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@@scottChapman25 the clutch was the same all the way through TJ production so a standard clutch for your TJ will work. I used the Luk 05-065. The 05-901 should work too but you may notice a different engagement or pedal feel because that's the "heavy duty" version.

Thanks, also I'll have the stock 321 t case from the LJ. I'm calling advance Adapters tomorrow and see if I would have any issues.

@@carrizzle9586 no idea what it's actually rated for but after my modifications I get 27V on MIN and 35V on Max, measured between the ground clamp and the electrode.

@@freedomin4low344 Thanks. This might be a modification that I attempt on the future but wanted to know what voltage rating capacitors to use.

@@unclequack5445 it did not. Wouldn't unlock.

YES! Thank you for getting the reference! lol

@freedomin4low344 RSK my dude

The ball joint was worn out but the nut was also loose which allowed the taper to be loose in the mount. I seemed to have got lucky and caught it before it wallowed out the mount because a new stock track bar went right in nice and tight and I drove with it for 2 more years before upgrading to a Rockjock bar.

Yes, that should work. My usual hardware store jumped straight from 1-3/4 to 2" so I had to buy the 2" and grind a couple of threads off.

I find having the rear locked has a larger impact on my ability to turn, so if I could only have one end be selectable, I'd put the selectable in the rear.

Sorry, yes I sold it to someone wanting to rebuild it.

The nose of the input shaft didn't change, so all the clutch parts and pilot bearing are the same. I could have left all my clutch stuff in there but I figured I'd replace it while I had it open. You'll keep your nsg370 flywheel because it provides the correct signal for the CKPS.

A body lift or a transmission drop will both help with the CKPS clearance and won't cause any issues. Transfer case will bolt right up no problem. You can put your nsg clutch slave cylinder on the AX15 and keep all your clutch hydraulics, rods, levers, etc.

I think I got it all but feel free to reply if you have any other questions!

@@freedomin4low344 thank you so very much! After this deployment I’ll swap it out. I truly appreciate your answers and your channel! Long live the TJ! Haha. Thanks bro,

This one is not loud at all. I get an occasional audible pop when turning tight like in a parking lot. Otherwise the only way I can hear the ratcheting is if I'm running doorless and happen to be turning while I pass something like a wall or a big brick mailbox that bounces the sound back at me.

absolutely no issues, wish I had installed it earlier. Still don't notice it in 2WD except for a very occasional pop...I think it may even be smoother now than when it was new. Next time I install a lunchbox locker it will 100% be another Torq.

thanks for the comment! my original suspicion was that the LockRight I got was out of spec and their service just wasn't interested in entertaining that possibility, but I've heard from a handful of people that had the same experience so now I wonder if their spec is just too loose for a subset of lockers that are at the other end of Dana's tolerances. Your thought isn't off-base, because there may be carriers that are better suited for a LockRight while others are better suited for for Torq or Aussie. Philosophically I like the design of the Torq because the "pins" are part of the driver and inherently can't get sideways and bind up, and I think this makes for smoother operation, so if I were to do it again I would try Torq first, and if it was too tight, I'd try a LockRight. I have no complaints about the Coopers from a performance standpoint. It took a return trip but I did get them balanced well, they've stayed balanced, they've worn evenly, and though they're louder than they were when new, they're still far from the loudest mud tire I've heard. I haven't been able to confirm with a measurement but I believe they may be wider at the tread with a more squared shoulder than some competitors with a more rounded profile like a KM3. From a traction standpoint that would be beneficial but in my case I seem to get less steering angle before they contact the arm on my sway bar, compared to other tires on otherwise similar suspension/axle/wheel backspacing.

@@freedomin4low344 got ya.. I'm super bummed I can't find a torq locker for my 1998 ram 1500 9.25 rear end. It's just the lockright and a nitro gear unit as far as I can find. Eaton makes an auto locker (Detroit - but not "Detroit truetrac") that comes with the whole carrier. but I hear they are the weakest of the bunch for my diff because they have to remove too much material on the carrier to make it fit.. not sure if that's accurate. But here's the big issue I just found out- I have a factory LSD and would have to get an open diff carrier for any auto locker to work 😆 so dang... I think it is just going to be a selectable locker makes the most sense. I have had selectable before.. and would prefer the auto lockers because they are always locked in straight line as far as I can tell and I like that, not having to engage and disengage all the time...

@@Christian.jsf1 based on how mine behaves in the front axle (when in 4wd) I wouldn't want an auto in the rear anyway. John Currie has a great video about why they run selectable rear and auto in front on their race vehicles.

@@freedomin4low344 ah.. so is it... based on how cumbersome it is when the front one locks up in dirt, makes you think that if you had one full-time in the rear on pavement it be a huge pain in the ass?

@@Christian.jsf1 yes sir. If it's loaded at all it wants to lock up and is much more resistant to unlocking. Also, if you trace out the paths of the rear tires vs the front in a sharp turn, you see that the rear axle actually needs to differentiate quite a bit more than the front, so a locked rear wants to understeer even worse than a locked front. Less of a deal on mud or loose dirt or gravel but it sucks on slickrock or pavement. I could see running a rear auto locker on a trail only rig in the east, but I'd want the selectable for anything street driven or wheeled on grippy rocks out west.

