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As far as I know YoDave only offers one spring for ~50% reduction in pull weight. I've seen Pete's Pillars offer a 5.2lb/in and a 9.6lb/in spring so maybe those are the two you're referring to. The adjustments I show in this video are for the crispest brake of the trigger, but it might not be the lightest. To get lighter you may need to give more "take up" by moving the trigger outwards or allow for more overtravel. Try making all of your adjustments with the trigger pull weight screw removed (the one with the nut on it). That will probably give you the theoretical lower limit of pull weight. Then replace the screw but just until it is touching the spring. Are you using a stronger firing pin spring? Some people report that you get a heavier pull with the stronger spring as it is increasing the contact force/friction between the sear and the firing pin. If you are, take it out and it should lower your pull weight. Other than that, polishing the internals is probably the only other choice. make sure there are no burs on the inside of the trigger housing and when you polish make sure you're not removing material where the geometry of the trigger components is changing. Seeing as it is a mass-produced part, you're kind of playing the trigger lottery. I've been able to get some down to 13-15 oz and others won't go lower than 19-20 oz. I have not polished any of my triggers though. Good luck, let me know how it goes.

@ Yes, Pete’s is what I have. 🤦🏻‍♂️ I’ve tried with the “pull weight” screw just barely threaded. I haven’t put a stiffer firing pin spring in the bolt, although I do have the cocking indicator from Pete’s. I’ll mess with the travel screws and se if that makes any difference. I really don’t want what I’d consider a “sloppy” trigger with there being a lot of pre or over travel. I’ll also try polishing internals. Might have to resort to a Timney if all else fails. Thx

I have not, but it works with my 10, 15, and 25 round mags. Not sure about the drum's mechanism.

The ProVarmint is a great option, and leaves you a little more room for a better optic to stay under the cost cap. However, I really like the MTR and it does have the chance at being more accurate than the standard barrel. The trade off is that it might be more picky on ammo. There are a few on GunBroker right now, so you shouldn't need to wait for one if you're in the US. But if you do need to wait, I think going with the ProVarmint and getting some range time/matches in will be more important than waiting months to start participating. The biggest learning curve will be getting stable on props and reading the wind and the accuracy of the rifle won't be what holds you back for a while.

Thanks again for your time!

The L3i extended mag release may not work with 5 round mags. I would go with all DIP (mag well, mag block, and the slightly extended aluminum mag release) if you are using the factory bottom metal.

@@CopperStarPrecision I use MTR chassis

@@CopperStarPrecision what is the reason that L3i won't work? it only has a long bottom part and the top is the same?

L3i may not work on the 5 round mags because the baseplate of the 5 round mag may prevent the latch from moving far enough to the rear to release the magazine. On the metal 5 round mags it's an even bigger issue. It shouldn't be an issue with the 10 round mags. It may work, but I can't promise that it will.

@@CopperStarPrecision Thank you

Yes, 10 round mags are the only ones that fit. The 5 and 25 do not.

We really don't use those timers in PRS. I think the max par time is 99.99 seconds. For club matches we've used simple kitchen timers like these: amzn.to/4gHtUnn If you're looking for something to record shots the SG Timer Go is pretty compact and affordable (might be out of stock now, but should be back in stock soon): alnk.to/7MaJaRt Other than that there are some older classic timers like the one from Competition Electronics or the CED 7000

@CopperStarPrecision That's what I thought as well. th-cam.com/video/nLmKrBymCbU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eohxvatmJzQT6X0G 2 of the Pact timers on a stick.

Yeah, all of those par times at the match you linked are 90 seconds. Some clubs use 90, 105, or 120 seconds so since some stages are over 99.99 we don't use those timers. If you're going to only do 90 second stages then it should work for you.

@@CopperStarPrecision Ok, now it makes sense. Thanks

Lot's of Airgun content coming in 2025. Basically it's a FX Panthera with a bunch of Saber Tactical bits bolted on. Running the Accu-Tac SR-5 Gen II. Lot's more videos coming soon!

Haha! That's a good one! I feel like I'm 90% there with my slug tune, but still haven't had a good opportunity to get DOPE out at distance past 100 yards.

I'm running Altaros slugs, 40 grain, 0.217 diameter, going about 915 fps. Between 155-160 bar on the regulator and around 3.5 on the hammer spring tension. I'll have a full review and tuning setup series of videos in the new year.

Since this rifle is manufactured in Europe the exact proper tool is probably a 3mm roll pin punch, but the 3/32" is close enough. This is the set I use: amzn.to/3DgG6gx For this specific task you're going to want a roll pin punch (the tips have a little dome on them). For other jobs like removing slotted spring pins, straight punches that are flat on the top are better.

@@CopperStarPrecision Thank you for the video and the reply.

All of the mods fall within the rules set. The rules are available at the NRL22 website. Welcome to the sport! Reach out if you have any questions.

That sounds like an excellent strategy. I'd further add to do those positions in a zig-zag pattern to minimize the movement even more. While I am not as stable on the higher positions, the benefit of added time from less movement means I could afford more time to stabilize before breaking the shot. Thanks for the input!

@@CopperStarPrecision We do have slightly different shooting styles, which is great. I only use a pump pillow if I feel like I need to (prone on a pyramid, shooting off a rooftop, etc). I treat it like the NRL version of rear tripod. Rather than using multiple bags to get the most stable position, I try to use speed and efficiency to quickly get in a position and use the time saved to try to get stable. My method works for me until it doesn't (I dropped 14 shots in the last two stages of an X match this weekend), I need to integrate more of your methods of achieving initial stability on unstable props, even if my internal clock is screaming at me the whole time to hurry up. I have to constantly remind myself that you can't outrun a miss. Timing out on the 10th shot is better than missing 7 shots in two minutes.

