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I didn't prime and I'm here in Colorado. The priming you've done looks outstanding - but IMHO I think it's overkill.

Thanks for showing your work and thank you for the tipps. All the best. Chris

Thanks for the vids. Watch the EAA one hour long vid about the 916. He talks about the changes to the engine for longevity based on their inspection of the 915 engines. Based on what he says, I think it is highly unlikely that the TBO will be extended for the 915. $10K extra is a big hit, but it will payoff on resale (I think). My quick build 916 kit arrived in Torrance about two weeks ago. With builder's assist I should be flying by next May. Rick.

Some comments/questions: The “missing” pieces. Backordered? Or on the inventory as shipped but you didn’t receive? Discovered during inventory? I had a number of backordered parts during my build. But never a part shown as shipped that I didn’t receive. Some backordered parts I received somewhat quickly. Others not so much. There’s a lot of work you can do with the front fuselage section. It’s at least as much work as the tail you’re showing in the video. Maybe more. You're discovering exactly what I've mentioned before. Unlike the wing and empannage kits and KAI's, the fuselage KAI leaves a little to the imagination and doesn't have every rivet or detail. My kit has the coolant based heat exchanger on the inside for the heater. But I'm not installing the "spider" duct arrangement. By all accounts, doesn't work that great. I'm going to have only cool vent on the instrument panel and rear side wall. Then heat with new ducts to the front and back in the center console. Will use some 3D printed parts. Many are making this change. Maybe something you also may want to look at? There’s no question Sling kind of expects you to buy all the kits at once because you’re right there are some parts called out that are in different kits. But I didn’t order the FWF kit until after the fuselage. I had to do a couple workarounds and Cleco stuff temporarily until the FWF kit arrived. But it didn’t stop me from basically completing the fuselage. I ordered the fuselage, canopy, undercarriage, and upholstery (because of the lead time for the upholstery) at the same time. I wouldn’t have done it any differently. The canopy is a huge part of the fuselage build. Surprised you haven’t ordered. It will stop you much sooner than the FWF. I entertained the 916 for my build. But couldn’t get over the increased cost. Plus since I already had the 915 cowl, engine mount, etc. the added cost was more than just the engine. There’s no question the 916 is basically required for the high wing. The low wing performs very well with the 915. The 1200 TBO is an issue I guess. But as an experimental, you’re not locked into that. I assume you know that.

which size microstop did you get from panamerican? part number? Besides #40 which other bit sizes did you get?

Good day indeed. How was the order to delivery day and maybe the shipping day?

Fun with fuel caps. The fuel tank flanges are not keyed, so you can mount them in any orientation. The fuel cap is keyed to fit only 4 ways. So if you fit the fuel cap assembly with the flange only to keep things clean, we’ll check your orientation and make sure those notches are facing the front / back and to the sides of the tank and not sideways.

I just noticed Edward Hefter's TSi at 5:25. He is with The Airplane Factory in Torrance. Maybe he can organize a group for Air Venture for next year.

Nice progress. The best part of building the tanks is when they're done and successfully tested. 🤪 One hint. I see you have you're garage door open so you are getting ventilation. But the mfg does recommend a respirator. Can't hurt. Some not nice chemicals in that stuff.

Thanks very much for the video! Hope next year, the TSI numbers will be doubled.

The bolts, spacers, and eyebolts for the ailerons are easy to install into the completed assembly. There's a hole in the end rib to put the bolt in with an extension. Don't need to reach the other side since there are nut plates. I did mine that way and it was no big deal. I agree it's confusing they reference those parts in the wing KAI. But they are in the finishing kit and very straightforward. I'm a little surprised Sling didn't explain that when you ordered the parts. I'd recommend finishing the ailerons so you can get the entire wing assembly wrapped up. Two other things: Highly recommend gluing those strips to the underside of the wing spar before assembly. I used dots of JB Weld. Enough to hold them in place before the rivets are set. Makes life a lot easier putting that together. Finally, I've had zero issues with my Milwaukee gun pulling the large rivets, including 4.8 and SS. In fact I like it better than the air tool for the large rivets. I leave the 3.2 nozzle in my air riveter since those are the high volume ones. Agree it's faster although I don't know about 4x. 😀

Thank you for sharing this experience, how long wait was the order to shipment?

Hello chubby friend haha

加油👏

How important is it to epoxy the rivnuts? I see that you pretty much always epoxy rivnuts. I am looking for further knowledge on this.

Very cute! They do that typically to warn other squirrels of danger! Thanks for sharing! ❤🐿

Thanks for posting progress - I am far from starting a build, but gathering info on how to. I also run into this video recently posted - th-cam.com/video/hcgxCII6JpA/w-d-xo.html - and I am in between if to use prime painting inside or not.

