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If you got a few minutes, graft your royal crimson growth onto one of your other two cherries before giving it the ax. They really are quite tasty!

Royal Crimson is very strange! I have a great local nursery and the minie royals and royal lees were all doing great there. But, the Roal Crimsons were hidden way in the back...because they were all dying. It was twilight zone freaky. After carefully inspecting every tree, I chose the only decent one they had. The tree insists on growing straight up while resiting branching out. I lopped off the top twice now, with one year rest in between. After 3 years, I managed to coax out 3 decent branches, but any other tree at this point would be 3 times as big, so very slow growth on the Crimson. It also is very finicky with water. It tends to yellow after being watered, no matter how generous or restrictive I've been. Vitamin B-1 solution helps with this, but its still a very strange occurrence. In its defense though, I have had two tiny and delicious cherry crops (3 and 5 cherries, respectively), but I am considering removing all flowers next time to trade for more growth because at this rate, it will take 10 years to get even a minimally decent crop. The amount of attention this tree has taken is really mind blowing. And, for being marketed at suitable for S. Cali, it doesn't seem to like heat at all. Wilts every time it gets over 80, which is like always down here. This guy is just too dramatic.

Great method. I want to try it

So, what were the results of that pomegranate taste test?

Are the seeds “medium hard” like Wonderful’s? Harder? Not quite so hard? I have an Eversweet graft, along with Desertnyi and Medavyi Vasha, but none have fruited yet. Maybe in 2025. Anyway, the main reason I grafted Eversweet is that it is supposed to be sweet even if picked before it’s fully ripe. So I figure I can start picking that one early, and extend my season! But of course if it’s too bland or unpleasantly hard-seeded, I might not keep it either.

It’s been a year. Updates?

It’s next year! Any update?

Needs bone meal

Great move! Taking advantage of those strong roots was the best choice you could have made; now, you can add many great varieties and get back to strong production.

Make it wooden with woodprix.

Great!

Thanks brother, solid and helpful video. Excited to give the Li a go here in Dallas.

And 1 year later I'm watching for buying trees lang is a no go.

Hi. One more thing, I did a video review of the AU Cherry on my channel.

Hi. Enjoyed your video. I live in SE Georgia (Zone 9a / 500 chilling hours) and have a Sprite cherry plum but not a delight. My tree gets pollinized without the delight, although productivity isn't great because I don't get enough chilling hours for it to bloom properly. (It blooms in spits and spats for a long time but doesn't make a the big flower display plums need to attract enough pollenating insects.) My sense is that any P. salicina or P. carasifera with good pollen will pollenize it. Chickasaw plums don't seem to pollenize it, although it seems to pollinize a late blooming chickasaw cultivar called Ms. Bessie. (It's either Sprite or AU Cherry that's doing the deed.) The primary polinizers for it here are AU Cherry which is another Asian X Cherry Plum hybrid and Methley which is ultimately a Asian X cherry plum hybrid itself even though most people think of it as a standard Asian plum. I really like Sprite once it is soft ripe. But it sits purple on the tree for a long time before it's ripe enough for me to like it. And most of the fruit end up being badly pecked by birds before it gets there. AU Cherry is actually a much sweeter plum than either Sprite or Delight. My only complaint about it is that the fruit really is cherry size. That's probably the chickasaw plum (P. angustifolia) genes in it causing the small size. It has more "cherry" notes in the flavor profile than any other plum I have. Chickasaw plum was bred into AU Cherry to give more disease resistance for a humid Deep South climate. Anyway, if you have other Asian plums, even ornamental cherry plums on your property which bloom with your Delight they should polinize it. AU Cherry is supposed to be self-fertile. I have no way to verify that in my orchard and would not trust it given that such claims have been shown false about so many other plum varieties. Oh, I almost forgot. I have a commercially unavailable cherry plum X chickasaw cultivar hybrid called Drag Queen. The strain is a purple leaf seedling of a Guthrie Chickasaw Plum (P. angustifolia cultivar) which was apparently pollenized by an ornamental cherry plum. Probably less than a dozen people have it. My tree is young, and it has not had an explosive bloom here yet. The jury is out on whether I get enough chilling hours for it. My tree has enough newly formed flower buds on it this fall for us to find out this spring. I did get to eat a plum from it this season. The fruit is ping pong ball size, similar to both Gurthrie and Sprite, but texture is soft like Guthrie. While the flavor wasn't peachy like Guthrie, it was more chickasaw like than cherry plum like. Oh, by the way, my parents had a Delight Cherry Plum back when I was growing up 40 years ago, same county in Georgia. Sprite is actually a much better tasting plum than Delight in my view.

