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Thank you. Actually no. The brick side of my house is the reason I made an intake baffle for that sound. The insulation in the baffle does a great job at cutting way down on the sound on that side. I could have done the same thing on the exhaust side but I'm more concerned about airflow for the exhaust, plus the closest house is about 1/2 acre behind me.

Come on by. We'll order some pizza and get er done. 😜

Wow, thank you very much. The 2 biggest upgrades for me since the initial build were to bury both the electrical and natural gas and bring them up into the shed. I have this in a shorter follow up video. Having the connections in the shed itself makes things just so much easier not having to mess with an electrical cord or natural gas hose. Both can stay connected all of the time. I just have to take off the exhaust cover, open the intake flap, turn on gas valves, prime, start, and turn off main/turn on backfeed breaker. I hope I am able to help with ideas. Even though I could probably do more to quiet things, I can barely hear it when running from my bedroom behind it so I am pleased with the result. I also changed out the electrical coupler for an exhaust coupler as the electrical coupler just wasn't holding tightly.

If memory serves me right I used a piece of aluminum sheet from a local supplier and bent it in my metal brake (since I happen to have one). You could also use wide roof drip edge, which is what I used over the doors. Or you can get like 20 or 22 gauge aluminum sheet and bend it with on a bench with clamps and a straight edge.

Thx. 5th gen Altima are from 2013-2018 so the same method should apply. Actually the same basic method works on about any car with necessary tweaks. I would however plug in your year and double check to make sure on the part numbers before you order them.

@HowToDoStuf ok thanks for replying

The metal ring is from Amazon: VBENLEM Fire Pit Ring 36-Inch Outer/30-Inch Inner Diameter, 10inch Height Fire Pit Insert 2.5mm Thick Heavy Duty Solid Steel, Fire Pit Liner DIY Campfire Ring Above or In-Ground for Outdoor a.co/d/2px0ton. The blocks are Ashland retaining wall blocks from Lowes that I cut and put together.

Thank you very much. Yes, the neutral on my inverter is floating. From what I've seen, inverter gens tend to have floating neutrals, although to be honest I'm not sure why. Depending on what happens with the remnants of hurricane Helene rolling through our area in TN tonight / tomorrow and power lines, I may have to crank my Gen up. It's nice knowing it's ready if need be.

Mine was mostly made from scrap metal I had available at work, but is not something I can make for others.

If your year Altima came with a dipstick, then by all means use it. The 2012 service manual (available online in pdf) should tell you if they use the fill bolt procedure on the 2012, but if there is a dipstick it should be accurate. The problem with my 2014 is there is a dipstick tube but no dipstick. I haven't found a dipstick that I can use with mine to get an accurate reading.

The issue of noise comes with trade offs to be made. Doing insulated earth covered concrete filled cinderblock walls and ceiling would for sure do a lot. There are a lot of other approaches and materials that can be used also like acoustic soundproofing, but the question of costs vs return and practicality comes into play. Building something like that would cost way, way more and be impractical to build. Do I want to spend $2k+, or does the $700ish shed do what I need it to do? Adequate airflow is another consideration. With the current fan my temps in the shed run between 10-13 degrees f higher than outside ambient which is very manageable unless it's really hot out. I thought of having a 90 on the outlet also, but I didn't want to impede the airflow and heat removal. If my house was closer to another behind me, then I still would have considered this. It however is about 1/2 acre to houses behind mine, so a little more noise on the exhaust side isn't going to bother anyone. The shed as it is absorbs enough sound that the exhaust side isn't that much louder, and from the neighbor's house a 1/2 acre behind me it makes no difference. With the setup as is, I can just hear it inside my house in our bedroom which is right in front of the shed, and it isn't bothersome at all. That is what I was shooting for. Also, we fortunately have very infrequent power outages. If all of my neighbors are out they are just going to pull their gens out into their yards and blast away.

I'm sorry but I don't have anything put together in pdf format that I can send you.

The fire brick I used I got from Tractor Supply: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/us-stove-single-firebrick They are 4 1/2" x 9". I have a video (th-cam.com/video/2utjcat17hk/w-d-xo.html) where I talk about how I measured and cut the bricks under the metal ring based on the slope of the bottom (as the entire pit is sloped with the paver patio for drainage) so they would evenly touch the bottom of the metal ring. I first tried high temp silicone to seal between the fire bricks and the metal ring, but it didn't hold up. I went back and simply smeared Rutland refractory mortar where they join. It has held up just fine. I didn't put mortar in-between the fire bricks on the bottom for drainage purposes. I'm curious what you mean when you say you are not going to have a double wall? The whole point of sealing where the fire bricks meet the metal ring is for directed airflow through the double wall. That double wall with holes in the top of the ring works great at reburning the smoke.

