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I've heard good things about that kit, but haven't used one myself.

I haven't done a video yet, but I will add it to the list. Anything in particular you want answered?

I mean, that's a very accurate rifle. I don't think it's going to get much better than that. Even Kenny states "We guarantee this rifle WILL shoot .300'' or better at 50 and sub 1'' at 100 yards Using SK Rifle, Lapua Center-X / Midas+, Eley Tenex / Match.We recommend lot testing for best results" So, you're right in line with the custom builds.

This rifle was kind of a prototype to see it prefits were a viable option. Given the variance in actions he has decided to only offer barreled actions. Since this video he has also developed a new technique that creates a treaded barrel and threads the action instead of thermal fitting. You can check out the process on his TH-cam channel. This video in particular does a great job of highlighting the work he does for the CZ457: th-cam.com/video/iL_S2U8eYJw/w-d-xo.html If you're looking for a prefit solution, Lilja and Modacam are the more premium options. More affordable options like Widden, Pete's Pillars, and EABCO are some options.

Great idea I may try that👍

With the rail being so heavy I went with T-Nuts. This requires pretty precise drilling into the stock so it's best if you have access to a drill press. I wasn't confident that wood screws would last long term. I used one of the existing holes where the sling stud went and then added two more. I used a 0.75 (3/4") Forstner Bit: amzn.to/477J55M and Stainless Steel T-Nuts: amzn.to/3Z8uMMm The T-Nuts are threaded #10-24 so you'll just need some corresponding hardware. I used hex head screws. #10 screws are narrow enough to fit through the mounting holes, just make sure whatever head size you get fits in both width and depth of the rail slots. Length of the screws will depend on your depth of cut. You want enough thread engagement, but not so much that the screw will touch the barrel when it's fully seated. I'm working on a video about Da'Rail and some weight I added to it (only necessary for me because I have a 1 pound TriggerCam attached to my scope, just using Da'Rail balanced my MTR very well). That should be out in a few weeks, but it's not too hard to do, just measure a bunch before you cut into the stock.

Glad to help!

Any time!

Thank you

Yeah, I don't think I have the patience to do it nor a scale that can measure power accurately enough. I do like the idea of the CuRx kit with super heavy bullets for ELR 22, but that is a project for another day.

I haven't seen a spread that large on a single rim in most of the match ammo that I have tested. If you're measuring a lot of rounds make sure that there is no lubrication residue on the rim/case or the surface of the measuring device that would give you a false reading. When measuring I also keep a towel nearby and wipe my fingers frequently to get the lube off of my hands. If the rim truly varies by that much the issue is that if you're loading from a repeater then you don't have a whole lot of control over which part of the rim will face the firing pin. On the other hand I've known very high-level benchrest shooters that will mark the high or low side of the rim and would always orient that mark to the firing pin position (usually the top of the chamber), but they are shooting single shot rifles. I would take a few (3 or 4) measurements by rotating the round a third or quarter turn and pick the middle/average. But that's just a thought, I don't have any testing that would back that up. For my purposes I am looking to get a general idea of rim thickness so I can match my headspace to the rim thickness or just a touch tighter than rim thickness. I do not sort for rim thickness because my main competition is NRL22/PRS style matches where pinpoint accuracy is not required. If other rims from the same lot show much lower variation then I would sort those and take the ones with high variation and use those for fouling/sighters. Great question. Sorry I don't have a better answer for you.

@@CopperStarPrecision Thanks for the detailed reply. I just started sorting and haven’t tested the results yet. Sorting Eley Team to start. Maybe Match will be more consistent. Settled on two groups for now, where the rotated cartridge is predominantly 0.038-0.0385 or 0.039-0.0395”. Using the rag for my hands 🙌. Maybe the build-up of lube is more of a culprit than I thought🤔. Observation: My Kimber 82g is not as ammo- finicky as the CZ457 and Lilja barrel with Yodave trigger kit. Down the shooters’ rabbit hole I go……again. Cheers.

Nice. I have found that it has helped with consistent ignition as evidenced by a slight decrease in SD/ES. I hope you find similar success. Either way the firing pin is a much higher quality part than the plated one from the factory.

Thanks. I always say that everyone has a plan until the timer goes beep haha. I think the key to being successful and getting better is to have a plan and to stick to it. Even if you need to slow down and time out on every stage, getting 6 shots off with solid fundamentals is better than rushing all 10 shots with poor form. Poor form will build bad habits, whereas if you always focus on good fundamentals, speed in build stable positions, speed in target acquisition/natural point of aim, and efficient movement will all get better with time/practice.

It's a Grey Birch La Cassis for the CZ 457 with 16" foreend.

CZ recommends that you do not dry fire the rifle. I have a modified firing pin that will not hit the edge of the chamber when dry fired so I feel safe doing it. I have a video about it here: th-cam.com/video/mSqf0UWGhUk/w-d-xo.html Technically the design of the regular firing pin is made in a way that the firing pin stop is in the rear of the bolt with a large retaining pin. Also, the firing pin is one single piece of strong metal. In my opinion, you're not going to damage the firing pin or bolt, but if the firing pin hits the chamber face of the barrel it may eventually cause damage. If you want to dry fire, I suggest using snap caps or drywall anchors like these: amzn.to/4e2BB6l to protect the rifle.

Happy to help. Get out there and practice so you can Score More Points!

Thanks again!

My pleasure!

Any time!

Here I'm running the Grey Birch La Chassis. They do make them in Rem700 footprint, and it weighs less than 3lbs. I got mine during a flash sale and it was like 40% off. Make sure to sign up for their emails, they have good sales now and then. Haven't seen a sale for Labor Day yet, but it may happen.

It's definitely super stable if your rail and bipod can accommodate it. You're basically building a modified prone position. You won't be able to do as much side-to-side movement so it is important to set your rifle down in the direction of the target. Once the rifle is settled, if I am off target I have even rotated the whole barrel to get on target. Your natural point of aim is key with this strategy.

Thanks for the heads up, I am hoping to source a barrel so I can practice.

Nice! Happy practicing!

Nice! My new CZ is down having a RH chassis machined for a LH action. 😢

@pevelyhomeowner327 nice, I waited over 3 weeks for a cerakote job it felt like 3 months 😅

In this video I have the Bushnell Match Pro 5-25x, but I am currently running the Riton 3 Conquer and have been using that the for the past month or so.

That is the ColeTac Mega Bag

Thanks!