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The product listed below is the least expensive option. We also sell blocks in 10 packs and kits that have 2 of each color. intconnector.com/collections/combiners/products/any-color-dinkle-power-distribution-dk4n-10-gang-box-connector-din-rail-terminal-blocks-10-22-awg-30-amp-600-volt-solar-combiner-1?variant=40966841598104

Here is a kit that allows you to pick the color assortment for 20 blocks plus accessories. intconnector.com/products/pick-color-din-rail-terminal-block-kit-dinkle-20-dk4n-10-awg-gauge-30a-600v-ground-dk4n-pe-jumper-dss4n-10p-end-covers-end-brackets?variant=40966816202904

The "mini" option is for 15mm DIN rail. It is the DK2.5S. intconnector.com/products/dinkle-dk2-5s-mini-din-rail-terminal-block-screw-type-ul-300v-20a-12-22awg-15mm-rail-pack-of-100?variant=40966797787288

If you buy this kit, you can pick out whatever color combination that you want. intconnector.com/products/pick-color-din-rail-terminal-block-kit-dinkle-20-dk4n-10-awg-gauge-30a-600v-ground-dk4n-pe-jumper-dss4n-10p-end-covers-end-brackets?variant=40966816202904

I am not familiar with the relays you purchased, but to connect or distribute a negative through our blocks, you will have to bring in a wire to the elevator cage connection. This would allow you to then use jumpers to distribute this connection through multiple blocks. You mentioned a ground. The only other way to make a connection with a ground is to have the rail grounded and purchase our ground blocks that connect through the DIN rail with metal feet. These part numbers are Dinkle DK2.5N-PE, DK4N-PE, DK6N-PE, DK10N-PE, etc.

They hold industrial controls on DIN rails.

That is a great idea. Thank you so much. I will look into it.

I will try to make more videos with wires. Ferrules are not necessary. Some people like to use them out of habit but they are not needed. Thanks!

We can make a kit for you, no problem at all. So, you are look for a 30 amp block that has 4 connections all in common. Is that correct?

We sell jumpers in different sizes from 2-pole to 10-pole. That way, they are fully insulated. You can cut them down to size with cutting pliers, but keep in mind that this can affect the finger safety. I also recommend flipping those cut ends away from each other.

You can cut the jumper. Many of our customers cut the jumper and flip it around so the cut sides are not close to each other. Keep in mind, this can affect the finger safety of the block.

I appreciate you feedback. Thank you very much!

Following up of R. Davies question, If only need to jumper 2 terminal blocks together so I can make my solar panels in parallel connection, Its OK to "break" or "cut" the jumpers to be able to jumper 2 terminal blocks together - Correct?

So I watched the video again and it was mentioned that the jumper can be cut. Any particular tool? A sharp knife or cutter work ok?

@@noelherrera3490 Your basic diagonal wire cutter will cut it. However the best thing is a thinner blade like lineman snips. You want to get as close to the "leg" of the jumper. Or you will have bar sticking out with the metal exposed. Whenever I had to do this I would try and get that part that sticks out and shave/tim it off. When I have it with me I use liquid Electrical tape. As an added measure I make sure to Not have any two cut ends facing each other.

Absolutely. You can pry the jumper out with a flat head screwdriver. You can loosen the two screws of the end brackets (SS2) and pop the foot off the rail. Then, the blocks pop off the same way.

Absolutely! Thank you. www.dinrailterminalblocks.com

Thank you!