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theres plenty of flowy stuff there. off the top of my head its a bit hard to say, but johnny 2 skidoo is prtty flowy, and lone ranger up in the northeast is also pretty flowy but its kind of out of the way of everything else, if i think of anymore in the next bit here ill update you. but there are plenty, on the other hand there are also plenty that are not haha - for example. Barwell first ride from west to east starts off pretty rough then there are a couple pretty tough sections, but after that the flow is supreme!

thanks for the tip! since i did that ive actually been told and shown about the vinegar thing! thanks for watching and taking the time to engage with us!

Thanks for the pros and thanks for watching! funny hey! some spots are just like that haha. this is such a fun section of mclean!

its not too bad at all jjst hard to see the tire

for sure haha

@@jamesbrooks5442 what does this have to do with the video

The stickers arent fairing too well. But otherwise she is in great shape. Really starting to love it with the mew clutch and gear chanhe

​@@AlbertaMountainPiratesI gotta admit, I'm jealous of your bike AF 👍

@@marekant7776 hah. Thanks. Ill take that as a compliment. But don't be. Although i would recommend betas if you are looking in the future. But get a 250. The 125s have those bullshit aluminum clutch plates

@@AlbertaMountainPirates aren't there any upgrade kits? I think Rekluse makes some

@@marekant7776 not popular. Hard to get. 250 300. Easy. 125. Not so much. Not here

what is that? If its better than what im using im all over it!

Thanks for watching! More to come!

Absolutely. Thank you! Its an unreleased KhaosDubz original!

Im sure it would. Its light and has alot of power. Its not like the old school 2 strokes!

thanks! The explosive forming is pretty damn cool for sure.

i cant remember off the top of my head. I believe its around 2-5 T

​@@AlbertaMountainPirates for what type of dirtbike it's the rim, are those Excel rims, some heavy duty ones?

@@RideWithGec beta 125RR race edition

stainless steel!

lol

aint that the truth!

oh i bet you i know whats up here. If you are facing an issue where the valve cover will not sit flush, The issue likely lies in your cam shaft. The cam shaft has a collar on the opposite side of the cam gear, and that collar has a locater peg that MUST be in the correct spot, Or the peg will be driven into the aluminum head causing all kinds of damage. It can be a bit tricky at first. I destroyed a head doing this when i didnt know what iw as doing. If it is not the valve cover, but instead the head itself, Be sure to investigate all your surfaces, As well as your cam chain tensioner. The tensioner could be falling in the way of the reassembly. Make sure the piston is on correctly, And nothing is wrong there, Check your cam chain make sure its not bound up at all. Report back and we can go from there!

No worries! Thanks for the continued support! Depending on the printer. So the SV06 with the stock print head can print reliable with tpu at around 40-50mm/s, And overall, will be slower at printing, aND movements between lines when not printing. AKA Acceleration. Whereas, The SV07 can print reliably at around 75mm/s with tpu. Partially due to the longer hot end, and The faster acceleration *which should be dropped from 8000 to 5000 and 5000 to 2000 if i remember correctly. (I can clarify this later as im not in front of it right now. LMK) ... Of course all of this is only possible when retraction is disabled completely. And with more experimentation, And time spent fine tuning everything, And by cleaning the build plate regularly after every print or 2 with rubbing alcohol, I would foster a guess that speeds of 100mm/s can be achieved with tpu and the SV07. And i reckon as far as the sv06 goes, Speeds of about 60-70mm/s could be doable with the stock head, And if you upgrade the head to the sv07 head (which i have not actually tested yet) i believe TPU print speeds could be alot closer to that 80-100mm/s speed. all of this will require experimentation, and plenty of fine tuning combined with trial and error to really get it to its maximum. But i feel like there is no sense in running at or near maximum, because this is where issues can develop. I would prefer to run multiple printers at like 70-80% rather than 1 at maximum speed. A mistake in printing can lead to many lost hours, And dollars! Feel free to ask anything else and i will do my best to answer and clarify!

Holy fuc, that's a comprehensive answer! Thanks, I was expecting much slower speed, 50mm/s is how a stock Ender runs anyway, so no problems for me. I agree with your point, people want more and more speed, but it's not only about fast prints, I learned the hard way

@@marekant7776 thats always the best way to learn!

In This We Take pride!

Thanks for watching! hope it helped!

very. Unfortunately so much of the action was corrupted footage

we made it! What an adventure!

oh awesome! Does it help?

@@AlbertaMountainPirates It has good information, but TH-cam has been great also. Working on a Suzuki 185 CCI 2 stroke also, it's all new to me.

great to see the ambition! Keep it up! @@NoName-c4y7h

100% ! dont be afraid to experiment!!

thanks! As are we! As always we appreciate you watching <3

makes sense. I also hate that. And most newer bikes lack any other starting method other than electric

such a great area! We are lucky to be here in alberta! Thanks for watching! Maybe we will see you out there this summer!

Fantastic to hear! glad it worked for you! enjoy your restored performance!

thats actually a great idea! thanks for subbing + sharing! and welcome to the pirates!

I can certainly do that. when I have a pipe that has a leak, Ill film how i figure it all out. Thanks for the props, Thanks for watching! Feel free to check out some of our other content! you might like it!

Cork the ends with air pressure inside, dip in a tub of water or brush with a soapy solution. Mark the areas for welding.

@@AlbertaMountainPirates May 2024, just checked the AMP YT site and don't see a video for leak checking or welding pipes. Did you do one (or more)?

@@ljprep6250 i did not. I havent had a pipe with that kind of damage since i made this video(thankfully.. LOL ) But heres a quick tip for you. >> Basically, if you cant visually see a hole or a crack, follow the procedure in this video, And when you fill it up, and heat it, You will likey hear air escaping, and you may see a small bit of oil begin to develop on the outside where the suspected hole would be. be sure to mark it, Let the pipe cool, and then remove any air in there safely. >>>Once you have the pipe marked and it can be handled, Get yourself a brazing torch ( i use an oxy mapp torch) and fix the hole using brazing. Its much better than welding and will be less hassle and cause less damage to the existing material. Brazing can take a bit of practice, and the upfront cost is certainly a bit of an investment, And the oxygen bottles dont last very long, So you should work as quickly as you can safely. You may also want to practice on another piece of metal that is less imprtant, But a similar thickness so you get the feel for it, Because a brazing torch can easily melt the stainless to a puddle causing a huge hole if you are careless. Hope this helps!

Thank you! I spend many late nights working, editing, animating, and perfecting these before i release them, And between 3 channels, Its damn near all i do these days. But im stoked on it! this one was fun to make. Thanks for watching, And im glad you are safe after your 4x4 disaster

Thanks! for sure it is. Wish we got more riding in late season,. But it was just a crazy year. Next year we should be out rippin a whole lot more. Thanks for the support! we have snow now too after a super mild fall