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Vincent Pham
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2014
Zellweger 8a/5.13b - Kalymnos Griffig Wall climbing
"you should get on zellweger, it's listed as 13b but it feels like 12c," is what i was told by my buddy alex the night before checking it out.
i got on it and got stuck at the final crux, frustrated.
alex later came and showed me his awesome beta, a counter intuitive switching of hands: at the final crux cave, left hand on the clipping jug, then the right hand actually chooses a worser hold - slotting into a 2 finger pocket (he adds a thumb catch but that makes the downpull worse for me so i skip it), then the left hand takes the good hold.
this route is tons of fun. also met reno and hannah on this route and they were super cool to climb with.
Oct 13, 2024 · Lead / Pinkpoint.
2 days, 3 beta burns, 2 attempts.
First attempt fell getting LH into crux pocket. Came back day after, beta burn and pinkpoint
i got on it and got stuck at the final crux, frustrated.
alex later came and showed me his awesome beta, a counter intuitive switching of hands: at the final crux cave, left hand on the clipping jug, then the right hand actually chooses a worser hold - slotting into a 2 finger pocket (he adds a thumb catch but that makes the downpull worse for me so i skip it), then the left hand takes the good hold.
this route is tons of fun. also met reno and hannah on this route and they were super cool to climb with.
Oct 13, 2024 · Lead / Pinkpoint.
2 days, 3 beta burns, 2 attempts.
First attempt fell getting LH into crux pocket. Came back day after, beta burn and pinkpoint
มุมมอง: 711
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Vertigo 7c/5.12d - Kalymnos Summertime Magoulias Wall climbing
มุมมอง 433วันที่ผ่านมา
couple sustained moderate bouldery moves using friction and pinches that are quite fun, then more rests and techy climbing above. a solid nice route overall. pinkpoint 10/14/24 1 day, 1 beta burn then pinkpoint
Aegialis 5.12d - Kalymnos Grande Grotta climbing
มุมมอง 2414 วันที่ผ่านมา
when people ask me what is one of my favorite routes ever, this has got to be it. on my mountain project, i wrote: "Hands down the most epic route I’ve sent on a trip (or ever?), given the challenge, height, incredible movement, knee bars, quality, and view" was still discovering new knee bars on the final send attempt, thank goodness cuz i was so pumped out! use knee bar pads on both sides. pi...
Technicolor Lycra 5.12a - Gus Fruh Greenbelt climbing
มุมมอง 13114 วันที่ผ่านมา
pretty rad entry crux.. i remember figuring out the crux on TR (when it was TR only) and coming back a few months later to TR send it, but couldn't do the move anymore! i think the move is harder than any move on Tunnel Vision, and similar difficulty to the crux of Buda. i used shorty beta here, and really had to stretch out that right hip mobility before tying in. thanks MB/DC for the vision a...
South of Heaven 8a (5.13b) - Kalymnos Sikati Cave climbing
มุมมอง 2314 วันที่ผ่านมา
this route is so friggin epic and fun.. but so many routes in kalymnos are for a boy out of texas. this is a kalymnos 8a (obviously). i sent three 8a's on the 2024 trip, which is the highest grade i've sent ever, but hey, vacation grades feel nice too. a mega sport climb with two cruxes (and 2 smaller cruxes) separated by two full rests. tie a stopper knot if you're using a 70m rope. pinkpoint ...
Tunnel Vision Variation (5.12b?) - Greenbelt New Wall Austin climbing
มุมมอง 5914 วันที่ผ่านมา
for the New Wall bored-and-obsessive regular... ROUTE: this "fake" and quite fun route shares zero handholds with Tunnel Vision nor Looking Glass. so calling it a "variation" maybe isn't the right word.. but yup it's a squeeze job. to start, i use a high left heel/toe cam, and two very small crimps (not that easy). CRUXES: it's pretty sustained at the grade, but does have some rests just like T...
