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Thank you!! I can only imagine how gross that would have been with all the moldy paper and whatnot!! This N64 is the worse I’ve seen. I bet you it was in someone’s damp moldy basement too!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Awooooooooooooo!!!!!🐺🐺🐺🐺 Thank you!!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!!! 🐺🐺😁😁

I like that idea a lot!!! I will keep a lookout for a really bad shell!! Thank you for that!! 😁😁🐺🐺

I don’t have an oscilloscope yet but I will definitely keep that in mind. I also have to try reflowing the chips. I haven’t tried that yet. 🐺🐺😁😁

Really??? I will have to give that a shot! Thank you!! 🐺🐺😁😁

🤣🤣🤣 Yes!!!!! My thoughts exactly!! Do every mod possible!! Thanks for the suggestion!! I’m definitely going to have to tear apart that power switch now and see what’s up!! 🐺🐺🐺😁😁😁

Thank you!! Low melt solder is the best!! I use it on anything that gives me a bit of trouble coming off. amzn.to/3Rui2uK 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed it!!🐺🐺😁😁

It definitely needs the caps replaced it has a harsh buzzing noise through the speakers when playing games. When I have the caps off I’m going to have to clean it like you said in the sink with soap and water because I still get grossed out when I touch it!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Yeah it’s really common and it’s always the same pin as well. I’m not sure if SEGA is to blame or it’s from misuse. SEGA did have some parts issues back then. 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!! I didn’t know either until I saw this one on eBay!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Yeah I didn’t know they made these until I found this one on eBay!! 🐺😁

That’s awesome you were able to fix your controller!!!! I’m glad the video was able to help you out!! 🐺🐺🐺🐺😁😁😁😁

I’m not sure if superglue would have held up to the heat of the soldering iron. I will give it a try next time though!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!! 🐺🐺😁😁

🤣 I agree!! I like that I can keep it on my desk and use it as clock!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you so much!! I appreciate all of you guys checking out the videos and commenting!! 😁😁🐺🐺

😁😁Thank you!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!! Glad that you enjoyed it!! 🐺😁

Awesome!! I’m glad the video was able to help you out!! 🐺🐺😁😁

That’s true. The damage was pretty close to the controller. 🐺😁

I did not know that there was a capacitor missing. Would you be able to let me know where it goes please? Thanks!! 🐺🐺😁😁

I’m glad this video was helpful!! I hope you’re able to get your SNES up and running!! Let me know what happens 🐺🐺😁😁

🤣🤣🤣 that’s awesome!!!! 🤣🤣🐺🐺🐺🐺

Yeah thats true I could have done that but then I wouldn’t have the little crimp on pins at the end of the wire to put through the board, but I guess I could have just tinned the wire. Maybe next time I will cut the wire 🐺😁

Thank you!! Awesome!! It’s a real satisfying and easy repair!! The more people know about this repair the less these cartridges end up in the garbage!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!! I appreciate that!! If it wasn’t for your video I wouldn’t have know how to repair this controller!! Joe did a great job in your video!! I’ve never used solder paste before it looks like it’s hard to control. The helping hands are excellent if you remember to tighten the screws🤣🤣🐺🐺

Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed it!! 🐺😁

Thank you, thank you!! I really appreciate all your help and your excitement for my videos!! It really makes me want to go and fix a bunch of stuff right now!!! 🐺🐺🐺😁😁😁

Thanks!! I’m going to have to check that out!! That would be pretty awesome having an OEM wireless controller!! 🐺🐺😁😁

@@wolfmanrepairs I took a quick look at the DIY kit on their site. I think it was a swap in replacement board. I guess it wouldn't be compatible with this fix, but I guess the intent was to make it as simple to do as possible.

Ah Ok. Still sounds like an awesome idea!! 🐺🐺😁😁

I hear that!! That’s why I bought 5!! I figured I could mess up 4 and still be ok!! 🤣🤣🐺🐺

@@wolfmanrepairs the 8 bit basement also has a cool video were they put a led light in a nes controler I did it to a couple of mine I evean ended up putting two leds in it evan though you only need about one But I wanted to try at least and see what I got and it worked

That sounds awesome!! I’m going to have to check that out and give it a try!!🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!!! I’m slowly getting better!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Awesome!! I was surprised they were still making them too!! Glad I could help!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Once you let the magic smoke out of electronics it’s hard to put it back in!! 🤣All joking aside, please don’t plug that power supply back in. Either there’s something shorted inside it or the capacitor has failed and that is what is smoking. If you want to send it to me I would totally take a look at it for you 🐺🐺😁😁

@@wolfmanrepairs Appreciate it, I already threw it out and ordered a new one from Gametrog.

