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Hi. I purchased these tines from this person on eBay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386072601925?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=c2-_i5n4r06&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rT4WmmkzRny&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Your listening skills aren't very good.

@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Sure I can listen to a four minute video to overturn 30 years of experience? Sure bar oil might be a little bit better, but it's not free like waste oil. And I'm still using the same bar on the saw I bought in 1996. 5 -6 cords a year. Now top that.

@@andrewhanson5942 this guys just a shill for big bar and chain oil.

@@bobbygetsbanned6049 your lacking common sense

same here , i dont even filter it , been using it since the 70s and cant really remember ever having any bar issues ,

Good luck, and I hope the vid helps you sort the problem out 😁

@@DugatDizzyLizzys it did indeed. One of the bushes had pulled half way out of the roller. I’m not exactly sure how that was causing the clunking rather than driving, but I’ve tapped it back in and it’s pulling like a train now. I’ve got the rebuild spares list waiting to order if it’s not a permanent fix. I’d have never tried it without your video, much appreciated.

It's happened a few times 🤦🤣

I agree with packing things with grease helps in maintaining, but not in this case. I do put copper slip on the drive pins, but there are a few reasons I don't pack them with grease. In my opinion it's thus. 1) If the machine is regular used, the pins will not seize up on the shaft. This is a pro machine and I know they put miles on it each week. 2) If I pack it with grease, there is a good possibility as the plastic axle bearings will wear and allow the grease to leak out from the disc as it's loose, and it may cause the customer to call me as they have grease on their roller and its also on the grass they've just cut. And nobody wants to end up with grease on their foot after walking on their lawn. 3) the pins are a few pound to replace, and after 3 roller changes on a machine, all I've had to do is file a little bur off the drive shaft the pins slide through with each pin replacement. 4) Grease is sticky stuff. Grease + grass clippings and dust = grinding paste = wears out faster. Hope that explains why I don't pack these with grease 😁

@@DugatDizzyLizzys Dug, my info regarding the grease was direct reference from the Hayter service bulletin. I've personally never seen the grease leak out onto the roller, but it does help to lube the shaft where it runs through the end caps as well. In the near future the cams will be better sealed and those two washers fixed in place, instead of relying on the outer bushes to do it. How are the gearboxes holding out on the PRO's? We seem to get through quite a few of them.

@@TGMForum I've worked on machines that are a couple of years old, and they have never been packed with grease. Is that an addendum to the manual? The 479 series had a bad gearboxes and I've changed a few of them, but never any rollers, but the new 479 series, I've just changed the rollers. A customer has had 3 sets of rollers fitted, but not a gearbox, yet, but then I expect the rest of the mower to be knackered first.

@@DugatDizzyLizzys Dug, that's what we were told to do from day one as a main service dealer. I think the bulletin was sent out to remind the dealers to do it. I've changed loads of keys and cams and end caps, not so many roller sections though. Oh, and gearboxes. And a lot of bbc top pulley halves under warranty on the first ones. These machines have already gone through a few changes since they came out, and more will be coming.

Most electric chainsaws I've come across, the chain doesn't spin as fast compared to a petrol saw, so there is less flung off the end and allows the chain to be lubed. That bit of chain lube helps the waste oil stick to the bar also. It may be OK for occasional use, but constant work requires a proper chain lube.

HI Ste. I've added this info to the video. I purchased the bar and 2 chain kit from eBay UK. It is made by Rockwood product so could be purchased directly from them. This is the link for eBay, and it's sold by Tree And Grass Spares www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311904869577

I changed a belt years ago, and it was a simple enough job. Take the cover off first to see if the belts gone.

@@DugatDizzyLizzys thanks for the quick response I’m pretty sure it’s the belt but will get it apart over the weekend to have a good look thanks again for the help 👍

That's an old mower to have a Tecumseh engine on it. Was it a Mountfield, as I had one decades ago given to me. I didn't get it to run properly, but I didn't know about mowers then. Nice bargain 👍

@@DugatDizzyLizzys It's a LawnChief 420p Buddy big red thing. Or 720p not sure as sticker on it is cut. It's seen better days but still cuts the grass okay.

@colski222 are you in the USA? I'm in the UK, so machinerys different, but there are mainly 4 engines fitted to them all.

UK buddy Norfolk 👍

Hi Darren. I'm feeling better thank you. It's a project bike I bought 3 years ago and it hasn't moved since. It's a Gpz900r.

Ohh nice one they’re a nice bike

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you, I try my best.

Hi I had one in that the engine bolts were loose that made the engine move when starting and engaging the blade brake. If it's when you use the blade brake, check the blades balanced, and everything is secure and correctly fitted. Hope that helps.

Hi thanks for your reply. It’s when it’s reving as soon as the blade is engaged it is smooth??

@user-of6gv4db1r when the BB is engaged, it grips the 2 discs to drive the blades. Same thing on this mower is happening. As they were loose they make a vibration until the BB is engaged because of wear. If you say it looks ok, then is the grub screw tight and the discs close together as where the grub screw tightens down on, can wear and allow the discs to move about. Also check the belt tensioner and other bits along the belts path. TBH, it's easier when I can see it, than to help online. I hope this is helpful 😁