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Hi, @hyper-news24-7. To the best of my knowledge, there is usually a single power button. This unit has it on the side, so I would believe that's it. (Scrubbing through the video, I don't see one on the top, or within the keyboard keys.)

Hello, @aggiebq86t. Thanks for your question. Without using a function, you'd need to get VBA involved. I'm assuming when you say "pulldown", you're referring to a drop-down set up through Data Validation that appears on multiple rows? (i.e., there would be a drop-down in each row for this selection?). If I'm on-track so far, in VBA, you can use the Worksheet_Change event to trap the value that was selected in the drop-down (along with the cell address, etc.). Have that process load a small userform with the selected item's values in it, and allow the user to override the default unit price (or keep the default). The value(s) selected in the form would then populate the cells adjacent to the selected value. Off the top of my head, that's the direction I would take. Frankly, I've been moving more complex builds from Excel into Access as a *lot* of functionality for various selection types, value overrides, userform flexibility, etc. is much better and "baked in". Done correctly, the user would hardly know they're working in Access. My two cents.

@@cdtcsllc Yes, I meant the drop-down function. I think this is the route to go. Then I could also modify the description if needed to more accurately describe the task or material along with adjusting the unit price if needed. How would I be able to enter a "One Off" code for something that isn't in the master price list dropdown menu? It wouldn't have to add the one off item to the master price list, just give me the ability to input a description and unit pricing for an item into my estimate.

Hi, @enriquediaz7547. I believe it was the one shown. There are 24 2-sided pages in a Mini, so losing a few was no big deal. Of course, now that Rocketbook is coming out with official reusable sticky notes, these are pretty much yesterday's news. LOL. Thanks for the question!

Hi, Samuel. Feel free to reach out via craigt@cdtservices.com, or, this video is actually part of my Upwork freelancing profile, and you can find me there (on Upwork) at www.upwork.com/freelancers/cdtcsllc . Happy to chat with you.

Hello, Britney b. Thanks for the post. I don't have this unit in my possession anymore (it was a customer's repair, which was returned to them). Could you explain the "slipped LED cord" you're referring to? What is happening with the cord?

@@cdtcsllc the display won’t be brighten or it looks black.

@@britneyb.1779 Sorry to say, that's one of those "could be any number of issues" and "I'd have to explore/tinker with it to see where the problem lies". Loose connection somewhere?, panel going bad?, etc. It would require some diagnostics. No clear-cut answer from here, I'm afraid. Is there a local repair shop near you, or, posting the issue on a local township FB page can sometimes get repair "hobbyists" willing to take a look for not much $. (I see that in my twp quite a bit, and tons of people jump on it to help.)

@@cdtcsllc thank you. :) i think I may have to do that I tried to fix it maybe but it didn’t work out.

Hello, A. I'm a little confused. The power button was stuck, so you removed it? As in, took the whole button out? If you still have the button, follow the video for removing the bottom and the board and slide the button back in. Then replace the board and bottom. If you don't have the button anymore, which means you just have a hole in the side of the laptop where the button used to be, you should be able to use something narrow and not-too-hard-and-pointy to push on the switch on the board just inside the opening. it's a little round "spot" on the edge of the board that the button would have depressed. If you look in the side, you'll see it (little round metal "spot" in there). I would guess a pencil eraser (if narrow enough to fit through the hole), or a small plastic stylus would work fine. Let me know if that helps/works, or if I've totally misunderstood what your situation is.

Hello, vinny gaming. Seems like this is an uncommon situation. Someone earlier on had this same problem. My suggestion to them (which seemed to work for them) was to remove the bottom of the case, remove the board, and use something (small screwdriver?) to "pop" the button back out. It sounded like their button was a little torqued, and when they did this, it loosened up and moved freely afterward. You could probably get away with just removing the screws on the board and flip it over to its left without removing the ribbon cable (which can be a pain to pull out and reinsert), or even just lift it up enough to get it out of your way to push the button back out. Refer to the comment from Raymond Aiazzi, below, for any additional notes. I hope this helps, vinny! Let me know how it turns out. 👍

Hello, Paul. It really sounds like you covered a LOT of bases on your end. This would probably be better served outside of video comments. Shoot me an email at craigt@cdtservices.com and I'll be happy to see what we can sort out.

