I have never known that to fail with things of that size. Maybe try that "stud in the vice" before you go to the "shop" seeing you have the manifold out anyway. Good luck.

I Remember working on stags years ago they notorious for water problems, the worst thing was the head gaskets. You have to take all the head stud’s out of the block before you can get the head off not easy at all. Your bolt is quite easy,you should try tapping the end with a hammer drill out the middle with easy outs should come out,plenty of heat and shocking the bolt needs hitting harder and sharp blows .

my god this is pathetic, get someone that knows what there doing, because your clueless

WD40 is NOT an ease out product. A 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid is best. Also it's not sheered, it's sheared. The clamp on your carburettor overflow is NOT the correct type for a fuel hose.

You need to heat the bolt - not the housing. And heat it to read hot. It's expansion is what will free it. Welding a nut on also heats the bolt. Using a center punch on a broken bolt does not usually give you a central hole. Use a die grinder tool in a Dremel (or similar) to give a good central landing spot for your drill. Easy to fine tune. The size extractor you were trying to use would just have broken off if it had actually threaded. If you can get a central small drill through the bolt then drill with largest size that does not destroy threads. And go right through the bolt - this weakens the hold. Will then extract easily - with the bigger extractor. Make sure you have a good quality extractor set - cheap ones are not even good as paper weights.

You could eat off that engine bay! 👍

You should have avoided the drill, and put more heat on the casing, then quench with cold water. Reapply the heat then try again with the mole grips. If that doesn't work, weld a nut to the stud with a mig welder. The heat from the mig and a bit of torque should move it. Reassemble using stainless studs with copper grease. Not bolts.

good grief , thats as easy as stud removal ever gets ,,, 1 your using the wrong part of the torch flame 2 cut a hole in a bit of plate and let the stud stick through , then heat it , not warm it , 3 let it cool and oil it , repeat twice , third time try turning the stud out with the vise grips ,,, failing that a drop of weld from a stick welder would get the heat up , its simply not warm enough.the heat and cool cycle expands the stud then relaxes it , this breaks the rust down , all it takes is practice and patience.

Instead of easing oil or WD40 try a 50/50 mixture of ATF & acetone. There's a high risk of melting the alloy with too much heat.

I bought an induction heating device for this problem. Safer than gas for tight access like this. Postet this before you get the gas out!

If there's enough thread left on the bolt? Try locking 2 nuts together.

Hi boys at Faversham will get you going again was nice to drive my stag yesterday down in Hythe

Good effort Sir. I'm struggling with the distributor being stuck solid on my Stag so know the pain.

31 years with a Stag, 330,000 kms, and have removed the block drain plugs only once, when I had the engine out. . I usually flush without removing them. Remove the thermostat housing, remove thermostat, and there are enough hoses you can flush from either end to get everything old out. Threads lubricated whenever I strip anything, so no horrors on mine removing bolts. Everyone "what about the silt/dirt/flakes??" When I HAVE removed plugs, nothing came out except fluid, so...... Obviously with heads off can suck water out of block galleries with syringes if doing any major work. Again, no deposits in there. I am very lucky here in that our water is very "soft", so very little minerals in it. So a little bit remaining is no drama. I always use "concentrate", so use distilled water anyway, but after flush and then blowing out hoses from either end, gets enough flush water out. First time I undo inlet manifold, make all threads on heads for manifold helicoils. The soft ally is just a hassle/helicoils means 30 odd years, never a crossed thread. simple to do. I have had my fair share removing those ridiculous head studs. Screwdriver slots to undo them? Pfft, dreamers. I have had "junk/spares" engines that they just would not come off, but have managed to get most off. First time I removed mine (took a week, penetrene down stud shafts/welded nuts onto some of the studs) I replaced the stupid studs with high tensile socket head bolts. A smear of never seize, and my heads have always come off easily. It is the best money you will ever spend on a Stag or TR7/Dolomite. I have never had that air lock thing. Always use a "jiggle pin" stat, and squeeze the top rad hose to suck it through the jiggle pin.

You should really flush the block and radiator separately. With your method any sediment from the block will now be in the radiator. You have just flushed any muck from the block into the radiator, it will either stay there or go back into the block when you run the engine.

Hi there. Having had a Stag way back & fully rebuilding a poorly engine I watched your video with interest. At present still gullible I am restoring a TVR Chimaera 450 on my channel. I digress. Luckily i have a fully equiped machine shop so would take off the thermostat housing & set it up on the milling machine. Then using the digital readout , find exact centre of the broken bolt. Then creap up in small sizes drill out the broken stud. Using reverse flute drills. Then when the metal gets weaker with size the stud will extract itself. Another way is with stud extractors, but not had 100% success with that method. I take it you do not have the equipment to do this job. But you should have a machine shop near you that will easily do the task for you. Hope it all works out. Given you a sub. Steve.

Hi just found your great channel. Bought a MK II last autumn and slowly going through the car as very limited service history. Generally the car is in very good condition. Done plugs, set points, changed air filter and repainted housing. The near side clip is a nightmare to get back on! Oil change next so your video was very timely. Done rear brakes, now on front brakes. Callipers seem to be seized so replacing with new. Your rocker covers look amazing, are they new or what? Hardly driven the car yet as brakes were so poor, I now know why. All the best Helen in Nottingham.

Take a ride down to the Greatstone Fish bar, amazing food, and the Boathouse fisheries at St Marys Bay does fish and chips to order. just a happy customer!!

Nice job and a good result. Good luck with the Grandson working on the Stag, I've done this with my 14 year old Grandson, must get them up to speed to take the classic's on when I can't drive any more!!!! All the best Bob

Good luck with that bolt. It's happened to all of us 👍

Note that an 11/16 socket is exactly the right size to remove the plug in the bottom of the float chamber. Just push it down over the locking lugs, it pushes them all in evenly and you can pull the plug out (a flat bladed screwdriver also helps if the O ring is a bit sticky).

Re: the float heights - I believe from other videos that these are set ignoring the thickness of the gasket. And no-one seems to consider the fact that the carbs. are mounted on a slope, so only the part of the float furthest from the pivot has any effect on the level of petrol in the float chamber.

My heart goes out to you, I've been here before with similar issues, the heart sinks. Take your time, it won't be a quick job sadly.

That sound is awesome. ❤❤❤

Real. Life experience, happened to me too. , better at home than on the A38 , or any layby ,

Happened to me. Ended up fitting new inlet, as I tried to drill it out still fitted and messed up.I would recommend that you remove inlet to drill it out.

Fantastic, I’ve loaded my Stag with stuff before, but you win hands down this time. I think yours is the Tardis!!!! Well done that man. All the best Bob

Love the aerial footage. Never seen your stag with the hardtop on. Some great locations to open up a stag. Cheers

That’s a great idea having a drone some lovely shots of the Stag and surrounding areas. Nice new video plan look forward to more.Bob