What I found after finally figuring out what my problem was, was caused by I believe an engineering flaw. If this machine is installed without raising (making legs longer and machine farther from floor) after being used with a heavy load the first signs will be that the pulley will rub the guard. Then over time, the pulley will actually rub the floor it is sitting on. This lead to the gear box failure and replacement.
Trying to split my gearcase in two so I can simply inspect the components inside. Looks like instead of the traditional 5/16 bolts that hold the gearcase together, these newer style transmissions are spot welded. Can you verify that one would have to drill out the spot welds to split the gear case in two?
There several south of the border videos (Mexico?) where the transmissions are taken apart. The rivets are drilled out and replaced with 1/4" bolts. A closeup shot revealed the Whirlpool p/n of the bearings and another angle showed that the case uses common 206 bearings. I googled the Whirlpool # and kept getting directed to Mexican supply houses. Apparantly, it appears Whirlpool only sells sub assembly parts in countries where labor is cheap. The reduction gears , located between the tin gearcase halves, is two halves that are sealed with silicone. Internal to the gearcase is a set of plastic gears lubricated in a tiny bit of oil. Top and bottom seals to that gearcase may be avail at a bearing house. The gearcase to outer tub seal is not shown to be sold separately, but there is an Appliance Pros video that shows the p/n. Failure of the tub seal allows water to enter the top bearing which will cause a rumble or howl upon entering the spin cycle. Further leakage will cause entrance of water into the shifter and the tiny pc board inside that will be ruined. Agitate or spin will be lost as well as the rpm signal. When the shift position cannot be determined, some machines will fill with water and then just sit there for a timed period, then drain the water out. It seems the fill and drain programming assumes the washer is washing and agitating for the duration of its cycle when in fact it just sits there. 10 years ago, I scrapped over 50 of these machines from a housing project. Every one had bad bearings and water damaged shifters.
@@spicky2966 Pry them out and take the housings to a industrial hydraulic or bearing supply. They might be able to match something up. Oddly, metric sizes are widely avail in the U.S. Stop by at a forklift dealer and ask them where the bearing stores are
Watched your whole video. It was informative. But I'm wondering if you can help me with a problem I'm having with the removal of this gearcase from the washer. I have the same one. But I'm having a problem getting it out. I had to purchase a special TB123A spanner wrench. It successfully removed the nut, but I still cant pull the gearcase out. It seems to be stuck. I noticed under the nut, there is another silver part bolted onto the drum by 6 long screws. I unscrewed all the screws but it is still stuck on there. P/N W10291415. Does this piece pry off? Does it come off at all? I cant get the gearcase off. Any help is appreciated.
Our washers must not be exactly the same, because I didn't need to use that special spanner. My agitator was held on by a simple bolt (11mm?). Once I removed that bolt, I was able to pull the inner tub out, pretty easily, by lifting up on the tub. Once the tub is removed, you can get under the washer. You strip off various components that are installed on the transmission, remove 4 bolts holding the transmission to the underneath side of the outer tub and then remove the transmission. I did do a quick search and there is a Whirlpool washer where you do have that "silver part bolted to the drum with 6 screws" as you mentioned. Please see the below video to see if this is what you have. th-cam.com/video/OHyatj6letU/w-d-xo.html This video shows that there is another special tool which can be used to remove the tub. If you search a little more, there was another video which showed removal using common tools. Hope this helps. I'm not a professional technician and I don't have any more information. Good luck.
Thanks for the informative response. I watched the video you included. My problem was the silver hub piece was so badly corroded on the transmission shaft, I had to hammer it out using the same method as the video you mentioned "using common tools". It was an extreme pain but finally got it out and installed my new gearcase. Just when I thought I completed my mission, it's now making all kinds of new sounds. Very frustrating.
@@jeromedavis8575 Hi Jerome, the model number is WTW4950XW3. I purchased the washer in 2013. I changed the gear case in February 2015 and the shift actuator in June 2015. Other than that, I have had no problems. I almost trashed the thing when the gear case went bad. I'm glad I didn't.
