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21460 Koch Mountains

730 Tracey Rest

5115 Stewart Crest

So it is not an MGB it is a hybrid. Great believer in leaving things as they are built.

taking one to a shop would definitely be a Loss....Diy I usually only make about $10 an hour for my time. Is that worth it NO......Not anymore. 10 years ago minimum wage in CA USA was 10 an hour now its 16.....and the cost is up on every part because of that minimum wage increase and all the increase was suppose to help the poor.....It did NOTHING....made everything go up in price. Even what they are buying. the spending power of the dollar has gone down every year they raised those wages.

ML for Maple Leaf, nice video and glider

Any chance You have the part number from the bracket. My friend pick up a project MGB with the same setup minus the bracket.

FYI, You can power your electric choke from the alternator exciter circuit.

Do you have a video how you removed it

Very nice job.

I am in Alberta! Would you like to sell?

The Dennis Moore Garage swaps MGB engines into Dodge Vipers. Making cars “even your Gran finds drivable”. They started out swapping MGB engines into Miatas, but the cars were “a bit too demanding”.

Hi im Hakan in Sweden, just about at the same point in my repaire, its " a lot " but you will get there......... eventually! Keep it up.

Thanks for the Ride! You must be running the stock 3.909:1 rear axle with an 1980's T5 out of a V6 Camaro (those are 0.76:1 fifth gear) to be running 2,600 RPM. When the car eventually has a switch out to something like the 3.07:1 rear end gear ratio, you will be down to about 2,000 RPM, almost on the Nose from my calculations! As this is the V6T5, that means your first gear will become much more practical and the car even more enjoyable to drive. It will also feel slightly quicker as you can use the torque to stay in the powerband a bit longer. The original 2.8L produces 110 BHP and 140 lb-tq- If you're ever looking to go for the four barrel with the CNC top, I think I just might know where they supply them. ;-)

Only 200 REAL 1965 Matchless G15's with the Matchless twin engine were built. Bored out version of the 650 G9. And a flop! This is Norton Atlas 750 engine in a Matchless frame...they were just using up all the parts laying around by then ! Oh Dear Us old Matchbox aficionados look down our nose!!! hahahaha

So it was a 2.8 multi Port fuel injection. You should have swapped the computer over from a 87 to 89 firebird or Camaro. I had a 87 firebird 2.8mpfi i had hooker super competition long tube headers jet hot coated crane cam 1.52 roller rockers jacobs pro street ignition with ultra coil. Underdrive pulleys, accel 17lb injectors, holley annihilator ignition module accel 8.8 race wires. Bored 30 over anyways i got it moving much faster than stock it ran 14.988 in the 1/4 mile. I had a 700r4 with B&M shift kit and it chirped the tires the 1st 2 shifts when you floored it. The upper rpm was much better..alot of it had to do with those hooker headers the engine could really breath had the car for 20 yrs

Do you fabricate all of your own parts? Engine mounts. Trans Cross Member. Etc.?

I Think it is a 63 But if it has a flat bar between the rear wheels bolted to the bottom ofd the transaxle it is a 64 The carhad a complete redux for 65

I pass.

A friend had a '65 Corvair Corsa. '65 to '69 had a different body style than did '60 to '64. He'd souped his up with dual carburetors, improve distributor, sway bars and wider tires. The improvements allowed him to be faster than other Corvairs and most Volkswagens. I remember him saying to never used fan belts rated as heavy duty. They were too stiff and would come off of the fan pulley too easily. Stick with the stock variety belts at all costs.

trace the vin number , that will confirm the year of manufacture . you bought a frankenstein . the color is definitely not original nor is the ill fitting radio . it appears to have been cobbled together from various years and aftermarket parts . from the condition of the frunk i'd say you've some serious rust in the unibody pan . once you start picking around i think you're going to find more rust and body damage under all that bondo . the only way to get it right is to strip the entire car , straighten the metal and replace all rusted panels with appropriate sheet metal [not roof flashing which was apparently used on the passenger quarter panel] . hopefully , the engine isn't shelled out ... there's a reason it isn't in the car . the flat tire is icing on the cake . i subscribed and looking forward to follow your progress . all the best

