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Why not put bolts in instead of studs ??

Nice car a p5b you are doing a cracking job😊

Good work if necessary and the mechanism is worn out but the winders are very quick to lower the window. When in good condition they're part of the cars character......and quiet!

outstanding work there sir. Making new footsteps with this job

Nice work in your last 2 videos on the rover P5, with the electric window conversion maybe grease the cog and worm to reduce Noice, but looks like it works great. Cheers

I got the Window lifters here www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00H8JYGTM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Outstanding work, that's a daunting job. Well done for saving another beautiful old classic.

Lots of work completed, doing a good job of body repairs, P5b one of my favourite cars, I did have one for a while, but had to sell unfinished.

A little tip I learnt when in historical motorsport engine build, when you fit the valve stem collets make sure they are evenly gapped between each other….little details make a winner ❤

Oh my goodness, you've now stacked all the rings together rather than gapped them for each cylinder and put them together as sets. I don't think I can watch much more...

A piston ring grinder would have set you back 25 quid. Also push the ring down the bore with a piston - this ensures it's square in the bore and in the area it will be running in.

Very useful video, thankyou. Just zoomed in👍👍

Morning Hagrid ❤

Can you advise who skimmed the manifolds please. Nowhere local can do it. Thanks.

Keep the camera on the stand. I'm going dizzy trying to watch what you're doing. Place the camera in the correct place and make sure you're not working in front of it. It should be fine unless you need to take it off to show us some intricate part that you're going to weld. Apart from that, you're doing a good job. I am looking forward to more videos.

Apologiues for the rather shabby editiing, I had my head into the work and kept forgetting to film... 🙂

Making some nice progress mate. Watch out for hot sparks from your grinder on the cars glass. Cheers

When I did one I found low melting point silver solder to work very well. The tricky bit was keeping my hand steady with the solding iron Good effort sir

Has your workshop shrunk? seemed so much bigger when the Stag was in there

settled down in front of my screen with a nice warm cup of beer

Does it now work?

I owned an early Mk2 Auto in White for 15 years back in the day. Never let me down. Fantastic car. Looking for another but this time a Manual in Magenta ❤

When I rebuild a Stag engine, (had mine 31 years, done 330,000 kms in it, from 93 to 99 was my only/everyday car); I usually put the heads on in the car, as I find that easier. Engine goes in easier with the heads off as well/more clearance. Each to their own, but works for me. I have two short studs with screwdriver ends that go into the lower "short bolt" holes that locate the head gasket and the head will then locate on. Get the rest of the head bolts in, then undo those studs with screwdriver. I pulled out the ridiculous orig studs the first time I had my heads off (first year I had my car) and took a week to get them out, as corroded in. Lots of soaking with penetrene. I have probably disassembled half a dozen Stag engines, some were beyond saving (well, heads stuck in place, got them all off, but a couple beyond repair) but most came off, but some took forever and major drama to remove, but those studs just are NOT worth the hassle. I replaced mine with high tensile socket/allen head bolts, been in there since 1993, ALWAYS come straight off. Best thing I ever did. As said below, fit and torque one head, then fit inlet manifold, then fit other head. It's a juggling act, but always worked for me. And I have had a couple of inlet manifolds on mine with various intake combinations as experiments. It is back to std (orig CD's) now. Although first thing I did was put helicoils in all 12 inlet manifold bolt holes in the head. Nothing worse than last bolt (always the last one!!!) starts to "feel loose/never tighten" so you know it is stripped. Don't risk it, put helicoils in = never a problem. Good video though.

Great idea would never of thought of doing that .

Damned good job sir, a teacher may educate but all credit to you for your restoration

The camera is too far away so cant see what you were doing

17:51. Shouldn't be holed there. That's a structural area which transfers the suspension stresses into the bulkhead.

you can hear Richard talking in the background as the car is first running 😆

Brilliant video, my inlet manifold is sitting to high so so I will get it skimmed rather than drill the holes out. Thank you.

It's very dangerous to lift a P5B leaving the rear axle unsupported. Old rubber rear Y bushes can suddenly break away resulting in the whole very heavy running gear crashing down😮 The front calipers are OE Girling.

I had a triumph stag in 1983 loved it

Its so nice to see the old school ancillaries, so much better than the single use, plastic crap we see on the cars of today. Thanks for keeping this stuff alive.

Looks gorgeous, and the car, lol. Good luck!

Congratulations Chris, your stag sounds amazing mate. You can always post videos of your adventures with the car. Good stuff mate. Cheers

Excellent - I've been enjoying uour videos and I cheered as the engine started

Hi thank you very helpful

Great video, now I know how to take the C clip out. Thank you

I have built a few Stag engines. You fit & torque 1 cylinder head. You then loosly fit the 2nd head. Then the inlet manifold is fitted & torqued to both heads before finaly tightening the 2nd head. erly crushes the inlet manifold in place. To remove the inlet you have ti 1st slacken 1 cylinder head.

Nice job, can you tell me what speakers you used and whether you had enough depth.

Hi Chris, A massive piece of advise, you’ve had the crank re ground, have you had it Nitrided or at least tuftrided? The Stag crank is not a cast item like most cars, it is made of steel and factory Nitrided to give a case hardening, this gets ground off. As these are classic and hence old cars, modern engineering companies may not know and not harden the journals, you then assemble and carefully run in and in a thousand miles or less your crank is trashed. Please double and treble check with your engineer it could save your rebuilt and expensive engine. 👍

Hi I think your channel is great ,Thank-you. Can you do an instuctional video on the instalation of a new Distributor on my Triiumph V8 engine ,to include posiotion of Rota Arm. At TDC. Kind Regards.Barrie.

On a rebored standard engine the ring end gap should be on the low end of the limit?. Maybe on an engine used for racing you should be wider. ?

A major problem with the Triumph Stag was extremely poor airflow through the radiator. You can fit a double core radiator and it still overheats. The solution is air outlets behind the wheel arches. It’s definitely not factory original but you’ll now get air flowing through the radiator.

Interested in were you got the Cometic head gaskets, their website doesn’t have them shown?

Interested in the head gaskets you use. Making some good progress with your build. I've had 8 months reliable motoring out of my present stag, even with the Australian summer heat it never overheated, I've only had ignition problems which are sorted now, theirs a lot of truth about using them as my engine sounded like an old biscuit tin when I got it, but now sounds really good, also going to convert the the canister oil filter to spin on in the near future. Cheers

Yep watch with interest, when we look at the engine quite simple ,, built with care should last for years , built motors recent and worked on them in the day , no problems , the very early stags had dodgy cooling expansion bottle via the rad cap , thanks for sharing look forward to next episode !

Haha, 'a really good fit without using sealant as it would have come out of the factory'. I love the Stag I have one) but I'm pretty sure a really good fit is better than the factory managed

Hi John Super Glue Elastic 20g Black... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D4FYZ7N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hi, great video, I have a split in my dash too, could you put a link in for the elastic 4410 glue please, I can’t find it anywhere Thx

Great video this job is a real struggle when on the car, never thought to remove brake back plates, well done.