Hi Greg did you prime with the Transtar 6183 that you mentioned in a previous video? Rattle can? Would you still recommend it for aircraft?

Beware of the barking squirrel. 😂

After comparing the two aircraft, despite the higher initial cost, I'm purchasing the Sling TSI first!

Nice videos. Thank you for putting then together. I see your internal parts are primed. What are you using for the primer? Is it rust-oleum rattle can self-etching or something else? Also, how is the finish holding up to the “build beating”?

Ahhhh - good memories of me making my first "why I am building Sling".. Nice overview!

I’ve noticed in a few other sling tsi builders videos, they use 4 rectangular tables/ workbenches to work on. Do you have a recommended size for the tables or is there a forum that speaks about them? Just looking to get more info as I prepare for my kit to arrive. Also do you park Tesla out side the garage and then run the charging cable under the door?

Lower quality aluminum???? They use mostly 2024-T3 with Alclad, which is a much higher quality aircraft aluminum than is used on some other manufactures' models -- and is far LESS likely to corrode without any additional protection. Where did you get your misinformation from?

How would someone navigate to this page? Is there a portal that sling or TAF will allow you access to?

Thank you for your good videos

Deburred holes before riveted?

Congrats!!!! The first rivets are very special!! Only 20.000 left.. 😂👍👍

I've been enjoying watching your build videos. In my experience, I use a fresh red scotch brite and isopropyl alcohol BEFORE dimpling to clean and achieve the mechanical etch. 320 sandpaper might be too aggressive, especially on a power wheel. Using the scotch brite before dimpling allows the area around the rivet to also get etched. Otherwise you are skipping the entire dimple and it will have no etch. Just my 2 cents... Keep up the good work!

Shouldn't this countersink be done with the dimple die since it's sheetmetal?

I'm curious to know the difference between the aluminum you speak of between the two and how you got this information. Mostly Kaiser 2024-T3 aluminum in both kit types. Why is one better than the other? Corrosion is usually an issue in bonding different types of material together. Such as aluminum against steel. It's not the quality of aluminum.

Nice job! I considered making a comparison video like this, but didn't want to get bogged down in arguments with RV owners in the comments. 😆 Bottom line, they're both fine airplanes, as you say. Here's a few points I might add, for anyone else deciding between these two planes: Build and cost: While it's true (or at least WAS true) that the basic Vans kit is cheaper, it takes more hours to complete. If one wanted to compare apples-to-apples, the Vans "quick build" kit takes the same number of build hours to complete as the Sling "slow build" kit. So, if you compared the Vans quick build kit price to the Sling slow build kit price, their cost advantage disappears. And for those going with build-assist, those extra hours the RV-10 build takes will translate into extra dollars. Plus, as you mentioned, the Sling kit is more complete. Once you buy popular third-party interior kits (seats, sidewall upholstery, center throttle quadrant, overhead, etc.) and other options that most RV-10 builders buy to modernize the look of their plane (wing tips, cowling, etc.), you're spending far more on the Vans. And finally, with their recent 30% increase of kit prices, there's no longer any way anyone can say an RV-10 will be cheaper, even without the third-party options. Performance: RV-10 owners will remind you that they can decrease their fuel burn down to 10 - 11gph by running LOP. That's true, but then their cruise speed will be more in the 155 KTAS range, pretty close to the Sling TSi at ECO power. Conversely, a Sling TSi pilot can run at max continuous power and cruise at 165 - 170 KTAS (in the high teens) while still burning only 10.5 - 11gph . So, pretty darn close in terms of cruise performance. Also, while the RV-10 shows a higher initial ROC on a SL standard day, the Sling TSi's turbo means we'll do better in hot & high conditions, and will retain our ROC better as we go up in altitude. So again, in real-world, pretty much a wash. At the end of the day, you'll end up with an awesome airplane whichever way you go. Happy building!

Looking good! I noticed by the time you did the main wing box, you were wearing gloves. Good call - that metal around the crates gets to be very sharp!

💖 *promosm*

I can see that the hand squeezer is WAY easier to line up the holes, and therefore quicker. Any chance you could normalize the music volume with your voice volume on future videos? You speak pretty softly, but then the music comes in and blows out my ears.

You can dimple without pulling the plastic film away. Works fine and the rivets fit OK after pulling the film off later. I have my empannage and wings done doing them all that way. Evan talks about this in his videos. Hopefully you are reviewing those during your build. I've found them a gold mine. You're more patient than me only pulling part of the film like that. Wait until you get into the size of the wing skins. I agree the film may provide a little bit of protection for scratches or whatever. But I've found the skins are easy to dent. That's the main thing you need to guard against and the plastic won't help.

Can't wait for my kit to arrive next month!

Congratulations! Great job for just you, one person to get all boxes to your garage! You must be excited and ready to start building! More vedios coming? My quick build kit is coming in May.