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Everybody starts small. My first freshwater tank was a 10L plastic bucket. My first saltwater tank ~15yrs ago was a converted freshwater glass tank of 150L. Once you find the perfect one you’ll know. Anything size-ably bigger or smaller will bother you. That’s life 🙂

Prices change over time. So best you look prices up at your local fish shop or an online retailer.

Thank you! There is a video on the equipment setup if that is of interest to you, in my channel’s playlist titled equipment.

Thanks man! 🙂

Thanks a lot ! Feed the fish Ocean Nutrition small pellets once per day. Mysis/Krill once weekly or biweekly. Nori biweekly or monthly. Tropic Marin Elements K+ and A-. 1 dose per day. 8ml per dose. Also Potassium whenever it’s needed to keep it 350-400ppm. Then there is auto dosages of Bicarbonate to keep Alkalinity 8-9 dH, Calcium chloride to keep Ca 400-460ppm, and Magnesium chloride for Mg 1350-1400ppm. pH is quite stable year round at 8,1-8,3. temp 25 C, Sal 1.026, PO4 0.03-0.15 (currently on high side), NO3 20-80ppm (currently on high side). activated Carbon and GFO.

@@rudolfsreef how'd you determine your dosage for the tropic marin elements K+ and A-? Do you send out ICP tests?

GC, ICP-OES or LC/MS/MS has never been done. Just old-school visual observation, sometimes photographic comparison, to evaluate coral health and growth. The treatment was initiated with the minimal dosage recommended by Tropic Marin for this system volume, and have stuck with that dosage through the years. Before the treatment started, the montipora confusa had lost all its yellow-green color (turned brown mostly), the Acros stopped growing, and the Goniopora polyps had recessed. These problems were solved with the trace elements dosage (it took ~2 weeks to see the results). It’s my intention in the near future to create 5min short vids describing the various methodologies I use in running this system. Hope that will prove useful to fellow reefers

Thanks bud! it was not so bad to achieve really. Over time have been streamlining the maintenance and equipment to make it as simple as possible with as little equipment as possible. You can check out my channel’s playlist on “equipment” to see what’s under the hood. let me know after if you have any specific questions. You can start by feeding just enough and not too much. I have this tank for four years now with 1 feed a day of Ocean Nutrition small pellets (mix of Formula One and Two), just enough that the fish gobble the feed within 1 minute (shut pumps off when feeding). Nori and mysis/krill once biweekly.

Thank You ! 🙂

Yes. Tropic Marin Elements K+ and A-. 1 dose per day. 8ml per dose. Also Potassium whenever it’s needed to keep it 350-400ppm. Then there is auto dosages of Bicarbonate to keep Alkalinity 8-9 dH, Calcium chloride to keep Ca 400-460ppm, and Magnesium chloride for Mg 1350-1400ppm. pH is quite stable year round at 8,1-8,3. temp 25 C, Sal 1.026, PO4 0.03-0.15 (currently on high side), NO3 20-80ppm (currently on high side). activated Carbon and GFO.

you’re welcome

You're welcome. For more info, visit their official sites fundydiscovery.ca/tides-tidal-bores/ fundydiscovery.ca/explore-fundy/

This is awesome too! th-cam.com/video/xBU2ZeslemA/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared

Steady as she goes.

Thanks!

Thanks !

The protein skimmer is running at 34W and its maximum capacity is 60W; so it’s running at 57% of its maximum capacity. Tip: clean the skimmer cup (inside neck and lid) every week for best performance.

@@rudolfsreef many thanks. what is your water level

25 cm

The skimmer performance is excellent. It is the only mechanical filtration in operation. For our tank size and bioload, this skimmer size is perfectly suited. Running at 34W and its maximum capacity is 60W, so it’s running at 57% of its maximum capacity. Tip: clean the skimmer cup (inside neck and lid) every week for best performance.

@@rudolfsreef what is your water level at

do you specifically mean in the sump’s compartment housing the protein skimmer ?