I'd look into a wedge shaped bag like the Armageddon Gear Game Changer or the MDT Peanut, but choose one with SpexLite fill which is a very light weight plastic bead fill. This makes it way more portable.

Thanks, glad to hear that you're enjoying the content.

Thanks!

Interesting. I have not delt with DIP customer service, but their magwell has been great for me (I'm also using their aluminum mag block and their slightly extended release in 2 other CZs, but I am using the 10 round polymer mags, not the 5 round ones). Yeah, the fit and finish of the L3i was very disappointing. I had to file mine for the mag release to be able to move as it should. It is still very tight and I have to make sure that the mag is fully seated otherwise it will fall out during bolt close. It almost has too tight of a tolerance. Everyone loves their 13 round billet mags and their bottom metal is very good. I think most people that don't have a chassis yet will go for the MDT Premier Gen 2 which addresses some of the issues you've mentioned. Thanks for the comment!

Mostly personal preference. If I was only shooting prone, I'd put the scope lower, but since most of our positions are from a more upright standing or kneeling position, I feel that I get a better and more comfortable head position with higher rings. While the 22 doesn't have very much recoil, higher rings do set the buttstock of the rifle deeper in your shoulder pocket making the rifle track better. I think this video is pretty informative: th-cam.com/video/kN-MjEku4uk/w-d-xo.html But if what you have is working then keep it the same.

Very true! I am wearing them under my pants. I like the padded volleyball kneepads. Good padding and unobtrusive. But I have chicken legs so they might not work for everyone.

That sounds like a great setup. I was running a Timney trigger in mine which I thought was very good and had a crisp break. Unfortunately, no aftermarket triggers allowed for Base Class in 2024. The Ruger will be making a return to the channel very soon. It's a great rifle for the sport.

I can definitely see how the larger trigger well would be nice in those conditions!

You're welcome!

I use a Boretech bore guide and 20 caliber rods (Boretech and J. Dewey) with a tread adapter for a 22 cal jag. 22 rimfire is usually a little tighter than other 22 calibers (like an AR) so that is probably why you're seeing scratches.

They all have the same footprint so they should. I know the L3i works in the Manners stock.

That was going to be my question, can a 5 round mag still be used in the tall one-piece L3i bottom metal. Thank you for the info.

True, to an extent. I works with the factory 10 round mags, which you can turn into 13 round mags with the Anarchy Outdoors extensions which is what I do. It will not work with factory 5 round mags (too small) or the factory 25 round mags (too wide). But L3i has billet 13 round mags that are compatible.

5 round mags will not work in the L3i bottom metal, but do work in the Anarchy Outdoors.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

Unfortunately, not that I know of. Area 419 has a bundle deal with their Arca mount for $700, but I haven't been able to find just the chrono for less than the $599 MSRP.

Eurooptic has a deal where they pay the sales tax if you buy the Garmin

Nice! Eley does recommend 0.040-0.041 headspace for their match ammo. I have found that my CZ's hate Eley until I shim the bolt to a tighter headspace around that range.

Mine likes SK Rifle Match and SK Long Range Match. The CZ is probably the more accurate rifle, but I soon will be releasing a series of videos on simple modifications to the Ruger that has the potential to make it more accurate.

@@CopperStarPrecision will those modifications take it out of the base category?

Not personally, but I know two fellow competitors that use them and like them. If you're not experiencing any issues then you don't really need them, but if you're someone with a custom barrel that won't extract live rounds with the factory extractors or you want a backup pair, these would be the ones to get.

It's this one from Tekton: amzn.to/417mx4g

I'm assuming the scope you're referencing has a 30mm main tube size. I ended up with some Vortex Tactical rings (High - 1.18 inch) when I was doing this video which run about $50 for the pair and are available on Amazon: amzn.to/4eKjBO9 For budget builds I've been recently using Discovery Optics rings. They have two types, 7075 aluminum and 6061 aluminum. These are the higher end ones and are on sale for $32 on Amazon (if you're using a 30mm scope tube I would go with their 1.26 inch medium rings): amzn.to/3YZRyo5 I think they are cheaper on Amazon, but check their website as well. They have 15% their normal price for black friday and you should be able to get 10% of anything anytime with code "copperstarprecision" I plan on having a review of their scopes and rings out soon. I've been pretty impressed from a value perspective. I think those are your best options under $50. If you want something made in the USA you're looking at $100 all the way up to $200+

An Arca rail definitely allows for more creative positions in these kinds of stages.

It's kind of a grey area. My interpretation is that this is legal adjustment (spring weight) to the factory trigger. The rule states that "Safe adjustments to the factory trigger are allowed but aftermarket triggers are prohibited". This isn't an aftermarket trigger and the trigger is still safe. However, the spring isn't a factory part, so I could see the argument going the other way as well. I agree that for Ruger you should be allowed to use their BX trigger since it is a factory offering. At the end of the day this only really matters if you have a very strict match director or if you are competing at nationals where there is a technical inspection. If you make internal modifications that aren't visual then you are probably fine, but a different trigger shoe might raise some flags. What they should do is clarify the rule to include modifications but then stipulate a minimum pull weight like other NRA matches do for specific competitions/classes. For example, in smallbore silhouette hunter class there is a minimum pull weight of 2lbs, but no banning of aftermarket triggers. I think the banning of aftermarket triggers (which only came into effect this year for base class) was a big misstep and a large reason that I am not using my Ruger this year. I will ask for clarification on the rules since I most likely will attend nationals and will want to make sure I'm in compliance. I will make a video about my findings.

DIProducts or L3i. Video coming soon.

Good eye. I got a warning after the stage.

Grey Birch

Any time!