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It´s a 2005.

Thanks for your nice words. I´m happy that i could help you. :)

Thank you. :)

It didn´t had a malfunction, i wanted only to show how to do this job, because someone asked for it.

Exactly.

I have a compressor, so i use an impact wrench.

No, it´s a 1.3. If you need torques for a 1.6 engine, you could watch my videos which i made of a Kia Pride/Rio. That´s a 1.4 engine, but very similar to a 1.6.

Thanks for your nice words. Your welcome. :)

I say it´s a very reliable engine. My first Accent had 377.000km when i crashed it. :( The only things i did on the engine were the hydraulic valve lifters, the valve sealings because of oil consumption and the oil sump because of rust. It was never necessary to replace the cylinderhead gasket, piston rings or any other big repair. I did oilchange every 10.000km and replaced the timing belt every 90.000km.

@@pannonicmechanic Thanks. The reason I'm asking is that I have a car with similar engine(Accent) but it uses carburator and distributor. The car doesn't want to start. What could be the problem

First i would check if the car has fuel and ignition. Sure you could check the timing also. Is there a story behind that car?

Sorry, but i don´t know because in my country it´s not allowed to use them.

@@pannonicmechanic okie thank you.. btw i added fully automatic foldable mirrors to mine using Honda civic EK3 mirrors. they fits perfectly, but i had to make a custom wiring harness tho.

Sounds nice, but also a lot of work. I´m happy about your success. Keep going.

@@pannonicmechanic yeah it was.. had to figure out how to incorporate Honda civic mirrors with Hyundai mirror control panel. had to spent couple on bench testing to figure out what wire goes where. after that it was just wiring.. but totally worth it tho. no more manual folding mirrors and manual adjustments.

Thank you very much. I give my best, but i must work on my house this year.

When the engine worked fine before you did that job, please check the timing marks again. Did you remove the spark plug wires on the ignition coils too? They can also cause such a problem.

I got it from a car parts store here in the town. Normally i go there, beacuse they have parts with good quality and it´s easy and fast, when something doesn´t fit. It´s sad to hear, that you got from two shops the wrong parts. Don´t you have a local dealer for car parts near to you?

Thank you! :)

Sorry, but i´m not familiar with the Hyundai Eon. I´m sure there are similarities, but i don´t know the details.

In my opinion you have another problem. In my case it happens, that you can´t put the reverse gear completely for the first time, because there are 3 gear wheels for that. I had on my first Hyundai another problem. I noticed that it´s hard to change the gears and the pressure of the clutch is weaker. So i tried to replace the fluid in the clutch system and that helped for a few months. I had that problem a few times and maybe the real solution was, to replace the clutch cylinders. Unfortunately i crashed that car and so i never really fixed that problem.

Your welcome.

Thanks for your nice words. That doesn´t sound good. It seems your mechanic made some damage, that´s not the correct way. :(

@@pannonicmechanic may i know where u from? and is that a popular car in your country?

@wahyunurdiansyah6935 I´m from Hungary, but i live in Austria. Many years ago this was a relative popular car here, but the people here like to buy european cars and also the japanese brands.

Thank you! :)

Now i have about 167.000km (about 103.000mls) on the car. I have the same thoughts. I think it´s an underrated car and i´m very satisfied with it. This is my second Accent, the first i bought as new and had unfortunately an accident with total damage after 19 years and with 377.000km (234.000mls) on it.

@@pannonicmechanic 200 miles! Hell yeah, perfect, just gave me some comfort in buying one, found one at 72k miles for $6k can't wait!

@Saffroncarp1106 How old is that car? Is the price really 6000$ ?

@@pannonicmechanic it's an 07 and yeah it's $6k then 7k after tax and title transfer, it's far from me though. Thinking there might be an issue tho it's a Toyota dealership so I'm kinda less sussed

Yes, that car has only 2 lambda sensors. I´m not sure about the error code, but the sensors are named with sensor 1 and sensor 2. 1 should be the top and 2 the bottom sensor. I´m happy that you like my videos, thanks for your nice words. It´s the same fact, why i also like this car. I think it´s an underrated one.

