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Wanako Sabe
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 3 ก.พ. 2019
Banjo Bolt Replacement / 2013 Mercedes C250 W204
Known issue: Blue smoke from exhaust when the cold engine is restarted.
Validity: Vehicles with engine 271.8 EVO
Shortly after engine start a clearly visible cloud of blue smoke can emerge from the rear muffler of the exhaust system. This smoke cloud dissipates immediately and does not necessarily reappear at every restart. This can occur in some cases when a cold engine is started after the vehicle has been parked for several hours.
According to the Mercedes TSB LI09.40-P-055396, it is sufficient to install a new Banjo bolt with integral valve as a remedy. NHTSA# : 10062595
Parts needed:
1. Mercedes Banjo Bolt Part#: A0019972401
2. Mercedes-Benz O-RING Part #: A0239978548
3. Mercedes Turbo Charger Oil Line Gasket/Sealer Ring #: N000000006513
(Note: Make sure the crush washer I.D. is 10mm)
The car featured in this video is a 2013 C250/W204 with 28775 miles in the odo.
Validity: Vehicles with engine 271.8 EVO
Shortly after engine start a clearly visible cloud of blue smoke can emerge from the rear muffler of the exhaust system. This smoke cloud dissipates immediately and does not necessarily reappear at every restart. This can occur in some cases when a cold engine is started after the vehicle has been parked for several hours.
According to the Mercedes TSB LI09.40-P-055396, it is sufficient to install a new Banjo bolt with integral valve as a remedy. NHTSA# : 10062595
Parts needed:
1. Mercedes Banjo Bolt Part#: A0019972401
2. Mercedes-Benz O-RING Part #: A0239978548
3. Mercedes Turbo Charger Oil Line Gasket/Sealer Ring #: N000000006513
(Note: Make sure the crush washer I.D. is 10mm)
The car featured in this video is a 2013 C250/W204 with 28775 miles in the odo.
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Oil Change/2013 Mercedes Benz C250 DIY made easy…
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What is the part number of the U13 Chip?
I found in the description above. Thank you!
Hi. first i wanna thank you for posting this video. That part no longer available on Digi-Key Mouser . Please advise if any other store to get them from. thanks in advance.
Google Search Engine is your friend. Type the part number MAX809JTRG in the search box.
Thank you for the detailed video. Mine seems to be behaving in the same manner so I plan on trying your repair. Wish you the best :)
I have completed the diagnostics you provided and indeed I had all correct measurements except TP14. I will replace U13 as you suggest. My failed Trol happened following a nearby lightning strike. I'll let you know how it goes. You may want to update your part references. The 863-MAX809JTRG and MAX809JTRGOSCT-ND are obsolete and no longer available. The DigiKey site offers some substitute options. I am going to use TCM809JVLB713.😄 I will also suggest you can restore the conformal coating on low temp components with a bit of clear nail polish.
Thank you for the helpful video. I realize that removing oil and coolant banjo bolts on the turbine can be done without draining the liquids. Any advice should the engine be hot, slightly warm or cold as the outside temperature before unscrewing the bolts and the heat shield 🤔
So sorry but I am just a car owner and was not in a position to give any advice. I did mine when the engine was cold if that matters. Thank you!
@@wanakosabe2093 today i tried on a slightly warm engine. Not so warm so didn't used gloves. All bolts were unscrewed successfully
10:58 what would be the process after finding power to pin four but still no LCD screen lit up how to troubleshoot the actual screen itself what is the process if you know it much appreciated and awesome videos thank you thank you thank you
There is no available circuit diagram for the display bd. But the easy way is to swap the display bd with a known good GLX-PCB-DSP. You can buy, return it at no cost, and/or sell it back. The choice is yours.
Question... what if J14 and Pin 4 are good. Does that mean display board is bad?
If 5 Vdc is present with the display bd in place then it's probably a bad display bd. Inspect the display bd and use an electronic spray cleaner to clean the contacts.
Ma’am I have a Hayward goldmine aqua plus (G1-011049F-1 F) board. My display is out but the system is running, does this video apply to my board? Thank you
Nope! This is for the Hayward Aquarite mainboard (GLX-PCB-RITE) and Hayward Aquatrol (GLX-PCB-TROL). The Hayward AquaPlus mainboard (GLX-PCB-MAIN) is entirely different from what is shown in this video.
