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He isn't removing metal, thats all old oil/dirt

@@paulschwartze8924 Oh - I thought he was adding hole - I have seen people add a bunch of holes, and that does mess with balance.

An inline 4 cylinder has perfect primary balance. As long as you remove the same amount of weight from each piston, the balance isn't affected. 😎

It's good as long as surfaces are well prepared, flat and new bolts used. Mine is now holding 1 bar of boost just fine on same engine from video now

Hej, niczym bo stosowałem w tym silniku blok i tłoki z durateca. Blok Forda nie ma magistrali do zasilania VVT a tłoki nie mają podcięć pod zawory, nie było eiec jsk vvt odpalić. Taki eksperyment 😉

Thats the slave indeed. The master is on top

They're very similar but there are very few differences. H beam rods fits both but the pistons on these won't work with aftermarket rods anyways due push fit piston pin design.

Yes exactly! I did exactly that but described wrong. You're right, nicely spotted 👌

Im very sorry but have no experience with these to advise anything

Cześć! Turbi się, znaczy już nawet się stroi 🫣 ale nie mam przez to totalnie czasu na robienie filmów. Postaram się to nadrobić!

Thank you! I will be totally honest, it was my first ever Duratec engine I've been through (I did BMWs only for past 10 years), and so I was learning on it here. As of today I've been through 3 of these, and the one from video being currently boosted with gt2871, however it did great job and rev up to 8k with no tiny hiccups over this year being N/A. I do have two MZRs ready for rebuildanx these will be where Im going to put all goodness available on the market. Hopefully will be able to get more time for videoing and editing as I do now, to share it with you here too

It's always needed! I've done that off camera and stated my measurements in the end of previous video, sorry if that's confusing

@@ColdieGarage oh, gotcha! Thanks for the info. Are you able to use the same bolts twice?

@@davidleal923 crankshaft casing bolts have stretch limits and must be checked and measured before installation a shown on video, I've used old ones but in the toleration and been fine. I had feedback about using ARP bolts here as they're applying higher torque and force at the crank crate and might interfere with the bearing clearances, that's why I've remained with OEM bolt there.

Thank you! Well I would send it away just to save myself time also having not big machining tools background and doing everything by hand you have to put much more work into checking everything few times and adding corrections. There are three ways of setting valve gaps there, one is getting lifter in right size, other is skimming oversized lifter, or skimming the valve itself.

From the Ford manuals mate

Wszystkie te silniki to jedna rodzina więc nie sugeruj się opisem przy zakupie , ARP 251-6202, pozdrawiam 😉

@@ColdieGarage a do panewek głównych?

I'm now over 2k miles on that engine, including two heavy trackdays and have zero issues so far. I'm going to test them even further with boost over winter.

Hello. Good job ! I will do it the same. What is the New ring number parts please?

Tak, aż tak widać? 😁

Haha you got me mate 😂 what happens on the track stay on the track especially when adrenaline rises, no offences made just good memories and lot of fun! How was your day there mate?

And the yellow touring was my mates, we've been there together that day and I waved as he's spit flames on me at every gear change 😂 1:22

@@ColdieGarage Great day with fantastic weather although when these madmen in the beemers come up behind you and blip the throttle and their engine barks like a dog ! You realise the the wee MX5 is severely underpowered 183.5 bhp at the flywheel, although it does not detract from the enjoyment and gets the adrenaline flowing.

I must disagree here, all these bearings being hold in place by the torque of the rod bolt crushing the bearing into the bore of the rod, regardless they're with tangs or not. Tangs on these are only for correct orientation during instalation, in case of bearings without tangs like in my video here bearings must be placed and spaced accordingly to manual values, that's the only difference. Duratec is Mazda design so kinda "import" motor too. I did work at Nissan's RBs and VQs and SRs, all these have tangs, and all of them spun bearings even sooner than Duratecs. Bearings does wear only in poorly maintained or extremely abused engines where oil and it's pressure doesn't do it's job anymore. In properly built and working motor there is no physical contact between crank and rod bearings, if it is there is nothing that can stop failure especially tangs on bearings.

Probably doesn't really even make downforce

Can't see why not, it's not something unusual and seen it being done many times in other brands, so the Mazda did same in later facelifted engine. I'm going to see over the winter how these will handle boost, however now, everything is sweet so far 👌

I can make one when got free minute, sure thing! You mean parts list for entire engine build or just the timing job?

@ColdieGarage Everything that's required, if possible, do some items come in a kit, etc ?

Part list for the timing with link I've used, I'm not sponsored but I've been happy with all suppliers in here so can recommend. For the entire engine, I'm planning doing episode where I will do summary and total cost of rebuild, as I'm having bit of laugh seeing refurbished/rebuilt engines for £1k, where to do job properly you need to spend much more in the parts only. The full list 👇 Crank pulley Febi Bilstein www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334731672814?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yi1ojZncSxy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8HyVoAgvQga&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Camshaft bolts x2, genuine Mazda from Bofi bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/engine-fasteners/genuine-camshaft-pulley-bolt-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Crankshaft bolt genuine Mazda www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401728517358?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WpJywXikSIO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8HyVoAgvQga&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Ford Duratec timing kit, much cheaper with no Mazda price tag, i have VVT deleted so was fine for my 2.0, however if it goes at MZR engines i would highly advice to replace VVT gear at same time too. www.eurocarparts.com/p/fai-timing-chain-kit-352590060 Camshaft diamond washers X2 Genuine Mazda from Bofi bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/gaskets-seals/genuine-camshaft-pulley-friction-washer-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Crankshaft diamond washers x2 genuine Mazda from Bofi bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/gaskets-seals/genuine-crankshaft-friction-washer-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Crank pulley seal, i've bought full gasket set from Elring, however Bofi also sells them separately bofiracing.co.uk/servicing/engine/gaskets-seals/genuine-front-main-crankshaft-seal-for-mazda-mx-5-nc/ Dirko sealant, my personal preference, using it for years with no issues and it's grey so it looks nice and clean on w done, not like disgusting red 🤮 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184396370125?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lURu03rFT4e&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8HyVoAgvQga&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

@ColdieGarage fantastic, that's really helpful.

I would stick with the chart provided by your piston manufacturers. I have no experience in boosting Duratec yet to say what worked best for me, but on BMW where i ran Wiseco pistons I've gapped rings accordingly to their provided chart depending on application and level of boost. It's simply, cylinder bore x value provided for specific application in inches.

@@ColdieGarage thanks, I’ve gone with wossner for pistons, will follow the instructions they provided with the product in that case

Using factory cam gears there is not much to adjust I'm afraid. To have some play in timing you will need to install vernier pulleys or run VVT. You have enough room to loose cam gear bolt with just rocker cover off BTW. And last part coming out very soon, finishing car was my main priority in past few days, didn't have much time to work on videos

I've used 220 grit i believe, it's absolutely not the correct way of doing it but just for adding bit of roughness for new rings to seat faster worked well. I went with standard pistons, but they've measured very close to standard size. Piston rings for that particular engine was Hepotile 87.50mm, standard size for 2.0 Duratec, and I did still have to grind them slightly down to get them up to spec

@@ColdieGarage thank you for reply, cylinder 2 and 3 have 10-15psi whereas 1 and 4 were alot better, should I hone the cylinder's then measure with dial gauge or the other way round? Also, did you check/adjust valve clearances?