Oil? That transmission doesn't have any oil. Most likely what happened is the seal # W10324647 was deteriorating and slinging brownish liquid .Were you having a noisy spin action? If not, you would have quite soon. you'll notice it's spot welded. Basically a piece of junk.Anyway, The complaint I get is exactly what you claim was "OIL" on the floor followed by also being noisy when spinning. I generally drill out all those welds, separate the case and install a new bearing and replace the tub seal. Total parts $18.00. I've never heard of Whirlpool not allowing a transmission on an 18 month old washer. Catch is, they want to install it at their ridiculous labor rate. And who show up? Sears in an A& E van. You can't win. So, you're back to square one.Always remember, It's the noisy hinge that gets the oil. You took the time to order the $160.00 part, waited for it, installed it.. etc.. All you had to do was write a letter, return receipt to Benton Harbor Michigan H.Q. P.S. Did you calibrate the machine after installing that trans? It will work if you didn't, just not as per the exact program of the control board.
+Sean Moran Sean, thanks for your reply. It was oil. It looked like oil, smelled like oil and felt like oil between my fingers. However, I decided to find out for sure, so today I disassembled the old transmission (I did save it, just in case). The case isn't spot welded, its riveted. I drilled out the rivets, removed the circle clip, from the bottom shaft and pulled the bottom off the unit. Inside there is a plastic case that contains the gears. There are about 8 screws which seals the top of the case. I removed the screws and pulled the case apart. The planetary gears sit in oil. About 1/2 of the oil was gone. It did confirm that the leak was from the bottom seal. The oil couldn't have leaked anywhere else. I would bet the seal is about a $2.00 part. I've got pictures in case you would like to see them. I did contact Whirlpool, when I initially found the problem and left a message. A lady responded who said she was from the warranty department. After listening to my story, she said, "no, it is out of warranty, we will not be able to do anything". I still have the receipt. Might be too late now, but I can send it in, if I can find their address. I did re-calibrate the control. Pretty easy to do. You are right, it is a piece of junk. A few months after replacing the transmission, the shift actuator went south. I understand it's a common problem. I replaced it; fairly easy and not too costly, although it would probably have been a $200 repair if I had a repair company come in. The washer has been working fine for the last several months. Things do break, but for Whirlpool not to help in anyway is disappointing.
+Lou Linn OHHH O.K. That's most unusual for that small planetary gear housing to leak. I've never seen that and I've been servicing this unit since it's introduction to the market.Perhaps spot welded is the wrong term, but it's certainly not rivets. It's some sort of plasma pinch method.Like you, I drilled them out to access the bearing and I resealed the case with nuts lock washers and bolts.The bearing part you can look up, it's # 6006 rs.I've done quite a few of these and the problem is always the seal leaking which wipes out the bearing.Sorry to hear the actuator went out on you too. That's also common. Cheap enough but it's insult to injury after what you've been through. Another common problem is the nut on the splotch gets loose and you have to apply locktite brand thread sealant. It's a shame how terrible whirlpool has become. I guess their moto is VIVA MEXICO!! Good luck to you!
Thank you Lou Linn for the taking the time to make this video. And Thank you Sean Moran for the comments. I am working on a Kenmore that is identical to your machine. It was bought almost 2 years ago. We have an extremely loud spin cycle- sounds like a plane is taking off. We don't have any leaking oil or water. I am afraid to buy the transmission as I have already sunk enough money into the machine and my parents just don't have the cash for a new washer. I am thinking of taking Sean's recommendation and replacing the bearings in the transmission/gearbox. After you got it apart did you think it is worth doing? Was there a seal or anything I am going to have to replace? I appreciate everything. If it makes you feel better- we have replaced the actuator and lid lock already. This is a very frustrating machine.
The trans does have oil in the plastic housing where the plastic planetary gears are. That said most likely the oil he's seeing is the grease having been washed out of the bearings by a leaking outer tub seal. Very common problem on these lousy machines
What I found after finally figuring out what my problem was, was caused by I believe an engineering flaw. If this machine is installed without raising (making legs longer and machine farther from floor) after being used with a heavy load the first signs will be that the pulley will rub the guard. Then over time, the pulley will actually rub the floor it is sitting on. This lead to the gear box failure and replacement.