Very good, thanks
這是引擎油道通到渦輪增壓器潤滑的嗎？
I have this issue and have replaced the mother board and still have no power or display. What else could be the issue?
What do you mean by "No Power"? The troubleshooting shown above assumed that the 30-32VDC is present between the Blk and Red terminal on the top right-hand corner of the board. Could you make sure you have an incoming AC power to the bd? If the voltage reading on all the test points agrees with what is shown in the video, you may have a bad display bd.
Good job! I really appreciate the effort to get the camera shots that show how the job is done.
Hi, my car has white smoke exhaust not blue smoke, any advices to fix it sir?
So sorry but I am just a car owner who DIY'ed a TSB following the car manufacturer. The Google search engine usually gets the attention of the experts to answer your questions. Thanks and have a nice day!
bro ur headgasket is cooked
@@fzaan5 TROLL spotted...😂😂😂😂
@@Bisk0ts0 who are u?
Congratulations on making a good video. Very clear narration and good filming.
Woo merry Christmas in advance
Thanks for the video. Am going to attempt the diagnostic - where do u connect the black multimeter tip?
@1:27 connect the blk test lead to the R15 Negative metal post labeled .015Ω
Just like others in the comments, after a thunder storm, my unit stopped working. Came across this video and followed it to a T. No prior experience with Soldering and I was able to fix my Unit and save Hundreds of dollars $$$. Thank you so much for posting this video. Worked on revision board 147 just the same. “Patience” was the most important part. Lol. Thank you so much.
You're welcome! Glad I could help. You have Hayward Aquatrol revision 1.47, the newest and most reliable circuit bd. 👍
I’d fixed my Dolphin Premier by following your advice. Thank you!
@Anibal_Torres The Aquarite sw r1.59 and the Aquatrol sw r1.47 share the same PCB template. This can be easily identified by the presence of the small relay above the R15 negative post or below the black disc on the top right-hand corner of the pcb. Other than that, you need to push the diagnostic button on the left-hand side of the display. Provided your system is working. The TFP wiki section might help you > www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hayward_Aquarite_SWG#Aquarite_No_Lights_and_No_Display
Good advice! Something that Maytronics never advice.👍
Hello, I have a Hayward board without a display, only with leds. The reference numbers that appear on the board are G1-066159-1 REV A and 090052-100-01 of the Salt&swim 3C salt chlorinator. It doesn't turn on any LEDs. I don't have an electronic diagram to check the test voltages. Where could I find this information? Thank you
Try to reach Hayward Customer Support-Center >>>hayward.com/support/support-center
@@wanakosabe2093 Thank you very much for your input. I have sent them an email through the link you have provided.
@@wanakosabe2093 Hello, I have contacted Hayward and they have told me that this information is not public. But I have replaced the two capacitors and the current limiting NTC and it is working correctly. Thanks for your help.
@@fjmorales1939 Good job! 👏Thanks for the update.
Thanks for the video. I need to replace the impeller motor. What kind of sealant did you use to prevent water from leaking into the unit?
Magic Lube 5 OZ Teflon based - #631
Maytronics recommends MOLYCOTE 111 @@wanakosabe2093
Maytronics recs: MOLYCOTE 111
Hi Wanako. I think your video is very informative. By any chance you know what part number is the dial to adjust the percentage of the chlorine? Mine seems to jump all over if I want to adjust more or less chlorine. Thanks in advance ;)
Sorry, but I don't know the part#. However, an electronic cleaner spray might help. The % output potentiometer on the Hayward GLX-PCB-DSP is a 4-Terminal,10k with D-Shaft. A direct-fit replacement pot is available, you just have to do the research. For more info, please take a gander at post#8 from the link > www.troublefreepool.com/threads/output-does-not-match-the-adjustment-knob.235353/#post-2060958
@@wanakosabe2093 thanks for your help and super fast response. I love your video and your patience.
...si je peux encore vous poser une question.... Il y avait de l'eau dans le bloc moteur lorsque je l'ai ouvert. J'ai tout nettoyer ainsi j'ai également ouvert chaque moteurs. Et ils fonctionnent quand je les branche sur une prise separemment. Lorsque je débranche les moteurs de traction (pas celui du ventilateur...) Ça se met en marche puis ça s'arrête mais il y a du courant dans les bornes du moteur. Par contre que je rebranche les moteurs rien ne se met en marche et il n'y a même pas de courant.... Merci de votre aide...
