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It's not necessary for the AC to function. It only forces the system to recirc the cabin air for faster cooling. Should be a green wire iirc.

@TriStarGearheacircle? Oh ok..iirc?

@@MOE13576 iirc means if I recall correctly

@@TriStarWorkshop gotcha..yeah I checked all the wires and couldn't find any wire that lead me believe it was for the high pressure switch/reciru(back of compressor switch)...this whole truck was messed with before I got it...I would've like to have ♻ option but I'll leave without it.. thanks

@@_the_hammer_ yup that's why I sold it!

@@BaggsOnTheGo 🫡

@@captjeff2321 all stock. Changing that stuff changes valve lift and that cam is right at the limit of the heads.

@@gordsnell7206 it sold several Years ago to an older fella who had one in his youth.

New valve stem seals, then lapped the valves. Press in studs have worked well so far. If I had a more aggressive cam consistently turning high RPM I would have converted.

@@TriStarWorkshoprunning stock rockers?

@@fixedroofcoupe yep!

Yet you took the time to be an asshole. People like you with no content on complain on people's videos but you contribute nothing to the platform. So kindly gfys boomer.

About 850 rpm

Can't remember if i kept the stock seals or went umbrellas, but everything else you mention was stock.

Kept you from walking into it completely blind, didn't I? Thanks for watching.

@@StarshipFab depends. Usually just a little grease to coat the gasket. Sometimes I'll glue one side down and powder the other if I need to disassemble it many times.

Would love to hear more about it.

No, I do not.

Isn't there a drain plug on the oil pan though? You could add a hose, which would make this process much easier.

@@rustynail914 there is a drain in the oil pan, but it's too close to the hill to install a fitting. In that case, you'd just be draining oil into the bilge. I thought about it a lot and this was the best solution I could come up without major modifications or a motor-out.

It is! It needs a new steer cable but other than that, its fun. PFD saved my life when I was a kid. Freak storm came out of nowhere and capsized out sailboat.

Appreciate your input. The timing was indeed to advance. Car was sold over a year ago.

Id say book time is somehwere in the 6-12 range.

They will do that. Still good carbs.

Modify? No. They bolt directly on. The intake will need to be changed for a vortec specific intake.

@@TriStarWorkshopwhat size cam and everything you put in it cause I’m wanting to put a cam in mine to give it a similar sound to yours but I don’t know what kind and all that to do

It's in the description

@@willbrown4600 283/287 cam (LT4 Hotcam and Melling 22280) TBI bottom end 40k miles Vortec heads- pocket ported exhaust Melling 22280 cam LS6 blue springs Comp 78716 retainers Edelbrock Performer RPM intake Edelbrock 600 cam carb Holly return regulator HEI dizzy

@@TriStarWorkshop yeah I saw right after I said that but I should be ok doing the same stuff with a tbi or would I have to change the throttle body

I think I used 1/4"-20 x 1/2". Doesn't need much

Yes, I was able to fit with a few inches to spare. Measure twice.

@@TriStarWorkshop Lol thank you

Lift is up I went to tractor supply and got the iso 46 travellers, is this fine to use from what your saying?

@@dedricbullock5567 yeah that's fine. If you lived in a cold climate I would recommend the 32

Anthracite is much darker. Hyper black is like a silver tint coat on top of a black base coat. Unless you are going for a murdered out look, my vote goes to hyper black

Thanks for the info!

Probably. I'm not old enough to know!

Just what is posted on the channel. It was eventually LS swapped in May of 2024.

Thanks! Hope you found something useful.

You wish bub, thats top 0' the line "Blueball Ridge" from TSC

@@TriStarWorkshop you better be glad. Carhartt theft is a felony in this state.

RTV is a no-go on o-rings. O-rings need to be able to "move" in the joint to best seal. A light coating of quality silicon grease like SuperLube, Halocarbon, or Dow Corning Vaccuum grease goes a long way in making a good seal.

The pressure WILL crack the glue.

It's the compression of the o-ring in the channel. O-rings will slightly deform (go square)...it's this action that makes the seal.

@@Sam590ss doesn't matter if it does. It's held in place by the joint and the compression will force the seal into the channel and the ends together. The glue does nothing but hold form

@TriStarGearhead Oh. Whenever I have replaced an o ring the way it looked was pressure got to it. I always assumed that is why I was replacing it. How does the seal fail if not from pressure?

@@justinjackson2588 what I've seen more often than not is that they will get brittle from age/heat/chemical exposure and then yes the force of whatever is behind it will push it out.

Loctite 404 is the best for this application, but for low pressure static seals, CA is fine. The compression of the joint makes the seal, not the glue. The glue just holds the ring in the proper form in the channel until assembled and torqued.

Have you ever torn down a multi-million dollar machine to replace an o-ring where: 1. complete tear-down meant $100k+ lost and 2. There is no off-the-shelf part available? I have and it works. This is a field-proven method.

Dont speak on subjects where you have no knowledge. There to much of it in the world. And it makes you loon like a fool. This works very well

​@@TriStarWorkshop Preach man, anyone who hasn't needed this shouldn't speak on it. It works

Actually, this seal is NLA. I searched high and low and the ones I''ve purchased (and waited for weeks) to arrive were wrong.

I havent been the last couple of seasons much because of other obligations but my good friend @brainbuilds has. There is Porsche 914 with a subie engine that dominated MR.

You and the previous guy are truly the hopeless. I take time to make videos to help and entertain folks and you both just sit behind you keyboards and take from the community without giving anything in return.

What price of car !!

B ody of car not bad

Are you m e mber of 54-56victoria crown association club n ationsl headquarters bryton, Ohio

I stand by my decision to run a Mik. When I do a nut-and-bolt restoration, I'll be using Amal Premieres. For now, this is just fine.

@@TriStarWorkshop I realize you've already made your decision. I comment to other Norton restorers who are considering which direction to take when they consider their carburetor choices. Most single Mikuni owners advocate the decision they have made as a good decision but rarely do they expose the inherent performance losses which might be important to other owners. One Mikuni advocate told me his single Mikuni Commando is faster than any with dual carbs because in his Norton club nobody can catch him. Another told me there is no performance difference "except at the very top end" which he apparently never gets to. Some suppliers sell and advertise the single Mikuni kit as an "upgrade". Questionable but I can't see them advertising it as a 'downgrade'. In the end I'm glad you're satisfied with your choice. I'm a Norton owner since 1972 and own several Commandos. All of them with dual carbs, all start 1-2 kicks and all idle properly (for now).

Robert. You are directly over the target. If you swap too Mikuni your hitting yourself in the nuts. I have had many customers insist and I tell them take it somewhere else. Most I see later still trying to kick they’re British Bike too life. Lazy knuckleheads that have shit in their brains.

Mikuni guys that think they want to be British bike mechanics. 0 respect. 0 agreement. Alls it shows is that you have no ability or confidence or interest in doing what it takes to make things right.

@@mickgerard6696 please tell me how making my uncle's motorcycle run again is disrespectful? We get it: Everything was better back in your day. The way your generation clings to relevancy is so cringe.