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@mikeduarte8635 relieves pressure build up from the crankcase

@@xscoops1 thanks for the answers

@angelRostro-j8w don't remember the website but just Google Hoosier JR Dragster 18x8-8

@@JuanOrtiz-of1sr pretty sure that was an RLV from @gopowersports

@@xscoops1 oh ok thanks boss.

@Robert-k7m I actually sold the bike and thr new owner had me add rear suspension and set it up for more cruising, so unfortunately the drag series is over for this one...I have some ideas for a future build though

@@xscoops1 👍🙏

Been running it since I originally posted this, and not one CEL

Track I ran at required lights

Just plugs into the factory connectors

Is there any difference between a 2015 light and a 2022 cbr500r don't know if I ordered a 2015 if it would fit without modification

@bryano2360 not 100% I did this install on a 2016 which should be same as '15 but not certain on a '22

How hard was it to open up the oem light to switch the components from one light to the other any tricks

@bryano2360 OEM just unplugs and the new light plugs back into factory connector

Bottom of the box fits same as OEM so you're not going to have an issue with water. It's sealed pretty well, I personally wouldn't be concerned, not logging any IATs, but all temps that I can monitor in the gauges have been completely fine

I don't want to go to jail 😫

@xscoops1 (GO TO JAIL) Where the hell do you live, China?

Lol there is no govoner

I hear ya but I literally work all day every week and I have a family so all that comes before working on projects for fun.

MPG I've seen about 1 mpg better, pedal feel...hard to say...I didn't wait long before getting a pedal monster from Banks bc the factory settings on throttle are so bad...after the pedal monster sound from the intake and throttle are incredible

It's not but I appreciate it

@@xscoops1 I’ve seen people on smaller tires go much faster so it’s definitely way over kill unless you are running close to what a junior drag rail car is doing.

@robertspata90 we are competing with JRs. That's kinda the point...the point people are missing is that the speeds were hitting in 660ft and most races are 330ft....minibike people don't get it, it's not about top speed...it's acceleration 100%

⁠@@xscoops1Yes that’s what I mean by fast as in get to the end of the 1/8 as fast as you can. Same for me top speed I could care less about so if I can accelerate as fast as possible and get to the end first is what I care about the most. I have a smaller diameter and probably the same width as your front tire on my rear wheel and cut a 1.9 60ft on the street without prep. I was going to say just get a second front wheel and put it in the back and see how that runs. Now if you start making 3 times the power then you might need that big slick again.

@robertspata90 it's making good power man, that's like the second thing I hear from people...like these small blocks can make a MAX of 30ish HP when they are FULLY built...all billet etc...this motor bone stock is 16hp...now with all billet internals and ratio rockers, built up TC you still think it's under powered? How so? Where's the logic in that? I'm dragging on but the comments I get without any basis is draining for real....not directing my rant at you just catching me as I'm reading through some of these

If you are asking what bars I used on the build, they are 7/8" drag bars from Amazon

That sounds like a sweet setup!

Now there's an idea! 💡🤔

Thank you!

No problem bro

You don't have to change the front wheel...the stock one is just very heavy and doesn't turn well. This bike is fairly heavy so I'm not sure the KT100 is going to be a good option...I would imagine you'll be wrapping the motor out and burning up clutches just to get it going...it's also why they put torque converters on when you get them new. Good luck on your build!

@@xscoops1 thanks, I wasn’t really thinking about the weight. I don’t want to use a 4 stroke engine. Any ideas?

@ziokidd408 I would look for a 250 2T or maybe a smaller snowmobile 2T if you don't want to go 4T. If you do a 250 dirt bike or quad motor, it will already have the clutch and gearbox so you won't have to think about that part. Just align the sprockets with the right chain and go

@@xscoops1 ima do that and keep you updated

Appreciate it! It's coming along. I haven't been able to get back to the track since I burned through my brake line, but all repaired just need the time

@@xscoops1 I'm going to build a drag bike over the winter

Not a dumb question. What you'll see is that the driver can be ran either way. Typically the driven is either an inboard or outboard setup. The other thing you'll notice between the 30 and 40 series, why the driver and be flipped, is the 40 series belt is symmetrical and the 30 series is asymmetrical. Notice on the 30 there is a taper on one side of the belt that only goes one way. The 40 series belt isn't that way.

If the driven pulley is reversed “outboard” as seen in the video, then you must have a reverse wound spring “yellow spring”. If the driven pulley is in this configuration, the driver pulley should not be “outboard” it should be mounted “inboard” so that the belt stays aligned fully during high rpm’s. This only works on the 40 series comet driver as the 44 series driver can only be mounted one way, but will still use the 40 series driven.