@@cdtcsllc Thank you for fixing my computer! LOL I had completely disassembled the computer but when I put it back together it worked! The only thing I can think of is that the ribbon cable from the motherboard to the power switch was not connected correctly. Anyway the computer in working now!

@@paulstough2995 Hi, Paul. While I appreciate the "kudos", all I did was offer my assistance. Credit where it is due - you sorted it out. 👍 Congrats on tracking it down! Glad to hear it's up and running.

Never mind

@@chloe9824 Hi, Chloe. I saw the emoji at the end of your post and wasn't sure if you were actually having an issue, or being lighthearted, which is always appreciated. 😁👍 If you are having an issue with the power/power button, feel free to post. Happy to help!

Hello, Imran. I've been stepping through the video and looking over some images I've found online of this board and the buttons. It does appear there are 4 small solder points connecting the buttons to the board, and I would guess that someone half-decent at micro-soldering could replace it. Without seeing it, I imagine there *could* be a small chance one of these connections may have broken or come loose, and just needs to be soldered. As for replacing it, here's the caveat. I haven't found *just* a replacement volume button being sold (Amazon, eBay, etc.). People are selling the whole board. Honestly, I would just replace the board. I see them online between $20-25 and it takes about 10-15 minutes to replace, without all the hassle of soldering. (You'd have to remove and reinstall the board anyway to replace the button.) I hope that helps, Imran. Let me know if you need any additional info. -Craig

@@cdtcsllc Dear Craig, Thanks for the prompt turnaround. You're doing an awesome job. I've been busy lately and don't live in the US, hence delivery via Amazon or eBay aren't that easy, besides HP customer folks quoted me around $50-55 for the entire power board + replacement cost which kinda feels insane. Getting a new one isn't an option either as I'm might plan a PC upgrade soon. Anyways, have a great day mate, cheers!

@@Imran-M- Thanks for the kind words, Imran. Yeah, that's a bit pricey. Unfortunately, that's what happens through the manufacturer. Best of luck with the upgrade. 👍 Have a great day, yourself!

Hello, carrot. I'm not sure I understand your post. The Chrome OS? Or something to do with the screen?

Hello, Luz. My two primary go-to online destinations when looking for a replacement screen are Amazon and eBay. Each of those usually has a wide variety of parts by third-party sellers. For one of my most recent repairs, I went to FirstLCD Laptop Parts (www.firstlcd.com/). I was having a hard time finding the part # I needed and FirstLCD had it at a great price (and shipping). If those don't work out, I will usually do a general web search for the LCD I'm looking for and scan through the results. I look for sites that carry, specifically, laptop parts and I avoid sites that carry a ton of "other stuff, including laptop parts" (Amazon and eBay being the exceptions, for me). i hope that helps! Thanks for writing. 👍

@@cdtcsllc thank you and it does help 😁

Hi, Raymond. Thanks for writing. My approach would be to remove the bottom cover and remove the board shown in the video. The button itself will still be in the side of the laptop (the outer casing). Wiggle that around a bit - see if it's a little torqued and just lodged in place. if so, you should be able to work it loose. Once it's moving freely, just put the board back in and the cover back on. If the button is already moving freely, check the plunger on the board - at the top where the button pushes against. Push gently against that with your fingertip or a small screwdriver. You should feel a little "pop" when it pushes in, and another as it comes back out. If you don't feel that "pop", it's worn out. Now, if it's not really giving you any problems (it's just annoying), and you can live with it, just put the board back in and bottom back on, and move on. Otherwise, get a new board and replace it. I hope that helps and answers your question.

@@cdtcsllc got it! Thanks! Yeah, I popped it out by pushing on the little plastic tabs and it turns out the spring was somehow torqued sideways. I popped the spring out and put it on straight and now it works again. Thanks!

@@catatestrophe7499 Awesome! You're very welcome. Glad to hear it worked, Raymond. 👍

Hello, dee. It does sound like the screen took some damage that would be resolved by replacing the screen. I'm more of a minimalist and don't jump to "just replace it" unless it wouldn't be prudent to try to fix it first. In your case, I don't believe a repair would work out, and it would need to be replaced. As the replacement screen was around $50-60, and took only about 20 minutes to do, it's really a quick, inexpensive fix to your problem. As always, I'm judging sight-unseen, based solely on the details you've provided. Hope this helps, dee!

