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Oliver Tippett
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 12 เม.ย. 2016
First One Day Solo of Virginia (El Cap)
At the end of my trip last spring I made the first(?) one day solo ascent of Virginia (A3) on El Cap. It was an absolutely knackering experience, but I'm happy to have done it. I climbed mostly overnight, and focused more on speed than filming, so the footage isn't amazing but here it is.
มุมมอง: 2 627
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Final Day on Sea of Dreams (Part 4)
มุมมอง 3K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
The 7th and final day on Sea of Dreams. Despite being mostly easier pitches, there was still some excitement.
Massively Exposed Climbing - Sea of Dreams (Part 3)
มุมมอง 6K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
This was my 6th day on the Sea. The first pitch of the day was the most exposed on the route. After that was loads of scary hooking. My GoPro died just before I finished the last pitch of the day, as did my brain so I didn't get much footage at the end.
Sketchy Loose Aid Climbing - Sea of Dreams (Part 2)
มุมมอง 6K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
This is days 4 and 5 on Sea of Dreams. After a quick pitch to the Expanding Anchor, I climbed 'Don't Skate Mate', which is given A4 in the guidebook but is actually more like A3 with a chicken rivet half way up.The next day I climbed a few more diorite pitches to the top of the Bull Dyke. Towards the end of the day I fell when a flake peeled off the wall, but thankfully it didn't chop my ropes.
The Most Dangerous Pitch I've Done - Hook or Book - Sea of Dreams (Part 1)
มุมมอง 32K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
After I finished the Reticent I rested for 5 days before starting up Sea of Dreams. This video is from the first 3 days climbing the route, up to and including the infamous "Hook or Book" pitch.
The Natural (Reticent Day 7)
มุมมอง 3K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
My last day on the Reticent. I climbed The Natural, a 175ft pitch with no bolts or enhanced features above a ledge, rated A4 in the book. It used to be A5 and the hardest pitch on El Cap, but now big beaks have made it safeish (probably). No matter how hard it is, it's the an absolutely phenomenal pitch.
The Irie - One of the Coolest Parts of El Cap (Reticent Day 6)
มุมมอง 2.9K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
This is the penultimate day I spent on the Reticent. I climbed the two Irie pitches and then a quick one to New Dawn Ledge. The Irie is a massive grey dihedral with spectacular rock and really interesting climbing.
The Master's Corner (A4+) : The First Reticent Crux (Reticent Day 5)
มุมมอง 3.9K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
After 4 days of climbing I arrived at the first crux pitch of the Reticent, The Master's Corner. Back in the day it was supposedly 120ft of body weight only placements up to the first rivet above a ledge, but nowadays its probably closer to A3 with no real chance of hurting yourself (probably). It was a properly good pitch though, as was the A3R one above that I didn't get much footage of as my...
Aiding the Free Dawn Wall Crux (Reticent Day 4)
มุมมอง 3.5K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Day 4 of my Reticent Solo. That day I climbed 4 pitches up to Wino Tower, including reversing part of one of the free Dawn Wall cruxes, as well as some hooking sketchy flakes.
Falling on a Skyhook! (Reticent Solo Day 3)
มุมมอง 8K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
Here's the first proper day on the actual Reticent pitches. I climb pitch 1-3 off Lay Lady Ledge in this video, including an A4 pitch that I take a small daisy fall on.
Reticent Wall Solo (Day 2)
มุมมอง 1.1K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Day 2 of my recent solo of the Reticent Wall. In this video I climb from the top of P3 on New Dawn to Lay Lady Ledge, from which the Reticent starts. Still pretty boring at this stage (sorry), but every day after this one was full value and hopefully the footage reflects that.
Soloing one of the Hardest El Cap Routes: The Reticent Wall (Day 1)
มุมมอง 1.9K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
I thought it would be better to split up the Reticent footage into separate days, so theres 6 more Reticent videos to come after this! This one was my fixing day where I climbed the first 3 easy New Dawn pitches (sorry for the gratuitous clickbait calling it hard but I promise it gets much harder).
