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Thank You 😊

I have a similarly sized SolarEdge system with optimisers and have had no problems. Your optimiser failure rate is remarkable! I only have a 10kWh battery and I have a 4.5kW export limit. In the winter I use Cosy for my A2A heat pumps (I still have gas central heating system but the A2As work out cheaper). During the spring, summer and autumn I use Flux but I have to manually tweak how I use / export the solar depending on the weather of the day (because of my low expert limit). I have just purchased an EV so I will have to work out what will be the best strategy for 2025. I think Flux in the summer and Go or Cosy in the winter. By way of comparison my 31x420W panels (17SE, 2SW and 12NW) generated 10.2 MWh in 2024.

Good video. What is an acceptable heat gradient permitted between the high and low temperatures when measuring ceilings?

So you bought no gas or electric for the whole year from the grid . you exported £1114 just wanting to clarify because on top of off-grid for a whole year and making money on top you did well.

5/10 Years ago when panels were more expensive than nowadays, everybody hyped Optimizers and Microinverters. Look at Dave jones from EEVBlog promoting Enphase Microinverters. I tried to tell everybody it wasnt a wise move to have complex active devices prone to failure on the roof if they want to run the system 20+ years. Even if there are warranties on the devices, somebody has to set up scaffolding, disassemble the panels and replace the optimizers. On the other hand, even having some panels partially shadowed, a normal string inverter with only one MPPT for each used roof side will get 95+ % of the energy you get with the Optimizers. One Failed optimizer will cut more off your earnings than just using a cheaper, simpler string inverter. Just no point in using Optimizers at all, now and in the future!

Thank you for sharing the video explaining your set up

I ment mainly for monitoring your power usage, you are currently deducting start from finish kWh by reading from your main powermeter. With Homewizzard and smart WiFi kWh meter you can measure over a certain time span or realtime and directly see the temps along with the powerusage so it gives mucht more detailed info at any given moment. Just sharing something that helped me a lot while doing the same measurements as you

You should get a Homewizzard system so you can measure actually everything real time and also see the temps

Always take a lawyer with you.

Should have looked at the Honeywell Evohome. Wireless thermostats in the room. Wireless underfloor heating controller to the manifold. Needs a mains feed and wires to the actuator. Main controller is wireless. Has an app.

No Energybill for 12 years now.

Temperature is up to 60 degrees, 22 degrees in the House Everywhere warm. Normal radiators. 20 kWh a Day. LG Therma V Monoblock 60 degrees is Super Heatpump. No worries.👍👍👍

I let a House with the same System. Family 2 Kids. Rooftop Solar Inductioncooking and HTHP. All with HT radiators and HTHP LG Therma V Monoblock 9 KW 60 degrees. Simple Easy Cheap. Can be done everywhere. 👍🌹🌹🌹

I have Rooftop Solar Inductioncooking Heatpump for 12 years now and 12 years no Energybill. HTHP LG Therma V Monoblock 9 KW 60 degrees. Cost 3599. Subsidie 3075. Superhot 22 degrees in the House. Supersilent. Kitchen Boiler Bathroom Boiler. Inductioncooking Rooftop Solar. ANWB Energie Dynamic. Today Zero Cent per kWh and 2 cent kWh. Normal HT radiators heated with HTHP. Super Zero Energybill for 12 years Now. 👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹🙂🙂🙂 In Groningen Nederland.

Finally someone who has done a video on what matters which is how much it costs to run rather than shouting out my cop is better than yours. As usual there is no set way thats best it all depends on your ha its and the house. We are at home most of every day and as our house is 220 years old it is best for our comfort to leave it on low all day and night as the thermal mass takes a ling time to warm as the walls are solid stone and over half a metre thick If your not at home all day and have a well insulated home qith insulation internally so no thermal mass to heat up then putting it on an hour before you want it and off hour before you dont will be far cheaper. We were on oil and we are around 20% cheaper a year with the heat pump and as we had it fitted when the RHI was a quaryerly payment from the government, we are going to be about 4k better off after the 7 year epriod so very happy with our decision.

I currently have a condensing gas boiler controlled by a Nest thermostat using opentherm which manages the flow temperature for me. I expect to be getting a heat pump replacement for the boiler next year. (I'm waiting for planning permission right now.) I've bought some Govee thermometers to record temperature vs time for three rooms inside the house and I'm just looking at getting something to monitor and store the outside temperature too. I believe I will have to construct a mathematical model of the heat flow and play with scenarios to optimise for cost. There's a big difference between optimising for cost and optimising for highest SCOP efficiency, especially with variable tariffs being considered, and it will be an interesting problem to solve! I currently believe that the way forward will involve some form of overheating the house during the cheap rate periods and underheating or turning off the heat pump during the expensive periods. (I'm also on Cosy Octopus.)