¿A qué te refieres con cobertura total? Todos los elevadores hidráulicos fueron reemplazados.

Hola. ¿Revisaste la correa de distribución/las marcas de distribución? ¿Tiene chispa en todos los cilindros?

Your welcome.

Hi. I hope i´m not too late, i tried to answer you as fast as i could. The reason for the two marks is simple, but the the good news is, both are the same. That one on cover has the reason, when you want to check the timing of the engine "without" removing v-belts, engine mount bracket, etc. For this you must only remove the top cover of the timing belt and you see the marks of the camshaft and the crankshaft. Another reason can be, when you want to check the ignition with a strobe lamp. Otherwise this makes not much sense any more, because you can´t adjust it. The other marks on the crankshaft you see in my video, is when you definitely want to replace the timing belt and you removed all the parts. So you have the marks on the pulley and the engine and you can continue your job. On the camshaft there is a spring pen and on the crankshaft you have a parallel key, so it´s nearly impossible to mount them wrong. So if you are careful with these parts, it´s relatively safe to do this job. The biggest mistake you can make is, when the alignement of the timing marks is not correct and when you make a mistake by tensioning. Therefore please always turn the engine minimum two rotations after replacing the timing belt and check the marks and the tension again. When you do the job by this way, your mother in law will be satisfied. :) I hope i could help you a little bit. Please tell me if i can help you further.

@@pannonicmechanic you're perfect my man, thanks for the quick response... let's just get one thing straight ya hear, you're wrong, i could sprinkle pixy dust on this vehicle, so it could fly around to points A & B in its own lane, and mudder in law will STILL exhibit behavior that causeth the Righteous to have thoughts of true crime. I usually won't complete something unless i feel i completely grasp what any teacher (TH-camrs that seems to have the understanding, local mechanics, inner circle people, etc)...& in doing this particular repair for the first time, I'm struggling to know why transferring current belt markings to new belt has any relevance whatsoever (just about all video/info site out there says to do so)....i saw 1 where a Hyundai dealership mechanic just "filming his routine without any audio really" doesn't mark anything, he just quickly swaps them out & does the 2 full cam rotations... what help does belt markings do besides create panic if they're a tooth off for whatever reason? Is it not safe to say that as long as you complete the manual crank rotations & align at the end, that you're fine?? And what happens if you do all that and they're not aligned? Can that happen (or does that mean u keep rotating until alignment happens top & bottom)... is there any event that might cause those 2 to not be in agreement at their "end points?"...... From my first time at this, I've also learned that it seems to be the tensioner causing not just the most problems for install, but the most causes for shop returns (usually within weeks too)... you mentioned this point in your reply.... if u don't mind, what is the best way to go about this again?? I just about stripped the spring bolt hole out (not because of your video)...i saw in another that is passed around as technician approved in Hyundai forums where they leave the long hole bolt out while doing the spring side... anyway, I'm back over here trying to button this up, but refuse to just slap that tensioner on not knowing if it's solid... the wife requested mudder to hang around longer, otherwise, it "might've" been some school glue & scotch tape to complete the job ... So, is this correct u think?? Install tensioner, both bolts, but leave both loose (if so, HOW loose & equally?? like should long hole be tight to help relieve some of the force of prying the spring to position?? Or in making long hole bolt tight, will that put unwanted force on spring bolt??).... then, u loosen long hole to push up the tensioner body, then tighten in its elevated state right?? then belt gets installed?? then long hole is loosened to lower the body in place for tension?? Then both tensioner bolts are torqued to roughly 19ft/lb's ?? then turn crank twice for timing alignment??? And finally, when removing crank bolt after everything seems right, will any of the movement from loosening it to install cover, harmonic balancer, etc., as well as then tightening it for torque, will that movement need corrected or adjusted as well??? is that then, why we have the different marking on the lower cover, to use as reference for doing another 2 rotations? i really appreciate your advice, sorry it's really wordy, i just have to think many if not most rookies at this come to similar questions.... Thanks again

