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Great job on the puller Tom, where are you getting your engine parts from? and Thanks for the video

Great video do you take questions😊

I hope it holds up

Well, as they say at Staples: "That was Easy." Glad to see things moving along. ❤

would be in terested how thi works i had a case g188 that had air hole in side of block welded a s/s plate over it held good

Tom I think you will be ok, Good job and thanks for the video

I've seen the lads from the Norfolk Tank Museum, "Tinkering with Tanks" channel, cold stitch a crack in an engine block, but this is the first time I've seen this combined with JB Weld. What a great resource TH-cam is. Great initiative, well done.

Eat my hat, haven't heard that for many years, I've done that same repair many times, it absolutely works

Years ago I had an accident with my car. The main damage was a punched hole in the top of the aluminum oil pan. I did basically what you did, bolted in a patch. But instead of JB weld I used "Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker" to stop oil leakage. Worked perfectly, never leaked a drop, sold the car after 5 years and still a perfect seal, zero oil leakage.

I’ve seen fuel tanks last 10 years on JB weld…might be a little different with the thermal cycling, but if you didn’t have a drill or a welder and wanted to get those screws out…it would be a bad day. We have a Honda generator case that threw a rod and another one for spare parts. Might try this.

Belt and suspenders. ❤

How about good nickel rods? thanks Tom

My concern with JB welding is vibrations, can you JB weld then drill and tap the corners to hold the patch in place, or spot arc weld the corners before the JB weld to hold the patch? If the patch breaks loose and go into the rods that maybe the end of the engine.

Saw a video yesterday on inheritance machine about a pantograph rescue. Immediately thought of this repair. That would have been an interesting approach. Create a casting and then mill it to fit. Nice work! th-cam.com/video/7am-ysvGD3s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fTOzjNVqDSyeWKU3

I've heard that heating the whole work was the way to do it. The fact that there is no pressure helps as you say. I hope the JB Weld holds. She's gonna be like new otherwise. ❤

When you talked about weldimg the block , I only thought about arc or gas welding , but await the results of an epoxy weld .

there is also a way to wire in one or more capacitors and switchs the diagram to do this is on the internet i looked it up once a friend of mine did this for his lathe and mill.

It is what it is. I remember reading that if the 3 phases are not balanced on the "inverter" motor, which can happen when you do this, you can burn out the motor. Something like that... more than I understands quite frankly. ❤ Let's hope you can turn the lathe at the speed you need.

wow very cool

I guess the chunk out of the Block is gone forever, Transmission looks good, have you located your engine parts? I would like to know where you found them Tom, thanks for the videos Tom see ya on the next one

Losing the transmission oil actually gave you a better look inside... fortuitous. ❤ It's working in your favor, Tom.

You did a nice job on the wiring - Looks Good !

Here's a tip. Get 2 or 3 chain hooks and weld them on the top of the loader bucket, 1 on each side, and 1 in the middle. This heps a lot when lifting stuff with the loader.

You look confident in the prospect for rescuing this tractor. ❤

Do you know how to realign the balancing shaft? ❤

Thanks Tom, hope you don t fine anything else damaged in the rest of the engine, see ya on the next video

As others mentioned John Deere used balance shafts on there 4 cylender engines to kill vibration . Sort of hard to tell what let go first at this point. Sure will make great vewing for us watching. Afrade there is no way to make a cheep repair of this one. any ideea how many hours on the unit now ? Looks like a nice tractor.

i think this part of the coounterbalance.

That Tractor is setup just like mine., When you go back together with the front end. Make sure to clean the Bolts and bolt holes and use Locktite. It can and will vibrate loose. it happened to me right after I bought mine., The fan will takeout the rad. Not telling you what to do ,just a tip to help. Also check the Hydraulic pump seal.on the front pump. Liked and shared. All my very best.