Body Wax 5.12b - Reimers Ranch Sex Cave climbing
มุมมอง 1272 หลายเดือนก่อน
didnt realize i forgot to upload this one from a while back. classic bouldery 12b. from mp: Jul 24, 2022 · Lead / Pinkpoint. A2 pinkpoint. I remember 1x attempt ~last year jessi b giving me beta too. So 3 days 4 attempts. Nov 9, 2019 · Lead / Fell/Hung. First try after sending rhetoric and lipo. Great route worth retrying. Hung 4ish times. Very powerful for me. Moves are possible but linking al...
Life Goes On, Man 5.12b - Reimers Ranch Dude Wall climbing
มุมมอง 5112 หลายเดือนก่อน
in the book this route is listed as "Project (5.hard)", and in MP it wasn't listed at all. reis sent it just before me, and we posted on Austin Climbing Group and discovered that cory jones already sent it. congrats cory! Mar 31, 2024 · Lead / Pinkpoint. 1 beta burn, 3 attempts, the first two attempts being close but needed some nuanced beta.
Red October 5.12c - Mt Charleston NV Sonar Wall climbing
มุมมอง 3582 หลายเดือนก่อน
1st beta burn felt really hard, like it’s 12d and maybe not possible in a day. I guess this is like the rifle style where once you really dial the beta then it’s the correct grade, which means basically it’s sandbagged hahaha. Ok fine not sandbagged but hard for the grade or “stiff”. But sure Kathy asked me if it was hard on the send and actually it felt fine on the send, I was not pumped out o...
Echo Locatino 5.12a - Mt Charleston NV Sonar Wall climbing
มุมมอง 2912 หลายเดือนก่อน
Don’t think I would onsight without ticks. Bit cryptic. Audiophile moves feel a lot friendlier Aug 31, 2024 · Lead / Pinkpoint. B2B beta burn then fell on attempt 1 super low crux Attempt 2 pinkpoint
Learning To Fly 5.12b - Reimers Ranch Sex Canyon climbing
มุมมอง 862 หลายเดือนก่อน
this crux is the entry to Hypersalivation 5.13b, so i worked it many times before trying the 12b route itself. i was hoping to cheat my way into a pseudo-"flash" of the route, since i already knew the entry crux, but on the flash attempt i couldn't even pull the entry move wah wahhh sent it second go. the second half is nice chill juggy climbing once you know where the jugs are. pinkpoint on 8/...
Buttered Side Up 5.12a - Reimers Ranch Dr. Seuss Wall climbing
มุมมอง 3582 หลายเดือนก่อน
this would be a tough onsight imo.. but if there were big tick marks a slight maybe for me, probably not. pretty chill climbing to start, but not mindless. huge rest then the business up top. pinkpoint on 8/27/24 last year i had a bum ankle so TR sent it on the 3rd go on 8/27/24 it took 4 attempts to send so i'll say 2 days, 5 attempts, kinda bad conditions on send day though
O.R.A.L (aka ORB) 5.12b - Reimers Ranch Sex Canyon climbing
มุมมอง 213 หลายเดือนก่อน
am i somebody that just likes any route i get on? but fine, i get it, i cant rate it 3 stars cuz it's not as good as bolus or learning to fly, but it's a pretty cool route. i rated it 2 stars and looks like on MP it's now 1.5 stars (which appears as 2 stars at a glance, so hopefully more ppl get on it). i can respect the 1 star "okay" rating as well. i thought for sure the holds above the "vagi...
No Recess 5.12c - Reimers Ranch Sex Canyon climbing
มุมมอง 333 หลายเดือนก่อน
thx sean d for the beta through the crux, the key part being make sure to get to that far right good side pull just above the roof. hank and i got on this last summer and were stumped, trying to go more direct/up. we'd seen that far right good side pull, but didnt feel working to get there would help. we were wrong. really dig the movement on this one: love the two drop/inturn knees. haven't se...
