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How has this Ashley 3200 been heating your shop ?

I see that you have the pro model? Can I do that to a regular g660 also?

the 440 is the best all around saw i think but i do love the 550 mark2 for most the work i get to do

id love to have an oem 044 or 440. i have the g444 big bore ported and i love it.

U got it man ! Let the saw warm up for a good 2-3minutes vs starting it up and yarding on it right away. Top end will last WAY longer

Yes Sir, the 044 is def 1 of my fav Stihls and on the other side of the coin is the Husqy 372. Dunno if I could pick my fav between those 2 as they both go on the back of the pickup when I'm cutting. I'll start off with the 044 but at the end of the day (literally) I'll grab the 372 just because of its superior AV....

Askrd local guy can ya advance my saw. Hes no no dont do that. Asked can put 1\4 sproket on it. Just goes i dont do that what ya meen? Haha i want it.

Did muff mod to my 150t. Works great. Did same to mates new 151 that never aran right. But i cleaned it up well. No bits. Runs good sometimes but really been a shitter' the 150t still great.

Why buy Chinese unless you absolutely have to? Buy North American and employ your neighbors. But if it’s too expensive, which it can be, then buy from friendly nations at least!

Did this model 338xpt can use full chisel chain dor 16 inch bar

Please let us know how you are doing with this stove. I have been running the Ashley 3200 for about a week this thing just draws to much air - burns hot - eats wood. Have tried a couple of adjustments. Just wonder how yours is doing.

Gotta use some wedges as well. Makes it much easier on the saw and you. My first wedge goes in as soon as possible at the starting point and I add more on each side every time I feel it slowing down.

Blaze King, of the three.

Looked great in the end. I've got to tackle this same project with a trailer. Thanks for the tips.

Threebond 1184 is wut i use , or in a pinch moto seal.

Both tires have to be off the ground in order to spin one of them, limited slip rear differentials .

I love mine! 2 years..0 problems

Can I have 272 used and in very good perfect working condition. I'm in Uganda

Warm chimney pipe up first on a cold stove small fire cardboard and paper or take torch and warm pipe up on the inside if you can reach the it must have a draft in chimney for stove to work correctly that is pulls outside air in though air vents pull air across the fire and takes it out though the chimney cold pipe or no pipe no draft no air flow wood can't burn

Put straps around stove lift up with tractor mount the stand under stove move it into building or used a cart with wheels to move stove into finally resting place not that heavy of a stove my hand fed stove comes in at 650 lbs now that's heavy

The chimney is the engine on any stove without a pipe on it you will not have a draft to take air in though the vents and draw out though chimney pipe you need a pipe on the stove you also need a coil spring on the handle or you will get burn you hand when you forget your glove

Working properly, put some stove pipe on even just a 4 foot piece and you will see a difference

I have the US2000-P smaller brother version of that stove. It does need a chimney. My chimney location, without the fire lit, is always drawing some air upward when the wind blows. On my version of the stove, the door handle has a machine screw holding a roller to cinch the door down and the threads poke past the handle latch mechanism just right to catch the frame to hold the door open around 1/8" or so when starting. A few times I needed the door cracked more (wood quality issue) so I lightly clamped a pair of vise drips to the little shelf below the door to keep it at the right spot. with a good chimney creating draft, it lights pretty easy and rips hard. Cooks me out of my 1500sqft house if I get wild and keep packing it full lol. Yours should too once connected to a chimney. I have 20ft of chimney.

How did you reset the settings on the pressure relief valves when reassembling?

Hey man, i bought my saw (ms660) used off a guy who works on saws. What do you suggest my next step be here? I have the dotted serial number on my saw. The chain cover seems to be stihl. The handle, air filter, air filter plastic, and pull cord cover all seem to be replaced. Is it possible my saw was a parts saw at one point and just rebuilt with some non-oem parts? What would be the #1 thing to look for on the powerhead? I understand Stihl does use parts stamped with PA66-Gf 30. That number signifies the type of plastic (polyamide 66) it is.

we won't hold your degrees against you😅

You need a chimney before you really get a good idea of how it will operate. I think a double wall pipe keeps the pipes hot a little better and helps with the draw. I have a short 15' pipe and my draw is ok, think a taller stack would help. Even my little 1200 sq ft stove weighs a ton, it was a bear to move that into my shed. You'll enjoy that once you get a pipe on it and burning it outside is smart b/c that paint does stink!

