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@@potatonado2341 its a solid machine but its old today and very slow compared to latest models. I mostly use my faster machines today but this for larger prints. So my conclusion is If you get it at a low cost or free why not. This design and electronics are today over 8 years old but it dont make it a bad machine. The motion system is based on old makerbot replicator / wanhao duplicator.

@ thank you for the quick reply to an old video. I’d love to chat further sometime! You’ve gained a sub

@@gibsonflores7694 i have latest but they are poorly documented. First i got turned everything cinese. Make sure If you update to update screen firmware they are connected and separate firmware. Screen has to be detached and a pain to be able to insert sd card with firmware. Iam not home for a few days so cant check wath I run but remember i had to scroll for a long while to find the correct european latest one. It had completely differrent version numbers to the chinese one wath i remember.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 yeah i got mine in chinese when i updated, it is no worry, i can always translate with my phone. my problem is the z or the bed is moving the opposite way. did you change anything with BL touch or the Gcode after updating?

@ i mean the displaly firmware does not affect the print, or does it?

@@gibsonflores7694 no changes it worked as it should.

@@gibsonflores7694 fog me when I had right firmware the display did not work until I updated the screen. The screen firmware is bundled in the download package.

nevermind mate, i already figure it out, thanks

@@dylangonzalez2146 you must mention the ones in the efit extruder set files? This is adapter in differrent lengths to thread in a ptfe coupler. Its clamped on the extreder it self at the bottom. There is a couple thats included with extruder but not wath we need to connect with a short ptfe tube. You have a short ptfe tubing to connect with stock hotend here for fillament to go thru. Its a the ptfe couplers with m6 threads. This is a extra security together with the bracket to keep it all stiff in place for smooth feeding. The extruder kit dont have one of this i bought so had to include it. Thus is If you have a bowden style original hotend. The adapters are made for the coupler to thread in the plastic of them . I hope this helps.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 thanks a lot partner

@@iamstuarthamilton hi there. I have tested creality ones and a very lowcost clone. But the clone fans are usually very bad and I recomend creality ones for best price and value. And sovol is a brand tightly connected to creality and found there fan kit to work Great. The 2 other fans actually work well and more silent then stock ones for hotend as well. I hope this helps. amzn.eu/d/9RkJUwI

@@iamstuarthamilton keep in mind that you have to reuse cables from old original ones and sonder or twist together on the new ones. This is to get the small connector. And use shrink tubes or Electric tape to isolat each cable where you connect them.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 brilliant, thanks for the info.

@@DavidBekker housing is very much not needed in a printfarm setting. And yes cooling is better without and less weight on the hotend. The housing is actually pretty heavy. There is a printable housing on ankermakrs stl site with much better airflow but I dont need it. And to be sure with the noctuas i have it off. I think noctua push a little less air then originals but so much more silent.

@@liljon870 i dont have parts to show but could try later in the week. The trick is that you cut the cable close to the old one because we need the smal socker. Now you cut the cable on the noctua fan with some extra length. Now we have to make the metal parts bare on the cable parts. I lately use a ligther to burn away isolation in the ends. Do so you have enough to twist the ends so they get stiffer. Now you cross the ends you want to connect and twist them together no soldering needed. When this is done i isolate the bare metal of the cables with shrink tubes or Electric tape. Black is always minus and I do remember noctua have 4 If iam right and simply cut the 2 extra away. Noctua fans are enabled to be able to control the speed on an why it have 4. But you only need plus and minus because cooling always run at full speed. I think I searched the cable order on noctua online when I did it. I hope this helps. Iam at my fulltime jobb a industrial factory so hard to write.

Thank you, i’ll try tomorrow 👌🏼

Noctua is in and it’s great How do you make de part cooling fan so quiet?

@liljon870 its a petg print so fans on max 10'20 %. But I have modded my machines to use creality fans that is double the size. And they are super silent even on 100%. I have the files for the mod on cults 3d. Not had time to make video about them because all machines run work in petg. But hope for the weekend. I made a adapter to add bigger cooling fans.