J.P. Court 5.12a - Reimers Ranch Landfill Wall climbing
มุมมอง 1904 หลายเดือนก่อน
spooky runout to the chains. hard to decipher the beta when going to the chains, cuz the holds are so slopey/crimpy and feel like "broken" rock but they're intact. would be a difficult onsight imo, esp with the heady runout. i put a quickdraw on the anchor to clip before making the final move, to avoid a huge scary whip (i think it'd be clean with a soft catch, but was too scared to take the wh...
Jump Start 5.12a - The Tunnel NM climbing
มุมมอง 3765 หลายเดือนก่อน
Jump Start 5.12a - The Tunnel NM climbing
Cloud 9 (downclimb) 5.11d - Greenbelt New Wall climbing
มุมมอง 1745 หลายเดือนก่อน
Cloud 9 (downclimb) 5.11d - Greenbelt New Wall climbing
Finkelstein 5.?? - Reimers Ranch Cheech and Chong Climbing
มุมมอง 486 หลายเดือนก่อน
Finkelstein 5.?? - Reimers Ranch Cheech and Chong Climbing
Family Jewels 5.12a/b - Shelf Road Vault climbing
มุมมอง 76 หลายเดือนก่อน
Family Jewels 5.12a/b - Shelf Road Vault climbing
Cholla My Valentine 5.12b - Shelf Road Contest Wall climbing
มุมมอง 206 หลายเดือนก่อน
Cholla My Valentine 5.12b - Shelf Road Contest Wall climbing
Heavy Weather 5.12a/b - Shelf Road Surreal Estate climbing
มุมมอง 296 หลายเดือนก่อน
Heavy Weather 5.12a/b - Shelf Road Surreal Estate climbing
Precious Stone 5.12b - Shelf Road Vault climbing
มุมมอง 136 หลายเดือนก่อน
Precious Stone 5.12b - Shelf Road Vault climbing
Griffology 5.12c - Kalymnos Griffig Wall climbing
มุมมอง 706 หลายเดือนก่อน
Griffology 5.12c - Kalymnos Griffig Wall climbing
Kanzeli 5.12c - Kalymnos Griffig Wall climbing
มุมมอง 536 หลายเดือนก่อน
Kanzeli 5.12c - Kalymnos Griffig Wall climbing
Latin Lover 5.12a - Smith Rock Dihedrals Wall climbing
มุมมอง 446 หลายเดือนก่อน
Latin Lover 5.12a - Smith Rock Dihedrals Wall climbing
Heinous Cling Start 5.12a - Smith Rock Dihedrals Wall climbing
มุมมอง 446 หลายเดือนก่อน
Heinous Cling Start 5.12a - Smith Rock Dihedrals Wall climbing
Take A Powder 5.12b - Smith Rock The Dihedrals climbing
มุมมอง 226 หลายเดือนก่อน
Take A Powder 5.12b - Smith Rock The Dihedrals climbing
Panic Attack 5.12a - Smith Rock Christian Brothers Wall climbing
มุมมอง 346 หลายเดือนก่อน
Panic Attack 5.12a - Smith Rock Christian Brothers Wall climbing
Dia de Los Muertos 5.12a - Clear Creek Canyon Graveyard climbing
มุมมอง 386 หลายเดือนก่อน
Dia de Los Muertos 5.12a - Clear Creek Canyon Graveyard climbing
Gremlin Hannah 5.13a - Kalymnos Griffig Wall climbing
มุมมอง 586 หลายเดือนก่อน
Gremlin Hannah 5.13a - Kalymnos Griffig Wall climbing
Nice job. Usually climbers are climbing without helmets but wearing it makes it promotion of safety which I support! Though, not clipping first 2 quick draws on a route is not nice. Maybe it was the hardest part to clip those while climbing... Hope you did it with clipping as well ;)
So cool
Clean.