Is it sweet?

Wow, that's a long time to wait

Beautiful

Very interesting! They say parfianka variety is like what you are looking for

Congratulations how wonderful

It is amazing, that you grow 140 varieties of fruits. It would be so interesting to see at least once in a couple of months what is growing, ripening in your orchard.

The flower is a yummy vegetable

That last one does not look like GA-866 unless owner did not feed enough water. It is supposed to be huge long oblong .

Great orchard!

Very interesting, thanks. Do you have any plans on videos discussing your planting process, irrigation, pests (gophers?) etc? I'm also in SoCal, but a colder climate and your orchard looks wonderful!

If your plants succeed I think $5 is not that bad….I like air layering because you get fruit the next year ….in order to air layer you have to have access to the mother tree and that could a problem…

i would appreciate a branch of the sugar dragon.

You should keep your Lang for pollination purposes. The standard advice is that Li and Lang need each other for pollination. I've had a Lang for six seasons now and have never gotten fruit from it because I have not had a Li. So a couple weeks ago I finally got a Li and I'll see next year if I'll get fruit from the Lang.

I have Lang, Honey jar and Tigertooth. I enjoy all of them. I use Lang for my winter soup and 🧋!

How did it turn out?? I'm searching for them also

I am looking forward to see the next comparison of GA866 and a new one ?

Is sheneski self fruit?

How far apart did you plant all 3 of them from each other?

Happy to hear the fruit is coming down, but bigger grid holes are better, not all fruit will drop...it does look very nice.

It's pronounced Joo-joob. Otherwise a helpful video, thanks. 👍

I'm faced with the same dilemma, however you've made a decision. I have a "dwarf Bing cherry" tree. Got it as bare root a few years ago, was concerned about chill hours (still am) and it's grown very little. Got incredibly burnt during the recent heat-up (also zone 10b socal), and I seriously considered giving it the axe... you may have just convinced me. 😭 thanks for sharing

Avocado wood cured and burned smells fantastic!

My personal favorite way to decide on an indecision of binary choices is though a coin toss. Make a serious intention and voice out the options between head and tail. Flip the coin and let it land. Observe the outcome. If the result is a satisfactory one, then proceed with it; otherwise, do the opposite. Often time, we've already made a decision in our indecision. We just lack the courage to follow it though. Good Luck. 🤭

Whats that red leafed deciduous Tree in intro?

cut the loss and start new, don't keep.

I would dig out and replace it because the damage to the main trunk and scaffolds waa extensive. It would have a hard time recovering. The damage to the tree was pre-existing before the heatwaves. The tree would not be as productive because of the pre-existing issues and the low productivity is enough reason for me to replace the tree with a more vigorous one. Treat the soil with organically approved fungicide before planting a new one.

I had some of my full sun tree gets hit hard. I would heavily prune the deadwood or just replace and use umbrellas or shade clothes next year because as you said the nutrient flow. We had a week of many days around 110!

You could stump the damaged tree and graft (top work) a new variety. I've done this with a few of my 40+ year old Fuerte trees here in Fallbrook. Took a 25 foot badly damaged tree, cut it to a 5 foot stump. I grafted Pinkerton and also allowed the original Fuerte to regrow. The decades old root system allows the tree to grow back quickly. 18 months later I have a 12 x 12 foot multi-grafted avocado tree with a healthy green leaf canopy. I expect it to flower and set fruit next Spring. Fuerte aren't known to be precocious, so it will take 2 years to grow back and produce. There are some varieties that can produce within a year of top working.

Perhaps top work the tree and graft another variety. The 10+ year old roots will have the grafts growing vigorously.

I'm iffy about cherry trees in socal. not enough production and there are far better options for us imo

❤🎉

Wish I could get one!

Nice video !! Ripening stage will, of course, slightly affect both brix level & flavor. FYI only; it's Florda without the " I" in the patent name...

Mine is growing but no flowers

Fantastic tips and clear explanation of how you grow dragon fruit! Subscribed! ❤we are in Orange County and wondering if you are considering building and shade protection for the plants 🌱 plants look healthy 🎉