วีดีโอ

@@BodieJones I built it. That’s made from the light guards of a brush guard with a bycycle grip on it. It goes down into another tube which is oversized and has pins though it so I can remove it to get though a pipe or something. Also it’s bolted through the hull with sealant

@@Finzadventures I’m 90% sure it’s a 15”

I will have to measure later

@@codylanning1524 if you don’t mind that would be great!

@@codylanning1524 did you ever get a chance to measure it?

@@Finzadventures right at 16”

@@kevinhaehn2532 yes for sure. I turned the pump off for the video. I was feeding. That pump can run all that water though the filter 6-7 times per hour. So if I didn’t turn it off over half the food would end up in the filters

12x32

Do you think it’s to much have same boat

@@user-oz1ie9gt3f as long as your transom can take it, I think it’s perfect. The 212 with ppl and gear wouldn’t plane out. The 459 is over powered if you alone and empty but in mud boats over powered is what will get you out of something.

I have a 5hp air cooled outboard now and it won’t plane out but also trying to get it to idle right and the card fixed

Have you had anything smaller then that on that boat

Mine stays on. That pipe will make a huge difference with the right jetting. Also as far as mufflers, don’t waste your time with their disk mufflers. They don’t work. Get on amazon and buy a shorty motorcycle muffler and make it work. Great sound. Still loud but that straight pipe long tube it unbelievably loud

@@codylanning1524 I ordered the vtwin loop. How you recommended I get jetting right just drill them out till it feels right ? And okay I been taking mine off you think it will be fine leaving it on not like bow up my floor or something weird. It sits on 2x4s but Suckers heavy😂transom I’ve re enforced like I said.

@@coltensawyer6761 like i said i leave mine on. Going down the lake it harder on the transom than transporting the boat to and from the lake in my opinion. Yeah a set of letter and number bits or you can get a torch tip cleaner and make jets bigger that way. Just pull your spark plugs and watch them. Thats how you tell if you got your mixture right. Also a little rich is better than a little lean. Running lean makes the engine run hotter. Which on an air cooled engine that’s important

@@codylanning1524 I’m familiar with jetting I’ve done it on my KTM dirt bike and past bikes ! I’ll try what you said get those things and do it. And you think so ? I always was under the impression trailering was the worst for a boat but guess not ! I built my boat transom heavy like I said but these mud motors are heavy as you know what 😂I reckon I’ll just leave it on and see what happens keep an eye on all of it. If you had a 14-36 what would you run ???

@@coltensawyer6761 I mean that’s what’s I’ve heard too but if you ever take that boat and motor through a stump field and actually look back, ain’t no way a trailer is worst than that on it lol

Yes it does. The only thing I don’t like about the kit. My clutch ever goes out I’m going to see what I can do about an electric PTO clutch for it. I have tried everything to get it not to chatter like that and nothing I did seemed to help

@@codylanning1524 same here. The guy at mud skipper told me the motor was sitting too low in the water but it planes out fine and prop sits half in and half out when on plane. I try and trim mine up when easing along.

@@bp30656 I’ve never tried that. Mine trimmed all the way up with me not on plane, my prop sits about half way in the water. Only no wake I have to deal with is right at the boat ramps so it don’t bother me too bad. Usually where I’m going I have to stay on plane to make it in anyway

Stock. I’m not going any further with the build on this engine. It’s very reliable and can get 2 people and 2 deer up on plane in the length of the boat. Plenty of power for what I need the way it is

@@codylanning1524 I didn't realize I was talking to THE Cody lanning. Lol. I was just telling people to watch your TH-cam videos the other day for help with putting a linear actuator on their twister. Keep up the good work. I bet that pressure washer is a monster. Lol

Dumb question, it does have a clutch right? I think some of them now come without a clutch and is straight drive. Second, back the idle screw out until the prop stops turning.

It spun the builit rod bearings and eat the crank. Only way to get that kind of power out of a small block is to tack it up

@codylanning1524 I assume after you built yours, there was no Rev limiter... so it could have been peaking at 8k or more whenever u lift the prop from the water

@@spldrong never reved it that hard. I’d say it would have went past 9k easy. I was turning that 6.5” prop to 6k or better. But never hit anything and blew the prop out to let it rev to the sky. Had royal purple oil with zinc in it too.