@@HowToDoStuf thank you brother! I just miss worded what I planned to do… sorry about that. Yea I will have the double wall. I ordered my fire block sealant and mortar, It should come tomorrow. I’m picking up my retaining wall stone also. One guy used stainless steel at the bottom, but I’m going to do what you did. I’m thinking about cementing the bottom, then it will be easier to clean up after each fire. Thank you again.

@@brianmorrison9937 You can cement the bottom together, but there really is no need to. With the firebricks bedded in sand right next to each other, I literally just use a small whisk broom and dustpan and sweep out the ashes, which takes less than 10 min total. I didn't mortar in the bottom in case water got into the bottom of the pit because otherwise the bottom is going to be like a small swimming pool. I think the fire brick is a better idea than a stainless bottom as with an inch or two of sand and the fire bricks in the bottom, heat getting under the pit from coals isn't going to be a problem. I don't want the heat getting to the gravel underneath that. You could use a stainless steel bottom I guess with a few inches of sand under it to insulate, but you would need to make an extension to the metal fire pit ring to have metal against metal to seal the bottom edges. I didn't want to try to make an extension for the metal ring because when the metal ring eventually rusts out, I can simply take it out, put a new one in, and just put more mortar as needed to seal the firebrick/metal ring joint. I'd like to see the final result once you get it done. The weather is about to start cooling down so we are looking forward to having fires this fall.

@@HowToDoStuf I'm getting it done a little at a time. I got all three layers sealed with fire brick mortar and sealer. My fire ring sets on top really good. I got a 2" air gap between the wall and fire ring. I'm cutting the 1" holes at the top of the fire ring tomorrow. I cut the fire bricks in half the long ways cause I only had 2" of air gap under the fire ring. I'll have to bury the fire brick just a little bit and the fire ring will sit on top of them. Did you use regular mortar or fire brick mortar to seal the fire brick around the bottom? I'm trying to decided on my pavers for the center and how to align them. As you mention, I probably will not mortar them so water can seep in between them. But as you done, I will mortar the pavers to the fire brick. I think I will forgo creating a center vent and just put 2" holes at the bottom of the fire ring. I plan to put another layer of retaining wall brick on top of the fire ring to help seal the top. Plus a 4th row will look nice.

Absolutely. Not having to fight with cables and hoses especially if the weather is bad is a huge plus. Having the electrical and gas buried makes things so much easier.

I went more into making the air intake itself here: th-cam.com/video/caXPWItQP5Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vE7oWW5mQ0gl-bTl. It's 4" aluminum dryer vent encased in concrete with a mesh piece outside where it comes out of the retaining wall so as to keep animals from trying to make a home in the vent. It really works fantastic!

@@HowToDoStuf I’m sorry. I should have been more specific. I’m trying to recreate your end cap. What was the 4” round and extension pieces that you drilled? I’ve looked all over Home Depot and can’t figure it out

Thanks ✌

Thanks a lot 😊

I did, but I didn't show it in the video. I just mentioned that I did change it and roughly what needs to be done to get to it. There are already a bunch of videos about changing the trans filter so I didn't go into detail.

I hope this is helpful to you. I did one other video like it for a Honda FIT using the same basic approach except of course for the filter, pan, etc. being different on the FIT. I'm almost due to do this again on my 2014 Altima again.

Wow. I appreciate that.

The hard part about those decibels rating is the ones I see differ on how they are taken. Most I've seen rate them at 20' or more away so the ratings can be deceitful. The ratings also don't reflect the quality of the noise as the pitch and rumblings also effect perceived noise. Then there is closed VS open frame. Mine is an open frame which of course is louder than closed frame, but costed a lot less.

Thanks. I hope the video helps. I prefer to use actual car Manu dealer fluid in any of my transmissions. Honda DW-1 in this case. I actually bought it from a local dealer as it surprisingly was less from them than online. I know plenty of people use aftermarket trans fluids, and that may be fine, but I prefer to play it safe and stick with OEM.