I have watched a lot of tractor rebuilds on TH-cam, yes I am a keyboard mechanic😁! I am always amazed at all of the different ways people choose to rebuild a tractor like this. On one extreme: braze a plate over the new hole on the side of the engine; soak a rag in acid and wrap it around the crank shaft to remove bits of bearing ( if any is left could not tell from the picture) then polish the shaft by hand with wet/dry sandpaper; get new connecting rod check bearing fit with plastic gage; is piston, rings and liner good enough??? Pull head and check valves, are they bent from being kissed by the piston, actually saw one person straighten a valve and lap it back in! The main issue with doing all of this is how much metal debris got picked up by the oil system and fed back through oil galleys??????? When after doing all of this work will metal debris left in the oil system (if there is any in there) greatly reduce engine life? And of course replace balance shaft and gear. Of course there is the other extreme of the mechanic that completely takes everything apart, inspects every thing for correct tolerances and replaces/corrects anything out of spec. Repaints everything! I believe these tractors that are done this nicely are called, "Parade Queens". They other scenario I have seen is where you have a tractor like yours and you find a cheap parts tractor that the engine is old and worn out but the transmission and rear and are trash; combine the two to get on working tractor. Good Luck! What ever you do it should make for good viewing. Thank you, I have really been enjoying your channel!

Yes, those are balancing shafts. 4 cylinder engines use some type of balancing system. The crankshaft will need checked to see if it is cracked, because of the thrown rod. A machine shop can check it before they grind the crank. You should be able to get a used balance shaft from a parts yard that tears older tractor's down. Maybe check to see what they mite want for a complete running engine, to as compared to what it will take to repair that engine?? I would assume you will need a used crankshaft, a balance shaft, a full set of gasket kit, connecting rod, and full set of bearings, check the head & valves on that cylinder to see if the piston has hit the head and valves, possibly a piston if it is damaged, from what you have shown? Hopefully the block isn't cracked up into the water jacket? Then you can repair that hole. Usually throwing a rod causes more stress on the engine block than can be seen.

Looks like fun times. ❤

Balancing shafts?

This looks like a true tractor rescue.

Thanks Tom, enjoyed the video and hope you have good luck on the rebuild and getting the parts you need, are you going thru John Deere or after market? thanks Tom

Hello, nice job on your mill and set up….lots of work paid off for sure…….thanx

Wondered how long the neighbor would sit on that tractor in the cold waiting for the wrench to turn. 😁😁

Busy Busy Man

Did you fill the differential through the hole on the side of the differential housing, through the hydraulics fill hole, or through the transmission fill hole? Thank you. I am ready to do this to my Jubilee but only have enough fluid to fill the differential housing and not the trans and hydraulics.

HELP. Lots of people sell that PTO shaft assembly. About half the TH-cam videos for replacing the shaft assembly in The "N" Series Tractors and the Jubilee/NAA Series show problems with fitment. Either the collar is to large and will not go all the way into the differential housing or the bolt holes in the new assembly are just slightly off and either need to be enlarged, filed, or the bolts go a little in first and then draw the miss alined new PTO bearing housing assembly up flush to the differential. Where did you purchase yours as it seems to fit perfectly? Thank you!

very much tom great job.

your leblond lathe is quite a bit newer than mine mine is a 1905 top drive flat belt drive 15 inchx 5 ft bed. i am still trying to ger mine operational.

my mill is a cobled together bellsaw mll that i am trying to resurect.

very good job of explaing your mill tom

Just mount the motor further down. you can cut the bottom out of the old belt gard. I did one on a bigger Lablond had a 15hp now use single phase 5Hp. just can;t cut 3/4 wide chips any moor. Works great. would have gone bigger if i had moor Amps.

Looks like you need to chamfer the end of that ramp so it settles down flat. ❤❤Nice video explaining how she works, Tom. Keep your area under foot swept clean to prevent accidents.

Good explanation! Are you going to box in the shed you have over the crawler you are powering the mill with. Would it be warmer if you did

nice job Tom...

So in one direction it tightens the belt on the bottom of a drum and in the other direction tightens on the top of a drum - thus reversing, since the tops are running opposite of the the bottoms with the fixed PTO shaft rotation. That makes sense now. And the taper now makes sense. You just center the pith to the distance of from the knee, whereas we do the distance to the bunk on our bandsaw mill. It’s pretty incredible how these old systems worked with just pulleys, cables, and slipping belts. Thank you Tom.

From what I've seen online, you need a rotary phase convertor with a pony motor that will turn an idler motor up to speed, then throw a 2 pole single phase breaker to feed the idler motor that creates the 3 phase power. That then feeds the lathe or other 3 phase equipment in the shop. Does that make sense? Lots of YT examples of there...