Sorry, but I don't understand your remarks. I am just a pool owner and have no in-depth technical knowledge of the equipment other than what was shown in the video. Thank you.
Si vous ne branchez qu'un seul des 2 moteurs de traction, cela donne quoi ? Et inversement ? Le problème se situe sans doute du côté de la carte électronique de commande des moteurs. Vérifiez l'absence d'oxydation sur les pistes de la carte, n'hésitez pas à pulvériser dessus un produit spécial contre l'oxydation des cartes électroniques. Puis contrôlez l'état des condensateurs (à l'aide d'un capacimètre ou d'un multimètre équipé d'une telle fonction) et des gros transistors. Un ou plusieurs de ces composants peut-être endommagé et donc ne plus remplir son office donc en définitive une intensité insuffisante aux bornes d'un/des moteurs empêchant alors sa/leur rotation. Si vous n'avez pas de capacimètre alors je vous suggère de tentez dans un premier temps le remplacement des condensateurs par des neufs de mêmes caractéristiques techniques (prendre de type électrolytique, de même tension et de même capacité en Farad) ;) Tenez-moi au courant ici
@@heavoc9793 wo c'est hyper gentil de votre réponse détaillée mais ça a l'air au dessus de mes capacités... Cette carte électronique courte 50euros je pense que j'irais en racheter et puis c'est tout ... Du côté des moteurs...il y a du courant qui arrivent dans leur bornes mais dès que je les branches, rien du tout... Mais quand j'en branche que un il y a une borne qui marche uniquement. Je branche les deux plus rien...
hii
Thanks for the visit 👋
this is brilliant - great work my friend
Many thanks
Hi. If TP13 shows 0 Volts, and then TP14 and the 4th pin connector showing 0V as well, is it related to the same chip (U13) being faulty?
No! If TP13 shows 0 volt then the TP14 test is invalid. What is the voltage reading at R17 as shown @2:00? If the reading is 0, focus on the upstream components. Inspect the F1 20A fuse, check for loose or burnt wiring connections, bridge rects and confirm the incoming AC supply at TB-1 is present. Please reference my other video if you are troubleshooting in front of the control panel th-cam.com/video/aGQCJ-GXW5Y/w-d-xo.html
@@wanakosabe2093 Thank you very much for your response. I did all the other tests per the video at the link you suggested. I am getting 33V between R15 and the red terminal, the 20A fuse looks fine as well. On the R17 resistor lead, I am getting 24V and 23 V on the other side of resistor just like in your video. Now when I go to measure for 5V on TP13, I get a reading of 0. Would the issue be the 5V regulator itself or are there any tests that I should be performing? Obviously, as mentioned, any of the following tests with TP14 and the 4th pin on the display, give 0V reading. Not sure what else I should be testing as possible cause. Thank you 😊
@@razvanchircu3017 On the Aquarite, the 78M05 is the fixed voltage regulator and it consists of 3 terminals. Terminal #1 (In) is tied directly to the 23Vdc side of the R17 via circuit trace. Therefore, terminal #1 should read 23V. If false, inspect for a broken circuit trace but if the 23Vdc is present and terminal#3 is 0V then the voltage regulator is faulty. Here's a wiki to the Hayward Aquarite to expand your knowledge > www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hayward_Aquarite_SWG
Where can I send this board to be checked
With the pump off, the no flow light is solid red and the display shows a salt level reading. when the pump is activated, there are no lights and the display goes blank. Even though the board is dark when pump runs, it appears to be generating chlorine. Would appreciate thoughts on how to troubleshoot and fix?
Pardon the delay! Do you have Aquarite or Aquatrol model? Would you know the software version? If you have the older version, inspect the condition of the Thermistor. Thanks
Kamay mo ba yan 😂😂😂
opo 😂
After a lightning storm, I had the same problem. You must be able to solder, surface mount. Might as well get extras. At 59 cents each not a big deal. Dropped one. Never found. Thank you so much 💓 better than a $425 board!
You're welcome. Glad I could help.
Hello ! What it can be if I have no voltage and no resistance from the R15 and TP14. ? Thank you
You are a life saver, thanks so mich for the info!!!
Thanks! Glad I could help 👍
Where can I but the part for the aqua troll rj board
Please take a moment to read the description box. Thank you and hope this helps you fix your Aquatrol mainboard.
