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That one did turn out nice! Almost should have kept it

True 😆. I’m going to put this to the test! Got 90 days to return it lol

In theory I guess, not usually the best idea to weld on the crank.

That’s the factory kick starter

I battled this very same common carb issue with these machines. It is definitely due to the needle and seat not making a proper seal causing fuel to leak past when the carb is full of fuel. I tried everything from a new float needle, metal polish on a Qtip in a drill, to lightly tapping the seat with a ball bearing to reform the brass seat....nothing worked. I eventuality gave up and adapted a factory used ebay carb from a late 90's early 2000's Honda foreman 450 to work. Other than modding the carb/cables for the kawi controls to work, the only thing I had to play with was the idle jet.

It sure is handier than a pile of chains!

I believe it's just common to the 400s.

We bought it through Amazon. We could also order it through Honda, but the wait time would have been a few weeks.

I just sold it a few weeks ago. Hated to sell it but just didn't have the time to use it. Happy trails!

You are welcome, glad to keep these old machines ticking. I had a assortment of keys, and shaved one to fit right.

I suppose the question is, what causes the key to shear in the first place? I've read of instances where the plastic oil pump gear spins on the shaft therefore not driving the pump, but this is the first time I've heard of a sheared key. Was the oil pick-up screen torn by chance also letting chunks of debris into the oil pump?

The best way is to tame one thing out of the equation at a time. So main ground connection, wire harnesses ect. These have a bad spot on the steering column for rubbing through.

@@millennialmechanic thanks so much! ☺️ I will start the process & see how it goes

This is the 2 stroke

Motor parts need to be fined used or nos. Getting harder and harder to find internals for these gems.

You'll need to loosen the front diff to make room to pull drive shaft off.

You can remove a snap ring on the shaft that allows a collar to slip towards the transmission. There is a spring in between the splines from the front diff, and the front driveshaft front splines. Then the front shaft comes right out, and you can service your u-joint easily. At least this is how it is on my 1996 Bayou 400. He was dead right though, I took it all apart just to check and sure as could be the key is sheared for the oil pump gear. Thanks for the heads up!

Unfortunately this bayou is off with it's new owner, who knows what will be in next, have a few Hondas and Suzukis sitting on the shelf.

You'll have to try scrap yards. Most of the parts are discontinued for these unfortunately.

Check ebay also , I have seen used ones there.

Yes that is common problems in any engine, in this one it's the shearing of the pump gear key. Every 400 I have torn down, it is sheared. Clean screens and oil.

I just rebuilt my 400 top end all new gaskets and now it’s leaking coolant into the crank case. Would you suspect head gasket? Milky oil being pushed out of crank case vent tube when running I’ll be testing the oil pump today to see if it’s functioning by pulling a line off and briefly running the motor

Will it start and run? If so, does white smoke that smells like coolant come out of the tail pipe? Open the coolant reservoir and look down in the fill hole. When you crack the engine or while it’s running, do bubbles come up into the coolant reservoir? If the answer is yes, you have a head gasket issue. Did you check the flatness of the head using a machinist edge? The max out of flat you are allowed on the head is 0.002” measures with s feeler gauge. The head has to be flat or the head gasket is worthless. I would also recommend getting a copper head gasket or coating the regular head gasket with copper coat, which will help the gasket seal. The head and deck much be flat in order for any head or copper coat to work. I would highly recommend buying a Clymer manual for this quad so that you can do a head job the correct way.

@ ​​⁠ Starts and runs great. No coolant smell from exhaust. I only get coolant bubbles when it’s warmed up. I’m assuming when the thermostat opens. Do you still think it would be head gasket? To be honest I didn’t check the faces before reassembly.

If there is bubbles in the coolant reservoir during start-up and you have milky/bubbly oil, it sure sounds to me like you have coolant getting past your head gasket. During startup, the compression from the engine pushed gases past your head gasket. As the engine heats up, I suspect the leakage gets worse. It cannot be ran like this as coolant in the engine will ruin bearings. During a top end rebuild there are some very specific steps to get the engine right. A calibrated torque wrench needs to be used, the head bolts need to have moly disulfide grease in certain places for lubrication during torquing, torquing is done in two stages in a certain pattern, the head and deck have to be totally flat or within 0.002”, and a copper head gasket or copper coated head gasket needs to be used. If you get a good seal, there will be no coolant in the oil and no air bubbles in the coolant reservoir during startup or running. I don’t sell Clymer manuals or get anything for recommending them. They produce a great manual for this Bayou 400 which I have used mine until the pages are worn and I don’t think a proper engine rebuild could be done without one.

Yes this is with some budget equipment. Quite a few years ago. Sorry about that.

Nothing wrong with that, have the oil injection disconnected and mix away.

@@millennialmechanic thank you for the answer

46 or 56 do t remember

That's fast for a 250

55 mph or so

I believe it was a 1996

@@millennialmechanic 👍 I have one in the same color and was wondering

Does this have the Demand 4 drive switch and what does it do?

@@dustinserbin3054 no it’s a 2wd model I have that same one and it doesn’t have it

Take care of it and it will take care of you! Be sure to update your motor mounts to Rick's solid mounts or prowler solid mounts!

@@millennialmechanic just curious as to the reason?

@@ckasensei1971 the factory ones wear fast and allow to much movement. Cracking cases or intakes

@@millennialmechanic awesome!!! thanks for the heads up!!! are they difficult to find and change?? just learning!!!

They are not difficult to change. Use ricks bushings in the states. Or you can order solid prowler engine mounts.

It is around 70-80kph. I don't think I fully clocked it.

Yes they should smoke Slightly. If it's not your oil pump may have failed. To much smoke, can be the same issue.

@@millennialmechanic ride easy for just a couple minutes to complete warm up and you will double, triple engine life.

@@millennialmechanic anyway I can block off the pump without having to get a kit from RCR so I can just mix my gas?

You want to check it every tank. It should be able to do 3 tanks of fuel to a tank of oil roughly. But always good to top up. And yes they do have a shut off. Left side of atv when sitting on it.

@@millennialmechanic awesome, thanks!

It sure did!

If I remember correctly, it was drum all around.

Always is ready to ride!

They sure are, I loved the zillas, just wanted more lug and radials. So the sludghammer was the awnser.

doublek441 I have had it since new. 2014. Few minor issues. Biggest issue I've had is shown in another issue with my seconddary clutch. I'm going to rebuild and clock it. Turns the 30s no problem stock.

Thank you! Check out my newer videos! New cameras are helping. Thanks for the feedback

Thank you. And I have got a new camera that has a higher fps. So they should get better while moving.

+Mackenzie P Glad I could help!