วีดีโอ

5w-30 full synthetic Valvoline engine oil. You are welcome.

The first days, I would easily see 5 or more stuck to the electric grid, amongst other flying bugs, such as moths and gnats. Sometimes it was difficult to tell exactly which ones were mosquitoes. Now, I just try to keep the grid clean, to make sure there is no obstruction, to allow the mosquitoes to get electrocuted. To keep the zapper clean of dead bugs... after cutting grass, I blow the bug zapper off with my electric leaf blower. Overall, the most important part is the Octenol. I have used 2 different brands; both worked well, but you need to keep the octenol fresh/changed (every 30 days). Before putting the zapper up, my daughter and I could not even walk back there for a few minutes (in daylight; middle of the day). She got bitten all over her legs one day. After I got bitten on my arms, hands, AND my face twice, while fighting them off (horrible)... I decided I had to do/try something. The zapper has made a big difference. I used the additional solar panel, so that I can have it running ALL day long and a good portion into the late night. The panel that comes with the zapper, is simply not enough. I was back there yesterday for about 5 minutes and did not get bitten at all (impossible before). Keep in mind, this is not a perfect solution, simply because it cannot get rid of all mosquitoes. In my case, though, it has helped dramatically.

Awesome, glad it was helpful.

Yes, your brother is very lucky! Glad he was not seriously hurt. Eyes/vision is very precious and delicate. The guy I mentioned in the video... he was having trouble with batteries going bad. He had a large stereo system in his car and modified charging system with higher output alternator. He went outside to remove the battery to bring it in for testing/buy a new battery and to turn it in as a core. He had his car at the front door, because he was afraid to turn it off when he arrived (because the battery was bad; car may not start). I walked outside (to go to a outdoor coke machine) as he was disconnecting the battery and heard a pop. He immediately started screaming... I was about 10 feet away when this happened. He had battery acid all over his face! Coworkers, bystanders, and I immediately started rinsing him with water/dumping water all over him, but his mouth was pouring blood. Parts of the plastic housing of the battery flew out like blades and cut his face. Pieces were embedded in his cheeks/mouth/lips. Luckily the pieces did not go into his eyes (just some acid; but acid was all over his mouth/cheeks). I know he still had vision when medical attention arrived. The good thing is... we were located just a few blocks from the main hospital. Ever since that day... I am cautious around batteries.

You are welcome. Glad you got it fixed!

Awesome! Glad the fix worked for you. Great job! The screw has enough projected surface area (against the plastic disks), that it will not likely ever fail again.

You are welcome

Hello Todd, That is awesome! It is crazy thinking how many people over the years, might have had this same problem, and threw out a decent dryer, just because of a timer issue. I purchased several timers and evidently, they all had this issue. I kept/fixed 3 of them (one installed; have 2 others fixed/ready as back-ups). Yes, that dang snap ring is a pain. Anyway, glad the fix worked for you!

You are welcome, glad it helped!

I believe the wire you are referring to is the DC source (to supply the alternator). It goes from the 2 wire plastic connector, to the B terminal on the ignition switch. From the ignition switch, the wire goes to the (-) terminal of ammeter gauge. From the (+) terminal of the ammeter, the wire goes through a fuse holder. The wire becomes red at the fuse holder and goes to the hot side of the starter solenoid. Wire from that hot side of the solenoid go the (+) terminal of the battery, of course. Hope that helps. Update: found an online diagram. Look at page 14: www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Murray-Models-1968-Thru-1989/84-36523.pdf

Glad it helps.

That's awesome that you have one! This mower is from about 1986. I have been cutting grass with it since I was a kid. They are great mowers, and if you do a little basic maintenance, they will last a lifetime. Due to sentimental reasons and simplicity, along with my stupidity, I would not trade this one for any new mower. I actually have another riding mower, but prefer this old Murray.

It is a bug zapper, which contains a fluorescent bug zapper bulb. Bug zapper bulbs are usually in the uv light range (up to about 380nm), to attract bugs.

It looks like electrical tape, but it is actually the lamp's warning label. The label is covered with black paint & powder coating overspray. Years ago, I used that lamp with a IR heat lamp bulb to help dry/cure paint, on machined products.

Yes, it seem like as time goes on... many manufacturers are making things more complicated/difficult. Planned obsolescence in some cases, and/or difficulty to prevent people from easily servicing things themselves. As an example, just look at the complexity of new cars. Life does not have to be this way. I try to surround myself with simplicity.

