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You could - actually designed a system for a customer here -buildahottub.com/case-study-franciscos-fire-pit-hot-tub-build/ - but he ended up taking it out and replacing with gas as the whole fire thing was not good. Thanks for the comment - Andi

@ thanks!

ok, this sounds like it is not configured correclty for th part you have plugged in. You get a flow error if the spa pack thinks it has turned on the circulation pump but it actually hasnt. MS 50U is basically a BP501 spa pack. Circulation pump should be in J21, Jet Pump should be in J8 & J14. You need to select a setup mode that reflects this - the OEM BP501 this would be mode #2 - I have a video that explains this here - th-cam.com/video/948mZcTMiQs/w-d-xo.html if the pack is set to default, it will expect a dual speed pump rather than a circulation pump and this is why you are getting the error - hope that helps - Andi

@Buildahottub I have those in the correct spots. Can try to put set up #2 in the test mode area. Only thing I question is where the white jumpers should be, in area 3, which is where I have them and moved J47 from area 1 to area 3 thinking it may be the issue since it says the circ. Pump 1 and Ozone all need to be same voltage, 240 not 120. Or could my heat sensor be faulty that is plugged into J29... which dip switches should be up? 3?

Switching between area 3 and 1 changes the voltage from your kit from 120v to 240v - obviously this needs to be set correctly. Matching the rating of the devices. This will cause a breaker trip not a flow error.. more likely to be a program number being incorrect or a faulty sensor - #3 is usually up - hope that helps - Andi

@Buildahottub thank you. With the warm-up here in michigan, I'm going to attempt to refill hot tub and see if we can put the set up on 2 to see if it makes a difference. Then, plan on checking the relay if I can figure out which one is the cir pump.

@Buildahottub Attempted, set up 2 w/dip switch 3 on. Did not work. We did however move the circulation pump to where pump 1 connects and rebooted, circulation pump then ran and was heating without giving a HTR MAY Be Dry code which means...the circulation pump works fine. Do do know what relay maybe faulty?

Glad it helped!

I think it was about 10-12K (USD), there was about $4K of plumbing plus the chiller - he actually has a heater on it too so it can be switched into a hot tub if he wants - hope that helps - Andi

Was one of my early videos 3+ years old, (you can tell by the quality too lol) was still finding my feet with making videos etc. Hopefully the newer videos tick all the boxes - thanks for the watch and comment - Andi

If you are worried about rust, you could use a scrificial anode, they are more common in salt systems using a hiigher reactive metal to protect the rest of the kit as it get "sacrificed" and is attacked by the corrosion first - hope that helps - Andi

Hi There, the guys at Balboa (who I know well and have spoken at length on this matter) are convinced that their check valve makes their heat pump more efficient as it gives it exactly the right amount of flow - so not too much or too little - that is why it is on the input. Yes they are different types of valves, this is a flapper which allows the gate/flap to open when there is too much pressure so that firstly you dont loose pressure on your jets, but secondly too much flow is not going through the heat pump - this is important on a dual speed single pump setup. - Hope that helps - Andi

I dont do it that way with my range. Singe jet, single pump, fitness swimmer, single jet, dual pump, good swimmer / fitness enthusiast - anything more than this then you should look at a hydraulic system if you are an athlete or pro swimmer then my system is not for you - hope that helps - Andi

Hi There, you dont have it configured correctly, you need to identify which pumps you have - circulation, dual speed single pump, any pump2 and then chose the correct setup mode to match the kit you have. It is just a software setting to fix that as I detail in the video. If you are not sure. drop me an email with what you have and I will try and help andi (at) buildahottub.com

Hi There, sorry for the late reply, I would replace it with a BP7 if you are in the USA or a BP8 if you are in Europe = www.parts4tubs.com and www.parts4tubs.co.uk can help with the supply - hope that helps - Andi

I think you are going to struggle without breaking into the concrete :( - Andi

9K Litres, that is a big hot tub. Depends how many jets you have and disctance to the control room for the jet pump. For the ciruclation pump, again depends on distance and how long you plan to run it for filtration as that will dictate the size - I would go for a 2HP blower as they are the largest domestic ones you can get. - Hope that helps - Andi