@@rudolfsreefyes for the skimmer

@@lukefham7138We have ours set at 25cm.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.

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@@rudolfsreef no3 Po4 ca mg kh ?

NO3 30ppm, PO4 0.03ppm, pH 8.1, Kh 8.0, Ca 460ppm, Mg 1400ppm, Sal 1.026, temp 24-26 C

@@rudolfsreef Thank you

Thanks! It’s not a juvenile any more, 9 years old at least.

thanks for your response

Tack så mycket ! 🙂

Thanks 🙂

She was an absolute stunner with such indomitable character! She lived a long and (we like to think) a happy and vibrant life. We miss her greatly 😌

Can’t see why not! It could be replicated in any container I would imagine. All that is needed is a pump and a light. Of course, also the saltwater [from a tank with fish/corals i.e. nutrients (wastes) for the algae] and Chaetomorpha algae (which will consume the nutrients NO3/PO4 but also consume trace elements). a circulation pump with controllable flow would be best suited. I used a Jebao DC controllable pump. The refugium lights are from Tunze. They are waterproof. Recommended to use then submerged to get more light output. Model Tunze LED ECO Chic Refugium.

🙏

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you very much 🙂

She was one of a kind ☺️

Thanks! The refugium lights are from Tunze. Model Tunze LED ECO Chic Refugium. Here is the link www.tunze.com/AT/en/details/8831.000-led-eco-chic-refugium.html

Thanks! New beginners, should stay clear of the temptation to introduce tangs to their new tank; tangs are very demanding, readily prone to disease, need to eat a lot and pollute the water a lot as a consequence. Clowns and chromis are a good starter fish. Good you started with a few fish. Patience, determination and go slow. Any change made takes weeks, even months to see the true effect. Reefkeeping is similar to Japanese bonsai keeping - extremely slow, articulate yet rewarding art forms.

Thanks! For coralline algae to grow in your tank, it needs to not only be cycled but also have stability from day to day over some weeks. In newly cycled tanks, other faster growing organisms outcompete coralline algae. You need patience and good husbandry, wait for the other pest algae and bacteria to do their thing and over time as the tank matures, an equilibrium will be reached. that’s when coralline algae will grow. once it starts growing it’ll grow pretty fast. It needs good lighting, basically any saltwater tanks lights (LEDs and/or T5s) will do fine 8-12 hrs per day. Must do basic water chemistry weekly testing with stable values: pH 8.0-8.5, Alkalinity 8-9 dH, Calcium 400-460ppm, Magnesium 1300-1450ppm, Salinity 1.025-1.027 (~35ppt). All the best!

the tank is a RedSea Reefer 3xl 900. The display tank, sump, stand and plumbing are included in the purchase. The sump has two tanks, these two can be connected together (to increase total volume) or kept separate (as I have in order to use one as a sump and the other for the RODI auto top off water). In either case, the connective plumbing and the PVC seals caps are all supplied with the Reefer tank on purchase. These parts can also be ordered individually from RedSea. Here’s the link. g1.redseafish.com/support/manuals/products/reefer-3xl-900/tabs/spare-parts

Many thanks!

Much appreciated

it will devour clean up crews. This bird wrasse has been with us for many years. When it was a female it would not go for the turbo snails. The snails thrived and multiplied, from just four snails they became over a hundred. Then she turned into a male over a period of some weeks, and then He decided to obliterate all of the snails in just a few days. The Toby puffer got in on it too, they teamed up together. It was beautiful and horrible at the same time. We love him a lot but he is our last bird wrasse. Need to have turbo snails but can’t keep em just yet. Two turbos did survive. They are in the sump doing well for about a year now.

Should mention also that the bird wrasse is a specialist at hunting bristle worms and bristle starfish.

@@rudolfsreef o wow. Thanks for the info. I guess thats a decision you have to make if you are willing to sacrifice a clean up crew. What methods are you using to keep algae down without a cleanup crew but still looks great.

