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More detailed video-- th-cam.com/users/shortsENOOOQtmgA8?si=cNz7wh1KLfoOdrXT

With so much grass it is better not to bag and let the grass clippings goes out the rear chute instead of bagging and matching

this is the best case scenario for a tick usually its the cam

When do I know when to turn the switch on to cool down my engine? I have the same set up wired up. But I don't know when to turn on and off the switch. Is it okay if I keep the switch on runin for twenty seconds. How do I know how long to keep the switch on for also. Technically my engine doesn't overheat right away.When I'm riding it, it tends to overheat.So I turn the switch on and the gauge.Goes back to normal and then I turn it off.And everything's normal until a little while later.It heats up and I have to turn the switch on.

Bought one of these in the "VYA" version which is the model having the blade clutch and throttle; it allows you to stop the blade but continue to run the engine ...and you can throttle it down to idle while you dump the bag ...or whatever. It cost me $753. And I returned it after one use. The big deal for me was the mower didn't cut level. My lawn is quite a bit fuller ...a much more evenly denser lawn than what you have here in your video. If the mower deck isn't set level, it is very obvious from the uneven cut of my lawn. What I found is a serious design flaw in the rear wheels ...specifically the right rear wheel. This wheel will bend upwards as the slightest weight is applied to it, racking the deck slightly and lifting the left front wheel. Simply lifting the front wheels by pushing down on the handlebar as you might do in normal use ...causes the right rear wheel to compress. Placing your hands on the handle bar and applying the small amounts of pressure to move the mower forward causes the right rear wheel to compress. The wheel may also compress some from the normal torque reaction of the drive system ...but I can't say for sure that it does. To observe this issue, all you need do is push down on the right rear of the mower where the handlebar connects to the mower deck/bag mount. Then do the same thing to the left rear wheel. It's a night and day difference; the left side is solid, no bending or flexing of the wheel. I brought the mower back to the dealer I bought it from and one of the techs and the sales manager looked at it. They both saw the issue. An in-stock, new HRN216 VYA model was pulled and we observed the same issue with it. The tech said there were no support brackets or bushings missing to better support the right rear wheel and that this was how Honda designed this mower. The sales manager offered to refund my full purchase price and I took him up on the offer. I realize this mower is first and foremost a mulching mower and (because of that?) it's ability to suck up minor debris from the grass ...especially if it happens to be just slightly embedded in the lawn ...is quite poor. So in addition to the poor cut and debris pick up, the grass catcher is a joke; it's tiny and poorly designed in how it's retained on the mower. The area at the top where the bag slips into notches on either side, is prone to fill up with fine grass clippings to the point the bag won't stay in place unless you frequently clean out the notches. Why they couldn't just include the larger catcher the HRX version has is beyond me; the one included with the HRN is about worthless. I was replacing a 25+ year old Snapper Hi-Vac mower I bought new. And while my old Snapper wasn't in the same league as far as mulching went, it was excellent at bagging, "vacuuming" the lawn and would give a billiard table smooth even cut. IMHO, these Honda mowers are highly overrated, stupid expensive and offer not much more than a less expensive brand sold in big box stores. After returning the Honda, I scored a Toro 21" "Recycler" mower at my local Lowes, for 2/3 the price of the Honda, that works a lot better in every respect. Good luck with your Honda.

Wonder if this is similar to the newer model CRF

I think it would be easier on the mower if it was strimmed first, i know that your showing what the mower can do but that's not what the machine is designed to do IMO

Lol you need help bro… if its scraping against your roof… dont keep trying it…

🔥🔥🔥

That other tick tick tick tick tick is the roller follower about to come loose an an destroy your engine

Nice video, do you know what are symptoms to change the shifter shaft? I fell down, the shifter was bent, using a small wrench I fix it, doing that I bent the shaft a little. It works fine but I am worried, the bike is 400 km, I would appreciate any advised

How u get it to tilt nd slide out cuz in my accord I can only tilt

I need to adjust the alignment of my sunroof. I have a lot of wind noise. Do you have video on how?

