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Ctek MXS 7.0 is very different in design than MXS 5.0. You could always do a visual inspection of the capacitors inside if they are bulging of leaking and that would be a good indicator of the problem. Hope that helps.

No this is not an error code, it is the main pcb trying to start and power cycling…

@@varnasfix What error code is this? This was a blocked pump m.th-cam.com/video/soRTqZos-7Q/w-d-xo.html

@@varnasfix What is this? The lights are flashing the same m.th-cam.com/video/soRTqZos-7Q/w-d-xo.html

@@varnasfix For some annoying reason I can not post a link to this video 'Indesit IWB5113 washing machine flashing led error code fixed' What do you make of this? The lights look to be flashing the same.

@@Leo-gt1bx That is an an error code and relates more to this video: th-cam.com/video/BqP2V8BOYm0/w-d-xo.html From some forum with the same error they had a problem with the door lock connector....

Όχι, έχει όμως Ελληνικούς υπότιτλους. Πατάμε το κουμπι "CC" για να "ανοίξουν" οι υπότιτλοι και μετά πατάμε το "γραναζάκι" εκεί διαλέγουμε "English Autogenerated" μετά "Auto- Translate" και διαλέγουμε "Greek"

Thanks for the suggestions! But why the mating half? It sounds like it would suck more heat from the connector...

@ It does dissipate a little heat, but it keeps the pins aligned if the body gets too hot. I fully insert the wire and hold it with a fixture to keep it from moving. Also, you shouldn’t keep heating the solder after you stop adding solder. When the solder joint is done correctly, you should be able to pull the iron away right after you stop feeding solder to it.

@ Also, I use a thicker chisel tip on the iron because it won’t cool down as much as a tapered tip will.

@@TheRCAviator That is the biggest one for my old Weller soldering iron...

@@varnasfix The PTE7 might be the largest tip you can get for your old iron. A PTE8 might be too hot. I solder at 700° F using 60/40 or 63/37 solder.

Glad to hear that!

You're welcome!

Glad it helped!

Να είσαι καλά! Ευχαριστώ για το σχόλιο. Το eevlog είναι must! :)

So glad you found the video helpful! Thank you for your input about the switch. Its operation is still puzzling me :) Either way there must be a third function for the "Rinse" level which is also altered when adjusting this screw. Also there are 4 wires going to the pressure switch which could indicate 3 positions if one cable is common. I did take the pressure switch apart but did not film so I don't remember the insides... Unfortunately all wiring diagrams I have found are blurred and not clear...

@@varnasfix "4 wires" there are Normally open AND normally closed leads coming from the first position. one is for the water inlet the other one is for the water heater, ensuring the heater wont turn on if there is no water in the machine since that would cause a fire.

@@fortheregm1249 Yep you are absolutely right! Thanks for clearing that up! Just found the Metalflex HD505 datasheet and this pressure switch is listed as "Single Level" & "Water Heater Protection"... Nice info!

Glad it helped

That is some good diagnostic work there! So that is another way the drain can block...

@ yes it is, it was blocked with hair and fluff in the pipe, it’s fine now 👍

Welcome aboard!

There is definitely something else going on... The display is quite accurate but I always double check with a multimeter especially if I am going to charge batteries.

Thank you! And they still holding up quite well...

Thank you for your input! That tester has served me quite good for some years now including its predecessor with 16x2 LCD screen. Its capacitance accuracy may not be that good but on the other hand we don't need it that much with electrolytic capacitors as most of them are 20% tolerance rated. Now about those test clips don't get me started... That is my 4th pair I think, but it is ok for a quick measurement. In most cases if something tests a bit dodgy it gets removed from the pcb and tested again. The LCR meter you suggested looks actually very interesting. Never heard of it before, it has tons of features and very nice test leads. It can even measure flyback transformers which is quite a neat feature!

@@varnasfix I have it for more than five years. Bought it after I saw some people on youtube using it. Nowadays, I see many youtubers use it.

Totally agree :)

It is a N channel mosfet 20V 3.2A... You are welcome!

VIELEN vielen Dank für Thank you so much

Thank you for your comment! Resistance is about right, don't forget you are measuring resistance across the output capacitors.... Maybe the transistor or diodes have failed but are not shorted? It is worth to check...

​@@varnasfixThanks. You don't believe what was wrong... It is totally brand new piece... I opened the casing and... And this wire on this big choke was cut off by pielrs, not unsolder, just cut off. So then I solder piece of wire and it works like a charm... What was that? :)

@@mateuszmazur1482 Nice job there! That should be a nice feeling! Now quality control is always a thing with these products! Someone was cutting tie wraps and also cut the wire :)

@@varnasfix "It should be fine" ;) "That's what he said..." ;) Nice one joke ;)

You are welcome! Will give a second attempt at some point with an auto darkening helmet and a new socket to plug the welder as I suspect it could have been problematic...

You are welcome!

You're welcome!

Glad the video helped! Thank you for your comment. I really appreciate it!

Thank you!

You are welcome! Thank you for your comment!

It is a 16V 470μF capacitor... You can check it at 6:05

Yep "Conical" that is the one!

Why you going to open this port , showing de soldering opening skill or actually that port gone ?

Hello! Generally if the ecu is dead we start at checking the input to the ECU, meaning where the battery connects to the ECU.... But you won't learn that in the shorts feed....

The socket is good but it has to be removed in order to replace some ICs that are placed under the socket...

Hi ! I have DC meter 30V 5AMP can I check DC voltage on ECU

A list of the error codes can be found here: indesitservice.co.uk/washer-dryer-repair/error-codes and here: www.glotechrepairs.co.uk/news/indesit-error-codes/ It looks like it is "F12 - Electronic control fault"... Some lists indicate as a problem that is not filling water which may be a faulty water inlet valve... Definitely worth checking.

@@varnasfix thanks so much mate! I managed to unplug and clear the error and get it working again. But I have a feeling it's going to come back again

@@subby788 So glad you found a solution even if it is temporary! :) It is always worth to give a try!

It is a desoldering station model number ZD-915

Looks easy but needs some technique :)

Hello! The meter is from @eevblog model BM786 and is made by Brymen. It is a fast multimeter with many features.

It is kind of similar to an OBD port but bigger. OBD port has 16 pins and this ecu plug has 35 pins...

Thank you for your comment!

Always welcome

Wrong way? Which is the correct way then?

@@varnasfixTiming is too long and you must hold the electrodes 90 degree to the surface, not 45. As a result - we see what happens.

@@alexanders860 Thank you for the input and suggestion. Unfortunately the spot welder shorted out, it was not long timing... Check this th-cam.com/video/r2DlQYJQGt0/w-d-xo.html

Hello. Thank you for the comment. All the rods were 6013 and sizes 1.8mm 2.0mm and 2.5mm and started with 60 amps with the smallest 1.8mm rod. At the last part i raised to 90 amps with the 2.5mm rod and it felt better starting....

I would say it's perfect

Sorry don't get what 8+4 is...

Where there any objects in the filter or stuck in the pump? If not then you have a different problem

Thank you for your comment! Glad the video helped!