I’m going to search your adapter to make it, can you still use the print head cover with it? I use the black one you have on your m5c on your cult3d photo (sorry for my english i’m French)

@@dmitriykozmin3091 my machine is converted to direct drive but If I remember it right with original bowden setup it where 2-3 mm. I try to addapt with a fast travel to avoid stringing and blobs as well. On the direct drive retraction is as low as 1 mm and lower to 0.6 mm. On the cr5 with all metal do you not want a to long retraction or it will clogg alot. I hope it helps.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 thank you very much!

@@lauchsuppesan55 my machine dont have the wifi function so I cant help you there. But make sure to transfer on older 2.4 ghz to avoid a simple mistake. My vacum robot refuses anything else wireless then the old 2.4 g bandwith. Also try to have a blank sd card on the 3d printer If it tryes to write anything. My old creality cr 5 writes the bed mesh data on the same sd card you have your 3d files as a bin filé.

I think I'm right in saying you can't upload files via WiFi as it was never updated by the company,you can transfer gcodes by connect a pc to it or by SD card,i know because i did it very easily.i hope this helped? Happy printing 👍

@@MauroPedernera-q7c use the pronterface app for computers. Connect thru a usb cable the computer and printer. Make sure the app is connected to your printer and I think the default values to connect worked for me. After that you only send new esteps trhu the app with marlin commands. And dont forget to end with the save to eeprom command. Now you are good to go and new esteps is saved on the printer.

@@MauroPedernera-q7c you only need the information on changing esteps and sving to eeprom from this vide. Happy printing. th-cam.com/video/0z-Q-ZZ3Wwk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=G3tAahEDWOk08zyJ

@@JessicaStevens-u3q did you use there own slicer wiibuilder or wath its called ? Anyway so do there slicer have a specific start gcode you have to copy If you use another slicer. In the start gcode is it telling it to bed level and heat nozzles up. Make sure you have not the one for a version with heated bed so it tryes to do this also. But very hard for me to guess? but very comon is that the z offset is completely off and you should be able to find it in the machines menues.

Thank you so much for your quick reply. I can't remember what slicer I used. I just want to delete all of that and go back to the original files that were provided and worked just fine. How do I reset the Tina too so that the z offset is reset and computed correctly?

@@designsavvy08 i dont remember completely but is there not a eproom reset hole beside the screen? You know like on some android tablets where you use a needle to push it. I have my tina not in use and in my basement for the last 8 months.

Hi there. If I remember things rught so did I do the old paper trick in corners. Then I run the long bed mesh sektion to see the differrence more closely. Then fine adjust the corners according to wath the mesh tells me . And do this a couple of times. I also had huge problems and If I remember it right it dont even use the bed mesh by default in the start gcode? You have to put that gcode command there. And dont ever remove the bin filé it writes on the SD card it stores data there. The bed probe is a weird after thought by creality and a bit weird. The z end swithch is not even connected in the board in the back of the printer. So I ended up treating the z probe as a z endswitch at the end. The machine is actually really Great but the design and tech is like over 10 year old technology in a new Nice clothes. I will share crealitys vide i used at the start. But do the setup at least 2-3 times and have a sd card in the machine that you are going to use with all your prints. Sorry for all miss spelling a bit tired after midsummer here in sweden.

Here is the official video. th-cam.com/video/CJmKv6xUPaI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=WGY6ibxbdaEfx5I0

And wath they dont tell you.... Do all of this with a hot bed around 50-65. When the bed gets hot it is slightly differrent to a cold one.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 every time I level my bed when it comes to the center there’s a big gap , my cr-5 pro doesn’t have a auto leveling sensor Should I get one , which on is compatible?

@@UC0srV8fjklaaFv5K314 then you have the old cr-5. I have the cr-5 h where h stands for high temp. Wath you explain is the z offset. This do you adjust on the screen and can also be done while printing. If its very high you are supposed to lower it and even might get a minus value . I adjusted this on my first print while printing. But I cant answer If we even have same menues or firmware when yours is the old one. If you add a bl touch you will have to update firmware on the machine and the screen and how they done it is not that easy. They use a split cable inserted to differrent pins on the board.