@Atonement Thanks for your nice words. Oh man. We have a proverb for this: You can choose your friends, but not your relatives. But i´m sure that lady has positive sites too. She is the mother of a wonderful woman, who is your wife? :) I´m happy about your attitude to this job and i try to help you to understand. There are many ways to replace a timing belt, in my video i tried you to show the correct one. I don´t want to say, that i´m always right or whatever. But doing by this way you should be able to do it correct and to check the very important details, which are really important. If you don´t take care about these, you have a big engine failure and in the worst case you need another car. It´s important to line up the timing marks, because the pistons and the valves (crankshaft and camshaft) are then in the correct position. When the crankshaft mark lines up, the piston of the first cylinder is on the top dead center. When the camshaft lines up, the valves of the first cylinder are closed. Should something happen by replacing the timing belt, disassembling the whole engine, whatever. You can always turn the engine to the timing marks and the engine components are in the right position. That can be always a new start. These are the basics, how an internal combustion engine works. If you are wrong by only one tooth, the car needs more fuel, does not have accceleration, doesn´t start or the pistons hit the valves and damage them. Therefore these marks are so important. So you must line up the timing marks, loosen the timing belt, replace it with a new one, tighten the new belt, check the marks, do two rotations, check the marks again, and check the tension of the timing belt. These are the basics. When you install the new timing belt, you should put it on the tensioner pulley as last wheel. It must be the loosest point, otherwise the tensioner can´t move/do it´s job. I tried to show you the easiest way to replace the tensioner and assemble the spring again. That´s one of the most trickiest details, because you must press against the spring. If you remove the bolt from the long hole, it may be easier to put the spring in it´s position, but then you must press the whole tensioner and screw in the bolt. Normally that´s harder to do. If you let the bolts of the tensioner loose, it should be about a half or one rotation, not more. So that you can move the tensioner easy into both directions. All other steps you described were correct, please do it by this way. When you assembled all the parts together, you can do again two rotations to check the timing again and for this you can use the marks on the timing belt cover and on the v-belt pulley of the crankshaft. To be honest, i never did this beuase i had no problems after assembling after replacing the timing belt. I hope i could help you with these explanations and wish you good success by doing this job. Please keep me updated.

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I recommend to line up the timing marks correctly. Once i did this job on another car and the timing was wrong by a half tooth. The engine didn´t start.

Normally in most cases , the car will start if 1 tooth off,but will not run as good. May misfire, may be weak etc. .....but ok , gonna just keep it on the marks, that is if I can ever get the CS pulley bolt out. @@pannonicmechanic

If that happens, the timing is not correct and the engine doesn´t work correct. Once that mistake happened to me and the customer was not satisfied. The car needed much more fuel and had no acceleration, so i had to do the whole job again and my boss wasn´t happy. In the case of the timing belt it´s better to be very very conscientious, a little mistake can be very expensive.

I mean accent

Hi. Do you mean the double pulley on the waterpump?

@@pannonicmechanic yes sir

@muhammadnurifanhartoyo8458 I have another video in progress, where is show this better. I try to finish that as soon as possible.

@muhammadnurifanhartoyo8458 I finished that video, unfortunately it´s not easy to film that part. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/-Okz-_njd3M/w-d-xo.html It starts at Minute 02:36. The easiest way to mount both pulleys is for me, to bring the waterpump in the position 12 o´clock and align the pulleys by the same way. It looks easy in the video, but i was frustrated many times by doing this. I hope i could help you with that.

Thanks for your nice words. I will do my best, but in the last time the car runs good.

