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Hi and thank you for commenting. What exactly do you mean by needing one? Are you referring to the chain tensioner?

@@FirstTimersCycling yes

Hello and thank you for commenting! I would first try and find the correct cable or conversion cable. If you can't get that first, I don't think you'll be able to connect to your ebike controller.

Nice, wish we could use a lower chainring. I believe your bike has thru axles and not a quick release hub right? Because ours, with QR's I don't think it allows us to use anything lower than 42T chainrings up front due to chain line. The bafang can handle it just fine but it just would have been nice to use a 36 or 40T front. Anyway, thanks for commenting!

Hi there and thank you for your question! To be honest, when we set Alvin's bike to 25A, it seemed like battery life was longer but there were too many variables involved. His front tire is too wide so it drags on the fork, his rim brakes at the time were dragging, and multiple times he had to tow one of our friends when he was gassed out. So this all led to battery depleting faster. Up until today, his bike now has disc brakes but he's still been dealing with the front tire drag. He did buy different tires though so this should help a ton. Stay tuned! 😊

Hi Guys, I've just converted a, Trek Farley 5, 2016 model. Using the 48v bafang bbshd + a 48v 20ah battery,, the bike is a beast to look at, I've still got a few bits to do yet but can not wait to get out on it, ps I will be watching you're videos to see what you're doing, Thanks again Alan

@@alanread8468 Nice! What chainring are you using in the front? The standard 46T? Just looked up your bike, with the fat tire and bbshd setup that would look BEAST! Somebody commented before and had a similar bike, but put a mid-drive and front hub drive on his bike lol. Can't imagine how crazy that would look.

It feels good to be back! Thanks for sticking with us and commenting!

Hey Ron! Yup lol good ol Alvin with that conspiracy hat on. 🤣. Thanks for watching and commenting! 🤙🤙

Not just Aliens, but ancient aliens :) lol

Hi there and thanks for commenting! We love this trail as well, it's close and short enough to be fun and not tiring! Be safe as well!

We haven't looked for the 48v setup. Alvin's bike is the 52v and he wanted to tune it. The 48v is running the stock firmware as of right now.

i have a 48v battery do you know what settings i need in the programe or re they the same

@@FirstTimersCycling oh ok thanks if you do work that out please let me know greetings from the Netherlands

I'm afraid we don't know for sure as we are not experts for the Bafang motors. You might want to reach out to Golden Motor -> goldenmotor.bike/ to see if they can help you.

@@ManMan-b5y5c We will make a video if or when that takes place! Thanks for stopping by!

Yes, it is! Lol. The bike will perform fine on the flats, it's only when climbing that's a challenge. Thanks for commenting!

I believe a chain tensioner is required if you have vertical drop outs or a thru axle.

Lol, I guess so, but always willing to learn. Please enlighten me on what we need to do better. Also, keep in mind we try to do things and show the struggles any nonexperienced person would face so we can all learn as a community. So please, instead of bashing, tell us what we are doing wrong? All in all, thanks for commenting!

Hey Ron! We rode last weekend, and I'll be editing that one. Trying a different approach and don't think we'll be deploying as frequently as we did before, but we are continuing with the rides! This one is from an old video, something we are trying with TH-cam Shorts but it appears this one didn't come out as a short lol. Still ironing out the kinks. 🤣 Thanks for dropping in!

Hey happy to help and thanks for commenting!

Thank you @s well. Brakes work great!

Oh that's interesting, thanks for the insight! I would imagine it to also depend on gearing sizes as well?

Hey thanks for that info!! Single speeding doesn't really make sense for most people to begin with 🤣. I'm light weight so the 48v is fine but I hear ya.

@@FirstTimersCycling I agree. Single speed should be done if you’re pushing 72v. I tried doing 72v on a sram gx cassette and it ware way too fast. I like to pedal here and there but switching gears causes a lot of ware on the drivetrain, even with a shift sensor. Best to go one speed, that way the chain is not hopping off or banging on the teeth’s.

@@johnnylong2049 Yup! That's actually the reason I went SS. Even with the 48v, my derailleur ripped off while shifting lol. We were in the middle of the trail too so I mostly had to walk the rest back or get pulled by my buddy on his 52v ebike

Hello, I'm afraid we only worked with the 52v firmware on Alvin's Bafang setup. Mine is the 48v and have not yet updated the firmware. I don't plan on modifying it either. Sorry!