I used the free tinkercad app and measured where the fan holes are and simply printed many versions and changes until I had a fit 😄

Jo den funkar bra som en enkel direkt drive konvertering utan å förstöra maskinen för mycket 😄 Bara kolla över matar hjulen å spänn till lås skruvarna innan du sätter ihop allt. På min lossna hjulet för de var för dåligt åtdragna från creality. Annars funkar extrudern bra med maskinen. Jag använde min 3d fil som mall och skar ut en platta att fästa den med i slutändan. Det finns bättre extruders men denna funkar bra mot vad den kostar.

Tack för svar! Jag printar uteslutande PETG med denna maskin och har egentligen inte haft några större bekymmer, men nu har orgnialextrudern börjat sjunga på sista versen. Skulle du säga att detta är en märkbar förbättring mot orginal bowden, eller är det bättre att satsa på en helt annan? Framför allt så vill jag har enkla filamentbyten och minimerad stringing. Orginalextrudern är hemsk att nå då skrivaren står något trångt :) Förstår jag dig rätt att du tillverkade plattan i metall istället? @@3dskrivarskoj176

I have everything at cults3d site.

Are you in the us? Best is to search creality e fit extruder kit to get all listings to find best price. In that case this link. a.co/d/9Ezmzff

Get a new from support or read the backside wich one to order. Usually states voltage and size. 30x30x10 is squared 30 mm and 10 mm thick for example. Voltage is important. And simplier to get from them when they use shorter cable and right connector.

Try adding z lift/z hop and dont run supports to fast or to thin line width. Find 0.39 to work well on a 0.4 nozzle. Its good machines but sometimes to fast for its own good. Find 250 mms and 2500 acceleration give very stable and Nice prints. Travel can always be a bit higher like 300-500 mms and acceleration 3000 - 5000. But usually only have it 100 higher that fastest print speed and acceleration 500-1000 then highest on print speed. Also try to tick in to avoid supportd during travel.

I have not used my tina for a little while. So the fan do not start after you heat to like 55? The fans are not supposed to kick in until heat hits above 50. Dont overtight the screws holding the fan or it might get stuck. Check all connectors to the small board all the way to main board under the screen for loose connectors. If you are in bad luck the small board back on the x gantry could be damaged. But to be sure also check so they sent the right fan.... I think tina uses 5 volt fans and most resellers sell 12 or 24 volt ones.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 thanks for helping and i was able to get it to work, the fan started spinning after it heated to 50, even though it did not do it before…

Thanks 😁

To print at higher at speed with fillaments that did not print well before. Try to put temp to 220-230 and retry. I have some fillaments that have to be printed at 240 and is pla 😄 This is more that some pla have there temp data on them for print speeds around 40-60 mms. I usually print around 90-250 mms depending on material. Its fast enough and give good prints. I more recomend playing with jerk and acceleration with the m5c. I found travel jerk 22 and acceleration 3000. And then jerk 14-18 acceleration 1600-2500 on other tasks to work well for me. Lower values for outer perimeter and top and bottom layers. I love my 2 machines.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Awesome, thank you 😁👍All noted: -Temperature: -- 220-230°C for better filament performance, even 240°C for certain PLA / pretty much highest temperature to not have stringing at used speeds. - Print Speed: -- Print at 90-250 mm/s, faster than PLA recommendations of 40-60 mm/s / see above - Jerk and Acceleration: (never changed these settings before when using other printers) -- Travel jerk 22, acceleration 3000. --For other tasks, jerk 14-18, acceleration 1600-2500 --Lower values for outer perimeter and layers. 👌🙂 Yep, just finished two nice prints, also very much font of my M5C so far 🤩 Thanks and have a good time ✌😀

If you look at the 8 screws on the top so are they connected to the brackets holding the rods for y. On them can you tilt the entire x and y assembly. 2 of them in each corner have cutouts so how much you tighten the screws on this affects how skewed it gets. Also make sure the y rods are inserted the same lenght in these brackets. My machine had one side slightly more then the other. I hope this helps.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Left rear bracket and right front bracket have cutouts only so I have no idea how to correct YZ plane only. Maybe I would have to move front sloted bracket to back.

