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No need for an isolator to the Multiplus. It has a power switch on the unit itself and you can also turn it on/off using the Cerbo screen. Most people leave the main power switch on and use the Cerbo to control it. The Blue Sea switch is only used as a battery isolator 👍

Thanks!

Unfortunately not… the whole layout is different so would basically mean replacing everything except the cell pack 😢

The active balancer is part of the Roamer BMS so is not available separately, sorry. There’s lots of good balancers out there however

The 12mm bolts are usually long enough for two big lugs but if not, no problem swapping for 16mm M10 bolts. Any stainless steel hex bolts will work, choose A2 steel for campervan use or A4 steel for marine. And you’ll want M10 washer and spring rings too. I wouldn’t use post extenders, that just adds unnecessary resistance.

Thanks Rio!

Thank you is much, that means a lot.

There’s a few reasons for the copper busbar… one, it’s solid copper rather than the standard aluminium braid cable so less resistance and lower losses. It’s correctly rated for the max load by the way, calculated using UK regs. The flat surface also creates a better connection with the BMS and battery terminals… again less resistance, less voltage drop and reduced chance of a hot spot. You do NOT want that on your cell terminals! Finally, it’s a solid piece of copper from one end to the other (as opposed to than a ring terminal crimped to a cable, then crimped again to another terminal at the other end). Less connections, lower resistance and fewer points of failure. Of course the downside is it costs substantially more than cable but it’s carrying a serious amount of current so it’s worth it 👍

@@roamerbatteriesthis is good to see I've always been slightly worried what was going on inside when I draw high currents

Really interesting video Steve - when I originally discovered Roamer it was the quality and the 250A BMS which drove my decision (oh and it fit in the space I has available perfectly). I believe I have the original (First series 460Ah) which had an amazing spec for the time and is serving me well to date, the magic you want with tech where it all just works for me. What’s the difference between the first, S2 and the S3? I’ve seen slightly different behaviour at times compared to mine when helping people so was interested. All the best, David 👍

⁠@@LeisureBitHi David, lots of little upgrades on the SMART3. The build quality shown in the video is what you get now… cell brackets, busbars etc are all new for SMART3. Cells are now traceable which gives consistency and confidence in quality. We updated firmware and short circuit protection to fix a couple of niggly BMS issues so that now works perfectly. We also added an independent Active Balancer which has eliminated problems with cell balance caused by using the battery incorrectly. Makes it much more forgiving of poor charge profiles - campervans will often have lead acid only chargers fitted and will be in storage for long periods. Active Balancing sorts this out, we never get issues now. Will also extend useful life by ensuring you always get max capacity from the cells. So its incremental improvements but added together mean batteries are very consistent and reliable. Returns have dropped to almost zero, everything now just works and we expect batteries to have a much longer useful life👌

@@carmadme I’ve seen a few hotspots at high amps due to cheap cables and poor terminal connections… you do NOT want that happening inside a lithium battery.

The LiFePO4 chemistry is the same. During charging, lithium ions from the cathode are embedded into compounds with layered structures in in the negative anode material. Conventional LiFePO4 batteries cannot be charged at low temperature because the ionic conductivity of the electrolyte is reduced which interferes with the intercalation of the ions in the anode material. This leads to lithium plating, a process where Lithium ions are reduced to metallic lithium instead of intercalating into the anode. The Roamer Xtreme cells use a special negative anode with large crystal plane spacing and a specially modulated -80℃ non-condensing electrolyte which is conducive to the process of lithium ion intercalation at low temperatures.

Hello Mwadi! Great to have you along :)