Yes, the fans are still working fine. No noise and no issues.

Glad the info helped.

You are welcome!

Just curious, how did you find that the coil?

@@robertb.6526 Initially, I spent hours trying to figure out how the timer kept getting voltage. The dryer still worked so it was no big deal, we just pulled the breakers after every use. Then last week it started giving poor heat so i pulled the back off the dryer and found the thermal cutout (the one at the top of the heater box) was open. So i replaced it and when I flipped the breakers back on I noticed the heater was on! So I took the heater off and that's when I discovered one of the coils shorting to the case.

Rick, thank you for your reply and congratulations on finding the issue with your dryer. I’m personally going give up on mine. It’s almost 44 years old 😁. I think that’s a good lifespan for a close dryer. Thanks again. I will be shopping for a new one,it’s time.

@@robertb.6526 44 years old. Wow! Parts can be tricky to find for an oldie like that. What's the problem with it anyways?

The knob On the timer where I turn it to the time for the clothes to dry it just gets stuck whatever time I set it for and it does not rotate. I tried Put in a screw to tighten the plates, but it didn’t help. It’s probably the It’s just worn out, the gears maybe, I don’t hear them clicking when I turn the knob like I did when it was working. They don’t make that part anymore, Sometimes I see some that are selling at eBay. They probably rebuilt, and this is 50-50 chance it won’t work. I’m just done with it.

Yes, sorry about the shakiness. My 10 y/o little boy was excited and wanted to assist. It was his first time helping. When kids want to get outside and help, we need to promote their interests and motivation.

I can hear the ting sound when raising volume or opening and closing of it

This Murray has been a great mower. I never would have thought it would cut so much grass in its lifetime, and last most of mine. I have replaced the spindle bearings on this mower, in the past. You are correct, the factory Murray spindle housings do not have grease fittings. Please note that even spindle housings with grease fittings are almost useless with some sealed bearings. This is because grease will not easily get past the bearing side seals, when you pump the housing full of grease. I would recommend modifying/removing the bearing seals that face towards the grease fittings. The next time I replace those bearings, I am going to attempt to do that and 1) drill & tap the housings for grease fittings, or 2) will purchase housings with grease fittings (about $30-$50 per set). I believe if you search "Murray Spindle 24384", those may be what you need. Please double check the parts/part number before ordering though. Overall, my main focus is serviceability and keeping things simple in life.

@@bobbilly351 Could you do a Tutorial video on how to take the spindle apart to get to the bearings I just would really really hate to ruin it.

Hello @davidruiz5383, Glad to hear that you are interested in learning. I think that is great... especially repairing things. This keeps items from going into landfills, saves you money, and makes you less dependent on others. To answer your question: No, I left the solenoid to starter cable connected when trying to start the mower. The solenoid is simply a relay switch that allows the starter to receive full current from the battery, when the key switch is turned. If the solenoid didn't exist, the key switch would have to carry the full current, which it cannot do (it would melt/burn up). The power therefore, goes from the battery, though the solenoid, to the starter. Note: On some automotive starters, the solenoid (which is mounted on the starter) also make the bendix gear engage. That is not the case on this starter/solenoid setup, however. Hope this info helps.

Awesome! Glad it worked for you. You are welcome.

The bug zapper was brand new (only a bit over a month old), when the bulb quit working. It is used as an indoor unit only, to kill any mosquitos or moths that happen to get inside the building at night. I have bright lights inside the building. When working in there at night, a few get in when I go in/out through the walk-in door. I have a smart switch to turn on the zapper late at night when the lights are off, to kill those bugs. I do keep the bottom cover/catch tray clean/dumped. If the zapper was outside, it would be covered with bug debris. I have two other outside bug zappers that I constantly have to keep clean with a leaf blower.

You are welcome. Awesome! Happy to hear that!

You are welcome.

You are welcome

You are welcome

Yes, I chose the power steering pump for the video because you can easily watch the fluid level going down. When evacuating a transmission or oil pan, it the same exact process, except there is a lot more fluid and you cannot watch it's level going down (because you cannot see down the dipstick tube). Just wait for the air bubbles to know when it is done. Also, I usually mark the small hose with piece of tape (using the dipstick to compare), to know how far to push the hose down into the dipstick tube. If you look carefully in the video, you will see a piece of masking tape on the hose, from a few weeks ago, when I pumped out a transmission.