@@arturomendez7945 you loosen all 8 screws so you can jiggle the entire carriage. Is it skewed on y or z plane? If y have one corner tightened and do adjustements and cross tighten when you are happy. When I corrected y so did I have 2 blocks in same size. Pushed back x carriage so the x Rod and the frame clamped them. Important its against the rods as far as to the right and left you can. Tightened the rear 4 screws. Now I do the same with the front that where loose during the whole process. Only loose not completely unscrewed.

@@arturomendez7945 there is really no good way to do it but using the block method worked for me.

Where a while I updated mine. But wath I remember i had to search around on github If I remember it right. I think its small fixes but always good to have latest. But its a pain to update screen firmware as well and is a must. You have to loose the bottom plate and then the entire box screen is in. Then unscrew the screen to reach its sd card slot. Every firmware have its own firmware for screen. Else it gets dark.

My firmware zipp is called cr-5 pro_hmarlin 1.1.6-hw-v2.2-sw-v0.05multi. This have firmware and screen firmware. So wath you asked i have 0.05 multi. Multi stunds for multi language or everything is chinese. Iam happy with mine so not changing 😁 I have changed settings in firmware thru pronterface.

Wath I can see i downloaded it 2023-06-29 and where the latest then.

Does CR5-PRO-H firmware accept M852 gcode command?

@@arturomendez7945 only i know is that cr5 uses a old version of marlin. Dont think its marlin 2.0? Never used it but for me its better to have the hardware correct. You could put it in the start gcode and try ? See If it do anything. Simpliest to check. I could try to make a video explaining how I do it but its late here now.

Sounds like heat creep. Its when heat creeps up the hotend. Is the top on so remove it and see If it still happens. I usually get it when forgetting to remove the top for pla or petg prints. Another thing is that the small cooling fan could be bad or dirty. Also check so you dont have dust on the parts that need cooling on the hotend. Early on did it happen to me that the tube with cooling pattern that is attached to the main fillament tube had slided down to close to heating block. With pliers and som force did I manage to slide it up again.

When I have same problem even with +10 degrees more and 30% less speed than usual I oil PLA filament as: th-cam.com/video/OG7We83M5gc/w-d-xo.html. I print Firt and second layers at low speed (30 mm/s) without oil at all to keep glass from oil and next layers with oiled PLA filament. Do no use much oil. I try to print other 15-20 hours only PLA before print with PETG, ABS or TPU. As such filaments does not like oil at all. Always use clean spongue "filter" to remove any dust from new/old PLA,PETG, ABS,TPU filament spools. With PLA use two "filters" one clean filter and second one with olive oil printed on black PLA to distinguished from clean filter. First layer usually is printed at low speed that why it does not fail.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 So I removed the lid and it was printing fthen. I switched over to a different color filament. And now it runs for a little bit and then stops and starts with the clicking.

@@ZFighterSonGoku check the small 30x30 cooling fan. Either replace it or see If it only need a cleaning. The hotend cooling fan is not Great. You could also try to have the door open to give better air cirkulation. My machine is heavily modified so it prints very well today.

I really dont think its even close. More 40-60 mms. It have a old 8 bit board and old loud stepsticks. Who told it do?

i dont know if its true!! but TINA 2S specifications are 200mm/s@@3dskrivarskoj176

Hi. I dont understand could you write in english please .