Hello, thanks for the video. Question, regarding the AC voltage. When I measure AC input across pins 1 & 4, I only get 4VAC. If I measure pin 1 to GND, I get 115VAC and pin 4 to GND, I get 118 VAC. All my DC Voltages read zero.
Check the electrical Circuit breaker or GFCI. Engage an Electrician if you are not comfortable working around electricity. The troubleshooting steps shown in this video will not help you address the missing 120-240VAC. I assumed you are wired for 240Vac! Never measure TB1-1 or 4 against the Gnd post!
Great video! My display lights are out, but if I remove and replace it on the riser pins, it will appear to start working. Flashing red light for no flow, then progress to green generate light, with the yellow check cell flashing. As soon as the yellow light stops, all lights go out. Is this symptomatic of a different issue? Or, is this a similar case as the board in your video?
The symptoms you described are pointing to a different issue! Sounds like you have a bad thermistor or bad solder joint. Google search "how to repair the Aquarite mainboard" or "Aquarite no cell power". Thanks
@@wanakosabe2093 exactly right! I had replaced the thermistor months ago, and it was visibly loose from a bad solder joint. Fixed now. Thanks again!
This is way too complicated...
Watched your video a couple of days ago to diagnose my board and determined that the U13 chip died. Ordered the part from digikey, installed it today and everything is back up and running. Fixed it for less than $10. Thank you for your help!
Good job 👏Glad I could help.
OKAY HOW YOU KNOW THAT PARTS NO GOOD , AND ALSO WHERE YOU BUY THIS PARTS
An input current is present in the device but is not passing through at no load. Electricity can kill. Please do the smart thing, take a moment to read the description. Thank you!
I followed your helpful steps and feel that I have the same issue with U13. I can here the hum of the power supply when I plug it in and there is no display or power lights. However, I don't hear a clicking sound when the unit is switched to on. Normally I heard a click after a few seconds after turning the switch to auto. Is this 2 separate issues?
If the 5Vdc is missing at TP4, the microcontroller and all the chips onboard will not function.
Wanako Sabe I checked and it’s there
@@scottiestewart2922 Am I understanding that the 5Volts dc is present at TP14? If yes, then the troubleshooting shown in this video is not going to help you fix your aquarite board. However, I may offer some assistance if you can describe in detail the symptoms you're having with your aquarite swcg. Thanks
and if I may, allow me to redirect you to the proper forum. There's a wealth of knowledge and very helpful members in there www.troublefreepool.com/forums/salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg.25/
@@wanakosabe2093 Thank you so much for your help. I have followed the steps in the video and my results are as follows... red terminal = 31.28V R17 = 23.72V & 22.53V TP13 = 4.99V Display connector Pin 4 = 0 Remove Display Board TP13 = 4.99V TP14 = 4.99V Riser board pin 4 = 0 TP14 to R15 = 8 ohms Riser board pin 4 = 20 ohms I first noticed the display board and power lights were off after a big storm. When I plug ac to the unit I can hear a low hum from the transformer. However, when I switch the power switch to auto, I don't hear the clicking sound the unit normally makes after 15 seconds.
Before you replace your board. A question for you. !!! Are your display lights and numbers fidgeting ? If the are replace the display first. Its much cheaper than the board about $115 vs $400. If not try this also my own pool did this. I put an old board in that I had replaced the thermistor in. After a new aftermarket board lasted 2 days. I was confused about the salt level numbers saying 2.7 and red lights were on after 30 seconds or so. Turns out I needed to check all my settings. It was in metric was set for t-3 cell mine is t-15 and had to calibrate the salt level. I have a hand held electronic salt meter and it’s normally very close to the Hayward reading. I had to toggle it from off to auto a few times to get it to start counting down like you’ve seen in calibration videos then flip it up to super chlorinate and back to auto to hold the setting. But now lights are green and everything it good in the pool.
Thank you for chiming in, much appreciated! To learn more, here's the link to the Hayward AquaRite Settings and Frequently Asked Questions th-cam.com/video/j10mbSm5MTY/w-d-xo.html
where I can buy parts for circuit board
Amazon or EBay
You are awesome!!! This is electronics troubleshooting at its best. Thanks so much! I’d be happy to buy you a new solder sucker. Let me know where to send
I already bought 2 of those a while back but Thank you. That's nice of you!