Thank you for Posting .. I am about to change the gear box out in my Maytag Centennial. This was great information !
Thank you, Burt. Good luck with your repair.
Thanks for the close up look at the transmission!
Trying to split my gearcase in two so I can simply inspect the components inside. Looks like instead of the traditional 5/16 bolts that hold the gearcase together, these newer style transmissions are spot welded. Can you verify that one would have to drill out the spot welds to split the gear case in two?
@aaron can you tell where to buy parts to rebuild transmission
There several south of the border videos (Mexico?) where the transmissions are taken apart. The rivets are drilled out and replaced with 1/4" bolts. A closeup shot revealed the Whirlpool p/n of the bearings and another angle showed that the case uses common 206 bearings. I googled the Whirlpool # and kept getting directed to Mexican supply houses. Apparantly, it appears Whirlpool only sells sub assembly parts in countries where labor is cheap. The reduction gears , located between the tin gearcase halves, is two halves that are sealed with silicone. Internal to the gearcase is a set of plastic gears lubricated in a tiny bit of oil. Top and bottom seals to that gearcase may be avail at a bearing house. The gearcase to outer tub seal is not shown to be sold separately, but there is an Appliance Pros video that shows the p/n. Failure of the tub seal allows water to enter the top bearing which will cause a rumble or howl upon entering the spin cycle. Further leakage will cause entrance of water into the shifter and the tiny pc board inside that will be ruined. Agitate or spin will be lost as well as the rpm signal. When the shift position cannot be determined, some machines will fill with water and then just sit there for a timed period, then drain the water out. It seems the fill and drain programming assumes the washer is washing and agitating for the duration of its cycle when in fact it just sits there. 10 years ago, I scrapped over 50 of these machines from a housing project. Every one had bad bearings and water damaged shifters.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 Top and bottom seals to that gearcase may be avail at a bearing house - any ideas wherre i can get i them..
@@spicky2966 Pry them out and take the housings to a industrial hydraulic or bearing supply. They might be able to match something up. Oddly, metric sizes are widely avail in the U.S. Stop by at a forklift dealer and ask them where the bearing stores are
You should buy a Speed Queen washer.
Western Massachusetts Elevators no people keep replacing my favorite washer for shit queen
Hi
Watched your whole video. It was informative. But I'm wondering if you can help me with a problem I'm having with the removal of this gearcase from the washer. I have the same one. But I'm having a problem getting it out. I had to purchase a special TB123A spanner wrench. It successfully removed the nut, but I still cant pull the gearcase out. It seems to be stuck. I noticed under the nut, there is another silver part bolted onto the drum by 6 long screws. I unscrewed all the screws but it is still stuck on there. P/N W10291415. Does this piece pry off? Does it come off at all? I cant get the gearcase off. Any help is appreciated.
Our washers must not be exactly the same, because I didn't need to use that special spanner. My agitator was held on by a simple bolt (11mm?). Once I removed that bolt, I was able to pull the inner tub out, pretty easily, by lifting up on the tub. Once the tub is removed, you can get under the washer. You strip off various components that are installed on the transmission, remove 4 bolts holding the transmission to the underneath side of the outer tub and then remove the transmission. I did do a quick search and there is a Whirlpool washer where you do have that "silver part bolted to the drum with 6 screws" as you mentioned. Please see the below video to see if this is what you have. th-cam.com/video/OHyatj6letU/w-d-xo.html This video shows that there is another special tool which can be used to remove the tub. If you search a little more, there was another video which showed removal using common tools. Hope this helps. I'm not a professional technician and I don't have any more information. Good luck.
Thanks for the informative response. I watched the video you included. My problem was the silver hub piece was so badly corroded on the transmission shaft, I had to hammer it out using the same method as the video you mentioned "using common tools". It was an extreme pain but finally got it out and installed my new gearcase. Just when I thought I completed my mission, it's now making all kinds of new sounds. Very frustrating.
@@lhlinn7351 What is the model# of this washer?
@@jeromedavis8575 Hi Jerome, the model number is WTW4950XW3. I purchased the washer in 2013. I changed the gear case in February 2015 and the shift actuator in June 2015. Other than that, I have had no problems. I almost trashed the thing when the gear case went bad. I'm glad I didn't.