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Hallo, can you Preise upload the stl-file for the cooling System online, Thanks

Probably broken sensor cable. It do 1 or 2 probes and nothing else? This is very comon on the tina 2 machines. Contact weedo and see If they send you a new one.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 it just displays it for a bit then skips it completely to heating

X or y?

the y @@3dskrivarskoj176

like the plate

@@3dskrivarskoj176 y the belt came off

@@loganwayman-n4k you can unscrew the y motor to make it easier to get the belt on. The belt is only put inside a cutout to not slip on the bed carriage it self. Its easier to take of the motor and put the belt on. Or at least make the motor looser. When you have belt on and motor tightened the try to get the belt properly on the y carriage.

The same tina is sold by 3-5 other brands with small changes. Weedo is only one of them and entina is another.

hi , let me explain something there are 3 versions of the base model tina without the 's at the end. first version did include the metal guard so kids don't stick their hands inside. second version removed the metal guard and upgraded the hot end with the red silicone, whenever is printing it is almost close to impossible to stick a finger in the hot end while is printing that's why they removed the unnecessary metal shield . third and final version they fix some problems with the auto calibration sensor and upgraded it to a Chinese better brand more mhz to be more precise but rest assure all the versions come from the factory weedo the only other company that sells the same machine with different brand logo is the etina they are rebranding the weedoo printer with their logos.

Cr5 pro and cr5 pro h have exactly the same Mother board. So If you buy bl touch for the cr5 h and install the cr 5 h firmwares so should that work. They have a weird split of the cables when connected to the board. Connected to differrent pins. But next thing is how do your x carriage look? The bl touch is attached with a small bracket there on the right side. You nhave to attach it there somewhere. Check crealitys after sale videos on replacing bl touch on cr5 h here on TH-cam. How do I know its the same board ? Could mot find a cr5 h board when mine broke and got the one for cr5 and only flashed the tight firmware. Where old cr5 one one it when it arrived. And get the right firmware and is a mess to get. Should be the one released in 2022 in the fall with marlin in the name. And you must flast both screen and board separately. I woke up here right now so sorry for spelling and things.

Which specific brand of the BL Touch did you use? I couldn't get either the Creality CR Touch or the Greeetech 3DTouch to mount to my printhead. The brackets weren't the right size and the cables were too short. @@3dskrivarskoj176

I just received my CR-5 pro recently and trying to do basic PLA prints at the moment. What filament retraction speed and print speed do you recommend??

6 months ago I would probably say a clear yes. But today there is many other models that do print faster and have a lower price. But iam very happy with mine after many moods and fixes. The cr5 is built like a tank and prints very well. But it prints at speeds around 40 -60 mms If you want it to sound less. I have my workshop in a apartement so sound is important and why I dont have a voron or bambu machine. Precision is something that can easially be tweaked.

Only make sure to disable power loss recovery on this machine. It make annoying blobs on prints If not disabled.

Ok thanks

What other models would you recommend

@@motionbricks5770 thats a tough one. I have looked a bit on the snapmaker j1 that is a idex machine. Also looked a bit on the creality cr 200b pro and keep in mind the pro variant and not standard low temp model. Last one I got where a sovol sv05 that works really well on a budget. I use it for petg and pla prints more or less.

Make sure you dont make any errors in the slicer like have changed printing temp. Hardware wise so is the cable management on this machine terrible. All the cables do more orvless break at some point. With it turning of heating could be many things.... Thermistor cable or heather cable etc. Do you not get any message in the display?

@@3dskrivarskoj176 No, I replaced the fan and still nothing. It just clogs no matter what I do. The company is supposed to be sending me another one, but I'm still messing with this one to get it working.

@@sokoloft3 sometimes you have to cut away a small bit of the ptfe tubing that goes all down to the nozzle so you know. Only a small bit like 10 mm. But is tough to get everything thight later when putting it back together. The tubing degrades by time from the heat . And it goes all the way to the nozzle that is bad more pr less.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 I don't think its that but I'll take a look. Right now its printing, just it isn't reliable feeding. It got done with what would of been the raft and started extruding. Its printing, but just barely and looks awful. Waiting for it to finish to see what happens. With the fan I have as well its too big. So I can only screw in two of the bolts, so the whole extruder head has slop in it front to back. All sorts of jank. Hopefully the other one is in better condition or has parts I can take from it

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Awesome, well so far so good. I got it to successfully print a 1kg spool holder for it, as well as some feet that elevate it up some. Its on the second foot now and hasn't clogged! However, when I first got it. I cleaned it with the heating block on and the nozzle removed. So plastic got on the threads and now they're practically gone and cross threaded. So that heating element is pretty well butchered. Glad I'm getting another one. I need to find where to buy a new one since that and the fan is all thats wrong with this one I'm thinking.

