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@@thediplomasta5891 thanks for the tip, I'll get me some of that PTFE teflon grease 👍

Thanks for that information @Big Duphus AJ, very useful. Take note everyone.

It's not my boat so my experience of sailing it is fairly limited. However I have been out on it in 20+ knots and it seemed pretty dry, most spray blows to leeward. Plus the central pod provides shelter.

@@nickmartinxxx thanks for your reaction. There are two of these very interesting boats for sale. I'd like to do North Sea crossings ans would like to know how it behaves in windy conditions with waves. Could you ask the owner to comment?

You're joking right? So contaminate the surface resin? Don't put fish oil aka wd40 or silicone near West Systems genuine epoxy resin or any other type epoxy be it Poly or Vinyl type resin. Why would you use wd40 to get the screw threads imprinted? You can use the screw itself with some fresh wetted epoxy on it and even leave it in so it becomes an unbelievable level of bond. You can epoxy a screw in place then unscrew it once cured, stick some wet epoxy on it and it will bond amazing too. If you are fixing the fittings areas like in this vod where a hinge or any sort of marine fitting is going then you are best sanding back the local area where the fitting is to bare glass, then you lay a soak coat of straight epoxy, then you throw on some glass cloth to give you a new surface, sand that back and apply a thin barrier coat then sand to the grit you need for your paint. From there you can put the screws or bolts in a freshly drilled hole. At no point would you ever contaminate the entire area with WD40 mate, WD40 is banned from my shop and I'm a 4 decade boat builder I've built over 120 boats. Wd40 doesn't belong near a non-mechanical repair shop and should be nowhere near any project involving glue and paint.

@@bigduphusaj162 What I ended up doing was filling the screw hole with slow set epoxy. aka 5 hour cure. As that is stronger than the quickset stuff. I then coated a screw with chapstick and wiped off the excess. Then I stuck the screw down into the epoxy and used a q-tip to wipe up the squeeze out. Then let it sit for a few days and it unscrewed just fine. I tested several different lubricants and found chapstick worked the best. I didn't test not coating the screw, but I probably should have to see if I could unscrew it after the epoxy had cured.

​@@colt5189 you don't need to do any of that. If it's proper epoxy (not polly or vinyl) then you can effectively drill an oversized hole and let it cure before drilling out a hole the same size or 1mm down if its a cheap drill that wobbles, stick some epoxy in the hole or bead it up on the hole if gravity is against you, soak your screw in epoxy and screw it in lightly till it holds your fitting flush and no more, at that point walk away as you're done. It's really that easy mate I'm not joking you here this is how we get every screw flush and even the heads pointing the same direction (slot heads especially you need them all facing the same direction for the professional look) When bonding screws or even anchor screws using proper Epoxy resin you just need to get it tight enough to hold your fitting in so you can even get seals/beads/secondary bonds all seated nice and flush and level and all the screws are uniform. All this trying to get a thread to hold in epoxy is because people don't understand the epoxy itself.

Hi Hans. Yes it is an Imagine GRP boat. Sailing without a roller furler sail would be fine. I used to have a Tiki 21 with a hank on jib and it was no problem. The roller furler is convenient. The spinnaker is perhaps a bit small for this boat, I don't know the dimensions but would guess the luff is 7.5 metres and the foot is 4 metres

On reassembly or disassembly? On disassembly the shaft was pulled right through the impeller housing when it was pulled from the lower unit. On reassembly the impeller housing slides down over the shaft. Hope that helps

@@nickmartinxxx Hello Nick, I have the same problem and am looking to follow your lead here. However, I have removed six retaining bolts from under the bottom of the cowling, as well as a couple of others that I removed just to be sure. I also removed a couple of bolts from inside the cowling but the power head wont budge. Any ideas? I found four smaller bolts fitted downwards on the inside of the bottom cowl and removed the two I could reach but the other two are under the power head and couldn't possibly be reached without the powerhead being lifted. The ends of the two bolts are visible under the lower cowl and I thought of drilling them out but thought to take advice first. Hope you can help, James

​@jamesconnolly2915 It sounds like you got all the bolts, as long as you removed the lower unit already. You just gotta work it back and forth, carefully. Base gasket is stuck good. Use a rubber mallet to bop the flywheel left and right, while prying in a safe spot, again carefully. Don't use a lot of force, just keep working it. Aluminum stuff may as well be made of play-dough. I did this procedure literally yesterday on a 1975 9.9 johnson. Now I'm up to the stuck driveshaft part. 😮‍💨

Sure, how do you want to go about this?