I don't know if you read any of the literature that came with the directions, but short wheel based (and Narrow track) vehicles like a CJ5 will definitely get 'funky' either getting on the gas OR abruptly getting Off the gas. I put an Aussie Locker in my CJ5 (Dana 44's front & Back) and yes, she made noise going around corners, and she would 'Bang" every now and then. People would look, and I'd just smile and say that when the Jeep is off-road, it'll go places that you can't ;-) Living with a locker shows that you have upped your man-card into driving, and handling a vehicle that is ready for off-roading adventures, and you could care less what other people think! Enjoy that CJ, I wish I had mine back 😞

the subject of how great I am wouldn't leave much to talk about! haha. I know a lot more about building a welder than actually using one.

Honestly man it's hard to tell. It seems to spatter less and it sounds better, but it's still a 120V welder so I can't weld any thicker material than it did before and only having two voltage settings can be limiting. It does ok with stuff like lap welds on 1/8" material but it doesn't like to tie in at the toe without doing a lot of the weaving back and forth, and I have a lot of trouble getting better at puddle control when it's surrounded by so much smoke. I'll be getting a 220V MIG as soon as I can scrape together the money to do it and I'll do a comparison video when that happens. Mostly this was a fun foray into electrical engineering which i deal with a bit at work, but applying it to a hobby makes it a little more interesting to me.

@@freedomin4low344 Thanks for your opinion on this. I am brand new to welding and bought this welder as it was on sale for $99. It looks like to do the DC conversion I will be looking at almost as much in parts as I paid for the welder. Do you notice a real big difference in it being DC now vs when it was stock? I guess what I'm asking, is it worth it to put the money into it? I have never used any other welder and have only welded a few small things so far. Thanks man.

Yes, all the 4.0 use the same clutch regardless of which transmission. The flywheel needs to match the year of the engine though.

I know the bolt pattern is different and I don't know of a bellhousing to mount an AX15 onto the V6, but Advance Adapters might have something!

That's not what my install manual said, and if I had done it without washers it would have been even farther out of spec and still wouldn't have worked.

I put the old side gear shims AND the spare pinion gear shims I had left over from regearing to get my lock-right in spec. I think the powertrax is right for some vehicles, but is a very lazy design for many others (they make an initial design, and refuse to make any improvements or redesigns to fix original design flaws). It works for me, but I've already had to weld the pin holes because they were cracked and broken from the forces from ratcheting. Also, the caps for the axles heads were cracked and breaking apart (mine is c-clip design, so a cap goes over c-clip between side plate and drive plate). Many axles are different, and require different lock-right plate designs and set up. Some may not require shim washers, but mine did, but they don't provide shim washer kits, so I had to improvise.

@@DanielThompson-rl4xm so you’re saying you doubled the shims on each side of the carrier I wonder if that’ll work for my lock right locker out of spec

If you watch my follow up video where I compare the different lockers, you'll see where I test it at the end, how I make it luck vs unlock and see how much effort it takes to make it unlock. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it doesn't read to me like yours is working correctly.

@@freedomin4low344 Youre probably correct. thanks for the info & reply I'll be sure to watch

I have a lock right in a front 60, I could never make it ratchet or turn opposite but it works perfect and has been in use for 7 years of medium wheeling. 🤷‍♂️

What brought me to your vid was, I just installed one in my other truck and had a hell of a time with the small pins. They refuse to seat in the opposite driver. I used way more force than what I feel necessary to drive them over and they still only went about ¾ of the way. JUST far enough that I could get the springs in, even so the springs are almost fully compressed and I'm worried they're not effectively captured in the little window there. As it is, I'll probably not be able to get it apart, since I drove the pins in so hard.. 🙄.. I dunno, the first one I installed was a breeze and this has just been a total fuck lol

Actually it was too loose, so the pins would get sideways and bind up, preventing the sections from moving. End result is the same, locker won't unlock.

@@freedomin4low344 Tanks for the quick reply man! I just installed a lock rite in my CJ Dana 30. The carrier was original so the shim surfaces were worn, replaced those and checked pinion to spacer tolerances and each side was .013" which is within spec. However I did not check for that final gap of 5/32"...Have to test it out today and see if it will unlock when I turn!

it sucks doesn't it! Don't know what's going on with them.

@@freedomin4low344 I talked with Powertrax on the phone and they told me that I just needed to get a thrust washer that was .015 thicker to bring that driver gap into spec. Told them that adding that much would cause my pinion shaft to not clear the spacers. The guy on the phone said “well I don’t know what to tell you”

That was their excuse but it was almost new with 5k miles on it and their competitors lockers fit just fine, on the tight side, even.

@@michaeldunagan8268 sorry I didn't catch this a year ago when you left it. The answer is, you don't. It's such a high resistance that the current going through it when welding is almost nothing, so it doesn't take away anything significant from the weld current.