Hi can you help me with diagram for thw wires to haword rectifiers on top right in the box [glx]
There are schematic diagrams floating around. Troublefreepool has wealth of knowledge waiting for you to unleash. Google Search should yield plenty of hits. See if the below link works. Otherwise, you have to do the leg work. Thanks! Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading | Trouble Free Pool www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hayward_Aquarite_SWG www.troublefreepool.com/threads/fuse-keeps-blowing-on-hayward-swim-pure-salt-water-panel.235066/
Hey I have a question in your c250 oil change I noticed an upgraded navigation system could you provide a tutorial of how to do do please it would be vary appreciative, thank you keep up the great videos.
That is a Becker Map Pilot M078 (European Ver) bought new in 2015 bundled with 2016 US map/software free dld. It has worked well since except for the no-voice command (EU vs US ver incompatibility). Numerous attempts in migrating the M078 US map to my spare module M014 (US ver) were unsuccessful due to license nag. The annual Map & Sw update is available for USD99 via Becker Map Pilot sw updater. Google search should return some leads. Thanks
Thanks for the awesome video! It seems everyone is out of the MAX809JTRG. Newerk says they have 195, so I ordered from them. They say their expected to ship January 23, 2022. Is there an alternative part that would work?
My Hayward AquaRite control panel had this same issue after a nearby lightning strike. Thanks to your video, I was able to fix it for $20!
👍 Great job! Glad I could help.
Where could I get the U13 Part# MAX809JTRG ?
Please see the description box. Thank you!
@@wanakosabe2093 all good, found it at Newark Canada. The semiconductor MAX809JTRG micro processor costs about $1, better than $365 for a complete mother board which is what the manufacturer wants of course. Thank you again for the very informative video.
@@grafx-3signsrentals187 You are welcome. Glad I could help.
So, I have followed your troubleshooting procedure as I had a similar problem of no power light, no display. I have 5 volts at TP13, and no voltage at the TP14 point or Pin 4 for the display, and all other voltage is normal as you showed. However, when I remove the display board, I now see 5 volts at TP13, TP14, and pin 4! Resistance check at pin 4 9.5k ohms and TP14 is 7.8m ohms. Any suggestions on what to check next? Could the display board be causing the voltage drop? Thanks for any help, I appreciate your video! (I have older version of the PCB, I think rev C, with out the K4 relay, and I have already replaced the Thermister)
Sounds like you may have a bad display bd. Measure the resistance between pins 2 and 4 on the dsp bd. It should read about 10k and 4k in reverse. Fyi, pin 2 is Negative and pin 4 is positive. Try to follow pin# 4 circuit trace to narrow down the troubleshooting. Inspect the pot and probe the caps. If ok, assume bad chip.
This issue "thank god!" Is not going on with mine. Your video is very helpful for troubleshooting for other issues!! I opened my panel and right away noticed my voltage limiter split and in three pieces. What can I do to prevent over current? Is it just a thing? ...do I buy two is my question? Lol!! Thanks again for the vid. I'll check into getting some tools to do this work for myself. The tip on the probe electric tape was helpful in that I'm an electrical trouble shooter for hard problem in the auto industry. Def gonna do that!!
If the thermistor crumbled, split or cracked the lcd display should still work but no LED's. The mainboard featured on this video is the newest r1.59 build from which Hayward incorporates a K4 relay (right next to the limiter) to prevent the thermistor from overheating. I have not heard of the thermistor failing on the r1.59 build. But anyway, the thermistor failure is a known issues on the older Aquarite boards and Hayward used two different types of thermistor. It's either SL32 2R025 (Digi-Key Part Number 570-1062-ND) or AS32 2R025 (Digi-Key Part Number 570-1105-ND). The thermistor solder pads on some AQR boards are pre-drilled to take either of the two. The AS32 is known to last longer than the SL32 series. I'd suggest you watch some youtube videos on how to replace the thermistor on a Aquarite.
Hello, I have this same board, but have a different problem. Power light/LED comes on but the generating LED is not. I ended up replacing the main PCB which did fix it. I have replaced the current limiter before but I believe that is when the power LED is not lit up. I would like to repair the board but I have come up short on info. Any help would be appreciated.
Did you mean the generating LED does not come on at all or it does but briefly? Run the pump, move the switch to "Auto" and turn on the AC power to the swcg. The "No Flow" indicator should flash for 1 minute, followed by the "Generating LED". And 10 seconds later, you should hear the relay click. Sequentially push the Diagnostic button within 50 seconds after the relay clicked. Please post the diagnostic readings.