It's a while ago now. Max speeds that day maybe 10 knots when surfing a wave. It will go faster, we've got upto 16 knots before. But when you average everything out, I'd say the cruising speed is about 5 knots, pretty much the same as the average yacht.

Yea, that's brilliant, great idea. Cheers

Would you drill the holes out, pour epoxy in, and then set the nut inserts in the wet epoxy and let dry?

Gluing in oak dowels would be a good way to do this is think, that way you can put in a normal wood screw. 🤔

​@@ross52066 yeah you can do that or tape peel ply to one side of the hole or fiberglass over one side. Just as it gets sticky and strong pour straight epoxy or epoxy mixed with a little bit of thickner of choice preferably under 5% to stop it getting brittle, then redrill the holes and bolt it in. It will be massively stronger than the original fitment. If your talking sheer compression capability when you torque the bolt down tight AF then the epoxy is absolutely solid as it gets.

​@@TheNinja691 if he knew what he was doing the proper epoxy fix would have took a half hour and been 100x stronger than any wood. Even the fitting could have been bonded with epoxy and that alone would have ludicrous levels of bond. This is an easy fix made hard and what people need to remember is you can just drill an oversized hole with even a countersink bit just countersink the entire plug area out, plug it with epoxy pouring it slow making sure to get all the air out, let it cure then drill a hole likely 1mm down from your screw size if you haven't got a good drill or good drill bits... or drill exacltly the diameter of the screw and wet the screw and the hole then screw it in jusy till it snugs up and no more. The epoxy resin itself will bond up like nothing you've ever seen and the screw will be hard to remove no joke it will need cracked off. The beauty of doing it the correct way is you are only really having to get it tight enough that you feel it holding your fitting down nice and flush so you have plenty of leway to wind the screws down another half turn and line screws up perfectly so all the screwheads especially flat/slot headed are all facing in the same direction so you have a nice professional look. They will all bond up the same even if one screw isnt that tight at all because all you're looking to do is get the fitting on there flush and even and let the epoxy do its job bonding the screw up. I'm a 4 decade boat builder this is how we get all the screw heads lovely and flush no angled out heads and get the screws all uniform as far as the head type. Do it right and you only need to do it once in 30+yr I'm not joking

@@bigduphusaj162 4 decade boat builder? 😳 I bow to your knowledge sir 🙌

This was probably our final fling Rod before our boats get put to bed too

Being somewhat ignorant of handicapping, all I know is that Exe Sailing Club uses a home made system as we are such a disparate group of boats, mostly quite ancient. It might be loosely based on the Portsmouth Yardstick system possibly? Anyway the ratings were Tiki 26 1010, Tiki 21 1020, winning boat 1110.

Sure is. Where are you based?

it did! now the housing on the powerhead is stuck, so I can't replace the oil seals. Saltwater really does a number on these outboards.

Yes, it's a beautiful boat but it doesn't belong to me, I was just one of the crew, so can't promise any footage of inside. Sure, the owner, Rory McDougall, would be fine with taking it across the Atlantic. I think he plans to replace the inner webbing straps with convention lashings due to the higher stresses at these points. Hope that answers your questions.

Yes it does.

I think an aluminium mast would be more durable, immune to rot.

Can't quite read the gps screen but in this video maybe maxing at 9 knots. Fastest ever though was 19 knots.

Hi Enrico, no spinnaker pole required, the beam of this catamaran makes one unnecessary. Glad you enjoyed the video.