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Thank you for your kind words and appreciate the feedback. Please consider subscribing for more videos on this powerplant to come soon.

I think I know what you are talking about and where on the video. Allow some time please and I’ll get back to you this evening. I’m currently at work.

On the rear bank of cylinders for piston 1,3, and 5, while the cam pulley is aligned with the mark on the rear timing belt cover, on one of the three cylinders the cam lobe is pressing on ether the intake or exhaust valve. But because the cam lobe is pressing on a valve it also means the piston is not close to the valve. I first freaked out because no one had mentioned that on the rear bank of cylinders one of the cam lobes was pressing on a valve. However, there was no risk of damage to the valves because some tolerance exists in case of such slipping of the cam off the valve. Does that make any sense? It’s ok if the cam slips off the lobe, just make sure the cam did not rotate much and re-align the marks of the cam pulley with mark on the back cover. You should be able to rotate the cam pulley by hand to re-align the marks. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching and please consider subscribing. Have a good day

@@aptechknowledge sorry for being a newbie but you initially got worried that there would be a piston to valve contact if it slips? Was that it or were you afraid that the you might drop a valve if it move? One of the videos I saw adviced that when you remove the cams that you go 60 degree back from TDC I guess to avoid that P2V risk which I think you mentioned in your video. Thanks for taking the time responding to my comment. Much appreciated

My initial worry was the piston to valve contact when the cam rotated

Think about it though; if the cam comes off the load on the valves that means the valves are closing right? That would actually reduce the possibility of a P2V issue because the valves are closed. Just be careful when you do the job that when you're done and ready to put the new belt back on, that all the marks align. You got this!

It’s quite alright my friend. It wasn’t too bad; just had to take my time and pay attention to detail. Turned out really good though; super happy with it. You have a fantastic 4th of July and a great weekend.

@@aptechknowledge thank you for showing us the work you do! I will definitely subscribe and watch for other projects you have! Happy 4th of July to you as well my friend, enjoy!

You’re welcome; my pleasure. Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already. Thank you.

I have definitely subscribed 😊. I took the actuator off and the arm was cracked like yours. I have a new actuator arm on order for $35 and will likely be picked tomorrow. Thanks again!

@@davidneumann6231 perfect!

My friend, it seams self evident that the cause of the fan breaking was due to the belt. However, you do need to look into what caused that belt to break in the first place, such as a seized pulley or an old belt or both. That being said, an OEM fan is not cheap, but I don’t recommend anything else because aftermarket fans don’t seem to work as well; sorry.

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I've been looking into this issue for some time now on my own car. It could very well not be the fan! under load, because of the belt, you may have blown the fuse that is connected to the positive battery terminal. It's the one with the plastic knob. I'm going to address this issue on my own car and report back.

I fixed my overheating issue at no cost. Perhaps your fuse popped. I made a video about it. Check it out! Perhaps it will help you before you buy a new expensive fan

Please forgive me, for English is my second language. Would you be so kind to explain again what you wrote? I don’t understand

@aptechknowledge I poorly wrote that, my apologies. Yesterday I accepted a job with Duncan as an airframe tech helper, after 90 days I will move to apprentice. I will have to rewat h this video to see all the tools you have in your toolbox. They gave me the recommended tool list, however, many times guys doing the work will give recommendations.

Welcome my friend, welcome to the family.

Around $2100 for that box without the stainless top in the Lincoln area.

Yes I know. It’s not that bad. It’s not a hard task, but it can be a little difficult to reach the back bolts that hold the plenum. These plugs were done on a Solara too; a 2007

Thank you. I do it with pleasure.

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You’re welcome! My pleasure. Please, consider subscribing; it would be of great help to continue making videos

@@aptechknowledge Done 👍

Much appreciated

Thank you. It’s been working so far.

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Thank you. Was planning on doing a valve adjustment job shortly and make a video about it. Just as well take care of what you mentioned

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I love it. Good info

You’re welcome. Pleased to be of help.

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I do not know to be honest. Reason why I fixed it. I was told you can have it made with a 3D printer; I don’t know how robust it will be though. Hope this helps.

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The W163 driveline should essentially be the same across the platform with the power-plant being the differing item and other accessories on the car. Get under there and look my friend 😃

@@aptechknowledge I found the info online I needed, in order to change the gear oil in the rear axle diff, and the ATF in the AWD transfer case. I didn’t use OEM Mercedes ATF or gear oil, but there’s lots of alternatives out there. I used Tribodyn ceramic “infused” full synthetic GL-5 75w-90 gear oil for the front and rear diffs, and stuck to Valvoline Import full synthetic ATF, for the trans and transfer case. I believe the owner’s manual states to use OEM Mercedes GL-5 85w-90 gear oil for the diffs, and Mercedes 236.14 for the trans and transfer case. In this case, I think really any conventional GL-5 (dino) 80w-90 or 75w-90 would work. Since 75w-90 comes more readily available in semi-synthetic or fully synth, those are probably better choices IMO. And as far as the ATF spec goes, anything around ATF 134 should be the equivalent; which is supposedly fully synthetic. I’ve seen people using ATF substitutes like ATF+4, Mercon V/LV, and Dexron III/VI. I believe ATF+4, Mercon V, and Dexron III are much closer to the viscosity of ATF 134, but since the LV fluids are also backwards compatible, I don’t see an issue. 236.14 MB spec ATF should also be for their 5, 7, and even 9-spd auto’s; so any Euro ATF formulated for such, would be fine I suppose. However, I’d stick to the more universal spec stuff and not specific Euro ATF’s, such as one for something like ZF 8 and 9-spd AT’s.