You stated that the chimney would help a little bit with the draft. From my experience,the chimney is the key to draft. The longer the better. Also, install a damper to adjust it. In summary, no chimney no draft.

i have an old model 20 but i need to find someone in connecticut that repairs. any ideas anyone, thanks.

What about the hydraulic fluid fittings? Is there an O ring seal behind them? I think mine is leaking on the bottom of these fittings

I bought a aw40 ashley wood stove , what a screwing. the stove is a piece of work. what happened to wonder wood.

Ashley is owned buy us stove with a price rise.

You can tell the younger fella doesn't run saw very much. Either way good vid guys!

Why not just advanced the ignition module instead?

iron horse sent me

Hi , you still have your g372? I bought one and had gas tank vent issue. Fix that and got the carb to work right.

12:52 this is exactly where I am with a near identical saw from the same clone supplier at this exact moment. sigh, put down, go look for clues lol. but I'm a schlep who has barely used a chainsaw more than a few hour total time, not a guy who knows what he is doing e: 9:05 my butterfly valve doesnt move when I adjust the idle screw. Heck, it doesnt even move when I press the throttle handle (while saw off. havent gotten saw started for first time yet). It only move when I pull the choke. that said, my boot and valve setup are a tiny bit different from yours. i got my saw 2023, so its probably just a different/updated carb im guessing. Still, I'm not sure if this is how it is supposed to be, or if I'm screwing up, or if the saw is screwed up 😅 2nd e: got fuel feeding, the comp bypass is working, got the idle and high/low speed screws set in at least a good enough place to start, but still cant start. gotta test spark next i guess. 3rd e: inconsistent spark. not sure why 🤔 4th: I'm a maroon lol, it was inconsistent because it wasnt fully grounded. figured that out with my finger 🤣. So, I have spark, fuel, compression, the set screws are all set (throttle screw just barely engaged, low and high jets 1 full turn open) and she just wont start. not even a cough. hmmmmm 5th: okay, just to keep documenting for any lurkers who might be having issues, there are TWO butterfly valves. one for the choke, one for the throttle. I'll bet more capable people than me already knew that lmao. both are working just fine. still not starting. 6th: performed some adjustments as advised by video author. still not starting. time to consider that I may have bought a dud. I'll keep twiddling with it, but not today!

you would be better to find some rough cut hardwood and then coat it with diesel/oil mix

yeah treated wood seems not to last any longer than non treated wood, I treated my trailer wood with a fifty fifty mix diesel and used oil, used a pump sprayer to apply it a couple coatings and it's holding up real good going on five years now

I just set one of these up recently myself. Definitely caps up, for clearance and for refueling - on a long run, you’ll use more than a tank of fuel. I find it easier to set the spacing between the bar clamps and leave it. It’s actually easy to slide the saw in when you have the clamps loosened. On my mill the cast crossbars didn’t sit square on the rails - I threw them in my mini mill and squared them up. You can purchase 30 x 30 mm t slot channel online cut to length and extend the rails as long as your little heart desires. Good stuff - cheers.

I think you should flip the saw because right now you can’t saw to close to the ground or whatever your wood is laying on. I run mine the other way around because of this. Hope you understand what I meant :)

DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON THE BRAKES

Make sure that your end clamp is at least an 1 1/2 away from the bar sprocket or you’ll smoke it in about 2 passes.

Finally! I can’t wait to see that thing in action

Great job .I'm about to weld that cheap tool that did u no good right to the cap and try that... I'm going to weld the pins right in the put the tool onto the pins so the tool will stop falling off. That tool is great for a non stuck cap..but sucks for stuck one...Ive been trying a lot..even added some heat with the acetylene torch but I haven't managed to lock on to the cap to back it out..even my giant pipe wrench just eats into the cap then twist of... Great video mines in a much lower spot.. so I won't be able to do it quite like you did.

Blaze King is made in USA or Canada and is the best. Good luck,

if you get the saw running and spray something like brake cleaner or starting fluid on the seal and the engine rpm changes you know you have a leak

Do you know how tall the pedestal is?