This is illegal. How dare you be so strong. -thanh
don`t embarras yourself - don`t do the ondra
what a cutie that ondra :)
@@vincentpham976 you think so? i am team megos... nice climb though! congrats!
Did you build an anchor for the TR or sling the boulders at the top?
ah sorry dont remember which one we did.. either one sounds though
lol laser pointer? Really?
🤭 promo sm
Beast 💪🔥
Goat
Great looking moves. This makes me a bit sad that I didn't get to try this one.
Nice one! Yeah your beta looks much better than mine. I fired it in two sessions and just went mostly with Sean's beta. Two stars for me on a more objective (i.e. including places that aren't Reimers) scale cuz of that mud, but it's always good when the 2 star routes feel like 4 stars 😂
Nice work! Did you leave the draws that were on the anchors?
That route was a chossy, crumbly mess when I sent it. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a different grade every year lol
i remember thinking when i was on the wall "i wonder if jesse went straight up or to the right at bolt 4?". also, for the longest time i thought the entry was 12+ and something had broken off, but my final beta felt.. reasonable.. i guess... sometimes there's a move that feels so hard for so long but on the send it feels fine and so i sandbag my own thoughts from before haha
Cool beta in the roof!
THX GABE!
never apologize for a power scream. Nice send dude!
Awesome!!!!
Nice dude.. I’ve got the face dialed to pretty chill and managed to send through the crux from the bottom once but it’s such a low percentage move since I’ve gotta dyno that big left.. you still going to work the roof section or moved on for now?
sick, I was working that one last year for like a session or two haha. felt way out of my wheelhouse. maybe this year!;)
cool yea def come back and snatch it up! sooo crimpy
How is the hold at 0:45 if you can recall? I never remember finding anything good on that rail, but you did that move smooth.
unfortunately i can't remember that specific rail. if i can remember, i thought the "match" holds just after it was where i fell the year before when i got on it first, i was soo pumped out and they weren't that good. anyway thx for the comment and good luck on the route it's so gooood!
@@vincentpham976 it's all good, it was a long time ago. I'm going to try it again tomorrow. Your videos help. I always appreciate all your videos for beta on routes where I'm stuck. Keep them coming!
Hell yeah Vince!
Nice work! It looks like the real crux and 13 grade come strictly from the sheer length of the climb. It looks phenomenal. I am nowhere near that grade of climbing but watching this made me want to give it a good project!
That was a lot of fight. Inspiring!
Love your videos, but why do you say pink point? This is sport climbing, if that draws are hung or not, it doesn't take away from the red point. Pink point is really only considered a thing for trad climbing.
ngl that beta using the new jug at the lip looks a lot harder than just using the OG cross into undercling and stand up method lol
i think i just make it look harder cuz i screamed a bit. hank showed me the OG beta and he said a lot of the right heel/toe hook horn has broken off unfortunately---still doable, but he said it's much harder than before.
@@vincentpham976 sad. Elephant Man is perpetually breaking :(
Isn’t the right wall and block you rested on off? It says so in the guidebook. Nice job either way!
thanks! i remember telling my gf "i'm going to avoid this wall on the right because i doubt it's on", but did i use another wall i wasnt supposed to?
Your beta is always so crazy
Nice job, Vince!!!
What’s the no chalk bag beta about?
He wrote in his description, it was a part of optimizing every bit - weight savings.
yea it was probably more psychological than anything.. like wiping my climbing shoes before every attempt.. so i have zero possible excuses when i'm going for it. was considering ditching the helmet/shirt too for weight savings... and pants even why not lol!
That's the crazy lady who took my friend off belay in the middle of a climb in Horseshoe Canyon! Glad you didn't get dropped!
Thanks for the shoutout Vince! I steal beta from your videos as well!