Nah, the 224 is horrible to mod.

Spark plug looks perfect to me. Runs great and strong.

A grab bar makes all the difference in the world. In my early videos, that grab bar is an old folks walker. It worked good

Spinning a lot more rpm and not going as fast. Prop just isn’t efficient as the aluminum props I were running.

@@codylanning1524 What prop do you recommend?

@@claybush9143 6.5 for heavy and 7” for lighter just normal aluminum props

I've seen a stage 2 make 17 HP on a dyno.

@@fish_R_stinky69 to think of builds in stages is absolutely kudacris

@@jimholesaw6597 Nah, it's aight.

Intake side is the same as the 420. I got it off amazon. Exhaust is Robertson torque tube

@@codylanning1524 thanks

2 blade I try to run the center nut that holds the prop on at water surface level. No cavitation plate. Surface piercing props need some air

@@codylanning1524 thanks. Got a small crack in my boat that opened up on a tree the other day duck hunting. Figured id see if i can get a little better performance out of the motor while im fixing the boat.

With it just me, if I just let go of the throttle and come down hard off plane I take a little water but not much. If you look though my other videos I did a walk around of my boat showing how I reinforced the transom with a thick aluminum plate. Also have a iron wood transom. But as far as swamping coming off plane, with 2 ppl or a deer up front, I can’t swamp it if I wanted to. My boat actually holds it well. My boat is a 1969 and back when them made stuff strong and thick too so I don’t have any flex issues at all.

@@codylanning1524 okay great thanks for that info it helps me on mine. boat in building is a late 60s or early 75. It doesn’t says 75 on title but it isn’t right because no HIN. But it’s a sears 14-36 I’m doing all aluminum transom with added plate for distribution on the back side and it has to floor braces. I’m gonna run a 670 that i already have you think it will be to big ? I mean I’ve seen guys with 12-36 run it Haha

@@coltensawyer6761 personally If I had a 14x36 I’d go bigger. You won’t have any problem with a 459 at all with that boat. In the mud boat world in my opinion over powered it what makes it get up and go in the heavy stuff. 14x36 I would strap a 670 on it and roll out

@@codylanning1524 man I have a 670 in the basement I probably will use I’m running James river with lots of rocks and seaweed. Get all in the prop. I trying to pick between a surface drive and a Longtail. Which you like better ?

@@coltensawyer6761 all I have ever owned is the twister and the surface drive. To me, there is no comparison to the surface drive. You point it, it goes and handles like an outboard. I believe the long tail will run shallower. Just by design but I’ve never got my boat stuck with the surface drive either so.

Don’t really know never measured. It’s a 15” transom and just me (all the weight in the back id say I got 8” or so above water. 2 ppl makes it better probably 5-6” with 2 ppl. Boats a little small for that motor. I wish it was a 12x36 but it was my papas boat. 1969 is what the title says lol

2 or 3 blade prop on the twister? What diameter prop? Cavitation plate?

0. Stock one is doing fine still. Took it apart and cleaned and checked it before season and it was good. No signs of wear. It ever goes I’m going to figure out how put an electric pro clutch on it. My only complaint is, that factory clutch don’t like to idle along. Either stopped or it wants to get up and go. Don’t do easy well

@@codylanning15243months later and I finally got mine. Yeah I found out the clutch isn’t much a of natural haha I slapped a 420cc pred with the kit and now my 12/32 is currently having two pods welded on. I’ve yet to get up to speed and when I tested it I was having water come over the back when I wanted to slow up. So hopefully the pods will help with that!

