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You can see the full schedule at: www.uidaho.edu/extension/news/get-the-dish. We'll include this in future video descriptions; thanks for the suggestion!

Here's a link to an easy vegan sausage link: minimalistbaker.com/easy-vegan-sausage-links/.

If you are looking for a cream of mushroom soup substitution, here is a great recipe that you can try yourself at home: tastyhealthyheartrecipes.com/a-la-cart/soups/low-sodium-cream-of-mushroom-soup/#.

I think most do not follow the plating recommendations,it would be extremely time consuming to plate in that way every time we want to eat. & counting calories is another nightmare.

@@nanabarker8140 Agreed. We hope the session encourages participants to think about portions when they are choosing meals, snacks, drinks etc.

I'm sorry this question slipped past me. The advantage with both of these treatment options is that you don't have to worry about chemical residue or pre-harvest intervals. Surround is kaolin clay, which acts as a repellent. But as the fruit grow in size the effect of the clay is diluted and weather will remove it, so frequent re-treatment will be necessary. It should reduce codling moth damage to a certain extent, but you will still see significant infestation. A healthy soil will have beneficial nematodes in it. These will work on the larvae that drop to the soil to pupate. Not all the larvae make it all the way to the ground and will pupate under the bark flakes of the trees. Another problem with relying on them is that they have no effect on the adults that are flying in the air, coming from wherever. By the time the larvae are in the soil they have already done their damage. Using these as part of a total integrated pest management approach is a sound practice, but don't rely only on just them.

The 2023 USDA Climate Zone Map indicates your area to be zone 7a. Keep in mind there is variation from year to year, and even within your neighborhood. Carrots germinate best when soil temperature is 55-75F. In the Boise area you should be good planting carrots late March or early April. A soil thermometer is a helpful tool. You measure the temperature about 1 inch deep at noon. Thank you for watching.

The short answer is, no. You don't need to buy new seeds every year for most plants. I buy new onion seeds every year. Here is a longer answer--Length of seed viability and germination rate is affected by several factors. Most recommendations are from 1 to 5 years, depending on storage conditions and genetics. Here is a guide from Colorado State University extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/storing-vegetable-and-flower-seeds-7-221/. The best storage conditions for seeds is cool and dry. Under ideal conditions you can store most seeds for several years and still get good germination. Some seeds do not store for more than a year. That being said, I have seeds I have stored for over 10 years and still get reasonable germination from them. I store my seeds in a sealed plastic bag, in a dark, cool location and have had good success.

If more people request native plants the nurseries are more likely to carry them. If you can’t get local nurseries to carry the native plants, the best source for improved native plants is Native Plants, Inc. down by Twin Falls.

You can see the list of topics and register to attend here: www.uidaho.edu/extension/news/get-the-dish.

The Johnny's Seed spreadsheet can be found here: www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/online-tools-calculators.html?glmmftrdlst . And the spring planting chart is here: www.uidaho.edu/-/media/UIdaho-Responsive/Files/Extension/publications/bul/bul965.pdf?la=en.

Also,how do I sign up for the next extension program?

My experience was part of my graduate studies at the UI Caine Teaching Center in Caldwell circa 1982-3. There was a study of a vaccine to prevent abortion caused by either Vibrio or trichimoniasis I forget which. I had to also collect the placentas which were examined by microbiologists on the study. There were no stillbirths and I think only one bum lamb which got adopted by one of my coworkers.

Hi Carla, Thanks for watching. It depends on which type of thistle you have. The biennial thistles, such as musk thistle, bull thistle and Scotch thistle, can be controlled, eventually, if you keep them from going to seed. The things I talk about in this video will work. Canada thistle is a different beast. It is a creeping/spreading perennial. You still need to keep if from going to seed, but you also need to kill the root. If you are willing to use herbicides timing becomes the critical factor. You will get the best response if you spray the weeds in the fall, about mid-September. In the meantime, you still need to keep it from forming seeds. The best non-herbicide technique is to starve the roots to death. This will take a couple of years. Every two weeks you need to dig up all the little thistles, pulling as much of the underground stem as you can. The roots will use up all its reserve trying to grow new shoots. If you let them go past two weeks the new shoots will start to send reserves back down to the roots--constant diligence is required. Sorry I don't have a better answer. It's not an easy fix.

Hi Paul- we suggest you reach out to Kyle Nagy at the Sandpoint Organic Agriculture Center for assistance: knagy@uidaho.edu. Thanks!