Your welcome. :)

De nada. :)

That´s also my opinion. I was working on other cars/engines too, asian and european, but this is one of the mechanic friendliest engines of the 2000 aera. The only easier ones were some of the 80s, with no power steering, ac and only one v-belt.

Thanks for your nice words. Your method is interesting, but i would be afraid to damage the new timing belt.

@@pannonicmechanic Just use the knife on the old belt. Of course this method is for persons not sure of timing mark alignment and such.

@josephbingham1255 Ok, that´s a good explanation. Because this is/was my profession, i know about the timing marks and if you don´t have, you should make some with paint. When the engine was running good, you can make marks on each pulley in the correct way and it should be ok.

Я тоже, но ты должен это принять. :)

Your welcome. :)

The battery type is 395. As you see in the video, you need 4 of them.

Hola. Tengo este problema también. Sospecho que mis líneas de aceite están obstruidas.

Thanks for your nice words, i´m happy that the video is helpful for you. The top sensor is connected with a 4-Pin connector to the main harness of the car. It is only about 20-30cm from the O2-sensor, you find it when you follow the wire. It´s an interesting issue you have. Where is the rusted hole? On the O2-sensor?

@@pannonicmechanic thanks for the reply. It turns out that rusted hole is just the heat shield. I took it to the shop they said that wouldn't turn on the CEL light. There is an exhaust leak just under between the top and bottom sensors they said could be throwing off the sensors.

@djgeorge1469 I would like to tell you my experiences. On my first Accent it was necessary to replace the catalytic converter about 2 times. Some of the aftermarket parts doesn´t last so long and so one day the emissions were too high. When i removed that part, i noticed that the catalytic converter itself and the exhaust manifold were separated, because the weld seam was broken. The second thing was, that the flexible part of the exhaust system was broken and so i cutted it out and welded in a new part. You could check this two parts because of a leaking, maybe this is the solution for your problem. Third: On my first Accent the top O2 sensor was broken, so i had to replace it. The Check Engine Light was on and the car had very high emissions. After replacing everything was ok again, but when you drive around too long with a broken O2 sensor, the catalytic converter gets damaged. That happened to me and 100.000km later i replaced that part. I would recommend you to check for leakings, if you have some, please fix them. You can also check the connectors and the wiring for oxidation and damages. Sometimes this is the only issue. If the check engine light is still burning, check the error codes and the function of the O2 sensors, if they are broken, please replace them. If possible, please make an emission test. If these are too high, you must replace the catalytic converter. I hope i could help you a little bit.

@@pannonicmechanic back in january the flange by the catalytic converter rusted off so they did a weld job on that. The the current leak is on the flexible part. Looks like there was a previous patch job on it from before which I forgot about, but it didn't take and is leaking again. The condition of it it looks like that portion of the exhaust should be replaced. Thanks for your Accent history. There is some overlap there in our issues, and I'm always happy to learn new info about how cars work and issues to keep note of. Cheers.

@djgeorge1469 If there already was a repair job and it´s not in a good condition, maybe it´s better to replace the whole part. I´m happy that i could help you with the history of my first Accent. That´s the reason for this youtube channel, to help other people and share my experiences. I wish you a nice weekend. :)

I´m sad that you first experience was not that good, but you can learn from these mistakes. One tooth doesn´t look much, but for the timing belt it can cause big problems. On my fathers car it was only a half tooth and the engine didn´t start. As i did that job for my father, i also replaced the waterpump. I only not do this on my own car. Please don´t be deceived about the short videos, because they are cutted. It´s sure possible to do this procedere faster, but i think about 3 hours are realistic. Under 1 hour it must be a car with very less components to remove. These were older cars from the 80s with no AC, no power steering, no engine mounting bracket to remove. We had a 1987 Opel Kadett and i replaced the timing belt on the street, because the car was broken down. I would recommend you buy tool sets. You don´t know, when you must do another job and so it´s good to know, that you are prepared for them too. And when you are successful, you are motivated to do more. :)

A good preparation is important for this job and any others too. I hope my videos help you to see, what you need.