Very often is the problem then that the fan on hotend shuts down or stop at some positions. This is very comon with fan cable breaking on it and again the machines terrible cable management.

I've had the exact same issue and haven't been able to get mine working in the entire year I've had it. Have you found any solutions?

@@raincat1o1 No. I received another unit from the seller and it worked. The issue with the old one is that the fan wasn't spinning and the white PTFE guide tube wasn't down into the heatsink of the hot end. It needs to but up to the hot ends tube

Yes I will. I got flooded with print Jobs so not manged so much lately 😁 I have a sovol sv05 now as well to manage all print work 😁 Heavy duty on cr5 and pla and petg on the other.

You have original setup? I have 5 mm and 45 mms with pla. 4 mm 45 mms petg. After I modded mine iam down to 2-3mm with 25 mms. High temp materials like nylon i more or less turn retraction off because it like to clogg on stock nozzle and dont string much. If you have alot of stringing on nylon and petg etc so try to dry fillament 70 degrees atleast 1-2 hours in a ordinarie oven. I built my own drybox i use all the time.

Stock hotend like to clogg very easy on hightemp materials. Try to buy fillament from same supplier when you have a good setting. Even a differrent color can change ideal setting to avoid stringing. I usually have around 0.126 in prime amount after retraction also. This is a extra push amount to avoid gapps. And be sure to turn of power loss recovery in the start gcode..... Power loss is a mess on the cr5 and gives bad print quality.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Hi, PETG can be dry easyly with most of commercial dryer. However I could not find a commercial dryer for Nylon. I already have original hardware setup. My headache are strings with PETG. Using same PETG filament spool I can print well on printer with RAMP board and Anet A8 frame and bouden tube while CR-5 PRO H prints with a lot of string. I use 4.1 mm @ 40 mms on retraction settings for PLA. I will try with values similar like you for PETG. Which nozzle do you recommend for upgrade? Thanks again

@@isabelgardunodominguez3205 cr5 h have all metall hotend that could be the problem when you compare with your anet when it comes to stringing. I have a creality drybox with silica gel at bottom. When I use it i have a capricorn tubing from drybox all the way to the printer. 30 mins before printing i always start the heating for a while with the small Rubber plug open. When you heat moist have to get out somewhere. When I dont use nylon I have it completely sealed in the same drybox with silica gel pouches at the bottom. I could try when iam home to post a small video. Iam on vacation 8 hours from home right now 😁

@@isabelgardunodominguez3205 petg and nylon I always unload and put in sealed boxes with silica gel when not printing. Its more i cant afford lost time on failed prints.

Check for updated model called tina2 s. The s after is important.... New model with heated bed and silent stepsticks. Clas ohlsson do not have this one that I know. But check on Amazon sweden. The model that have heathed bed is the updated one.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 Thanks for the quick answer and thanks for the heads up about the 'S' version 👍 I've worked with bigger, more advanced printers before, but now I'd like to help my local library get started with offering the public access to 3d printing. I'm thinking it might be best for them to start with something compact and inexpensive so they can have several available before they invest in anything bigger or more advanced. If it's a printer that's available to buy at Clas Olsson, then people can get a good introduction at the library and maybe end up buying something similar for their own home. But from what you say, I'll definitely recommend the s-version instead. It's similar enough to what's available to buy on the high street, but the improved functionality is essential in the library environment I think. Have you heard of any Swedish libraries offering 3d printing facilities?