@@cdtcsllc so yes it would be a good idea to replace the screen ?

@@deemoney5460 Given the info you provided, without actually seeing it, I would say "yes, replace it".

@@cdtcsllc thank you so much i did purchase a new screen! i will come back to watch ur video when it arrives!!

@@deemoney5460 " Awesome, dee! Feel free to leave a message here, or email at CraigT@CDTServices.com if you get stuck or have any questions along the way. 👍

Hello, da goat. A #0 Philips screwdriver worked best for me.

Hello, Yogendra. I'm glad the video was helpful. I don't have this unit in my possession anymore, but after reviewing the video close-up, I don't see a socket for that type of SSD, so I would say it doesn't.

Thank you, Belinda. I'm glad it was helpful. :)

Hello, iwillremember0987 . I'll do what I can, however actually having a unit in-hands is always the best way. My help may be limited. Initial thoughts, you may have tried... Try pushing and holding the power button in for a good 10-20 seconds, then push normally to power on. Sometimes laptops get "stuck" in a hibernate power mode and don't wake easily (I had one I swore took an hour to get it out of "sleep" mode... pulled my hair out). The long press will force it to power all the way off. Secondly, try disconnecting the battery and run it just plugged in. (Time-stamp 4:10 in the video. Looks like the connection comes off the top-left of the battery.) Pull that, plug in the power cord, and see if it powers on. A dead/dying/buggy battery will wreak all sorts of crazy havoc with a system. Just replaced 2 in the past 2 weeks that gave *very* different symptoms. Off-the-top-of-my-head starting points. You can contact or send along pics to CraigT@CDTServices.com.

It is pretty easy to fix this one. Good luck with the repair! 👍

Glad to hear it helped you out, 22NaturallyBrown. Thanks for the comment!

I'm glad it was helpful, Ftd/Hbk Kiing . 👍

Hi, Leo. In this case, the owner had to spam-push the power button like 10-20 times, quickly, in order to get it to turn on (and even THAT didn't guarantee it would). Seemed like the first thing to check out. What are you running into? Sounds like it's just now powering on?

@@cdtcsllc yep. Wont power up. I have 3.3 volts to the input side of the power button, which sounds right. No shorts that I can find, and I put both boards under a scope and no components appear damaged. Im a mac repair guy who took on this for a friend. Tough to troubleshoot without schematics.

Certainly sounds like you have the skillset to step through this. 👍 I usually start with the basic questions, so apologies if this seems rudimentary. Is the system getting power (fan comes on, HD spins up, power lights, etc.) at all, and just no display?

@@cdtcsllc I found what I think is a power rail and it appears the motherboard is getting power but no fans, no led on the power button, no display.

Hi, Leo. Hard to say - and one of the reasons I prefer desktops to laptops, but with everything going mobile... :( I ran a search on this model to see if this is a common problem, but nothing stood out aside from the "normal" power troubleshooting. A bad battery can cause boot issues. With the battery being built-in, I'm going to assume this is a model that won't boot without a battery inserted. -Craig

Thanks for the note, Yisroel. I'm glad it helped you out! 👍

I need help with my Chromebook

@@ahmeddorre3175 Hi, kobe bryant gianna. What's the issue?

Hi, wooloo that does stuff. Would your model happen to have a touchscreen?

@@cdtcsllc it does not

In that case, wooloo..., I would just go with it. Touchscreens have a surface layer (digitizer) that registers where you touch (as to smart phones and tablets). This being cracked just affects the touch sensor, but not the video. For a plain-old-screen, which is sounds like you have, they are composed of layers, with each layer adjusting and shaping the light/display you see. As the video is fine, I would say you're OK, BUT keep an eye on it in case it starts to spread ("spider-webbing"). It may affect the image at some point, or get in your way, viewing. As always, this is my best advice not actually seeing the unit. 👍 Hope that helps!

@@cdtcsllc alright thank you, I might take it in to get the glass part replaced in a month or two if it does start to crack more, but thank you for the help.