@@turtsable they will for sure. Also have you battery and other gear up front

Intake side is the same as a 420 so Amazon is where I got my air filter and adapter. Pipe is a Robertson torque tube and when I called to order I told him it was a 459. Only difference is in the exhaust side is the studs are slightly wider on the 459. So if you have a way to slot the holes on the exhaust flange, any 420 header will work

You can try it. I think a stage 1 kit and maybe at the most a cam. You don’t need the billet rod or flywheel as long as you don’t rev it past 5k rpm. Also, don’t adjust the timing up on the motor. Sounds good but all you do when you do this is move your power curve higher in the rpm range. Them small motors need all the bottom end they can get

@@codylanning1524 🤔Food for thought. Thanks. 👍

Not unless it was 48” wide with pods. This motor is about all mine wants as far as weight

Hell no! 😂.... I put a 22hp with a Swamp Runner longtail on a 14ft fiberglass boat and it can get a little unstable at full speed. But it has some serious torque when going through mud, weeds, and over logs! And that is with a factory 9 inch prop. I haven't tried the 9 1/2 yet. But if you dare to install a 22hp on a 12ft Jon boat, I highly recommend float pods before you even launch it. You can easily sink that little boat with that amount of weight.

Ended up selling it. Never had an issue though. I upgraded to the 459 and a surface drive. My advice is go to the 420/459 what ever you do. Little heavy but well worth it. The small block (212) is almost a joke if you have any weight with you

@@codylanning1524 That is certainly something to consider. Thanks. 👍

No idea

No just simple stage 1 with Roberson torque tube, Amazon air filter adapter and rejetted the carb. 27-28 mph just me and 23mph with 2 people and gear.

Sold it.

If it was reving out like it should then needed bigger prop. If it just lugged and wouldn’t rev needs to go smaller prop. Also idk what kit you had either. I know the older stock twister kits came with a 3 blade. For speed and running half out of the water it’s junk. If you have this same kit then idk what was wrong unless that carb wasn’t right

My kit is the feather light surface drive kit, same as yours. The engine will cause the 2 bladed 9” prop to cavitate at takeoff then it kinda grabs ahold but then the engine just kinda lugs like it’s not making any power. Also I’ve noticed that the belt is rubbing on something because there’s rubber in the clutch housing. It’s probably a combination of several things keeping it from running at its full potential. The thing should be a ripper with all I’ve done to the engine. Only had it out twice. I’m disappointed so far, but it’s probably something I messed up.

@@RA-zl6iw that belt rub is the belt slapping the side of the housing about half way down. You figure out how to fix that let me know lol. I’ve fought that battle for a while now and can’t get it stop. All I can say is don’t run your belt too tight or it will snap. That ain’t the answer lol. My bet is the carb. Maybe adjust the needle up or down. Check your spark plug and see if your rich or lean. Has to be that. My stage 1 will run cause the boat to run out from under you. Again, dig more into tuning that carb up right and I bet it will fly

Thanks for the reply/advice. Yea it’s definitely running rich. I’ve got another new 34mm carb I’m gonna try on it. I’ve also got a tach coming to see what kinda rpm it’s making….it’s not making many rpm by my ear. I’ve gotta push the prop halfway out of the water to get the rpm up. I would have thought the engine would have easily handled the 9” prop, especially since it cavitates at a full throttle takeoff. Something isn’t right with the carb and now I wish I woulda left the stock one on it. The positive part of it is I added a 6 gal tank and fuel pump up front for long runs. Thanks for the help

@@RA-zl6iw dumb question but you have got jets and re jetting this carb right? Also the needle that comes out where you hook the throttle cable to on that slide has adjustments on it also. Watch a TH-cam video on tuning them things they are touchy. That needle needs to be lowered by the way it sounds to me. Also may need to go down on that main jet some

Idk about the cable I used the factory that came with the kit and just put that small end on it for the mukuni. As far as the pulse pump issue, I had same issues with it at high rpm. That’s why I went to an electric fuel pump. Can get them on Amazon fairly cheap. Just make sure it’s a low psi pump. If I were to have kept going with this motor I would have had to install a catch can.

PVL billet from OMB warehouse. Rod was a ARC billet (+.020)

I was definitely wondering if it had a rod or not. Did you ever get the chance to test the speed props mudskipper sells now.

@@rncboy2 no. At the time of this all mudskipper offered was the weedless and standard.

First time I hit the throttle after I put stage one on it, I was sitting on the bench seat and ended up against the transom lol. Huge hole shot difference

Also gained 3-4 mph top end. Worth every cent

​@codylanning1524 wow. You convinced me I need this lol. Did you size up jet or keep stock? I know some guys run 34 mm mikunis and report nice performance gains.