I am also surprised as all the advice around HPs is to let the controller do its thing and run it low and slow - but that’s on the basis that the HP can exactly match the heat loss which will vary based on outdoor temps and design temps are at below zero so the HP will rarely be replacing heat as quickly as its lost - in a 24/7 scenario it will also cycle so running it intermittently shouldn’t pose a problem unless the heat loss is so great between running periods that the HP can’t reintroduce that heat during the heating period - interesting test anyway 👍

It might be over complex to do manually - but it seems the lowest running cost choice between weather curve vs fixed flow might change depending on outside temps and tariffs in addition to house insulation. Seems like something an ai ‘machine learning’ controller should be able to handle if it was given overall control, rather than a human. Surprised Tesla didn’t get into heatpumps - given how data rich the operation of a heat pump could be.

Very interesting. Good test.

Yeah, binned our heat pump after they quoted us £3500 for repairs after a tree fell on it. Running an oil boiler now with a waste oil conversion, costs me £145 a year to run 24/7. Couldn't be happier about that tree now! 😆

Have you looked at just running everything through the Octopus Go tarrif only ?

Do you need a second powerwall instead? Peak.inverter output increased to 10KW and then induction hob won't push you over the limit and grid import at peak times?

You've succeeded in proving you've got a new build, efficient house but I think you knew the before you did this

I came to same conclusion to run the HP in cosy low rate times only and not 24/7 as it uses far more electricity on 24/7 settings. My house is a 1995 buid with 3 beds. One issue i have found with the HP system (you may wish to check this yourself) is that on hotwater heating startup the system pulls down the hot water tank temperature by some margin. i am still working with Octopus/Daikin to find out if i have a system problem, but I have seen other peoples temperature curves for hot water tank temperatures and several do the same.

Hi, interesting video, thanks. You obviously have a new well insulated UFH house which means not applicable to all folk, however you failed to say at what outside temp you ran the tests? You did mention de-icing so suspect low single figures?

Interesting, thanks. I plan to try this and will use a flow temp a few degrees above the 'weather comp' temp (currently some 30C for 5C outside temp). Will be high enough to heat the house but low enough to deliver good CoP.

Yes. This helped. Thank you. Went in perfectly and tucked away for the next time I need it (moved to an apartment that already had fiber optic installed).

Interesting, it seemed to me there was quite a difference on carpet to tile , what will be your stat set up ? Per room or per floor etc ? I’m experimenting in a similar situation at point of build with running on constant with a flow temperature of 25 off two pumps 11kw each , ground floor slab with tiles on top , 2nd and third floor use 15 k3 rads which at t50 would output just over 40,000 watts total . At that flow rate the rads are just luke warm slab is similar but the house is baking , like you a lot of insulation gone in and triple glaze but in Aluminium so not so good on the frames thermally . Overnight with literally nothing else on at all , the draw on the pumps is averaging about 1.4kw per hour , there are currently no stats at all .

Thanks! Great explanations!!

You killed it thx.

Currys tried to sell me one last week but neglected to tell me the South East was at capacity and it wouldn't work. The sales guy seemed surprised when I showed him the map. It stayed in the shop.

4 degrees difference screed to carpet is massive if the room is at 20 deg. You need air movement and changes or you have sick building syndrome.

Would be interesting what the difference would then be on click together laminate style flooring, would have expected more "loss" due to the carpet's tog/insulation the pipes vs the tiles as thats issue we have atm working out a suitable carpet to go over the top of our UFH

Great work. Thank you for sharing.

Cracking vlog, always wondered how different systems / coverings interacted. Out of interest with all that insulation why don’t you just run 24x7 at 35 degs on the outlet on the ASHP?, as its usual for underfloor to be restricted to 35 degs in all cases?

Thank you!!!

Would you not have been better doing this a build stage? Also it looks like there is some sludge in your radiator

Brilliant video great Job 👏👏

Brilliant thank you. I am so releived to be rid of the Darklord. Will share this with OH so he can start packing. I won't swear but 🤬🤬🤬Musk

Well done, great job and a beautiful house. Are they the howdens dordogne doors? I went for the same

I was thinking of only putting panels on the north facing side (in Australia) but I could double the system size if I put panels on the south side. Might not make much power in winter on the south side but would make a big difference in summer when the wholesale power price is high in the afternoons.

I found the most challanging part is the cable. anyway love your work. really helps out

Any way to stow away the antenna arm without power? I’m sending it back through warranty because it will no longer receive power and now I can’t fit it in the box…

Thx a million !

There’s also a “stow” setting on the starlink app that adjusts the satellite ready for packing 👍

A very helpful video thank you amigo, i got some useful tips out of it. As per below i do have 'proper' wireless thermostats from Wunda, they work with just two AAA batteries and talk back to the main controller. It just seems strange they sold you something claiming to be wireless that wasn't. Thanks for posting the video.

Polish work remember how they bragged how cheap they ere and I see this a lot all the Bridget joneses who were desperate for c ock and cheap work on their crumbling buy to let’s

Thank you 😊

Great video, loads of interesting information. 07:54 although using wires for connecting the thermostats to the UFH control box is highly recommended it is still possible to do it without running the wires. There are solutions available using RF, Wi-Fi or ZigBee along with designated UFH control box. I'm currently testing EONE thermostat from ENGO Controls and it working well. The actuators are in fact hard wired as they need 230v or 24v in order to operate. Looking forward to new videos.

I was legit about to just break it so I can get it in the box. Since I'm sending it back anyway lol.