Hi, Sam. Sorry to hear you had some issues with this repair. I ran back through the video to see the clip you were referring to. The retaining clip that holds the connector in on the back of the panel (actually connected to the "connection end" of the cable)., correct? If so, those usually have little "legs" on the sides that slide into holes on the sides of the connection. If that clip popped out, it would just take getting those "legs" back in to get the clip working again. You might need a magnifier and some steady hands to do this properly. As I'm not sure how badly it "fell apart", if getting the clip back together doesn't work, I usually fall back on good old electrical tape. Plug the connector in first. Start the tape just past the connection, on the tape affixed to the back of the panel, and run it over the connection and a little ways up the cable. Push down firmly, but not too hard as to avoid damaging the panel. If that piece of tape doesn't cover the whole connector/connection, I would run one sideways across the connection as well. The point is to keep the connection in place over time (so it doesn't work its way loose). Re the "didn't light up" during the initial go-round, I would say to make sure the connector is lined up and all the way in straight (you can see on the video how long it took me to get it lined up). If you're sure it's lined up properly and pushed in, and it's still not lighting up, it's either a bad panel, or not precisely the model # for your unit. Best advice I can throw out to you without it being in front of me. :) I hope some/all of this helps you out! Let me know if you're still having problems. - Craig

Hey, JohnyBoy_TV. Ouch, that doesn't sound good. My initial "gut" thinks the screen went. Other things you can try are: 1) press and hold the power button for 10 secs - see if it turns on; 2) if it doesn't, press and hold for another 10 secs and see what happens. (That forces the laptop down if it's actually on, but hung up.) 3) Next, if the battery is removeable, pull the battery and unplug the unit. Push and hold the power button for 10 secs - this will discharge any residual power in the motherboard, again, in case it's "stuck". Reinsert battery and plug back in. Hit the power button. Anything? These are efforts to get the laptop, as a whole, out of a "hung up" power state and see if it will boot up. I'm not extremely hopeful those steps will work, but are things that are easy enough to try. If those don't work, I'm falling back on my "screen's dead" instinct. Someone would really need to look it over to confirm (did the panel die? did one of the wires get pinched/snap? etc.,etc.). it is certainly a possibility the laptop itself died, but that would take a bit of on-site diagnostics to confirm. I hope *something* above helps you out. Let me know what ends up happening - if it does turn back on, or if someone has a chance to look at it. - Craig

Hello, Ricardo. If you're referring to the replacement process, I can't say for sure. This was the first Chromebook screen replacement I've done. Most of screen replacements I've done are mainstream PC models (Dell, HP, ASUS, etc.). A search around TH-cam for your model may lead you to the steps for the unit you have. If you're referring to the actual screen, itself, part #s would change based size and capabilities. You can be pretty successful looking up your unit's model # and "screen" or "replacement screen" to find what you need. The best way to go is to either remove the existing screen, or at least gain access to the back of it, to find the label with the part # on it. That would ensure the best match. I hope this answers your question. If I've missed the mark, let me know.

Hello, TONIO. If the power button isn't working - i.e., the system doesn't power on/off when you push the button, OR, you have to repeatedly push the button to get it to turn on/off, chances are you need to replace the board. Mind you, this is "best guess" without seeing or tinkering with the system. The (plastic) button you push sits in the bottom cover. (Is that what you meant by "housing" - the cover?) When you push the button, it depresses the switch on the board. That's where all the magic happens, and is usually where the problem is if the button isn't powering up the unit. Let me know if that's a clear enough explanation. 👍

You're welcome, Emilio. Glad I was helpful. :D

Hi, Alan. Tough call. The button switch is a tiny component on the board. You can't really see it at time-stamp 0:46 as my thumb is over it, on the left side. You can barely make it out just to the right of the top red circle at time-stamp 4:19 (tiny silver piece at the top). I'm going to assume if the button was hit so hard the button is stuck in, it probably broke this off, or lifted it up off the board. If you can't reach the button with something to pop it back out to test, it's a pretty easy disassembly (8 screws and some prying) to open it up and check it out. Use a small screwdriver to pop the button back into place, and see if the switch bent or broken off. If it looks intact, place the bottom cover back on, flip it over, and try turning it on. If it doesn't go, there's your answer - new board. Hope that helps!

Did you actually watch it?

@@cdtcsllc parts lol

Thanks, son, for your continued support! :D Beat you onto TH-cam! :D Ha ha haaaaa!

@@cdtcsllc whatever lol