Thanks. Good question. I ran #6 Romex from the back feed breaker through the wall below my panel into the crawl space. The Romex is attached under the floor joists and run through a hole I drilled in the brick and cinderblock foundation (lined with pvc pipe to prevent chafing) into a large junction box. Romex is not rated for wet underground use. The box is the brown one mounted to the side of the house. This is wire nutted to four #8 thhn wires in 3/4“ conduit run straight down 18" below grade (per NEC). The conduit comes back up right next to the shed and through the shed siding into the SS2-50P inlet box. Does this answer your question? I tried to be as specific as possible.

@@HowToDoStuf Great!. Thanks!

I've never seen Lucas CVT fluid. I've played it safe and used genuine Nissan fluid. I've heard a number of people recommend Amsoil.

@@HowToDoStuf Amsoil & Lucas are both absolutely best you can get your hands on

I'm not sure why you are saying you have to remove the PS pulley. I replaced mine without doing so with no problem.

Maybe he remove it from up If you take it out from Buttom thats not necessary

The 3300cfm fan keeps the shed temp with the doors closed within about 12 degrees F from the ambient air temp. I am wondering if your shed has enough airflow so that the problem could be the gen is getting cooked? I first tried two 12" exhaust fans, and they couldn't keep the gen from cooking. Also, did you size up the exhaust immediately as it comes out of the gen to help prevent back pressure?

@@HowToDoStuf I’m still in the research phase! Just got blasted by Beryl so making my plans now. Within 12° of ambient air temp is amazing. I’ll definitely make sure to have a huge fan on whatever I end up going with. Down in Houston our air temps get crazy so I might also look into adding a swamp cooler to the mix to get the air cooler.

I see a lot of sheds with small exhaust fans and wonder how they don't cook their gens. Ive only tested my shed with doors closed up to an ambient outside temp of about 90f. At some point there would be no choice but to open the shed up and put a barrel fan on it. A swamp cooler of some kind might be a have to in high outside heat conditions to be able to run it in a shed. In TN we normally only see bad storms in the spring or winter when it's not that hot out.

Thank you. I really am amazed at how well the smokeless features work. I haven't seen anyone else on TH-cam incorporate both a double wall and center air intake, which is a shame because it works fantastic. Of course it doesn't get rid of all smoke, and you still need seasoned wood, but the end result is a huge reduction in smoke and a really nice, hot bed of coals.

Thanks! 👍

Thank you very much!

I just used this same basic method on my daughter's Honda FIT and it works so much better than doing multiple drains and refills, plus replacing the paper fine trans filter in the Altima only makes sense.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. The exhaust fan was running as it is on a thermostat.

@@HowToDoStuf oh ok sorry

Home Depot here carries the Rockwool Safe and Sound

@@HowToDoStuf thanks

👍

I appreciate that. I got a lot of ideas from others on TH-cam and just want to give some back that will hopefully help give other people ideas they can use. Putting the electrical and natural gas connections in the shed are without a doubt the best updates I've done. They make it so handy that I can just leave the gen connected. th-cam.com/video/TIKqynd_0OE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ohYRHB75FycYG_3u

Thank you very much. The electrical connection of course is grounded through the house ground as the neutral and ground are not bonded at the gen per NEC. My generator also has a grounding bolt on the front and recommends grounding there also. Although I don't think it is strictly necessary, you can never ground too much. In the event of a lightning strike nearby it just gives another path much closer to the gen for energy to dissipate. Not to mention for the $25 in wire and rod, why not?

Thank you!

Combustibility isn't an issue given that wood combusts at around 540-570 degrees f. Cement board is going to deflect sound not absorb it, plus cement board has very little flexibility if any.

That is incorrect. You can have as many ground rods as you want as long as the neutral and ground are not bonded past the main panel. You can never ground too much. You say it's against code but I am unaware of anything in NEC that says that.

You have got to be kidding me. It isn't hard at all for anyone with some mechanical sense, some decent sockets, and a floor jack. That is a t-total rip off. For that kind of money I should be doing that kind of work.

Thank you. I try to make things as confusing and difficult as possible. 😊

👍. We really enjoy it and the lack of smoke is wonderful

Thank you. I couldn't find a single clear video on this for my Altima when I went to do mine. I'd say it took me maybe 1 1/2 hrs all in including getting the car up, wheel cowl unclipped and pulled back, etc. It's not really a hard job. Make sure you have extra clips on hand because guaranteed some of those buggers will break.

Thank you! Have some extra clips I bought a whole back.

Thank you. I didn't see a torque spec form them so yes I just tightened them down snug.