วีดีโอ

I know this is an old video but dam good info. I have a 2015 F150 V8 and it’s been stalling out at a stop. I get no check engine light and no codes. 🤯

Wow. Magic-man! I was stranded on the freeway. I had my son bring out as many tools as I could think of including my code reader and multimeter. I had thought for sure it was a dead coil. When I read the codes I almost fell out of my seat! ...Lord Google got me to this video, but I had no wire to jump. But wait...My multimeter leads could not POSSIBLY work, could it? Well it did, and I was on the road again in 10 minutes! Thanks!

👍

Hi, great video, Thank you. I have a 2019 Lariat and my “chrome” / aluminum running boards were replaced under warranty because they were bubbling and peeling off. I bought it used and they came that way. I have been diligent about cleaning them but now notice they are starting to bubble again in a few spots. Do you have any advice about how I can repair the bubbles? I there a product that I can use to respray the chrome perhaps? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Ray.

How do you install it

I have the exact same symptom and string of trouble codes on a 2013 expedition with a three valve 5.4 in it. I’m going to try this before I tear back into it. I just replaced all the timing chains, guides, oil pump, Cam phasers, and all of the rocker arms about 3000 miles ago. it has been running fine without issue until now. This problem seems to occur most commonly right after startup, before the engine reaches operating temperature.

Both. One terminal of the VCT will be negative, the other pin is positive. Does not matter which is negative or positive

Do you hook the cable to the positive side or the negative side of the battery

Another life saved by this video! Truck stalled as I was coming into work and would stalled immediately after startup. I keep a code reader handy and it had the P0019 code. Found your video and made some small jumper cables from our shop, tapped the VCT about 10 times and started clicking after about the 5th time. Started right up and no stall or rough idle, good enough to go home! Thanks!!!

Man you are a lifesaver! After replacing spark plugs and fuel injectors, I was at a loss trying to figure out what was going on with my truck. This is what i needed. Thank you so much.

Thank you! That was it.

Had the same issue with my 2018 5.0. replaced the part and runs great. The 5.4s had the same issue

Came out of work to this issue luckily i had scanner in my truck went back inside grabbed an old extension did exactly that now im home in time for diner ! Life saver !

Hello Sir , I want to thank you for this well done video, to the point but all details in there. I watched this several times. Then tried it on the left bank. When touching wires as shown tic,tic,tic,tic,tock,tock,tock cleared codes problem solved thanks again. That was two weeks ago. Ordered and replaced all 4 solenoids yesterday.

How did you make the jumper wire

Does ignition need to be in ON position (electronics powered but engine not running)?

I have a 2014 F-150 with the 5.0 and I keep getting a flashing CEL or sometimes a permanent CEL when accelerating over 4500rpm. The code has always been p0300. There's no signs of rough idling or loss of power when the CEL is on, I have no idea what it could be. It's annoying when I'm on the highway trying to pass people and seeing the CEL flash every time.

Dealership has me waiting weeks for an appointment, sucks for them its warranty work. This does work, and I also cleaned the connector as well because oil leaked into it. For anybody who can benefit from this, Harbor freight has retractable test leads which fit perfectly onto the prongs, and will reach the battery. Also some electrical connector cleaner may be necessary, and some compressed air is needed to blow out the connectors after cleaning.

Dude, you are the master builder!

Man... You're a damn lifesaver. Truck broke down at 6am omw to work. I come across this video and was up and running in no time.

Thank you. You saved the day

I have a question, can anybody help

I would start testing the wires at coil #8. Should have constant 12V+ on one terminal and the another terminal will be pulled to ground (pulsing) by the ECU when it is running. Check with a noid light. You can always run an extra jumper wire from a good coil 12V+ wire to the #8 coil 12V+ wire as a test. Still an issue. Run a new wire from the negative side of the coil to the correct ECU terminal using probe pins to make the connections.