Hey there, in the description field of this video there is another link to the firmware update provided by Golden Motors. If the updated one is throwing that 30H error, try reverting back to what works. The one from Golden Motors should work, it just didn't allow tweaking of the settings via Speeed app from the phone. You can also try this link to try another firmware update support.biktrix.com/kb/guide/en/52v-programming-for-bbs02-motor-K2gUq2nWAX/Steps/1132765

@@FirstTimersCycling hi thanks for the reply thing is it will not connect to the program because of the 30H it will not connect to the software so I can not revert back to anything. I think I have a brick,oh and have tried a new display still 30H also re did all the connections changed the wire harness. Thing is though pedal assist still works though I get no battery voltage and no speed indicating.any ideas.also I'm on a 48v battery 21Ah by the way my controller is a Bafang LD-BG-AK007 22A 48V

@@ManMan-b5y5c Aw damn. That sucks. The videos we posted was for a 52v setup not a 48v. Alvin's ebike is a 52v battery but we read that the motor uses a 48v firmware so we had to upgrade it from 48 -> 52. This may be why yours is showing 30H as the firmware you installed is for a 52v. Might want to try reaching out to Goldenmotors to see if they have a base 48v firmware you can upload. That should bring things back to default hopefully. I hope that helps.

@@ManMan-b5y5c We're not professionals but there should be a way to revert or upload a different firmware

@@FirstTimersCycling i havent installed any firmware on this controller im just trying to install a firmware so the error might go away ,but it will not connect to the programe to install and like i said earlier my controller is LD-BG-AK007 bafang controller not a mid drive.

From what I researched online, they appear to be the same shape and form. So I would think the B05S should work just fine

Are you referring to the Speeed app or the updated firmware that gets loaded from a laptop PC to the motor?

So does that mean every time I remove the rear wheel, the tensioner has to come off as well?

Lol wow!! I wonder how heavy that bike is!

@@FirstTimersCyclingI found out my krusader has a 22 rear cog and chainring is a 36 narrow wide. For climbing should I keep this setup or install larger rear cog?

@@aeestep77 I think that setup should be fine. That way you don't sacrifice too much on top speed. On my bafang, it had a 46T chainring and the 22 rear and that made it up the hills just fine. Made the motor work a little but it handled it. Plus the 22 rear cog I believe is the biggest you can go without some sort of an adapter to mount front chainrings on the rear like the one I have now from Pinion. I now have a 28T chainring for the rear

@@FirstTimersCycling that’s mainly what I’d use the mid drive for is to get little boost up steep hills. Use the hubs for normal riding. It’s a hunting bike anyway.

@@FirstTimersCycling not exactly sure of the weight. Looks like a smaller tire bike. Type in triple motor ebike. I think citizen cycle is the ch

Not sure, if I were to guess, probably a 4 or 5 hex

@@FirstTimersCycling thanks. Maybe 0.4 or 0.5mm

Are you referring to the brake cable? @5:28 you can see Alvin showing and explaining how to remove the cable from it's mounting point. If you are referring to the hoods, we just cut them off. Hope that helps!

@@FirstTimersCycling I also would like to know how you get the brake cable out.

@@jeroenjonkmans2129 If you watch around @5:28 we show it.

Tuning the Bafang did wonders for Alvin. He loves it!

True. I've since switched to a 34T rear cog and use it primarily for climbs. Really wished that I could change the front cog to a much smaller chainring but due to the chain line and frame, I'm unable to, so changing the rear cog is all I can do. It works for me as I normally don't need too much assist. But I hear you on it not being wise to do, I can agree if the rear cog was anything lower than 34 for hill climbs. I rarely ever need to go to PA3 or higher on any hills with the BBSHD

I’ve looked and found that on my krusader. Couple wires come out the bottom bracket. So I’m wondering if I mount a bbshd if the motor would pinch those wires. If the motor rests against the frame down there

@@aeestep77 The BBSHD should come with BB spacers. Might need to play with those in the kit

Thank you for commenting and glad this video helped you save $120! Now you can use that money towards more bike parts! 😂 Just kidding, glad it helped, have a great day as well!

Hello and thanks for commenting! Totally understand your point but do take note that a quick release is a lot easier than a thru axle release. Or at least for me. A QR you can still mount the rim on the bike even if the wheel isn't straight. With the thur-axle there is no such wiggle room so the ChainLift product did help me. I no longer have this bike as I mainly mountain bike on a SS setup right now so to answer your question, I don't use it but do still have it.

I can't say for sure, you would have to reach out to Chainlift customer support.

🤣 I have since learned the proper way to use a chain whip. But hey, this is a channel where we do things for the first time lol but thanks for commenting!