Thank you ! To control pest algae, first we try to understand which algae it is we want to control as many algae are good for the reef. Algae (zooxanthellae) are essential to corals, so are the colorful coralline algae to a thriving reef. Most pest algae can be controlled by maintaining low NO3, PO4, SiO2. So this is what we’ve been doing … 1. No water changes 2. Use only RODI for ATO 3. Feed to only the fish (once per day). No coral foods. 4. Use an efficient optimally running Skimmer (not over efficient and not under efficient). 5. For PO4 and NO3 removal, we used chaeto algae scrubber for some years. Excess chaeto harvested every two weeks and went to our gardens compost. However, we discontinued the algae scrubber since a couple of weeks to try something new - bio blocks and biospheres from Maxspect (no aluminum leaching media). 6. PO4 removal. For 6 months have tested Maxspect’s Phosphree resin as an alternative to GFO. It works great. Am researching a method to regenerate the old resin so that we Never have to dispose of the old resin ever again to be able to reuse it again and again for many years. 7. NO3 removal. An efficient skimmer should help a lot. keep the skimmer neck clean regularly for it to work best at waste removal. No sand bed. Don’t feed Nori (high in nitrate). 8. Since a month have been carbon dosing to help increase the heterotrophic bacteria that consume NO3. Monitoring the NO3 levels. Looks good so far. When doing Carbon dosing it is important to have a very efficient skimmer. 9. Lighting period not too long. We run our AI LEDs from 11am to 8pm. 10. If NO3 start to spike, we will restart the chaeto algae scrubber. it works really well to control NO3 and PO4 but it also has disadvantages like consumes other elements that corals need, release fragments into the sump, more work maintenance of the sump.

PO4 at 0.03ppm and the NO3 at 30ppm. Sometimes albeit rarely the NO3 go down to 10-20ppm to as high as 40-60ppm. When this happens we don’t do water changes. We clean the sump, siphoned out detritus from the tank/sump, clean the circulation pumps, skimmer, basically get everything running as efficiently as possible. A week later the values drop and stabilize.

Thanks ✌️🙂

Thank you 🙂

Hi ! Our Toby has been with us a very Long time. It is currently our oldest living fish ~10 years. It is very inquisitive and will test bite at new corals but then leave them alone. We have never lost a coral to Toby. However, it has eaten almost all the Turbo snails >50. We cannot keep any fire shrimp or peppermint shrimp, it has eaten them too. It eats the same food as all other fish in the tank (small pellets Omega One formula 1 and 2), two feeds per day. Additionally, Puffers need hard shelled foods (eg. small clams/mussels with shells) so that their teeth do not get large. They use their teeth to gnaw into the shelled mollusks and the teeth remain small this way. Recommend to read up on puffer fish and their teeth ! After 10 years, the teeth of our Toby got too large and we had to take it out because it got lethargic and wouldn’t eat anymore. We took it out of the tank, treat it carefully in mild clove oil bath to numb it/sleep/anesthesia (overdose of clove oil will kill the fish and under-dose it can sense pain from the dental surgery), then with a coral cutting tool & magnifying glasses, carefully cut down its overgrown teeth. It recovered fully in a couple hours and has been ferociously hunting, swimming all around the tank and strongly competing with other fish during feeding time, which has made us very glad !

All the best with your Toby. It will surely entrance you into becoming its best friend for life 😊

@@rudolfsreef ❤

Appreciate the kind words - Thanks 🙂

Steady as she goes … ⛵️

Thanks & Happy Holidays ! 🎄❄️🎄🙂

Thanks & best wishes ! 🎄

Der Hauptsalzwassertank hat 750 Liter. Es ist Teil des Red Sea Reefer system 3XL900. Willkommen auf dem Kanal🙂

@@rudolfsreef dein Becken gefällt mir gut! schau doch auch gerne bei meinem Kanal vorbei :-)

Danke schön! und deinen Kanal abonniert

use a Jebao DC-2500 controllable pump (it’s located in return pump chamber and has green tubing), and have installed a manual valve on the green tubing to be able to control the flow even further if needed.

@@rudolfsreef Appreciate the reply 👍