@@helenstrand2409 no sorry have not really checked for libraries If they have. There is another small easy to use machine from 3d prima based in Malmö aswell. And its cheaper then the tina 2. I think this have less issues then the tina2 😁 www.3dprima.com/se/3d-printers/all-3d-printers/primacreator-p120-v4-blue_24131_5228

@@helenstrand2409 If I would suggest something more expensiv it is the sovol so5 i recently got. Its around 3700 skr but a really good creality ender 5 clone with many improvements. Its a box design printer. But probably not good for a library 🤪

@@3dskrivarskoj176 The Prima looks interesting and it would be good to be able to contect a Swedish company directly. Although, I couldn't find much (recent) info/reviews online. I haven't heard of Sovol before. Looks good though. If the budget stretches to >3000sek per printer, then I think I'd be more interested in a flashforge (adventurer 3). Not just because it's available to buy off the shelf, but also because I've read good things about their printers.

If it helps iam happy 😇 The tina2 have a flawed cable arrangement and good to know about. This single cable attachment makes fan and z probe usually break pretty fast. Its to tightly attached to the x carriage.

Yes they are on cults 3d webpage. Link Button on my startade for the channel. I sell some and some are free. I more or less sell them because I got tired of other sites stealing my designs and then selling them without my approval. Now If they do I at least earn something small.

If you close the Chamber and preheat bed and hotend half an hour before starting the print so is the Chambers getting pretty warm quickly. If I remember it right abs is bed temp around 80 ? I usually only use 70 for petg and Chambers temp is around 35 with my custom spacers at top. So completely closed you should reach 40 or even higher pretty easy.

I use a digital outdoor one with a cable to see temp at bottom and top of chamber. Pretty low priced at the hardware store. Have the display at bottom and put cable at top inside chamber.

I am having problems with my first layer. I level the bed perfectly, but when it prints the side closest to the back wall (where the build plate is supported) is too close to where it can't extrude, and the side opposite (near door) is way too far away so there's no squish. The build plate has a lot of flex if I slightly press down on it. Are you having these issues?

@@smokin411 sorry for the late answer but I dont get notifications it looks like. I tension the bed springs so it can flex but still being stiff. Then I do 4 corner check with the measuring tool you get with machine. After that I do a auto mesh. The z enddtop is disabled on my machine from factory and it only do z check thru bltouch. Now do the z offset also as a last thing . If z endstop would be connected mine would hit it with the tension i use. I always take off glas plate when removing parts.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 I figured out my problem. It was not my bed flexing like I thought. I did not run the 16 point measurement. I only manually set bed level at 4 corners. I saw the zaxis was moving up and down on same layer where it should not. After I ran that 16 point measurement, I have great results. Instruction manual is very bad, never knew measuring program was required. We are getting good results now! Thanks

Wath 5$ part iam intrested ;)

You mean the one for the hotend? The machine is more or less a metal case with ender parts so should not be hard to source parts. but but the cheap loud hotend fan is crazy and i replaced it very quickly. And lucky me i havent payed for it and only use it for another company so far :) They got it and shipped it to me. But i have already used it many hours so far but thats for petg. i do really not think its ideal to print fully enclosed and higher temp fillaments how its shipped. So far i like the machine but i did not pay for it!

And i have noticed they have a new hotend coming for it? Not the spider but another one better for hightemp stuff.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 it is diddicult to source parts. The fan and thermistors are not normal sizes. Creality themselves will send an entire hot end before they give you a thermistor. 3d jake doesn't sell them either.

@@3dskrivarskoj176 and no... nothing that will fit this. I'm working on making my own carriage for the new sprite.

Yes have noticed they are happy to sell compete kits. Have you tryed 3d prima they ship globally wath I know? They hsve aloy of creality parts. And here is a link to the hotend i think I will buy ? My link is in swedish so change that on the homepage to english 🤪 www.3dprima.com/se/reservdelar-tillbehoer/tillverkare/creality-3d/creality-3d-cr-5-pro-h-high-temp-hot-end-assembly_27026_8471