@FirstTimersCycling I figured you knew now lol just had to say something signed nick

Hi there and thank you for commenting! To our understanding, the firmware is on the HD motor itself, not the controller. The stock is fine for most, including myself, but Alvin wanted to be able to go faster and up the output. I believe if you reach out to Golden Motors, they should be able to help you with firmware that will work for your setup. We are by no means experts on the subject either, so I'd rather not give you misinformation. What we did was at our own risk and on the systems we purchased just for learning as we enjoy tinkering. Not sure how any other controllers would perform with the firmware update.

I partially agree with what you are saying but there are times when you have a stuck piston and you need to hold the one that is moving down to force the fluid to the side that is sticking to free it. Dirt and crud can get caked on the piston, if not cleaned off regularly, it'll seize a piston. And yes, a piston can pop out and you lose hydraulic pressure, but you would have to be pumping it more than a few times to get the piston out far enough.

If I'm not mistaken, the Surley is a spring tensioned design. The DMR is a set and lock design. If you have full suspension, the DMR isn't advisable. I like my DMR but I've since moved to a 28T rear cog using an adapter. Unlike you, my derailleur got ripped from the power of the Bafang so that's why I went SS lol.

With the clutch lock mechanism of the rear derailleur, you wouldn't need this Chainlift device I'm assuming.

I'm sure rider weight affects range as well. Alvin's 52V 1000W Bafang was able to reach 40+mph on his heaviest gear on flat ground. It can probably go faster if you tune the motor as when he hit that speed it was with stock settings. I believe mid-drive systems are the fastest. I have broken chains, a rear derailleur and that has led me to go SS bafang setup. I have mine geared for climbs as l love the downhill portion of trails. You do miss out on top speed though. Depends on your preference and build but this has worked for me. The Bafang 1000W is a beast.

www.youtube.com/@FirstTimersChannel

Nice! Keep it up and ride safe!

Sorry to hear! Are they like fused in? Maybe from heat and caked on grime?

Hey thanks for commenting. The episode was just to challenge myself in seeing if it was possible. We reference an anime where the main character is riding on this style bike and uses leg strength/power to climb instead of switching gears. Just wanted to see if I could do it is all. :-)

Agreed! Great way to get into cycling if you're trying it out.

Not too sure about that as we only have experience using the C961 display. Sorry!

I could see a rear with 2-3 sprockets but I don't see how it can work for the front? Please enlighten me. :-)

Yes it can be ridden with the motor turned off. You won't feel resistance per say but you do feel the weight of the bike. Raphael, the owner of this ebike likes to ride with the motor off until he needs it for climbing hills.

You're welcome! So, to my understanding, both pistons should move freely to close on the brake rotor evenly. If only one moves, you'll notice the rotor bends to one side and that's not good. If you hold in the piston that is freely moving, the fluid should push the stuck piston out. If it doesn't, you may have a seized piston.

Thanks for the update and response. I did remove the caliper and appears to have one seized up (in the caliper). I didnot remove the front caliper to compare pistons but with new brakes installed on the rear - it is still not feeling like it should. I will have to ride the bike and apply the brakes under forces to see if I see the rotor bends. It didnot bend on the stand when I looked at it. Meanwhile its working but not getting that hard lockup braking power (I have a replacement caliper in the mail but wont be here till late next week). I will let you know what I find. I do believe on my other bike with a mechanical caliper it only has one piston that moves and the other side of that caliper appears to be adjustable to move in or out. Gonna have to dig into that project also. Again thanks for the video info. Never tackled a caliper this far but I will take it all apart now when I put the new one in.@@FirstTimersCycling

@@arthurleal2674 If there is no bite in the feel, there might be air in the hydraulic line. It'll feel spongy, like you're pressing on the lever hard but there is no hard stop feel (springy). Good luck with your find and on this project! If you've never bled a brake line before whether it be on a motorcycle or a car, I'd take this task to a local bike shop you trust so you don't end up wasting brake fluid.

I have bled from the caliper (just like you would bleed car brakes) but I think a stuck piston only give me 50% braking power. I will see when I put the new caliper in and so far I have not seen any leaks outside the line. Actually I rode the bike today and forgot to look and check if the rotor would bend on braking. Did a quick 5 miles ride. I will be at it tomorow again. I will keep you posted. (just glad I decided to buy the large sized fluid instead of one little bottle). Maybe that handle/reservior could also be letting air into the system. This bike is like a 2016 model so seals could be wearing out too. @@FirstTimersCycling

@@arthurleal2674Yup, sounds like you are mechanically savvy to get to the bottom of this! You wouldn't have to be riding to see the rotor bending. You can be at a stand still, pull the lever and see if the rotor bends to one side. The symptoms you are describing definitely sounds like air in the system or of a seized piston. You're right, it is a possibility that air might be in the system but like I said before, you should feel sponginess at the lever.