Yeah it was definitely sputtering. I swapped jets and adjusted the needle position so I think my next time out it'll be better. I haven't posted yet, but the one run I got a couple weeks ago was a full 6 mph faster so we're getting better

Tops so far has been 58mph but it's not reached its limit yet

I have some more videos to come...I was just there a couple weeks ago, brake line came loose and fell on the header so that was the end of the evening, but were all fixed and ready to head back

@@xscoops1 woohoo! From where I’m from mini bikes are popular and near me they do 330 foot drag racing. So I built a powerful 212. Hoping to get out there this season. I broke a valve spring last time out lucky I didn’t drop a valve. I’m running a 308 cam in a hemi with the .020 longer rod. So piston to valve clearance is tight. I had a problem with coil bind too with the shallow valve spring pockets on the hemi. So I bought longer valves that helped. I measured it and it seemed good but idk maybe cheap valve springs. The hemi heads I personally think flow better but im thinking of switching to the none hemi. Run bigger valves… more compression… but I can’t wait to see more vids from ya!

@3generation_racing658 I had done a similar build on a hemi 212, found the path of least resistance is to swap to a 14cc non-hemi head...36lb springs and ratio rockers...just make sure you have the right carb and jetting for it ; )

​@@xscoops1compression is everything! Just like my 1:1 drag race car stuff I'm a huge fan of big compression for performance! The hemi head leads to clearance problems piston to valve on the 212, but there are ways around that. I'm happy to hear that you are continuing to build and test. I do not doubt bigger CC's equal more performance when done right in the end. We need to see some more vids, because this is a fine looking mini! Have you done wheelie bars yet? I been messing around with them for a few years now and I have determined that they work best, at least as a starting point, if the distance from rear axle to wheelie bar axle is same as the wheelbase of the bike. It's about 36" but varies obviously. This setup makes the rear wheel axle kind of the fulcrum for pivot and keeps you going straight. I've tried both single and dual wheel drag wheelie bars and their is advantages to each. The single let's you ride it out like it wants. If you got a lot of power a dual wheel wheelie bar can help settle things down and keep it pointed straight. I got more testing to do, but for mini's I'm thinking working front fork travel and maybe a cushioned rear wheelie bar arrangement is tuneable and make for the most consistent and quickest passes. Got off track yapping, but would love to see some more vids. Get with me if you wanna know more about my wheelie bar tests. I don't have vids on any of it, I'm too old to make vids. Maybe that will change soon we will see I guess.

Yes the predator 420 flywheel with the e-start ring

A small vtwin like that is on the list. Performance parts and all!

@@xscoops1 sweet I’m subbed in for the build bro 😎🤘!

Same response as i commented above, I'm showing you exactly how she looks coming out of the garage, and we go over the bike before showing up to the drag strip

Thats why i got over everything BEFORE showing up at the strip 😊

@@xscoops1 - Good call.... It looked like the chain wanted to jump teeth the whole burnout. Did you add a chain tensioner on it or was it just basic testing before racing¿?

@XPNDBLhero on these frames you tension the chain by tightening the axle sliders, so super easy takes a couple seconds

Yeah it's much larger, I have the pedal monster just installed and Derringer is on the list

That's why we test. Already changed our gearing, another big difference between yours and this is the weight...frame and motor are probably double or triple yours

​@@xscoops1just realized this is from 5 months ago. First I wanna say that I wasn't putting you down and love your answer about testing. Maybe you have a new video out soon with results? Also, I love that front wheel and want one! Where do I get one???

That'd be a bummer! I will be getting back to the track soon. Now that season is here new videos will be coming

That's awesome! I haven't been great getting videos put together but working on it

@@xscoops1 Man, I feel that. How friendly is Edgewater toward minis? Working on a 212 build and would like to see some numbers eventually

@@Hashcommander I've always been treated well...one time the guy working tech gave me a hard time but still passed me and I had a good time. Track is always great though

@@xscoops1 If we ever run into one another, I'd be down to do a run; this big block vs my small block.

@Hobbies With Hash heck ya, I'm down. I usually try to go on test and tune nights, but have to finish work I started so she's back up and running

Appreciate the love!

18x8-8

It's a JR Dragster slick. You can find them online for around $110-120 size is 18x8-8

I appreciate the love. Should have another video coming soon

Pros would be better throttle response, mpg's, increase in power. Cons would only really be the up front cost

Can you hear the turbo better with this cold air intake?

Waiting to get back to the drag strip since changing up the gear ratio...was only getting 52mph before we had maxed our gear ratio. Plus we added a turbo...🤷

@@xscoops1 .... wow

They do, and yes Kenda Speed Racers

@@xscoops1 🫡💯 hell yeah thank you

Love it. I can try and get a clip

I just posted another short with the driving sounds

Removing the tank, exhaust, and factory intake were the biggest issues. After that, we cut the frame and made made clearance for the TC. We cut out to factory motor mount plate and jackshaft and welded in a new 1/4" thick steel plate and I added the big block billet adjustable mount to get it all square

@TedTucholski that's the plan but needed something to get by for now