@@isnowyazn you do as you see fit. As for me, being a technician and working on executive jets, I’ve grown accustomed to using manufacturer specified products or alternatives also manufacture recommended. It’s a release of liability for me and a peace of mind knowing I’ve done the best I can according to specifications.

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There are two switches that turn the fan on: a hot temperature switch in the cooling system of the engine, and a pressure switch in your air conditioning system. Both of those turn the fan on. It’s a harder one to reach. There are other video on the net to see where it is.

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If unfortunately by shield you mean the metal shroud under the oil filter, than no, you don’t need to remove it. But if you want to do a nice and clean job I do recommend removing the lower right fairing that attaches to the bumper. Otherwise you’ll get it dirty of oil. It’s 10mm screws and some clip ins

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@@aptechknowledge yeah I also appreciate people like you that make these educational videos, it has helped me a lot in life because I had little to no guidance growing up. God bless you!

Thank you peace of the Lord be with you too

Thank you sir. I’ll make another one soon where it includes a foldable shovel and toilet paper

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Thank you! Mighty kind

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Thank you Sir

You’re welcome

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Did you use OEM? I had the same problem and had to upgrade to better quality

@@aptechknowledge No, It Was A After Market One..😬

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I don’t recall the part number of the transmission mount I replaced. I’m assuming that’s what you’re talking about. But if you go to partsgeek.com and put in make, model, and year, and what you’re looking for, the part will come up. That’s what I did, and that’s how I got it.

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Hahahahahaha

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True, I agree. The gear I believe should be made according to where you’re going and the time of year don’t you agree?

@@aptechknowledge quicksand is my childhood trauma :P

Also works for when you have to take a guerilla/recon poop. Don't forget some tissues or similar.

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Interesting!

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I agree but these are also cores that the auto part store wants returned, reason why I didn’t take it apart

Hahahaha. I probably meant to say idle screw. But thank you for that

Thanks

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Thank you sir

The employer provided it. They want the toolbox shadowed so they provide the foam and the time to do it.

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Hi there. There are advantages to working for a large company that has lots of specialty tools one can check out or the tool room. For example I don’t have to buy nearly as many tools. Thanks for watching

Exactly! It’s the way the company I work for has us inventory tools at the end of every job and every day. If a tool is missing, the airplane is not leaving until the tool is found.

I understand, but it’s a requirement where I work. The airplane won’t leave if I’m missing a tool.

That's very standard in the aviation world. I have a regular toolbox, and a "go" box- and every tool in both is shadowed

Specially if your Flight department wants ISBAO level 3 certification. Im just surprised you are allowed to rolll a toolbox under the wing.

@@GruntHarley I just accepted a job with this same company and there's size requirements for boxes...roughly. I know it one set of documents for the tool list for Airframe you have to be able to see over the box when moving it around. Now if I'm 6'5" thats a lot different than 5'10". Most guys I saw only had the bottom so no hutches etc. I know a team lead and one weekend he walked me around and I didn't see any really under the plane but up near it.

That reminds me, we also have machine shops and in house teams of engineers with 3D printers and the likes. We have fabricating capabilities. We work on cutting edge technologies, reason why we’re compartmentalized and specialized. I work in the airframe department. Hope this satisfies your curiosity.

Nice

One thing to understand - a lot of things can be measured quickly with stuff such as a pair of calipers - such as "acceptable size is 1.125 inch to 1.130" But what a lot do not get- all precision tools in aviation have to regularly be checked for calibration- so really precise tools are usually not the mechanics responsibility

Simple really. I work for a large corporation and their facilities has tool rooms where we check out all sorts of specialty tools. So all I need to have is basic stuff. Also the company has different department such as: electrical/ avionics; structure/composite; paint; upholstery/interior; airframe; batteries/ tires; landing gear, and each department has specialty tools of their own. Therefore if I need a special tool I check it out from the tool room, or if I need a special job done I call the specialist in that category. Hope this helps

Sounds like cool gig...I had to buy everything and tools don't resell well once retire

Most general auto mechanics are not paid anywhere near close enough to how much work they do and the wear on their body. I strongly recommend specializing in something. The highest paid mechanics barely have any tools. It’s all about knowledge.

@@markm0000 true story

I make 75k a year to b honest..it's not alot

I've been having a problem with my rear face vents not blowing but my rear feet vents are

@@clickclick3892 I’m actually not sure. Correct me if I’m wrong but yours is a w164? It seems to me you’re getting air in the back but its not splitting between the upper and lower rear vents. It can very well be a motor located in the rear but you’ll have to do more research on the matter

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