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3:39 and on....

Very dangerously!! That piece of wood is going from jack to bracket for a/c compressor.....

@@RandomTrades Live dangerous thanks ! 😆

Maybe....but what's the purpose of them? (If that is what they are)

@@RandomTrades they limit the dirt from getting in

Correct!

Good eye! Garage sale find for a dollar!!

Edit: Okay, maybe not. But I did notice that you did not repack that bearing with grease when you put those two new seals in place. The transmission oil probably does not lubricate that big main bearing for the tine shaft, so you could be putting wear and tear on said bearing, especially if you ever need to till any new ground. I love these Honda tillers. They're monsters that make the ground ready for planting, whether it's for a garden, flowers, trees, sod, whatever. They normally handle new ground very well, but multiple passes will make almost any kind of soil nice and fluffy. After a bit of raking, you can dig your plant holes almost with your bare hands! Every couple years, they are great for turning over the soil and thoroughly mixing in any compost matter with whatever soil you happen to have in that space. Do bear in mind that if you use them too frequently, you will chase away all the beneficial earthworms. If you're tilling to sod or plant a tree, you might not care because you're only tilling once and you're done. But for a garden that gets replanted every year, you don't want all the earthworms to move to the next zip code.

Excellent observations! I also was puzzled with grease packed on the back of the oil seal. As I was told by the dealer, where I got the oil seals, they explained that the case would have to be separated to remove the bearing. And that once the unit is upright, that bearing is all but submerged in the oil. They explained that to the best of their knowledge, someone had to have tried to fill the oil case with grease at one point. So far, so good, and the unit runs awesome with no leaks 2 years later. I did not know about earthworms leaving from over tilling though. Will grubs do the same?

Thanks! Seemed fitting. 😉

Engine moves alot, metal on metal noise "clanging", tearing or cracking also sagging.

@@RandomTrades ok thanks bro

That is correct.

@@RandomTrades I also made a note of that above. I think grease is critical in that bearing, because transmission oil probably only lubes the gearset and I'll bet the oil never makes it down to that bearing..or is blocked from it. If you have the shop manual for that model, it will probably tell you or show you.

​@@justaskin8523model F310

Thank you! Getting excited to try new idea's.

30 weight. Hope that helps.

@@RandomTrades And one more question where I can order the damaged part

Sorry for the late response, I had to call my local lawn care repair company

Glad you enjoyed it

Sounds like a great project! This is super slow....but, Forward progress!!

But now preserved for the life of resin!

I bet! With that apron in the way, has to make it way worse. Glad I could help.

🐌 slow to be honest. Did some disassembly and that video is coming as soon as I finish editing it. But I'm trying to make "forward progress " on it. 😂 more videos on it coming soon.

You are correct!! I have many parts of this car that are 1972 and like I state, the VIN is 1971. I don't know how this car got the "Pierre Cardin" seats, but you spot on. Only seats( front and back) not headliner or badges.

Thanks!! Its going to be a long road but fun along the way. Glad to see I'm not alone in this "crazy venture" I got myself in. 😉

Ya I ran into the same issue, ended up finding out if it was an older style, 30 weight was used, and newer was your typical small engine old. I put 30 weight in and it works great!!

0.95 litre for transmission oil , engine 0.6 litre model Honda F310 or F360

Thanks! Alot of work and "time". We will all see how this goes.😉

We are currently undergoing a few health issues, once things are on the upward trend, then we will get back to regular schedule and video uploads. Sorry for the inconvenience and patience. We truly appreciate your support!

@@RandomTrades hope your health, and other trails will be on the upward swing soon ,I love the AMC javelin

I used "permatex ultra grey" gasket maker. And no I ended up putting a thin film under whole gasket as well, but you don't have to.

@@RandomTrades I went ahead and used ultra black oil resistant. Hoping everything works out and doesn't leak. Pain in the ass.

Also, I went ahead and used it all around the bottom side of the block

Thats fine, just keep it a "thin layer" and let it dry for 24 hours if it is thick, just don't want it sqeezing too much in the pan itself to be picked up by oil pickup tube.

Yes absolute pain!!! But worth it to do it yourself.

Awesome! At this point I don't, but haven't torn down completely yet so I might if its brittle and breaks. Thanks!

I'm interested....how can i contact you

@@jeffb8710 look for ” amc javelin repop parts” on facebook

love your channel!

Thats very inspiring! Thank you!

Thanks for watching!

@@RandomTrades pleasure!

Thank you!!

Thank you sooo much I might take that idea!!!

Where's all the "Paper pushers" at... 😂 nice

Thanks! Good idea!

Thanks! I purchased all parts from rockauto.com and the 2x4's were placed on the block itself once the oil pan was loose and pushed to the side.

@@RandomTrades Thanks so much for the reply! Did You put silicone only in the corners of the gasket or around the hole block? I am getting ready to do the same thing to my truck next week. Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it!👍

No problem! Glad to help. So yes, once I put a solid beed of "RTV" or gasket maker on the pan, then spread it around the holes with my finger nice and even. As far as block goes,, just the 4 corners will suffice but won't hurt i thin layer on all of it. Just by careful not to put too much as the excess could squeeze out in the pan and possibly get sucked up by the oil pickup tube.. Best of luck and no more oil leaks/rusted old pan.👍

​@@DirectCurrent4u go all the way around...I only did the 4 points like your supposed to and now I have to pull it apart n do it again cuz it's leaking across the from somewhere. Just do it all while you have it out so you don't have to do it twice like me!

@@MyBigThing2010 Thanks for the update!

Haha ...very very slow. Planing more videos about it coming soon. Yours looks great!!

@@RandomTrades thanks! My car is done now, took me only 12 years 😂😂😂 mine was rustfree , only quarter panels needed repair, but yours look very nice exterior compared to what mine did

Thats inspiring! One day it will be amazing ! And driveable...😂🤣

Are you member of the ”AMC JAVELIN & AMX” group on Facebook?

No, but I will be now!! Thanks!!

Thank you very much!!

Good question, I only removed oil pan bolts to be able to push motor up, then loosen motor mounts. So simple answer, no.

Thanks!! Was very fun and challenging. We will have to do another.....might be a while...🤣😂

And how did you take off the top bolt of the mount

Yes, I used a 4x4 standing on end of jack, on the corner of the block. Might I recommend supporting the engine with a chain to prevent it from falling.

Once the engine is up i was able to fit a impact gun in the front with a wrench on back and it came right out.

Random Trades but the top bolt ? Cz I have a pole lift at home yet I don’t have a second beam supports to put in the back so doing it on the ground instead , so you can fit once it is lifted for the top bolt

Yes, you can fit either a wrench and go quarter turn at a time or you can fit a ratchet and socket and get it in there. It dies fit and you can lift on the engine block if the oil pan is off. Otherwise you'll have to lift from top if oil pan in still on.

Noted!

If you would like these or custom ones, im taking orders. $5 each $7 with magnets. Just so your aware. 👍

Thank you!!

Always! Got running boards coming and video with that. Plus more resin, wood working and small engine repair.