You can fit a check valve onto it Mickey - hope that helps - Andi

4 HS pumps I hink is the limit on a BP7, they would each have their own on/off button and you would need a keypad that supported this - thanks - Andi

That is a year old video I think now, they still have not launched the variable speed massage pump into the after sales market - the low cost circulation pumps are avaialble and are nice pieces of kit. Nobody has really followed them down this route - at the moment, the focus of the top names, Gecko and Balboa seems to be on auto dosing systems for hot tubs - been around for ages on pools, but not for tubs - hope that helps - Andi

Yes, using electric you would get to temperature, it just may take some time as it is a slow way of heating. I suggest an 11KW heater rather than a 5.5KW - hope that helps - Andi

@ will that equate to a high energy bill?

@@joemomma707 It wont be cheap, but will be no more than if you have a 5.5KW as it will just run twice a long - hope that helps Andi

@ how much do you think it would cost to just heat the spa?

@@joemomma707 Volume: 7' × 7' × 3.5' = 171.5 cubic feet = 1,283 gallons With a 5.5KW heater in California: Average electricity rate: $0.27/kWh Time to heat from 60°F to 104°F: ~18-20 hours Energy used: 5.5KW × 19 hours = 104.5 kWh Initial heating cost: 104.5 kWh × $0.27 = ~$28 Monthly maintenance heating cost: ~$60-80 (varies with usage, weather, and cover quality) Key factors affecting cost: Ambient temperature Quality of insulating cover Frequency of use Local electricity rates These are estimates based on average conditions. Hope that helps - Andi

$8-10K all in I would have thought - thanks Andi

They are not normally swing, they tend to be spring loaded on an air line. Hope that helps (sorry about the delayed response) Andi

Just troweled in - thanks for the comment - Andi

Would make sense yes so that you are covering all the parts that could potentially have a leak - thanks for the comment - Andi

Not a lot to maintian on those - I the manual for the range can be found here - parts4tubs.co.uk/product/lx-ap400-v2-blower/

Hi Antonio, thanks for the message - these are the kind of things that my paid designs cover and my online course - you can find these over at shop.buildahottub.com - hope that helps - Andi

Hi Jeff, thanks for the sub and comment - couldnt find a pic of the Jacuzzi F106 - if it is a 15" tube heater with unions on each side, then yes, the BP7 will replace that - i carry these over at www.parts4tubs.com - hope that helps - Andi (PS, email me a pic if you are not sure and I can check it out, andi@ then the website above)

Hi Jeff, I dont for that fault code - it could also be the sensors not detecting the temperature and then not telling the relays to shut off - this is more common than the relays themselves failing (which is also possible of course) - turn off power, disconnect sensors (there are two) - turn on power, ignore all error codes, leave for 5 mins, then power off, reconnect sensors and power on - this forces them to recalibrate. See how you get on. - Andi

Hi Chris - personally I don’t - I prefer to rough up the joint with glass paper first then just use pvc pipe cement - thanks for the comment - Andi

Hi Greg, you need to look at the inside of the spa pack cover - there will be a table explaining what combinations the pack supports and then the corresponding numbers. If you have a dual speed pump ignore the first column and then look for a pump 1 and pump 2 column that match what you have plus any blower or ozone etc. Hope that helps - Andi

Hi There, technically I do neither - I design in gas heaters to my hot tub designs for customers, but I don't build them for them myself. Gas heat tends to be when it is a large hot tub and they want to have it heat up quickly. I have not done any retrofit to plastic shell tubs for gas heaters - I have for heat exchangers and air source heat pumps though, so the process is the same. If you are looking to learn more, look up my Air Source Heat Pump video series, the plumbing principles are the same for a gas heater. With a gas heater, you need to enable to 5min cool down sequence on the spa pack though so stop any kettling happening. Hope tha thelps - Andi

@Buildahottub hey, thanks for replying, i sent you a lengthy email yesterday!🙂