Rope Soloing El Capitan: Zenyatta Mondatta (A4)
มุมมอง 16K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
A couple months ago I rope soloed Zenyatta Mondatta on El Capitan over 8 days and I thought I'd try to make a video to convey what soloing a bigwall feels like. Sorry it's so long.
The Quarryman Groove (E8 6c) - Twll Mawr
มุมมอง 344ปีที่แล้ว
The Quarryman Groove (E8 6c) - Twll Mawr
Palmist (E4 6b) Solo - Cumminston Climbing
มุมมอง 1272 ปีที่แล้ว
Palmist (E4 6b) Solo - Cumminston Climbing
The Prow (E5 6a) Solo - Cummingston Climbing
มุมมอง 2172 ปีที่แล้ว
The Prow (E5 6a) Solo - Cummingston Climbing
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b) - Froggatt Soloing
มุมมอง 2462 ปีที่แล้ว
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b) - Froggatt Soloing
Oedipus Ring Your Mother (E4 6b) - Froggatt Soloing
มุมมอง 2082 ปีที่แล้ว
Oedipus Ring Your Mother (E4 6b) - Froggatt Soloing
Monopoly (E7 6b): Millstone Edge Climbing
มุมมอง 6772 ปีที่แล้ว
Monopoly (E7 6b): Millstone Edge Climbing
Nice work dude. Hope to see you at the bear boxes again next spring. Keep on getten after it.
Im not sure as an American, we can all still drive around in diesel trucks in good faith after watching this. Im confused and need a hamburger.
Nose-wankers 😂
I have lead A3 and I feel I’m not even in the same ball park as you Oliver. When I watch you’re vids, especially sea of dreams, you make having balls of steel seem like a walk in the park
Well done Oliver. Back in '87 I soloed the Zodiac and Xaver Bongard was starting his ZM solo that same day. We shared a beer and off we went. When I finished and he was still half way up, but I always wondered what the route entailed. Thanks for sharing an amazing experience! BTW - Walt Shipley had also just finished soloing the NA wall and we shared drinks back at the bar that evening. I think it was the start of a solo aid climbing era, trying to replicate the achievements and honor the efforts of Charlie Porter, Robbins and Grossman, then Kohl and Cole took over. Appears to be a resurgence today. Nothing like it.
I didn't even know this sort of thing was even possible lol. Insane!
These videos give me bad dreams and I love it. Good work. I trip out when I follow closely and remember what is below you... pure beef.
hooks n ladders looks sketch as hell, but fun at the same time. Weird.
So awesome and so terrifying. Hats off to anybody that solo climbs that route
Wow... very impressive, you got massive skills. We rarely see anyone doing this the way you do it, alone. Massive respect from France and from a french climber ! After seeing you i wonder if what i'm doing is really climbing ^
와~~~ 낙석크네요~ 위험요소는 사전에 제거하는게 좋죠~ 멋져요~!!
와~~ A3 보는동안 손에 땀이 났어요~ 영상 잘보구~ 구독하고가요~
ouf , content d'etre arrivé a la fin de la vidéo 😅 bravo !
That route has 100 foot fall potential written all over it. Amaaaaaaazing how utterly relaxed you are stretching it out on hooks. That Alfifi strap cinch is the fcking bomb.
As a once C2 aid voyager, this all looks batshit crazy.
Ves a escalar "intifada" o "oju peligru". Llavors sabràs el que és cagar-te a les calces
Hi Oliver., really appreciated your videos, I was terrified just watching your progress up this wall over 7 days! the way you talked us up there, every step of the way explained your method. Awesome
Thanks for showing the technique. Incredible work! Greetings from Argentina South America
Excellent! Great work, Oliver! Your solo ascents are very impressive and it’s so cool to see video footage of your leads. Beautiful corner system. Thanks for putting these videos together. Looking forward to more videos of your future ascents. The shifting and popping Pecker placements make for some exciting footage. At 10:17 in the video Oliver placed a #1 BD Pecker that shifted during the first bounce-test and then shifted again while he was hanging from it. Ah, the “joy” of aid climbing. At 18:18 he placed a #1 Pecker that pulled during a bounce-test, and then it looks like he replaced it with a #2 Pecker. The longer stem of a Tomahawk increases hooking action compared to beaks like the Pecker and Camp Iron Hawk. I’m curious if a Tomahawk would have stuck better in those two placements (…said from the safety and comfort of my armchair). Using a blunt heading chisel or a 1/4” round punch can be helpful for placing beaks in tight corners and allows for more precise hammering although it requires a bit more reach and it beats up beaks pretty quickly and can create sharp burrs. As climbers know, this is why Tomahawks are available in left and right versions, in addition to the standard straight version. But on pitches like this that require so many beaks, one has to use what they have available, and it may not be possible to have the perfect piece for every placement.