Ah, yes it's fun to drive but you should know a few things. The front tires should always be ten pounds less than the rear tires. Once the engine is in and running, you should always keep a sandbag in her nose, trust me. When you get the engine in, you will find one bolt that holds the engine in, and there is one cotter pin that keeps that bolt on. Driving around in the 70s, you knew when you saw a Corvair on the side of the road with her taillights up in the air, -someone had forgotten that damn cotter pin. One last bit of trivia, I knew one of the men who worked on the design of the Corvair and he said the "Cor" came from Corvette, and the "air" came from BelAir. Enjoy your car.

It's not a 65. If the title states that, you may have serious problems when registering it. Some states did allow the registration year to be the year first sold. A 64 first registered in 65 would be an example. Check the numbers with CORSA.

Nice! I remember seeing that one for sale before and the owner claimed it to be a 1963 for whatever that is worth. A very worthy project. Congrats.

Early Corvair. 1965 had a totally new body style.

Another job well done!!

The body is most definitely a 1964, based on the presence of hole in the front engine compartment wall for axle dipstick. Inside trim is mostly 1964, but you have a 1963 glove compartment door. Radio, seat upholstery , and door panel are not original Corvair for any year. The definitive tag is the stainless steel VIN tag located on the driver’s side door jamb. The tag you zoomed in on in the Engine compartment is the Fisher Body Tag and it is the Export version of the tag. Please provide clear photos of both to help us give better information. The engine number is stamped on the top of the crankcase, between the back of the top shroud and the oil filter adapter. 1964 engines would have been either 2 carburetor (95 or 110hp) or turbocharged (150 hp) - the 4 carburetor 140 ho engine did not become available until 1965

Thanks for your presentation... please improve the audio quality and I ll improve my spellin LOL

It is s 1963 not a 1965 Have had both cars

If it makes you feel better, there was a chunk of filler on mine nearly as big as the side door covering a massive dent. The body tag will help with the year ident. As others have indicated, appears to be an EM

It's an early model. Early models are 60-64. Late models are 65-69.

The front grille trim between the headlights is that of a '64, like mine.

It's not a '65, it has the early pre '65 body. Cool car!

Definitely not a 65.

very entertaining video with many good tips as I am going to renovate the front beam of my bus myself 😃 Thank you so much 😜👍🇸🇪

On the spindle calculation: 7 ft. lbs. is 84 in. lbs. and not 86 as you said. I know the difference is immaterial, but …I have OCD now, don’t I? Enjoying your videos of the restoration. You showed me today using much more grease than I ever used. That was a lesson for me. Thank you.

Excellent work. I love your videos!

For it to be a G15CS IT WOULD HAVE TO HAVE CS AFTER THE ENGINE NUMBER. Also it is fitted out like a G15 Mark II WITH THE VALANCED FRONT FENDER AND BIG TANK. BY NOW YOU LIKELY WOULD HAVE DISCOVERED THOSE DETAILS. LOVELY STRONG MACHINE. THANKS.

Also my bike has two L shaped round wire on the right side near the back for an air pump. Do y'all know the correct type of pump that should be on it?

The oil tank has a shield I believe. I have a question. I have a very similar motorcycle, 68 g15cs, matching numbers. My bike has a Bates headlight held on by a two piece bracket that bolts to the side of the headlight and the bracket curves down directly to the bottom triple tree. Is this a factory mount or should I replace them with a pair of known atlas headlight brackets?

I personally don't think they are worth restoring if you are trying to save money. You restore them because 1. you like a project and you enjoy the process. 2. You want to take something from death back to functional 3. you ended up with a bus that is yours and has damage and you don't want to sell it to try to buy another one.

Appears to be a corvair convertible

I'm about to try and tackle this same job on my 78 westy

Woah!!

Hi.. Rhea here..😊

slowly getting there brother

Awesome job thanks

lol… you answered my question in the video

That looks like a great book, where can I purchase one?

Regarding that blue bus