Thank you!!!! I appreciate that!! 🐺🐺😁😁

That’s awesome!!! I’m glad my video was able to help you out!!! 🐺🐺🐺😁😁😁

I watched it again and It seemed like I was being negative and critical of the previous owner. I dont want to hurt anyone because that’s not what I’m or this channel is about. I’m all about fixing things and making people feel like they can fix things as well. So I decided to take it down. I will have to be mindful of that kinda stuff in the future…🐺😁

@@wolfmanrepairs I can understand that, and supremely thoughtful of you dude. I'm glad I got to see the video though, it was a pretty gnarly repair. You could always repost it with a clip attached to the end with a mention for the previous owner or something, perhaps. Either way though, I always appreciate your work 👍🏻

Thank you for understanding. I appreciate your support!! I’m going to re edit the video and repost it eventually. 🐺😁

I will see what I can do!! 🐺🐺😁😁

I agree!! It’s kinda nice to be able to see videos from all over the world from people who speak English but have different pronunciation for things or have quirky sayings for things!! 🐺🐺😁😁

It’s kinda amazing some batteries in these cartridges look brand new and have no voltage in them and others look 100 years old and have 3.1 volts in them!! If they had microSD cards in the 80s I could only imagine what video games would look like today!! 🐺😁

Thank you!! Yeah it was tough giving up on it!! Also I might have to look at it again just to see if I missed something!! 🤣🤣🐺🐺🐺

Awesome!! Glad to hear that!!! Yes bring a game bit screwdriver with you!! If the seller won’t let you open the games then you probably don’t want to buy from them!! Also I’ve seen games that work and they still have a ton of gross stuff / water damage on the inside!! 🐺🐺😁😁

I noticed that as well.

Good eye!! I removed the little piece of wire and popped the cartridge into the system but unfortunately it still doesn’t boot 🐺🐺🐺

I’m using the MG chemicals stuff. It was weird I usually don’t have an issue with it. I think the soldering iron tip is also getting old and I might have to replace it. My iron is set to 315c maybe I should bump it up a bit and see what happens!! 🐺🐺😁😁

@wolfmanrepairs Definitely! When desoldering, you have to use higher temps because the braid acts as a heat sink. It's trying to wick up solder and heat at the same time. Try not to apply the iron directly on the wick to drag it because once it cools off a little, it will get stuck. Try floating the wick around, instead of using the iron to sweep the braid across the pad, try holding the braid with tweezers and place it next to the molten solder and watch it wick all the way up 😎 Also if you wick isn't wicking, add some flux to the braid 😀 it will help.

Ah ok!!! I will give this a try!! I was wondering why the wick would get stuck sometimes!!! Thank you!! 🐺🐺😁😁

@@rubenmejia4881 is 375 c ok that’s what I’m useing

Yes!! I’m definitely going to have to give that a shot!! Thank you!! 🐺🐺🐺😁😁😁

Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed it!! 🐺🐺😁😁

Thank you!! I’m going to have to revisit it at some point!! I’ve tried to use the really thin wire before but I’m going to need some more practice with it!! 🐺🐺😁😁

@wolfmanrepairs I hear you the easiest way I found out to use it was when I did the starfox trace repair I was telling you about. At first, I thought it was going to be a nightmare of how thin it is and to remove the coating, but it was actually easy once I caught on and understood how to do it. Pretty much you solder the first point, then route the wire. As you heat up the second point, the coating will burn off, and then the wire sticks to the solder. Bob's your uncle at that point. Give it a try! 😀😁

I’m going to have to give it another try!! The last time I used it it was flopping all over the place so I went with the thicker wire. 🐺🐺😁😁

@wolfmanrepairs lol in easier terms that I just thought about, it was like dipping French fries into ketchup. I put down a blob of solder first, then dipped and held the wire in for a few seconds. I would wait until the solder cooled off to give the wire a tug if it stuck, then it was a solid joint. I could lift up the whole board without the wire detaching or breaking. It's how I knew the first joint went well. The second joint similar method, I put down solder and kept it molten with the iron, I placed the wire in position for a few seconds. You should see the wire turn silver when it's in between the solder. Once you do, lay it down and wait until the solder cools off. At that point, lift off the remaining wire. Both joints would be rock solid, and at that point, you can trim off the excess because it's a solid connection. Rinse & repeat for every trace that needs it done. Alternatively, for the second point, you can hold the area of the wire that needs to be connected on the iron to tin it. Once you see silver, that part of the coating is removed and and you can place it into position. I hope the way I described it makes sense and clicks when you practice it. Let me know how that works out for you. Try it on a scrap board first to get the idea rolling.

Bro!! That’s an awesome analogy!! Dipping French fries into ketchup!! I might have to borrow that!! 🍟🍟🐺🐺😁😁