@@tylerczekaj860 I just rejetted my carb. I drilled mine out myself and ended up being .046-.047” drill. The down side to doing a mukuni, you loose your governor. Not only does the governor restrict your engine rpm, it aids in starting. When I had the mukuni on my 212, it may have been a little more power but IMO wasn’t worth the cost or the aggravation of making it harder to start. I haven’t done mine but another cheap thing you can do is add a 8 degree flywheel key to your flywheel and it will make a difference. Moves the power curve of the engine up in the RPM range. I want hole shot and torque more than top end so I’m staying with factory timing

@@codylanning1524 that's true about the govenor, I didn't consider that. I think I'll just do exhaust air intake and rejet up a size and see how it is. Performance definitely isn't the best with 2 people and a dog with camping gear going up river, even in a 1436.

I made it. It’s a stainless ADA rail that goes in a bathroom. Took and cut the 2 bends off and clocked them till I liked the angle and welded it up. Already had a stainless flanger where it bolted to the wall so I just had to trim it up and drill the correct holes

No. I will say leave the engine loose, bolt the 4 bolts that hold the kit to the back of the motor and then slide the motor as far forward as you can. Then tighten everything up. That’s what got that angle out of mine

I went to a surface drive with a 459

12x32 with a stage 1 hemi think done about 18hp Now it has the stage 1 459 and does about 27mph

I highly recommend the twister. I bought one last year and I could not be happier with it. The true long tails were way too long for the skinny Creeks that I wanted to run. When I bought mine it came with a stainless steel 3 blade prop. I purchased the two blade prop conversion kit at time of purchase because it was a little cheaper to do it that way. All of your questions about props can easily be solved with the conversion kit. You get more top speed, less vibration with two blade props. The kit will also come with three props (sizes vary depending on kit). You can very easily gain a few more mph buy fine-tuning your prop size and adding a stage 1 kit to whatever motor you're using (free-floaair filter, bigger jet, free-flow exhaust). I have a Honda 13hp (actual 11.7hp) with a stage 1 kit and it pushes my 1542 tracker 18mph when I'm solo with no load. Drops to about 13mph with (3) kids and a cooler. IT GOES EVERYWHERE THAT I'VE TAKEN IT from silty soft mud to <8" of water in a rocky creek.

@@donduck6195 lol yea i ran the 3blade prop first day. found it all out formyslef. The 3blade props,.. well got too go out on river got too go places i never could before, but cavitation, slipped, and didnt like speed.. 3blade be great pushing big heavy boat, lower rpm.. BUT, ordered the 2blade props, cpl diff sizes, I got a twister clone kit off ebay with 200 motor.. seems be almost same kit other sell.. got the 7" 2blade prop too start, tapped it for M16X2.0, Added set screw 2 m16 machine washers.. NO b.s it dbbled, almost trippled the speed.. Got 15mph w/ 2ppl.. alone id say i got 18mph. lol was havin too much fun too check, almost scary in a lill 32" boat.. Got a #1 prop, or 6.5"hi speed" gonna try that next.. see how it does. Just did a air filter kit for now.. mite do a mild cam, 1x size up on jet ,lill exhaust mod. debatting on a mikuni carb clone vm22, and govener delete... Think ill just do stage 1x kit, maybe mild cam, get rid of plastic cam in it.. change oil after every 2-3 tanks.. and mess with props for now.. Thought about puttin a 390cc on there but there 1" size pto shafts.. i think the twister kit i got is 3/4".. havent found any adapters that go from 1"-3/4" shaft.. ahh ill play with th 200 clone a while. till i get bored an orr start taking 2 ppl with me then go up too a bigger kit. lol thanks for the content and info.

@@justinherdman87 could you post the link to what prop you used ? I have the twister clone with GB200 as well and need a 2 blade

On that one I had an Amazon low psi electric “thumper” pump. I don’t remember exactly what it was though. It was a 1-3 psi if I remember right.

@@codylanning1524 dude thanks I'm having fuel starvation issues with NY nibbie this maybe the solution

@@alanstewart1491 it is an easy thing to test. If I remember right the fuel pump was only $30 or so.

Yes it has to have some bend your you will have to fight it the whole time