Lol Vince wtf is that crux beta? I sure hope nobody that maxes out at 12c sees this beta and thinks that those crimps you use to pull through the crux are actually decent!
hahaha! oh those crimps are so painful! i should've re-read your beta again through the years, i would've re-tried the dyno variation... hey i also just Punctuation Mark and been wondering how you deciphered that cryptic crux section (i almost gave up and felt 'lucky' i found something)
I just watched your Punctuation mark video and I have no idea if you are grabbing any of the same holds I used. Probably not, but it's hard to tell from the angle since I never saw myself on the climb from that angle. I recall the crux being getting above bolt 3, and having two sloper crimps right there at bolt 3, and then I did a huge deadpoint to a rounded sloper higher up. Looks like you found a better sequence, but TBH that whole route is such a vague squeeze-job of a line that can be any grade you want it to be depending on what holds you decide are on. Shouldn't even exist in my opinion lol.
Nice one Vince! That one has a pretty short list of ascensionists over the last decade!
thanks jesse! i'll need to try to send it next time without resting on the ride side of the face crux.. still really happy with this go though
Great work!!
Dude this climb looks SICK!!!
Like a boss
looks crazy! some of the highest feet ive ever seen lol
Congrats on the send! That sequence you used from 1:00 to 1:16 was COMPLETELY different from what I did. I dunno if those holds existed when I tried it and I just never noticed (particularly all the feet) or if they just didn't exist back then because I totally would have done a tic-tacky sequence if I'd seen it lol. I did a left hand heel hook on the jug ledge, with my hands there, and pulled a comp style mantle-onto-heel to be able to reach the pocket you grab at 1:16. What you did is much better, lol. Whenever I get back into shape I need to do some re-sends of these lines with all the new beta you guys are coming out with for comparison.
yea i think i tried your beta before, but it was too comp bouldery (and/or flexible) for me.. the heel to hand mantle eluded me! did you ever use the left hand compression crimp at 1:06? it's really a decent hold but i dont ever remember that being there before---although it "looks" like it's been there the whole time and wasn't chipped into place or anything. anyway cant wait for you to come back out!
@@vincentpham976 I used something very similar to that if not that hold. I hope I can come out again before long, gonna take while to get back into a good schedule for climbing again regularly, but we will see how it goes!
Nice to see a good video of this beta after all these years. This is very different from the way I did it, but this beta looks pretty legit. I hit that same right hand sloper, but then bumped left hand straight up to a micro crimp, kneebar next to the right hand and huge bump up to the pocket to the right of the fern (you don't use it in this video). One of these days I need to get back out there again and try this beta.
thanks jesse! yea tyler was showing us that beta that he learned from ya.. i looked at the holds while lowering once and thought it would be very efficient (cutting out extra moves), but REALLY hard! is your vid on IG, it'd be very interesting to see it completed that way
@@vincentpham976 nah I never got a video of it. Videoing climbs wasnt that common back then haha
Wtf dude that’s wild
So creative
haha thanks gabe! gotta learn the "dyno" beta --- these guys dyno'ing on a horizontal route geezz
Damn!
Nice one! Next time I'm out at Reimer's I'm gonna see if I can send this thing off the couch...after a year of no climbing and 25lbs overweight lmao!
off the couch wowzers, that sounds insane!! can't wait for your return my man!
Wouldn’t count as a send without Vincent’s classic screams.
🤣
Nice work homie! This beta of yours and Hank's looks pretty legit to me!
thanks jesse! i studied your beta so many times thanks for posting that vid (from 7 years ago wow!)
Great work breaking down all that beta! Made it look easy Vince.
thanks homie.. also that was a siick "eye level" vid that you posted of matt crushing this route so quickly!
Lets gooo!!!
I liked this style of less fast forwarding. Nice send
thx! i cant help fast forwarding----my slow climbing is soo boring.. haha
@@vincentpham976lol i don’t think so I just love watching climbing. You should let me know when you don’t come to San Antonio.
You cruised it! Nice job
thx ruuubes!