I understand you, it´s a combination of miles/kilometres and time. Hyundai recommends to replace the timing belt every 90.000km/55.000miles or about 5-6 years on this engine. Others may be different. If you got them, you should replace the timing belt as soon as possible. I like your attitude, to learn as much you can about this. I´m sure you will be successful.

Normally i do the same, because i want to find out early if it works or not. It´s important to mount the crankshaft pulley, otherwise the timing belt can run down.

well yeh, definately tighten the CS pulley, snug up everything, I was just saying ...... i wanna know it was a success A.S.A.P after getting the belt on , THEN i can continue on doing the water pump & steering pump etc,belts etc. When I did my ford, as soon as I had things secure with the timing belt, didnt do anything else,just fired it up & it sounded good . Gave it a few pedal pumps,sounded good .......took a break,feeling good, then finished up.@@pannonicmechanic

We both do it by the same way. I wish you a nice weekend. :)

I can only say, the manufacturer did that decision. The white mark with paint can be from a Mechanic, there is a milled line mark on the pulley. With paint it´s easier to find.

You know that's pretty common, once you've actually got the light in it you'd see that it gets a strobe and it really will line up well looking thru the light if you were adjusting your distributor it really just shows up at the match mark

That´s a good idea, you can see the timing mark with a strobe. But you should do this, when your engine runs fine to find it, or to check after timing belt replacement if it´s still correct. I don´t know your car, but for mine i don´t need a strobe, because i can´t adjust the distributor. Do you have another type of ignition?

For tightening the crankshaft there is a torque, but you need a tool you see in my video to hold the crankshaft pulley. This torque is for my Hyundai 180-200Nm. On your Ford i don´t know, sorry. It´s an important part, i hope your method will work. How did you open that bolt? I replaced the v-belts with new ones, unfortunately you can´t see in the video. But the waterpump is the old one, you are right. I did so, because it was not really old and i hate cooling fluid on my hands. So i do this job on my car only, when it´s really necessary.

The procedere is for me very similar on a 1.6 engine too. I did that job on a Kia Pride/Rio and made a video about it. That should be more helpful for you, when you have the 1.6 engine.

You mean it will cost you 500$ in a workshop?

yes, they told me labor is $500@@pannonicmechanic

I learnt my profession in a workshop so i know the situation. The $500 is a combination from parts, working hours, etc. I don´t know where you live, but here in Europe where i live, one hour costs more than 100 euro. I heard from workshops, where one hours costs more than 220 euro. I´m talking about only "1 hour". The fuel pump as an original part can cost also more than 100 euro, maybe 200 also. Then they calculate you also checking the error codes, disposal of parts, etc. I don´t think that this is fair, but they are working by this. On the other side the workshops have high expenditures. They must pay rent, electric power, heating, the workers. With an older car i would recommend you to look for a cheaper workshop and you could buy the parts by yourself. And at least you could try to repair your car by yourself, thats why i´m doing my videos, to assist you.

@@pannonicmechanicOh okay that is more understandable when you break it down. i an in the states, and they are telling my $1,000+ just to fix fuel pump. but this doesnt seem to difficult to do if all i have to do is replace the fuel pump. I drive a 2019 hyundai, so its not tht old. ill look into the owners manual and see if i can do it. i rly dont have the $ rn 😢 and i work using my car, so i gotta figure somethin out

@worscohli I´m happy that you understood my explanation. I would recommend you to look for a part by yourself, maybe aftermarket. You see in my video, that it´s not too complicated to replace. Your car will be different as mine, unfortunately i don´t know your car. You can check the owner´s manual, but it will be not helpful. They don´t write these informations there. You need a workshop manual. I wish you good success.

Your welcome. :)

Thanks for your nice words. Your welcome. :)