วีดีโอ

@@dannybarnhill3052 not that I know of because they all vary in some way or another. Either the cap dimensions are unique or the collar is a different size and it may not be centered. Caulking is fine as long as the surface is cleaned with some type of solvent and a quality sealer is used. We’ve never had a problem.

We usually run a little bit of sealer around the edge before we snap it into the hole. Go to my video list and you will see that we have a full video explaining everything.

No problems so far but if it does get patina you can usually buff it off with Flitz or other mild metal polish.

@ just read a 13 page discussion on Blade Forum about the DLT Bark River Magnacut Santoku “staining”. Response much appreciated!

I'll try to get by there and check it out. In my experience I have two BRK/Tope Water Moccasins in Magna-cut and they both show signs of patina from use. I don't have a problem with it at all, kinda gives it some character.

@ seems like consensus on forum was that Magnacut was highly resistant to stain/“patina”, to the point many many accusations it wasn’t Magnacut steel from long time owners of many Magnacut knives. All of it is confusing to me to the point of hesitation of ordering WA BR Santoku. Blade Forum discussion also had photos a WA handled Santoku?????? 🤷🏽🤷🏽🤷🏽🤷🏽🤷🏽

@@barbarajohnson385 0.64 pounds

@@michaelbartlett9218 after you mount them on the gutter you put your elbow on it for your downspout. Makes a quick and easy installation.

@@sharpgirlsSerious Gutters and downspouts

They use foam mounding as a base form and then cover it with stucco

Sometimes we design the gutter so it will accept a standard 6" seamless gutter hanger. When the gutter size won't allow it then we get a strip of metal 3" wide by the opening of the gutter plus 1". So in other words, if the gutter is an 8" gutter then we cut a strip of metal 3" by 9", double it up so now it is 1-1/2" wide (brake it right down the middle and flatten) and then turn up one inch on the end so that it is now an "L" that is 8" x 1" if that makes sense. Then you fasten it on the inside of the front lip of the gutter and then put a screw into the 1" leg on the back like a regular hanger and you're good to go. We will usually punch a 3/16" hole on that 1" leg to allow for the screw. As long as they are all consistantly the same length then the gutter will come out straight after installation. Hope this helps.

@at-the-509 that's great info thanks. I used your box offset tutorial to make my fist box downspouts. They came out really good.

@@mruss2746that’s great, I’m glad they’re helping you out

They had a small run a little while back. Hopefully they’ll do it again soon

@@SolarSpaClub a 30° angle would be more of taking a third off of a 45° angle instead of a quarter. When I get into the tricky angles, I usually grab a standard protractor and mark the angle and then just trace it all the way around the downspout. Hope this helps.

​@@at-the-509thanks. Is the process otherwise the same? The bending and the flaps?

@@SolarSpaClub yes it’s the same

@@MikeHeck-t7e we don’t usually put our corners together without using strip miters, it’s a separate piece made to cover up the gap where the gutters meet. These are usually available at your bigger home stores. Let me know if you need any help with them

@@at-the-509 Okay thanks I will check them out!

It’s a review not an advertisement. I don’t think I said the word “new” in the whole video. It was new to me at the time.

@@alejomago7656 sure. Give me a little bit of time and I will

Half round template video is up now, check it out 😊

Sorry I missed your comment but its a 305 and the jump starter should start any size engine

Sorry for the late reply. Yes, I have used it in the kitchen and it cuts like a laser. It's a very thin blade and is very slicey. I cut an onion so fast that 'it' cried!

Basically the same thing but instead of having the miter go long on the front, it's longer on the backside