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this is an old design. If you look at the Gamma 2 or Gamma 2 Turbo videos on my channel, you'll find a suggested part list in their description.

I never sold mini z bodies.

have you applied any oil or wd40 to the spinning parts? It will help reduce friction all around. Because of how the car is built (vertically), keeping the 2 front wheels symmetric is somewhat of a difficult task, so there is some difference in their internal structure, which means that one will likely suffer a bit more friction than the other until they have been broken in (after some time driving them around). With gripper tires it will definitely help, and even more so if you drive on a grippy surface such as a foam track, or a concrete road.

@@underengineered_1077 Alright thank you, yes I did lubricate them. I used some thin viscosity bearing oil instead of WD40 though, seems to work pretty well. I'll try and see if it handles better with some even grippier tires :D

@@underengineered_1077 i found out what went wrong! I had the steering endpoints set slightly differently so when steering to one side, the outside wheel was pulled in further when the inside wheel was already at full lock, resulting in the car understeering like crazy and refusing to oversteer when turning that way. I set them better now and it's improved by a lot

@@ValRC1 glad to hear it. Sorry for the late response. TH-cam doesn't warn me when i get replies, for some reason.

You can see the kind of batteries i use at 6:55 There are no bluetooth components. You can find the recommended electronics (controller as well) listed in the description of the build guide here: th-cam.com/video/X2ae7fGiUiQ/w-d-xo.html

the sg90 servo will be too large. You will need a 3.7 gram servo (i linked some cheap but reliable ones in the description). I'm not sure of the size of arduino 5v dc motors. If you intend to go the brushed motor route, you will need a 130 size motor (you can find them by searching up "130 dc motor" ). In the description i listed all the low budget stuff that i personally use on these cars.

no, they are built in the design

i used a stock ender 3 pro

yes, the frames you see in this video are all PLA.

what do you mean?

supersonic twinkie?

When you say cut out, do you mean completely through the chassis? the "Gamma 2.0" should be embedded in the chassis such that you only see it when you lift the car up to a light source. If it's cut all the way through, then there's something incorrect in the slicer settings.

@@underengineered_1077 Yes, it's cut all the way through. I'll check the slicer settings carefully before I print it again. Thanks.

@@MrRob1426 yeah, it definitely should not be doing that. It sounds like there’s something in the profile related to the nozzle that’s making the lines print larger than 0.4mm

yes but not recommended. You'll just be doing donuts all the time, unless you run it on a super grippy surface with super grippy tires.

Ok thanks@@underengineered_1077

3500-5000kv. There’s a link in the description to the motor and esc i use.

Thank you. It has made quite a transformation from the one you printed for the Poundland car. It's essentially the same frame evolved over time, and it will keep evolving.

You really have polished this. It was great at the start, now it is amazing 👍👍@@underengineered_1077

Thanks. It's been a work of passion. I'll keep improving it.

Hi. Glad you like it. :) Did the axle break, or the little narrow piece on the frame? I made a 8/9 tooth pinion before, but FDM printers aren't really good at printing gears that size. It works well enough with 12 teeth or more, but 8/9 teeth with a 2mm hole for the shaft starts getting too difficult for it, unless you use a 0.3mm nozzle. Where did you get your pinion? I have a link in the description where i got mine. I get 10 for 3 dollars.

@@underengineered_1077 the piece that broke was the narrow part on the chassis. as for the pinion I ordered some plastic ones off amazon. though claiming it was a 2mm hole it was smaller and when I tried to make it bigger with the drill press it snapped. please do send the stl file or link to print pinion as I do have a .3mm nozzle on hand.

Thank you. Sorry, i will not make a modification for other motor sizes. 130 motor size is the most common size for this scale.

The car requires 0.5 module 8 or 9 tooth pinions. I usually mount the 8 tooth for the normal one, and 9 for the loose. "0.5 module" is the tooth size. The 8 tooth pinion is about 5mm in diameter. The 9 tooth, slightly more.

@@underengineered_1077 thank you very much. I finished the car and it works great. I bought some more filament so I could make another to race with my friend.

tik tok shorts? Someone loaded one of my vidoes on tik tok?

Any as long as the internal diameter is 18-20mm. The rim is 20mm so even if it's a little smaller it's fine, since it can stretch over.

Sorry to hear it's not printing right. What are your 2 printers and what pla colors were you using? Do your printers have mods? This stl is definitely harder to print than the average, because it has a bunch of little intricate moving parts close together, but it's designed to work on a stock ender 3 pro. The brim petals version has little tabs on the 2 bottom wheels that will help with adhesion to the print bed. They are designed in such away to be easily removable, after the print is done. They are sort of shaped like flower petals, which is where i came up with the name.

@Under Engineered I have unmodded CR-10S Pro V2 and an Ender 3 V2 Neo. I used a white PLA and a black PLA+. I just tried again, slicing my own with 50% infill, 215 nozzle temp and 50mm/s and they both worked. The white PLA turned out better than the black PLA+.

@@GuardianGrove i haven't tested pla+. The car's designed to work with PLA or PETG (works better with petg). My best results for pla come at 201c, while 235 for petg. Glad it worked out though.

It was an exact replica of a Kyosho Mini Z car. I had an old one with some broken parts, so I started to 3d model those broken parts to print some replacements..then i got carried away and modeled the whole chassis. :D

@@underengineered_1077 nice is that something your sharing or selling?

@@ripriotrc4561 eventually will be made available.

It's one that i designed. It's called the "Butthead" :D It's included in the downloadable STL in the description.

I aim for 45 degrees, but sometimes it will vary depending on the geometry of the car. Depending on where a car has its curves, it will change what angle you'll want to get the best resolution. But generally speaking, 45 degrees is the best place to start.

Yeah, some lubrication is definitely required. I’ve tried to run the car dry before, and eventually the motor melts the axle. I will make sure to mention that in the next tutorial video. Glad you got it working with PLA+.

@@underengineered_1077 Honestly for those that just want to print and go, even vaseline would work. Small tubes of white lithium grease can be found at most hardware stores for next to nothing. I have a variety of RC grease, but even the simplest solutions should work for this.

@@mikesyr wd40 as well

finally someone noticed! 😁

Did you finish playing with your little Wankel? :D

@@underengineered_1077 didnt even start it

Hi Mimoy. I have a more advanced version of this chassis under development, which does in fact incorporate a front suspension mechanism. I designed it so you can either slide in some springs, like you said, or use a rubberband. You can find pictures of that chassis on my instagram, or you can see it in my video titled "The Gamma - One Year Later" at timestamp 7:43. It might be possible to fit some VERY short springs under the loose version of this car. I'll have to try that.

@@underengineered_1077 alright, I'll check it out 👌👍

i included some tire files with the latest version. I uploaded the files on thingiverse and cults today. The link is in the description of my latest video.

@@underengineered_1077 Thanks! Gonna print one out tomorrow since I broke my other two trying to jerry rig some smaller parts in there and turned out I need that little arm between the servo and the steering rack hole, so I'm gonna make that too.