So good. Subscribed!
Sweaty hands here. It must feel good when you reach the bolt after one thousand hooks.
Thanks for sharing for those of us who will never climb a5.
I saw Dire straights on this tour in 84'.
What is with that rope from above?
Just curious, do you wear climbing shoes on your big wall solos? Some kind of hybrid? I have always struggled with shoes on big aid climbs!!!
Awesome content, just finished the 1st part. Requires a totally differently wired brain to be able to do this.. Even if i had expert skills, I could never.
Oh my.. don't know nothing about aid climbing but this looks scary and extreme and you clearly know what you're doing. Id never ever have the balls to do this kind sh.. subbed. Stay safe.
All you do is climb ladders. Checked to the end. No skill and utterly boring!
ur epic my dude
13:45 Oliver: “...well, that held a bounce test...” Me: “Wardrobe! Underwear malfunction!”
BROTHERMAN! I've just dicovered you... PLEASE, let me tell you something! I newer version GoPro COSTS NOTHING! You desparetly need it to remove the nasty wind sound 🙏
You have brass cojones!
I'm surprised Oliver's videos don't get more attention. I suppose aid climbing isn't what people think is actually climbing. In reality though, Oliver is making this look easy. I did a load of El Cap routes in the early 90's such as the Zodiac (solo), PO Wall (solo), Zenyatta, Sunkist etc and I don't think people realise what a serious undertaking these wall routes really are not just in terms of climbing but logisitics and making as few mistakes as possible an obviously soloing just adds more to the workload. Even 40+years on the Sea has a very serious reputation (originally 5 A5 pitched under pitch 13) even though hook placemets have been drilled and bolts placed in lieu of RURPs it's a hair-raising proposition. Well done Oliver, bloody good show.
Well said. I did zodiac, nose, triple and lurking fear and backed off several others in the 90's and early 2000's. Big walls are serious business and Oliver really does make it look easy. My hunting partner has done around 10 walls and when we're camping out in the NV backcountry eating steaks and drinking whiskey we always talk about our experiences and how glad we are not to have to get up and lead a scary aid pitch in the morning.
25:13 when you used sticky tape to hold the gear on I was like 'whaaaa!?!' but then you put the second piece on and I was like 'yeah, that looks pretty good, belt and braces' lol :D Absolutely thrilling stuff, thanks for sharing :) I used to think the Daleks were scary on the telly when I was a kid but the stuff on TH-cam these days...jeez Louise! :D
Having had to just refasten a set of coat hooks to the wall here I am absolutely SOILING MY BRITCHES watching you hanging off them there bolts! I get scared of heights just wearing thick socks...the only thing keeping me going is that you must have survived to post the video, hopefully, lol :D Bloody amazing!
Pretty confident I can fix our satellite dish with a couple of egg whisks and my wife's bra after watching this :)
Having never touched this climb, it's silly for me to wonder, but why is it that around 19 minutes the route heads off on hooks, instead the the dihedral? Is there a blank section after your last cam?
Ah, you said it right after, to avoid death choss. Gotcha! I thought that hollow flake earlier looked really bad too
Awesome, just awesome. Thoroughly enjoyed!
bold
Cool video but you need to speak louder
Crazy hooking sir! How did you choose to take on these extremely difficult aid routes? What or who inspired you? Awesome stuff to watch and learn!
21:12 is a ahhhh moment...
“If he eats my cinnamon rolls…” 😂
You don't use cam hooks?
Good thing you had a great belayer! LOL
Why was that Totem just chilling there? bail?
Thank you very much for sharing this.
basically free soloing on hooks lol
Fix hooks with tape... Mental! Nice job
Trusting your life to those bird beaks!😳