Usual timing chain noise

You earthed the switch out on the front slam panel I saw it spark 😑

good vid man, thanks. Ive got a 110 that is very hard to get in to first, its belt almost touching the case (is touching when you pull up on it). would this be why its shifting hard? def replacing stock shifter when i get this fixed...

Dope ,nothing beats that feeling when ya done fixing shit and it works

It’s a 5.4. Either needs a timing job or it’s a pile?

Coulda messed yo head up so much more and for so much longer if you add a relay to your setup lol. Wich you prob should tbh

Thanks bud

WIll be doing one this weekend

GO WITH steelseries

damn it took you 5 headsets to figure that out. 😂😂

Con mi ford f150 2004 me ise un experto en esos problemas ese motor fue lo peor que isieron los ingenieros de Ford

Just bought an 07, it came complete with the 5.4 tick, my buddy said it just identifies as a diesel.

Looks like you live in Oregon.

Your camp phasers are bad also

And get yourself a die hard gold battery at advanced auto

These 5.4l 3v are extremely sensitive with the maintenance and the parts used in them. I had a ticking sound coming from the back of the engine I couldn't figure out and every shop said it was a timing or valve issue but I refused to have the work done because it made no sense the timing and/or valves are top front not rear bottom I used a auto stethoscope and couldn't pin point the problem so I bought a boroscop and found a crack in the flex plate making the taping at low idle and would disappear once I started driving

WHAT KIND OF OIL YOU USE ON YOUR F150 5w30? 10w40?

Camshaft Followers...! & VVT Issues...!

Hey bro I hope you see this comment. I just watched your video on how to remove the rear view mirror stone for the f150 and you just saved me some frustration. I owe you dinner and drinks my guy. Appreciate it

The ticking sound and spark plug misfiring are unrelated. Spark tip would have expelled by exhaust , and even if didn’t, it would probably stuck in place with those carbon build up. It wouldn’t made that ticking noise. That ticking is from roller followers.

10w30 is best for this engine, it doesn't burn off and no rattle on start up.

Sounds like your cam towers are worn on your left side meaning you gonna need to tear it down and possibly have to replace your cylinder 8 valves and check your oil pressure these engines are known blowing oil tap gaskets and not getting the oil to the top cylinder sounds like you need new roller rockers too id recommend it before your engine goes kaboom

How the hell did that spark plug come out in one piece?

Before watching the video I would assume it’s a stock left her/brother follow her she’s in the piston slapping against it you’re on borrowed time replace it simple. if you let it go could grenade the engine

Thank you for this!!!

exact sound i got going on bout to check plugs

Bless your soul for this video bro! 🙏🏼🙏🏼 Exactly what i was looking for lol gonna try to change mine this week. Wish me luck 🙏🏼🙏🏼

On mine time when I let out I can hear clatter a little bit. I figure it’s gonna blow, bad cylinder I’m pretty sure after a spark plug gap on the end of the plug broke off in there

How much would an installation like this cost? on a honda

I've got a 5.4l I've tried putting thicker oil and oil stabilizer and it doesn't help at all

Sunrofunu aldiginiz kirmizi civic kac modeldi

terrible motors...

What year Civic is this

The Car Wizard did an episode on these 5.4L tritons, and he found that often, it ends up being a complete engine swap. By the time you go into a full rebuild, sending it off etc etc, buying parts all that. It's mroe than the cost of a new engine. I personally have always hated these damn engines. The plug will break and fall into the chamber taking some people weeks to fish it out if you don't pull ahead

May want to check your roller followers next, at the end of the video you can hear a different kind of ticking, the kind that blows engines, maybe im just not hearing it right but always a good idea to swap out them rollers for the new redesigned ones with the pinhole.

The easiest fix for that engine is a gallon of gas and a lighter.

That’s a stupid video what are you doing or night don’t be stupid with 12 when everything is clear