What’s the part number or where can I order that one

Great video. V12s and vice grips baby!!

What did you fing out with the movement on the output gear? You say it's normal? I have one apart with the same problem, thanks.

Dude, just want to say thanks! I have a 2018 Mustang GT with 38k miles and the VVT exhaust solenoid on driver's side was giving codes and misfires. I did just like you said and it straightened/fixed the car out. Oil has been changed about everything 5k miles. So it's not due to bad maintenance, like some other has said. It's just a part that fails. Unfortunately for me I have to order the part, it's not available local. Your video got the car moving again till new part comes in. Thanks again.

Where can I get a simple cable like this from or rig one up from something at home?

Can't hear what you said about ignition wires, tell me without engine running, thanks

Awesome video, i have just fitted the auxiliary box to the main box on an 18 speed and when the output shaft yoke nut is tight the output shaft is hard to spin and the range change doesn't work. (But range change works when auxiliary box is by its self) have you come across this before? Im about to tear my hair out. Thanks

Cam phasers cuz get the revision! They just cam out with it

Hi. I had same problem and it's been a while. I'm guessing it maybe cause by engine oil thickness. Manual says it need 5w-20 but last time when I changed to 10w-30, everything was okay until I change back to 5w-20. Now it start again and very often compare with when I use 10w-30. I'm not a mechanic so I’d like to listen your opinion. Thanks.

How do you recommend I make the jumper wire and do I connect to the positive battery or negative? Also which prong on the exhaust solenoid did you touch it with the left or right prong? Thanks

Was having rough idle/stalling issue this morning. Found your video with in about 20 mins of researching. Did exactly what you said it fixed the idle/stall. Took it it to my local mechanic he confirmed via check engine like. New VCT solenoid ordered and will be installed tomorrow. Thanks again! Had me worried it was cam phasers or something much worse lol.

Can the other ones stick, and if so, can you jump them too?

Both times - I had just gotten an oil change - so that threw me off. But I have had this same issue and the VCT got stuck after I changed drive modes - sort of coincident that I was changing into sport mode when I all of a sudden began running rough and had to labor home with check engine light on. Thank goodness for this post - the dealer couldn't figure out what was wrong and wanted to start ripping things apart. Curious if you figured out why solenoid was getting stuck - just bad or did you find sludge when you replaced it ? I have not replaced the solenoid yet.

Great job building this beautiful, so close to genuine Diablo! Visually, the only thing that gave it away was the door pillar. It’s painted yellow and is supposed to be black. Other than that, I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference, VISUALLY THOUGH.

I've had dealer change phaser. A few months later it runs rough and dies at a stop. Purge canister changed. Runs fine for a few months. Then same thing runs rough and dies at a stop. A few months later it's doing it again. 2016 f150 5.0. 50k miles. These cam phasers and solenoids needing oil pressure is just a bad design. IMO. Especially when there's no check engine light??

Can I have your WhatsApp contact

Do you have a deceleration rattle?

I have the same issue

Great information. Just bought a used 2020 F-150 and could not understand why the chrome running boards didn’t clean up like the rest of the chrome. Will have to get to work on my aluminum running boards.

Do you touch the hot wire from battery to both of the vct contacts at the same time

My Ford got a p0012 will this fix it?

I know a few BMW owners who would benefit from ditching the factory ECU of their cars with this engine.

There is another way to do that, what we do is drop the whole unit out of the truck witch makes it easier to work on, then we pop the cover and if we are doing the auxiliary we put the unit on a stand upside down and pull the auxiliary off with a crane that way, and then we build the auxiliary right in the main box after we clean it all up

trasmisión de13

I have p0024 and p0025 on my 2014 mustang GT would that fix it ?

Should I do it on bank one and bank 2

Hey im from alberta, starting a M73 project. Did yours actually worked out ? If it did please tell me what did you use as ecu, and where di you got your base map ? That would help me a lot ! Thank