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By any chance I really dont know how to design well and I would really like if you can put the stl in the description for all the springs because I would like to use the spring strip for one of my projects please and thank you.

Promo-SM

Can you send me the file to the final spring design? I need it for a school project

Nice video mate, printing/prototyping fast is a fun topic. Cheers

how do u need a brim? with my ender 5 pro I just hit print and after printing It's hard to get the print off (glass bed), is this a bambu lab thing, is it pei bed?

Great videos as always

I swear to god, at 1:16 I thought you inserted a photo of your actual build plate with fingerprints into the 3D model of the build plate in bambu studio, and then I realized it’s your monitor, you’re shooting your monitor, your monitor is dirty. 😂 no shade, was just brain broken for a sec there lol 🤯

Like for FreeCAD

How about using air as the spring? There would probably be no problem with deformation, if the walls are big enough. just getting is airtight is the most challenging on it. and its hard to make different strengths of the spring.

Thumbs up for freecad

How did you get a sponsor under 1k subs?

Now you have a life-revelation triggering paragraph that you can sent to any scammer. I enjoyed you mocking the scammer with you pretending to be them.

0:45 can you send me the file of the paper sticked to your printer there? This looks like a Manual how to operate a printer, can you please publish or at least give me this paper?

very nice video but get a grip on your emotions. it's embarrassing to watch you loosing it like that because of minor setback. Emotional intelligence is having it under check and full control and not acting impulsively like a woman or 3 yo ...

I recommend trying a high density TPU, or try one of the filaments that change hardness/elasticity based on what temp you print them at. there's also one like that made of something similar to TPU, but is more like a stiff rubber- sadly I don't remember the name makeup of it as I only saw it once, quite a while ago. Sintering your parts in powdered salt, sand, or talc might help also- not sure how badly it would affect the elasticity, but it would definitely reduce breakage/deformation.

If a company is afraid their expensive product can be 3D printed, they are selling some cheap plastic thing for way more than its worth.

I would use office rubber bands. They have specifications and you can buy more when they fail. #64 is a pretty common one.

What we can and cannot make work with the 3d printer technology? This kind of video make answers to that kind of question! Very nice, keep going!

god... i finally found i've been trying to contact you about your car's insurance for MONTHS duuuude !!!! ... u there ?

You can find stress strain curves for printed plastics online to design within specs to avoid plastic deformation or failures. There is still the creep curve which can be partially mitigated by not leaving it under load when not necessary. In the end it's all unreinforced thermoplastics, so nothing will be long lasting. If you keep the loads low you can make spring loaded clips that last long time.

Inner structure of material is very important to inner friction that result in heating and result in losses (hystheresis). Another point is the Young modulus as higher means stiffer, and stiffer means it can be really small to have the required stiffness (elasiticity) and the shape can contribute a lot to the travel done instead of pressing on a block of rubber, a helical spring will apply torsion on a very long coiled beam thus reaching the large deformation at the end under the low force applied. And of course tensile strenght is a very important factor. This dictates what range the spring is usable. So plastics, and rubber and wood have really low Young modulus or really low tesile strength or both. Spring steel is quite high (compared to plastics) on modulus like any steel and is particularly tough reaching 2000MPa at yield point and break point soon after (brittle failure mode). Both values are several orders of magnitude higher than any plastic. Also plastics suffer from high internal friction losses. This means even optimized shapes to only work the plastic in the elastic region.. would soon heat up past GTT and would fail or creep or get plastic deformation. Steel springs are cheap, readly available, can be made diy with some improvised mandrels for your custom need from piano wire or spring steel wire. I see this everywhere when someone is an avid woodworker he would make everything out of wood. A 3d printing enthusiast sees everthing solvable by 3d prints. A machinist sees only milled stocks. - Every extreme is bad. Each thing has it's upsides and downsides. Keep in mind cost and time is a downside, otherwise a CNC'd part out of steel would be the nobrainer, outperforming in every way. but the cost involved is another order of magnitude. Using the strength of each component makes for good design. p past GTT and would fail or creep or get plastic deformation.

You could make 3d printed tooling to easily make custom springs?

Try polypropylene for the spring.

Better and faster to make it this way. 1. Take a steel rod or a screw, wind filament around it tightly with even distance. 2. Secure the ends with some tape so it doesn't wind up. 3. Put it in the oven at 70-100°C to release the stress in the material and wait 10-20 minutes. 4. Remove the tape and take off your finished spring.

Springs made of square tubing are much stronger than round. It's still a round coiled spring, but the stock material has a square cross section instead of circular. You don't see them often in metal because they are expensive to manufacture, but it's just better.

Dd you just un like

use glass filled nylon

cool, but can you make it huge?

Bad idea to use a polyester for that application.

>Wants to push himself >Doesn't have a DIY CoreXY machine I scoff at the Bambu, but some distant part of me begrudgingly admits that half my prints are just printer mods instead of anything truly practical.

That trash bit... Dude.. Totally feel your pain! Been there too often

a few suggestions: did you try printing it sideways? i think your biggest problem migt be the layers.Try printing sideways(or tilted)so your layers are getting longer or maybe vasemode like, in one go/ 0.8 Nozzle... maybe you could publish you're file for us to help try =D

Awesome video

Which CAD do you use?

I wonder how 99D TPU will behave

I tried printing small springs a while ago, but kinda gave up on it. Too little travel and too much deformation making it unusable for my application.. Oh well, I guess you can't print everything.

Really, neat video, hope to see more!

WTF ?!@!?!?

Plesse try out tpu it goes good bsck to its shspe

Really I was searching for 3d printable springs when I built my 3d printed nerf magic wand, so this is very interesting to me! Thanks for the cool Video!

Yesss

Very enjoyable material to watch ❤. Although I'm wondering if you've tried different spring shapes like those with a square base

Nice choice of CAD software!

surely one prints an extruder former thingy ...

can you send the 3d print file to something like makerworld? it looks really cool and if you get enough downloads you can get stuff like gift cards for bambu lab

J'ai ri😂

Pla is not the greatest option, and petg is better, but not the best You can try with PC , ABS or even nylon

don't add the corners in the flat setup. also if you're designing the housing as well, you don't need to make it fit an existing string profile and space, you can make it a bigger bar type spring instead.

Good

There is a reason that even in metals, it's referred to as 'plastic deformation' still entertaining to watch the process though!