Oil? That transmission doesn't have any oil. Most likely what happened is the seal # W10324647 was deteriorating and slinging brownish liquid .Were you having a noisy spin action? If not, you would have quite soon. you'll notice it's spot welded. Basically a piece of junk.Anyway, The complaint I get is exactly what you claim was "OIL" on the floor followed by also being noisy when spinning. I generally drill out all those welds, separate the case and install a new bearing and replace the tub seal. Total parts $18.00. I've never heard of Whirlpool not allowing a transmission on an 18 month old washer. Catch is, they want to install it at their ridiculous labor rate. And who show up? Sears in an A& E van. You can't win. So, you're back to square one.Always remember, It's the noisy hinge that gets the oil. You took the time to order the $160.00 part, waited for it, installed it.. etc.. All you had to do was write a letter, return receipt to Benton Harbor Michigan H.Q. P.S. Did you calibrate the machine after installing that trans? It will work if you didn't, just not as per the exact program of the control board.
+Sean Moran Sean, thanks for your reply. It was oil. It looked like oil, smelled like oil and felt like oil between my fingers. However, I decided to find out for sure, so today I disassembled the old transmission (I did save it, just in case). The case isn't spot welded, its riveted. I drilled out the rivets, removed the circle clip, from the bottom shaft and pulled the bottom off the unit. Inside there is a plastic case that contains the gears. There are about 8 screws which seals the top of the case. I removed the screws and pulled the case apart. The planetary gears sit in oil. About 1/2 of the oil was gone. It did confirm that the leak was from the bottom seal. The oil couldn't have leaked anywhere else. I would bet the seal is about a $2.00 part. I've got pictures in case you would like to see them. I did contact Whirlpool, when I initially found the problem and left a message. A lady responded who said she was from the warranty department. After listening to my story, she said, "no, it is out of warranty, we will not be able to do anything". I still have the receipt. Might be too late now, but I can send it in, if I can find their address. I did re-calibrate the control. Pretty easy to do. You are right, it is a piece of junk. A few months after replacing the transmission, the shift actuator went south. I understand it's a common problem. I replaced it; fairly easy and not too costly, although it would probably have been a $200 repair if I had a repair company come in. The washer has been working fine for the last several months. Things do break, but for Whirlpool not to help in anyway is disappointing.
+Lou Linn OHHH O.K. That's most unusual for that small planetary gear housing to leak. I've never seen that and I've been servicing this unit since it's introduction to the market.Perhaps spot welded is the wrong term, but it's certainly not rivets. It's some sort of plasma pinch method.Like you, I drilled them out to access the bearing and I resealed the case with nuts lock washers and bolts.The bearing part you can look up, it's # 6006 rs.I've done quite a few of these and the problem is always the seal leaking which wipes out the bearing.Sorry to hear the actuator went out on you too. That's also common. Cheap enough but it's insult to injury after what you've been through. Another common problem is the nut on the splotch gets loose and you have to apply locktite brand thread sealant. It's a shame how terrible whirlpool has become. I guess their moto is VIVA MEXICO!! Good luck to you!
Thank you Lou Linn for the taking the time to make this video. And Thank you Sean Moran for the comments. I am working on a Kenmore that is identical to your machine. It was bought almost 2 years ago. We have an extremely loud spin cycle- sounds like a plane is taking off. We don't have any leaking oil or water. I am afraid to buy the transmission as I have already sunk enough money into the machine and my parents just don't have the cash for a new washer. I am thinking of taking Sean's recommendation and replacing the bearings in the transmission/gearbox. After you got it apart did you think it is worth doing? Was there a seal or anything I am going to have to replace? I appreciate everything. If it makes you feel better- we have replaced the actuator and lid lock already. This is a very frustrating machine.
The trans does have oil in the plastic housing where the plastic planetary gears are. That said most likely the oil he's seeing is the grease having been washed out of the bearings by a leaking outer tub seal. Very common problem on these lousy machines
Grease is from the bearings. th-cam.com/video/smd3UH1k7Ow/w-d-xo.html